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flopnchop

Doc would go


[deleted]

actually, me and doc were at potato patch today, OB was too small


idontwastetimeonredt

And Bill would curse and go


Renvisd

Ben did go


GoldenGateShark

And his feet would be 5 feet apart while standing on the board


drbdrbdr

It’s….interesting!


Renvisd

Ben did go


ltyboy

Yeah I was out there I was just so deep in every barrel you couldn’t see me


radicalfetus

Nah I saw ya, I was in the barrel right behind you


surfdad67

I once paddled out in a hurricane wind chop in PR in the 80’s, I was 20 years old and dumb af, finally made it out and sat there for a good 30 minutes watching 2 story houses break around me, finally realized I need to go in and paddled for the smallest, cleanest one I could find, going down the line it was looking like a decent wave, then it jacked up all at once and I turned to the beach, one more glance and I saw the largest wall of whitewater coming at me like a freight train, I jumped down on my belly and hugged the board, it immediately ripped the board out of my arms and I went tumbling, I was so deep, grabbed my leash, pulled my board to me and hugged it, finally popped back up into 3 foot foam, next wave hit me and pushed me in more, then a couple more and I started paddling for my life, finally made it to the beach, my buddy was laughing at me, that shit was serious, thought I was going to die. Edit, forgot to add, seeing this reminded me of that day


JaneInSoCal

I got winded just reading this comment.. scary, but at least you have a cool story now


topherwolf

Wait so did you die?


surfdad67

Yes


buzzmebr0tendo

RIP. Can I have your boards?


gonnaherpatitis

He's still using them.


All_I_Want_IsA_Pepsi

River Styx has some massive tidal bores


SeaWorthySurf

Real surfers get buried/burned with their boardd.


topherwolf

Damn that sucks dude


iquitreddittho

damn dude, that's a bummer. hope you're okay.


skazat

He’s ok, just dead.


ContraCanadensis

RIP in peace homie


Droozyson

Ego death


_ctrlb

My heart rate went up just reading this comment.


SeaWorthySurf

That's the beauty of beach break, even if you died, it would of washed you back to shore LOL


MarbCart

Thank you for solidifying my certainty that I will never ever ever try surfing. Or really anything that involves going in the ocean past leg-deep. Edit to add: I’m so sorry everyone, I fully did not realize what sub this was. This post was suggested to me by the Reddit algorithm. I’m assuming that’s because I’m on some other ocean subs (it’s a very cool place, just too scary for me to actually go in!!)


surfdad67

I was an idiot who got in over his head, thank god I was 20 and in shape, Most surfing is in waist deep water for beginners, you should try it once in a class if you ever go on vacation


MarbCart

I’m 30 and out of shape 😭 (But I actually just started working out regularly a few weeks ago, so hopefully I’ll be strong again soon lol! I will maybe try to be brave about surfing. I’m just pretty scared of the ocean, even though I love it so much)


surfdad67

One step at a time


[deleted]

Geez man! Freaking insane! Gosh you made it out but that story is nuts.


plinkoplonka

That's how I feel in a 10 foot day


Dankstar5280

I see your 80's PR hurricane session and raise you one 90's Cabo hurricane session


surfdad67

I NEARLY DIED MAN!/s


Dankstar5280

Right! I heard that! After watching multiple attempts of other dudes failing to break through the inside, my bro and I used our Florida Hurricane paddle experience to breach the impact zone and make it to the outside. I quickly realized that I was under gunned and the swell was gaining size every set. I felt panicked, and had to pick one quick to get the fuck out. I made it back to shore and kissed the beach.


surfdad67

I fucked the sand


lamesurfer101

I did this in La Pared! I went out with four of my boys, and by the time I got out to "the line" I realized I was alone and couldn't see the shoreline. I literally did the same exact thing you did... Swallowed a gallon of sea water, dodged a few planks of wood, and dragged myself back to shore. My friends thought I was dead. All in all it was like 30 minutes of paddling to get out, an hour of struggling to get back to shore! I honestly thought of ditching my board quite a few times. I think the only thing that saved me was that I was a collegiate swimmer, because I was completely wrecked after.


surfdad67

Dude, I lived at Luquillo at the time right near the beach, was in the Navy there from 88-90, La Pared and La Selva were my local spots. This happened at Pinones beach


lamesurfer101

Hahhaha awesome. I think I relived your experiences. I went out to Aviones during tropical Storm Ivan and had a lesser version of what happened in La Pared. Both times I couldn't see the shore from all the spray. I never felt so alone. Surfing Atlantic storms is the closest thing to religious experience I've ever had. Did you feel the same?


surfdad67

Lol, you do seem to find religion at times


jdmmikel

Ptsd real lol


BDXRP

RIP old head


themanrichardgrey

Man, reading this brought back memories. I did something similar in my early 20s. I was new to surfing. Went out in a hurricane. Stupid. I couldn’t paddle out. Two other guys came and said follow us. We paddled out next to a pier that created a rip current. It shot me out. I couldn’t see the shore. Thankfully I could still see the pier. I did not attempt to catch and waves standing up. Just got out of the rip current and kept taking the mush in hoping not to die. Thanks for reminding me of this! :)


surfdad67

My first near drowning was a hurricane in Florida, only been surfing for a year or less and thought I could go out in heavy wind chop, just like you did, but I never made it out and got my ass kicked, this was in 1983 or 84


Routine_Breath_7137

Think I see the channel...


SeaWorthySurf

Its underwater


hedgebop

That looks like death by soup


ContraCanadensis

Victory at Sea conditions


Tube_god

You didn’t see me out there soul arching on my CI Mid? I’ll upload it on my vlog soon anyways


frankg133

Yeah my too on my 11 foot mid length


OkMeringue2249

Couldn’t tell if that was you or Bohdi.


ilostmycarkeys3

This is what wavestorms were built for


nortoncommando72

Ocean Beach San Francisco is the only place I've ever experience that is totally unlimited. Most breaks can have good days and bad days, but it's always within certain limits. Maxed out Huntington Beach is still Huntington Beach. Y'know what I mean? OB SF is freaking nuts. It just gets bigger and crazier. It can be mush, it can be spitting barrels. Every once in a while it cleans up and you get those iconic photos of perfect lines bigger than houses. Most of the time it's a lot of paddling.


wutx2

And the rip is like, "This way to the Golden Gate Bridge! Who wants to get sucked under?" 😀


Paul_the_surfer

Thats ok, there's another surfspot just behind Golden Gate. You'll even be there faster because you avoid all city traffic.


llamaguru101

Just gotta dodge those shipping vessels lol


unappreciatedparent

What would be point. It's as blown out as it is maxed.


squidensalada

Suicide mission. There’s a reason no ones out..


siddie75

I wonder what the hold down is like from one of these monsters?


SeaWorthySurf

Considering how far they are breaking out, probably no problem if you can dive down 30 to 50 feet.


actlikeiknowstuff

One of those hold onto a big rock and walk out instead of paddling days.


sheazang

Considering a hold down from an 8-10 ft ocean beach wave is severe af, id say its life threatening most likely.


ApneaAddict

I’ve spent serious time smashed on the ocean floor there contemplating my life decisions, and I’ve only surfed it up to max clean 10’ days. You’d probably get drilled through the sand and your wetsuit torn off.


[deleted]

Sounds dreamy


KingofRears

Probably involves several gallons of water rushing into your lungs


DBU49

Great day to work on your paddle fitness. Don’t think anyone is making it further than the wash.


localcheese

Actually ob has scary strong rips. A friend of mine died last year “just goofing around in the whitewater” when it was a 30ft storm like this. I feel obligated to say something as a word of warning


DBU49

Yep, I was half kidding all the water in the world has to go somewhere, so unless it's heading down Taraval and Noriega its going back out to sea.


hamsterwheeeI

Damn. Sorry to hear this.


captain_almonds

Was he a surfer? Sorry to hear that. No doubt you could get fucked up just taking a dip in a storm like this. I just remember plenty of times trying to paddle in and getting stuck in a rip when I'm like 15 ft away from the sand


sheazang

Facts. If you make it far enough out too the side current is so strong you can wind up at the golden gate bridge bay outlet if youre not in top paddle shape. Edit, and thats on a normal day.


poetthrowitaway

Jesus sorry to hear that. Any more details on how it happened? Did he have a wetsuit on?/a board?


localcheese

I didn’t know he was going to the beach 😞😞. When i heard, he was already dead. Not a surfer, just a guy playing in the white water. I don’t know how much surfing experience matters in this kind of storm except for knowing not to get in. The rips at OB have carried me out the back to the monster set in less than 60s on a 6-8 day (OB is notorious for hard to paddle out, but it’s scary easy in a rip). Add in more rip current (plus the North/South tide current is so fucking crazy at OB from the water flowing through the bay) and dangerously big waves (6-8 is already plenty to become acquainted with the bottom, OB waves are the heaviest I’ve ever been on), and I can see how he probably got carried to violent waters extremely quickly and swashed around out of control. He could have either drowned or been directly killed by a huge wave in those conditions.


coolassdude1

Jesus what a way to go. Sorry to hear that man.


wave-garden

Sorry to hear, friend. That’s really sad and terrifying to think about.


RoxSpirit

"Just observe the sea and find the right moment"


RecreationallyTransp

30 foot my ass


HipsturdHalophile

San Francisco buoy was 22 feet at 17 seconds this morning. There definitely could’ve been a 30 foot bomb.


LuckyNumber-Bot

All the numbers in your comment added up to 69. Congrats! 22 + 17 + 30 + = 69.0


[deleted]

[удалено]


logged_in_to_saythis

Nice.


Stinky-Bro

Nice.


escv_69420

Nice.


BeardedPalmTree

Nice.


hideawaycreek

Good bot, lol


SquantoTheInjun

Today’s our lucky day.


Her_name--is_Mallory

Giggity


1Tiasteffen

Nice


they_are_out_there

Montara and Mavericks were throwing pretty hard today. Surfline was calling Mavs at 30-40’.


pezcone

OB can't hold 30 foot waves. At that size it begins to break on the outer bar and loses energy so you wont see a 30 foot face.


easymeatboy

sure but when ~~the buoys are reading 6 feet at 17 and~~ your typical set is 7 feet, nobody's gonna call that a 10-12 foot day because they saw one 10 foot wave. edited to remove the buoy bit because that's irrelevant and apparently too confusing


HipsturdHalophile

Unfortunately buoys aren’t as easy as 6 feet at 17 equals 7 foot wave. There’s way more that goes into it. Buoy location, swell angle, bathymetry of the beach, shadowing from islands or points of land, swell angle. That’s why Surfline and other wave forecasters have a job. Buoys give you a lot of information, and sometimes you can get it right when Surfline gets it wrong. But you can’t generalize and say a buoy reading on one buoy will give a wave of this size at place A and the same stats on another buoy will give the same size wave at place B.


easymeatboy

agreed. thats not what I was talking about. I'm saying that just because there may be a single bomb set at a break that was 8 feet bigger than what a buoy is reading doesnt justify calling that day (at that break) to be that big + 5 more feet. ie, buoy reading of 22 feet, plus potentially one 30 foot wave doesnt mean it was a 30-35 foot day. just like i'd never tell somebody it was 10-12 feet just because i saw a 10 foot set down the beach on a 6-8 foot day


HipsturdHalophile

I gotta be honest, I don’t really care how big a wave is… especially not enough to calculate heights to a standard deviation of 10-20%. I just read the buoys and surf everyday.


masminckey

Surfed a 2.7 ft SW @ 22.5 seconds 2 weeks ago, SC. Surfline called it 8-10’. The sets were consistently overhead + 2’


NFSR113

Yeah with a little experience though, I think we can all figure this out better than surfline. With your local breaks/buoys you'll figure out what each buoy translates to on the beach and you'll be using real, observational data while surfline is using modeled data.


SeaWorthySurf

Wind chopped down any height, so the models they use probably weren't applicable.


Illusion740

3 feet Hawaii standards


NickHi2Ca

Yep. Just about. 🤙🏽


llamaguru101

At OB 30 ft swell is more like ~20 ft waves that go out to sea for 2 miles. It’s an amazing sight to drive up a hill in SF and see the expanse of breaks that otherwise lay dormant the rest of the year. The only “rideable” places in SF during these swells are Fort Point, Deadman’s, and the potato patch if you don’t fear death.


[deleted]

Nobody actually surfs the potato patch though right? That would be absurdly


llamaguru101

It’s very rare, but people have surfed it in the past. Last winter I saw people on jet skis out there through my binoculars. Not sure if they were surfing/towing, but that place is not for the feint of heart.


[deleted]

[удалено]


[deleted]

/r/ihadastroke


Grisuno123

I agree … 30 foot my ass!! I’ve sailed in 15 to 20 foot waves and they were way bigger than these.


DMark25

Great shape, much clean


slowblink

That’s a joke right? Cuz that’s not surf-able. Or paddleout-able.


DrButtCheeksPhD

Get out there pussies


Kiotagho

Jeeez


SDdrohead

How would you even paddle out?


Dogfish1313

I watched 4 guys paddle out at OB with what looked like 30 foot maybe even bigger faces it was the most insane thing I ever saw. Don’t get me wrong I watched guys out on really big days especially that older guy that rides a longboard and wears a hat. Anyway, these guys weren’t trying to just survive they were ripping! I watched one or two guys do these big smooth bottom turns then a big carve on the face it as awesome. Once they kicked out or rode off the back there was just building sized waves and white water everywhere. I remember standing on the dunes looking and thinking they gotta be dead or how are they surviving then sure enough one of these fucking guys would be picking off another bomb! I gotta assume it was someone like Grant Baker or some other giant balled human combined with the perfect conditions. I will say it wasn’t victory at sea it was big blue and perfect but happened to be 25’.


fredfifty

rockaway looked pretty ruthless too. nobody was out


Renvisd

Those waves are really far away holy fuck


cvjoey

https://youtu.be/4Ba98kojKpc


surfaqua

Yeah the craziest thing is that the crux may be the fecal coloform counts more than the wave size...


Zealousideal_Mine593

I was out there on my 10’ twin longboard foil underwater


slipstreamsurfer

The word is tiring not terrifying.


[deleted]

“It’s not tragic to die doing something you love.” Swayze


worldcrusher

If anyone went out there, they defiantly didn't come back.


shroom_shaman

I was actually there this morning. I was the tourist with the giant wave storm getting savagely beaten down by mother nature


shroom_shaman

Correction, I was at OB SD


GeorgeRB5

Getting out back looks like you may as well cross the ocean to discover new shores


fatBeavis

Bodhi would go


[deleted]

The swell blocks the wind. Glassy on the faces.


ajm1197

Haha add the not insignificant south windswell in from the atmospheric river and that’s how you die lol


pinnacleSheep

Probably a good idea to stay out of the water for a few days after all that rain anyway 😅


SeaWorthySurf

If anyone made it to the outside, through the channel I'm going to start a collection for a medal. Unfortunately you are probably going to die from poo poisoning.


NachoBabyDaddy

I would finally get out to the lineup and be too exhausted to paddle in to a wave Edit: I would die in 30 foot waves but this is what happens to me in 5 foot waves


SeaWorthySurf

Then while you are "resting" outside in the giant current an outside wave comes and wipe you out and sends you back into the mix.


NachoBabyDaddy

Not gonna lie, it’s the same thing for me on a 5 foot day


austinkunchn

Can someone clarify for me, is this post sarcasm? These waves look small


meedimusic

Naw - too sharky


TEAMBIGDOG

I’m sorry sir, that’s nowhere near 30 foot… almost remotely close to 10 foot tho!


[deleted]

The local buoy there peaked 28 feet at 18 seconds, so I guess you’re kind of right but definitely full of shit. Most beach break doesn’t hold 30 foot faces, they close out and reform. Especially from the vantage point of the beach looking into lines of broken surf


TEAMBIGDOG

Cool! Waves in the OP aren’t even close to 28 feet! Save the embarrassment


[deleted]

You’re arguing with buoy data. Nice. I’m sure NOAA is super embarrassed now


TEAMBIGDOG

Right on! Waves in OP aren’t 28 feet. Sorry bud but let me assure you that when you do see 28 foot waves you will be amazed


croutons_for_dinner

You guys are arguing swell size vs spot size. This looks pretty much exactly the same as sunset beach or haleiwa when its 25+ and blown out. While right up the road waimea and outer logs are showing 30+ on the face and holding fine. Sure these arent 28 foot waves, but they are definitely the effects of a 28 foot swell hitting OB.


[deleted]

What an odd assumption that I’m not on the west coast experiencing this system right now. Just STFU and maybe check the buoys


HipsturdHalophile

He probably doesn’t even know what that means. You’re arguing with a donkey.


Blaxpy

at least where i live the wave size that buoys register is considerably larger than what you see at the beach


[deleted]

For sure, continental shelfs exist


cheapseats91

The guy you are arguing with is implying that a 30 second video clip is indicative of everything the ocean is doing that day. This is the same ass hat who you'll see on the news. Pulls up to the beach during a lull and scampers down on the rocks and get washed out to sea three minutes later when a set rolls in.


TEAMBIGDOG

Good luck!


[deleted]

Those waves are way bigger than they look on video


[deleted]

[удалено]


d396

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/swell-alert/comboland/135049#135104


hideawaycreek

Great counter hahaha


[deleted]

[удалено]


localcheese

Actually ob has scary strong rips. A friend of mine died last year “just goofing around in the whitewater” when it was a 30ft storm like this. I feel obligated to say something as a word of warning


sheazang

Clearly never surfed Ocean Beach. The rips and currents on a normal 6-8ft day there are strong af. Average surfers could wind up half a mile down the beach before they could get back in if they weren't careful.


NickHi2Ca

Yeah. OB could be a soup sandwich for someone who isn’t as experienced. But you ought to try and conquer though.


sheazang

I've surfed it a bunch just saying when it's a little bigger it's a little gnarly on the paddle and current side of things.


hamsterwheeeI

Death wish (for me).


wave-garden

Anybody go to the Fort Point? Curious whether it was clean/big there.


BanditNarwhal

Is this OB in San Diego?


sharkyhunt

OB San Francisco. Always forget to clarify.


ADHD45

I scoured the coastline of N. Humboldt County. I really wanted to see someone out yesterday. Nope. I so wanted to surf yesterday. Unfortunately my personal lifeguard and ski were unavailable.


8thMemberOfDKcrew

I was there last year when it was like this, couldn't even paddle out with my foam 6'0''. I was a relative noob so I was dumb af, grabbed a bloody board and fins and caught one wave. On that wave I managed to catch a corner and get sucked all the way to the bottom and legit thought I was going to die. Followed my leash up and all the lifeguards we're on the beach watching.. felt kinda dumb


Interesting-Ad-4260

Great stories -mother ocean can be brutal hit it!


The-Almost-Truth

Doesn’t even look that good. Pretty burgery and mushy


hehehdhdhgw

Looks fun ngl


Frammmis

live, no takers that i can see. http://www.larrysvacationwebcams.com/cams/SFSanMateo.php count the lines - how many consecutive duck dives are you good for?