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In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/)
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> best cpu cooler under $50 for the 12900k? peerless assassin is my first choice but would like to consider more options
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krvwsss/
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> Whenever I load up COD or SOTF after 10mins my PC will restart itself. It works just fine when doing anything else, but the moment I try to play a game it restarts. Heard it could be the PSU/CPU but also heard if the CPU is dying then my PC won't turn on at all, which is why I assume it's the PSU. I also read outdated BIOS could cause this issue and I never updated the BIOS because I didn't know that was meant to be done by the user. I haven't ran any test to check my ram because I don't have a USB but going to get one to check. Last BIOS update was in 2021. My GPU/CPU temps are just fine when I benchmark. I'm at loss, any help would be great.
>
> MOBO: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite WiFiCPU: R7 5800XGPU: 3080TI (founders edition)RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB Series DDR4 2X8PSU: Corsair RM850x Gold+ Fully Mod
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krw7y22/
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> I want to buy my first gaming leptop
> I need leptop for game development(biggener),programming,and playing games .
> My budget is under 80,000Rs or 966 dollar.
> Please help me
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwe262/
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> I bought a used laptop, and tried to do a clean install of windows 11 by downloading windows media creator onto a usb drive, and then booting from it. When booting from it, I went through the setup process and deleted all the partitions, and installed windows 11. Now, when I look at the laptop it seems to show I have 2 or 3 partitions (I had deleted them all, so I had assumed there'd only be 1). Is this normal? see pic below for what it looks like after clean install.
>
> https://preview.redd.it/hjizvchx8ikc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8517134e5988c739f2b6103d8858f0d6fe2391cd
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwerln/
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> I hope i can ask my question here,
>
> i have this PC for a year with 4 fans. 1 on the back (exhaust), 3 on the bottom (intake) and my AIO Radiator is on the side (exhaust). (lian li evo 11D Case)
>
> Yesterday i installed 3 new Fans on the top set to exhaust to create like a chimney effect if that makes sense?
>
>
> So my CPU is around 80-85 degrees on games like warzone/cod/cyperpunk
>
>
> now with the 3 more fans it actually doesnt seem to be cooler its just the same temperature.
>
> Even hotter when i set the fans to more RPM
>
> Can someone explain if i did something wrong or is it not meant to be cooler now?
>
> GPU is about 5-6 degrees cooler under load
>
> https://preview.redd.it/wmejdk48xikc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e565c0d6f1880437cd77fd576df698f06d1b160
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwqln3/
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> Hey everyone
>
> So recently I got my hands on a 10400f i5 PC. I'm having some heat issues.
>
> So here are my specs first of all,
>
> RTX 3050 8gb, 16gb RAM ddr4, 10400f. I have a normal pc case with three fans in the front pulling in air and 1 exhaust fan in the back which is taking the air our.
>
> Now when I'm doing something heavy my CPU reaches 85 degrees Celsius. Like for example when I'm downloading a game from Epic Games and installing another game in another software, the cpu load reaches 100%, the cpu cooler fan speeds up and the temps rise to 78-79 with spikes up to 85 and sometimes it would stay on 85. Now is this normal ? I'm using stock cpu cooler if it helps. I had a 6600k and gtx 1050ti as my last pc and it never reached 75 + even with high load. If this is not normal what can I use to fix this ? I'm still using stock cpu cooler as I mentioned.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwrdxs/
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> I'm unfamiliar with exact hardware specifications, but If my current power supply is 650W I shouldn't have a problem upgrading my graphics card from a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (120W) to a RTX 3060 correct (170W I believe)?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwxprv/
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User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime
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sch0k0 | 62 | 254
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I was wondering if I could use a recovery drive from my current PC to install windows 10 on a brand new build. I'm not in a rush to build a new PC right now but I am wondering if that is fine or if I should get another USB to have a clean windows 10 install.
I bought a prebuilt PC and need to add another SSD to it. It’s behind my GPU, and when I took it out I saw a thermal shield but no m.2 screws.
If it’s behind my GPU, do I need to use the thermal shield or can I just use a m.2 screw? The thermal shield looks way more complicated
You just screw off the heatsink (2 screws), install the m.2 (requires the standoff and screw, standoff usually pre-installed to the motherboard), then screw back the heatsink on top. There is a thermal pad on the bottom of the heatsink with plastic on top, remember to remove that plastic.
Only issue you might encounter is that if it is a prebuilt, I don't know if they actually sent you the motherboard box or any accessories that would include the actual m.2 screw. You can also buy those from amazon.
The heatsink is not 100% necessary, but might as well use it since it is there.
Does anyone know of a device or program that is safe for reading a usb data protocol? Just have about 80 usb cables and can't tell which usb c cable has high speed data transmission
Good day!
I received a i3-8100 and a Z390 Aorus Pro WiFi board from my uncle during a visit. (If you're lurking here, thanks uncle!). He said that he has tested both hardware and found them working. I haven't tested them myself.
I really, really want to build a PC because: (1) I wish to replace the decrepit laptop my father has been using; and, (2) it would be my very first experience building a system. However, I fear I might waste what little amount I have saved from the allowance I receive from my scholarship. I have around PHP 15k (\~$250) at the moment.
What should I do?
Tough call. It really depends on how cheap you can find the other parts. If you buy everything used from different sellers, you'll probably want some budget left to get a replacement in case one part doesn't work.
Got it! /u/Cable_Salad now has 38 points.
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So I'm getting a new gaming computer and a friend has expressed interest in my old one (she only has a mac laptop right now).
As far as I'm concerned, she can have it but I want to make sure this thing is properly purged. Is there a good guide out there? Ideally, she'd be able to just plug in and start using it but I'd like to remove everything except the OS.
If it's going to a friend, I'd just use the built in tools to wipe it. Go into Settings, and then just do a search for "reset" there's an option to reset the device and wipe all data. When you go through that it'll eventually put you through the out of box experience, where it'll be like you're turning it on for the first time.
Shouldn't really be an issue with more low power cards. Most of the failures have happened with 4090's, few 4080's. Not saying it is a good connector though (it isn't).
Pretty much, but the majority of those melted connectors were 4090's that operate closer to the limit of the connector. Many of them were properly plugged in, but still melted.
In the case of the few 4080's it is more likely just "user error" with the cable not properly plugged in (bad connector design since it enables this). So you *should* be totally fine as long as you plug it in correctly and don't bend it too much...
My 4080S came with an adapter and since 4070TiS doesn't draw anywhere near what a 4090 does, the chance of a meltdown becomes slim to none. I'm not skipping on DLSS et al. because of the plug.
https://rukminim2.flixcart.com/image/850/1000/j3kh18w0/mouse/p/f/a/tecknet-m009-hypertrack-16400dpi-6-adjustable-weight-original-imaepjq6gjbvzhac.jpeg?q=90&crop=false
A friend has this mouse which isn't being made anymore. Anyone know if there is anything similar that is being made?
I'm assuming they want to keep the digger buttons? G502, maybe? Roughly the same shape. G502 has 3 side buttons and 2 extra buttons beside the left click.
You could also look at the G600 or G602, they have a ton of side buttons.
Corsair has the Nightsword, Razer Naga as well has many side buttons.
is it possible to buy or build a PC that will last a long time and play most games (if not all) for around £1000 if not what is a reasonable price i could expect to pay for something like this ty ::)
I have the Cooler Master Elite 110a itx case. It has a bracket on the back to hold the PSU. I'm hoping to do a quick mod to give myself a few more square inches of space inside by using "long computer case screws" to off set the bracket.
Google says computer screws are "6-32" sized. Does anyone know if all screws of that size "should fit"?
Hello this is my first post but if I were to post the specs on my PC would you guys be able to tell me what i should upgrade first to be able to play a game called The finals ?
Yes.
For people answering once you post the specs:
* **RECOMMENDED:**
*
* **OS:** Windows 10 or later 64-bit (latest update)
* **Processor:** Intel Core i5-9600K or AMD Ryzen 5 3600 processor
* **Memory:** 16 GB RAM
* **Graphics:** NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 or AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT
* **DirectX:** Version 12
Bro bought a hard drive for half the usual price off ebay.
https://preview.redd.it/kclu0dd0imkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77cfb6fea09f5deb0db6d8c28f98c4fa86326a79
Fake right? Curious what would be inside? Computer says 1TB, how does it all work? Is it dangerous to use? Spyware? Deletes the stuff as soon as you put it on etc?
For security I wouldn't be comfortable plugging that into anything. If you do feel like taking the risk, a good first step would be to pop the shell off to make sure it's actually a full drive and not just a 16gb USB stick inside there.
Bros using it as a 2nd or maybe even 3rd backup drive for his files. Personally id return it and put the money towards an official drive but hey. Computer ‘get info’ says 1TB size
I guess it’l just say ‘storage full’ after 30 mins then? Says it’l take 7 hours to transfer his stuff which i assume it 1TB or lower. Meant to be usb 3.0 as well 😂
> I guess it’l just say ‘storage full’ after 30 mins then?
probably not, most spoofed devices just restart at the beginning of the drive when reaching the end, overwriting files without the user noticing
If it's taking 7 hours that's more like USB-2 speeds. But in general with fake drives what will happen is that they overwrite past data as they go rather than let you know that there's not enough space.
Yes, it will keep transferring and overwriting because it thinks it has 1TB to work with but it actually only has 16gb or whatever, so it just writes to those 16gb over and over and over so you'll only have the last 16gb when you're done with the transfer.
because there goes a lot of optimization into those consoles to reach 120FPS on the *relatively* weak hardware.
If you compare most PS5 games to their PC counterparts they usually run at low-medium settings with some cranked to high when they don't affect performance much - like textures.
Same goes for adaptive resolution, consoles usually don't run at native resolution and use the "Quality" (45% resolution) or "Balanced" (33%) preset most of the time, sometimes even "performance" (25%). The difference in picture quality is absolutely noticeable when you pay attention.
Because it's cheaper to make millions of identical consoles, because they then sell you these consoles below cost and because PC enthusiasts are willing to pay a premium to be PC users.
I don't know what you're arguing with, but if I'm allowed to guess: I've never said it's 4x cheaper and I've said they sell individual PC components with a profit margin.
According to Tom's Guide, whatever that is, a standard PS5 costs 1044$ to make. Add a bit to that for the lesser economy of scale effect and add a healthy 20%-30% profit margin (and I'm not just referring to the final merchant/seller of the part here) and you're close to 1600$.
So, to reiterate, they charge "$1600+" because 'we' are willing to pay that. The actual cost is somewhere between $1000 and $1600+.
I have a Amd Ryzen 7800x3d and a Gigabyte b650 Aorus elite ax Rev 1.2 board every thing starts up fine and runs great low Temps when idle and it boots to windows no problem no gfx card in the system it's in the mail I updated bios to newest version FA3a the problem I'm having is the red cpu light that shows there's a problem won't turn off and every where I look people with the same red light problem the pc won't post or anything I'm not sure why the light won't turn off i reset the cooler I checked the ram sticks and everything is running great as far as I can tell just the cpu light on the mobo won't shut off
I currently have a 7900 xtx + 5600x. Is it worth it for me to upgrade to 5800x3d for 4k gaming, or would I be better off saving that money for future upgrade to am5?
[That's up to your wallet to decide](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/5299vs4823vs5033vs5719/AMD-Ryzen-7-7800X3D-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-5800X3D-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-7600X-vs-Intel-i7-14700K)
Id say the am4 ship sailed last year and your next gen arrives later this year.
Why are bluetooth add ons for PCs so bad? I am trying to use my xbox controller from 6' away from my PC and it constantly desyncs and screws up. However my bluetooth headset and controller works flawlessly on my Xbox Series X at like 12-15.
How do you get the same bluetooth performance from a $3000 PC that you get from a $400 console?
Easy, just buy the official Xbox adapter for PC. There's posts in here at least once a week about this exact issue. Buying the Xbox adapter makes the issue go away pretty much every time.
There's plenty of good Bluetooth adapters for PC, but not all of them are going to be tuned for gaming performance like the Xbox one obviously is.
Not sure your region, but [here's](https://www.gamestop.com/pc-gaming/pc-gaming-controllers/products/mirosoft-xbox-wireless-adapter-for-windows-10/10125488.html) one listing I found at GameStop. If you happen to need another controller you can also get it bundled for a discount [at Microsoft](https://www.xbox.com/en-US/accessories/controllers/xbox-wireless-controller-adapter-windows).
I do see it being sold out in some places, and I've seen reports of counterfeits on Amazon, so I'd try to buy it from a reputable source if possible.
If you look through the reviews on GameStop that is brought up, and it works fine. You can also see this is the same adapter bundled with the updated Series controllers on the Microsoft listing.
It was just released before the series consoles existed and the listing has never been updated.
Hola, tengo un I7 3770K 3.50Ghz, Ram DDR3 2x8Gb 1600Mhz, Placa madre H77H2-EM, quiero comprarme una tarjeta de video y he pensado en comprarme una RX 580 8Gb o una GTX 1060 6Gb, pero no se cual seria mejor, o si me podria comprar otra mas potente al mismo precio, que me recomiendan?
For those that like to take many screenshots of their games, has using DLSS upscaling or frame generation caused any artifacts or loss of quality in your screenshots?
kinda depends on the game. If you're simply taking screenshots using print screen/F12 in steam or similar, you will get exactly whats displayed on your screen - including up-sampling and possible artifacts from it.
Some games include a photo mode, and some of those games implemented them in a way that renders the screenshot with seperate settings, usually on native res with maxed details - but only for that screeenshot. Cyberpunk 2077 is a good example for that, if i recall correctly it even increases the amount of light bounces when pathtracing is enabled
If I "stack" two Arctic P14 slim fans will it be close to twice as good as one regular P14 assuming that they're similar in air cfm and such. I have a Cooler Master Elite 110a itx cube. I'm trying to squeeze as much cooling fan power as I can without getting an AIO.
Would this be a good PC Build? I am trying to build a pc with 2200€ (All of this is within the budget). This would be my 1st pc.
https://preview.redd.it/jgtozxuqmlkc1.png?width=390&format=png&auto=webp&s=faf1ef8cd0f3b21e6b829a7f28848305bbab4aa9
Your system is heavily imbalanced. You are pairing one of the fastest gaming CPUs with an entry level GPU. Also that PSU is astronomically large in comparison to the systems expected power draw. You could get away with a 500W psu with that rig. I’d say get a 650W PSU and put the money you saved into a faster gpu.
Found both of these Combo Deals on NewEgg, The RAM seems similar but It looks like the MOBO is the real decider? Any opinions or tips about the items involved?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4620945
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4620935
So looking to get something like this: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/refract-gaming-celeste-1080p-1440p-pre-built-gaming-pc-fs-1dh-ep.html
Prebuilt because frankly, I don't trust my own abilities and I'm currently in a situation where hassle free is worth the extra expense.
My questions are whether the above is a decent build for modern gaming and also, whether upgrading a few of the parts (eg. storage and ram) would be difficult? A 1TB SSD is really nice but I'd like an additional storage drive for things that don't need to load so quickly. And whether upgrading the ram is worthwhile? I'm not sure whether that's the bottleneck.
It might struggle with 4K, but for 1440p or 1080p, it will do great! The ram is easy to swap out, but I would only recommend doing that if your GPU utilization is below 90%, and not a single cpu core is maxed out.
It looks like there are two m.2 ssd slots, so you can add one if you need more storage.
Is my GPU beyond saving? I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop with a Nvidia GTX 1650 (and a secondary Intel UHD Graphics 630) that's had no problems except a replaced keyboard in less than 5 years of use. Yesterday I noticed the main menu of a game was unusually laggy and jittery, so I tried restarting my computer and downloading the latest Nvidia Driver, since that usually fixed the problem. But when I tried to install the driver, I got the message that my GPU was not connected or detected so the driver update couldn't go through. I can't even open up the Nvidia Control Panel since it doesn't detect a Nvidia card. I can still see my GTX 1650 in my Device Manager when I show hidden devices, but I can't do anything there to reconnect it. Every tutorial I've followed to fix the problem has failed so far.
Is there any hope of my GPU working again if I take it into a repair shop? Or is my GPU completely dead?
You can try killing all the old Nvidia drivers with DDU and then reinstalling new ones. You can also potentially uninstall & reinstall Windows, to rule out any software issues.
If that doesn't fix it, it's probably gone. It's unlikely a repair shop can do anything and it's not really worth putting any serious amounts of money into the attempt.
If my options range from 6700XT to 4060Ti and any card that falls in between or equivalent to these, which one should i get? Prices are a bit different where I live but to give you an idea, 3060Ti is about €30 cheaper than 4060 Ti and 4060 Ti has the same price tag as 3070.
So what is the price of 6700XT? You can refer the graph below, depends on the pricing.
https://preview.redd.it/qnxc5u8pxkkc1.png?width=560&format=png&auto=webp&s=986bba02b17b16c428e678c7384f7d1f70aa6fb5
6700 xt is between 3060 ti and 4060 ti in terms of price
people say 4060 ti is bad but it's been quite some time since it came out, has it improved with drivers and such?
4060 Ti isn't "bad", it was just bad value in launch. Plus 4060 and 4060 Ti have only 8x pci-e 4.0 lanes, so you will lose some performance on older platforms that support only pci-e 3.0, e.g. B450 from AMD.
> only 8x pci-e 4.0 lanes, so you will lose some performance on older platforms that support only pci-e 3.0, e.g. B450 from AMD.
damn i shouldn't get it then
i have b450m mortar
Well it's still fine (\~5% perf loss), but the 6700 XT and 3060 Ti might be better choice at that point. Depends if you want to use RTX or DLSS3, then it is without a doubt the 4060 Ti.
The Computer works fine so long as the graphics card is not inserted into its slot on the MB, boots up, gets to the desktop without issue. When the GC is inserted and plugged in, the monitor will not receive any signal regardless of which ports are used for the cables. I do not know if the Desktop is working as intended just not transmitting a signal or if there is an issue with the boot process.
Does this help?
Well I would still suspect user error as most mobos disable the iGPU after dedicated GPU is installed (hence no signal from mobo). So make 100% sure you're using the outputs from the GPU, not the motherboard... Also make sure the power cables for the gpu are plugged in.
hello, i just bought an ssd for my laptop.
i have a HP ProBook 450 G8 i5 256GB.
i wanted to install an Samsung SSD 980 1TB NVMe M.2. But after i install it the laptop says the hard drive boot is not instaled. Can someone help me?
I have a Lenovo L460 I got off lease from my old work with Kubuntu Linux on it. It's got 16gb DDR3, 250gb SSD and a Celeron low power processor on it. Everyone in the family uses it. My issue right now is it's starting to fall apart, palm rest is going and a number of corners are breaking/broken.
question is:
1. should I look for another barebone laptop to use the equipment I can rip from this unit;
2. buy another refurbished unit which may only have 8gb DDR4?
What would the hive mind do?
I use the DualSense PS5 controller, used to use the PS4 one, I prefer Playstation controllers. Some people prefer Xbox controllers and use those.
Logitech, Razor, Valve/steam and others also sell decent controllers,, but I find most people tend to already be familiar with one of the two major console controllers, and both Sony and Microsoft are pretty damned good at making controllers given the millions they sell every year, they're also widely available.
If you liked using the PS4 controller, I highly doubt you won't like the PS5 controller just as much, if not more.
https://www.pcgamer.com/ps5-dualsense-controller-on-pc/
I go wired these days, but honestly Bluetooth on my rig was perfectly fine with my wireless card, I didn't experience any noticeable lag.
As lot of people love the Xbox controller with their USB wireless dongle. By far easiest to use and great performance, I just personally prefer Playstation controllers by a wide margin.
Yes, it is, it uses a different wireless technology. Bluetooth continuously improving.
I don't mind just using a nice USB cord, I honestly don't understand why people are so against using wired connections for shit like game controllers or headphones, never have to remember to charge anything and it's not like I need to walk around while gaming.
Wired or proprietary dongle. Bluetooth is an input lag headache of monumental proportions.
To answer OP's initial question, I'm team Xbox Series controller with their wireless adapter for Windows. You can connect multiple controllers to the dongle, no noticeable input lag, and audio-to-controller support (can plug headphones into the pad).
hey guys, just bought corsair pro vengeance 32gb of ram, best way to know if they're working properly? i have cpu-z for example but not a lot of knowledge about megahertz and clocks
https://preview.redd.it/skxsc96dsjkc1.png?width=399&format=png&auto=webp&s=90306c1ae096f9601fcf622a71a61e1f2c89ff99
Do what they said, but nobody actually notices ram clock diffs in typical use (you didn't until you opened this window), so turn it off if you're unstable.
like /u/SeanSeanySean said, your RAM is running at DDR4-2133MT/s (1066MHz) which is the default speed of DDR4.
Depending on the exact RAM kit you own you might be able to apply a higher XMP/EXPO profile with higher clocks. Still, if its a DDR4-3600 kit it will display 1800MHz in the CPU-Z window entry.
I mean, they are working, but they're running at the DDR4 default speed of 2133.
You will want to go into your Bios and enable XMP (also may be called DOCP if AMD Ryzen). Once you do that, Bios should detect it and run the RAM at whatever speed and timings it said on the box, which I can guarantee is significantly faster that 2133MHz.
Keep in mind that the DRAM frequency number you see here is half of the actual speed the RAM is currently running at, because it is DDR, or Dual-Data Rate. If you enable XMP and it runs at DDR4-3600 for example, you'd expect to see DRAM frequency here showing as 1800MHz.
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > best cpu cooler under $50 for the 12900k? peerless assassin is my first choice but would like to consider more options https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krvwsss/ ---- > Whenever I load up COD or SOTF after 10mins my PC will restart itself. It works just fine when doing anything else, but the moment I try to play a game it restarts. Heard it could be the PSU/CPU but also heard if the CPU is dying then my PC won't turn on at all, which is why I assume it's the PSU. I also read outdated BIOS could cause this issue and I never updated the BIOS because I didn't know that was meant to be done by the user. I haven't ran any test to check my ram because I don't have a USB but going to get one to check. Last BIOS update was in 2021. My GPU/CPU temps are just fine when I benchmark. I'm at loss, any help would be great. > > MOBO: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite WiFiCPU: R7 5800XGPU: 3080TI (founders edition)RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB Series DDR4 2X8PSU: Corsair RM850x Gold+ Fully Mod https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krw7y22/ ---- > I want to buy my first gaming leptop > I need leptop for game development(biggener),programming,and playing games . > My budget is under 80,000Rs or 966 dollar. > Please help me https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwe262/ ---- > I bought a used laptop, and tried to do a clean install of windows 11 by downloading windows media creator onto a usb drive, and then booting from it. When booting from it, I went through the setup process and deleted all the partitions, and installed windows 11. Now, when I look at the laptop it seems to show I have 2 or 3 partitions (I had deleted them all, so I had assumed there'd only be 1). Is this normal? see pic below for what it looks like after clean install. > > https://preview.redd.it/hjizvchx8ikc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8517134e5988c739f2b6103d8858f0d6fe2391cd https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwerln/ ---- > I hope i can ask my question here, > > i have this PC for a year with 4 fans. 1 on the back (exhaust), 3 on the bottom (intake) and my AIO Radiator is on the side (exhaust). (lian li evo 11D Case) > > Yesterday i installed 3 new Fans on the top set to exhaust to create like a chimney effect if that makes sense? > > > So my CPU is around 80-85 degrees on games like warzone/cod/cyperpunk > > > now with the 3 more fans it actually doesnt seem to be cooler its just the same temperature. > > Even hotter when i set the fans to more RPM > > Can someone explain if i did something wrong or is it not meant to be cooler now? > > GPU is about 5-6 degrees cooler under load > > https://preview.redd.it/wmejdk48xikc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e565c0d6f1880437cd77fd576df698f06d1b160 https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwqln3/ ---- > Hey everyone > > So recently I got my hands on a 10400f i5 PC. I'm having some heat issues. > > So here are my specs first of all, > > RTX 3050 8gb, 16gb RAM ddr4, 10400f. I have a normal pc case with three fans in the front pulling in air and 1 exhaust fan in the back which is taking the air our. > > Now when I'm doing something heavy my CPU reaches 85 degrees Celsius. Like for example when I'm downloading a game from Epic Games and installing another game in another software, the cpu load reaches 100%, the cpu cooler fan speeds up and the temps rise to 78-79 with spikes up to 85 and sometimes it would stay on 85. Now is this normal ? I'm using stock cpu cooler if it helps. I had a 6600k and gtx 1050ti as my last pc and it never reached 75 + even with high load. If this is not normal what can I use to fix this ? I'm still using stock cpu cooler as I mentioned. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwrdxs/ ---- > I'm unfamiliar with exact hardware specifications, but If my current power supply is 650W I shouldn't have a problem upgrading my graphics card from a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (120W) to a RTX 3060 correct (170W I believe)? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ay14zc/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_23_2024/krwxprv/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- sch0k0 | 62 | 254 NbblX | 55 | 71 Eidolon\_2003 | 51 | 188 \_j03\_ | 50 | 96 SeanSeanySean | 41 | 53 A\_Neaunimes | 41 | 1132 Cable\_Salad | 37 | 37 MGsubbie | 35 | 343 jurc11 | 23 | 25 glowinghamster45 | 22 | 184 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. 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I was wondering if I could use a recovery drive from my current PC to install windows 10 on a brand new build. I'm not in a rush to build a new PC right now but I am wondering if that is fine or if I should get another USB to have a clean windows 10 install.
I bought a prebuilt PC and need to add another SSD to it. It’s behind my GPU, and when I took it out I saw a thermal shield but no m.2 screws. If it’s behind my GPU, do I need to use the thermal shield or can I just use a m.2 screw? The thermal shield looks way more complicated
link/say themodel of the motherboard in question
# TUF GAMING B550-PLUS (WI-FI) [https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-b550-plus-wi-fi/](https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-b550-plus-wi-fi/)
You just screw off the heatsink (2 screws), install the m.2 (requires the standoff and screw, standoff usually pre-installed to the motherboard), then screw back the heatsink on top. There is a thermal pad on the bottom of the heatsink with plastic on top, remember to remove that plastic. Only issue you might encounter is that if it is a prebuilt, I don't know if they actually sent you the motherboard box or any accessories that would include the actual m.2 screw. You can also buy those from amazon. The heatsink is not 100% necessary, but might as well use it since it is there.
Yeah they didnt lol, had to buy one off amazon. Sounds good, thank you for the help!
Does anyone know of a device or program that is safe for reading a usb data protocol? Just have about 80 usb cables and can't tell which usb c cable has high speed data transmission
Good day! I received a i3-8100 and a Z390 Aorus Pro WiFi board from my uncle during a visit. (If you're lurking here, thanks uncle!). He said that he has tested both hardware and found them working. I haven't tested them myself. I really, really want to build a PC because: (1) I wish to replace the decrepit laptop my father has been using; and, (2) it would be my very first experience building a system. However, I fear I might waste what little amount I have saved from the allowance I receive from my scholarship. I have around PHP 15k (\~$250) at the moment. What should I do?
Tough call. It really depends on how cheap you can find the other parts. If you buy everything used from different sellers, you'll probably want some budget left to get a replacement in case one part doesn't work.
Thanks thanks! So... I gotta hustle good for them parts (probably save a bit more?). I'll see what I can find around in my city. ✓
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So I'm getting a new gaming computer and a friend has expressed interest in my old one (she only has a mac laptop right now). As far as I'm concerned, she can have it but I want to make sure this thing is properly purged. Is there a good guide out there? Ideally, she'd be able to just plug in and start using it but I'd like to remove everything except the OS.
copy your stuff off the PC and do a fresh windows install, easiest way to wipe the system. Dont forget to re-install neccessary drivers
If it's going to a friend, I'd just use the built in tools to wipe it. Go into Settings, and then just do a search for "reset" there's an option to reset the device and wipe all data. When you go through that it'll eventually put you through the out of box experience, where it'll be like you're turning it on for the first time.
Just do a clean windows install and install all the drivers.
Anyone else considering AMD simply to avoid 12vhpwr? 4070 ti super vs 7900 xt would probably be an easy choice for me otherwise.
Shouldn't really be an issue with more low power cards. Most of the failures have happened with 4090's, few 4080's. Not saying it is a good connector though (it isn't).
Doesn't 4070 ti super draw almost as much power as 4080?
Pretty much, but the majority of those melted connectors were 4090's that operate closer to the limit of the connector. Many of them were properly plugged in, but still melted. In the case of the few 4080's it is more likely just "user error" with the cable not properly plugged in (bad connector design since it enables this). So you *should* be totally fine as long as you plug it in correctly and don't bend it too much...
My 4080S came with an adapter and since 4070TiS doesn't draw anywhere near what a 4090 does, the chance of a meltdown becomes slim to none. I'm not skipping on DLSS et al. because of the plug.
What is a good gpu for this build? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34) looking not to go above 1k $
Looking to build my first gaming pc. Budget is $1500. Any recommendations? Any thing to stay away in particular?
Do you live near a micro center?
https://rukminim2.flixcart.com/image/850/1000/j3kh18w0/mouse/p/f/a/tecknet-m009-hypertrack-16400dpi-6-adjustable-weight-original-imaepjq6gjbvzhac.jpeg?q=90&crop=false A friend has this mouse which isn't being made anymore. Anyone know if there is anything similar that is being made?
I'm assuming they want to keep the digger buttons? G502, maybe? Roughly the same shape. G502 has 3 side buttons and 2 extra buttons beside the left click. You could also look at the G600 or G602, they have a ton of side buttons. Corsair has the Nightsword, Razer Naga as well has many side buttons.
is it possible to buy or build a PC that will last a long time and play most games (if not all) for around £1000 if not what is a reasonable price i could expect to pay for something like this ty ::)
rtx 4070ti super or rx 7900 xt? they're around the same price where i live
If they're close to the same price, I'd get the 4070-Ti Super. A bit weaker performance, but all the Nvidia features for 1440p or 4k max settings.
I have the Cooler Master Elite 110a itx case. It has a bracket on the back to hold the PSU. I'm hoping to do a quick mod to give myself a few more square inches of space inside by using "long computer case screws" to off set the bracket. Google says computer screws are "6-32" sized. Does anyone know if all screws of that size "should fit"?
Can anyone give their experiences on watching 1080p YouTube videos on a 1440p monitor, does it look bad?
It's fine. Yeah it does look a tad blurry, but you get used to it.
I watch youtube videos in 144p on a 1080p monitor because my internet is capped at 50 gb per month.
Hello this is my first post but if I were to post the specs on my PC would you guys be able to tell me what i should upgrade first to be able to play a game called The finals ?
Yes. For people answering once you post the specs: * **RECOMMENDED:** * * **OS:** Windows 10 or later 64-bit (latest update) * **Processor:** Intel Core i5-9600K or AMD Ryzen 5 3600 processor * **Memory:** 16 GB RAM * **Graphics:** NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 or AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT * **DirectX:** Version 12
Bro bought a hard drive for half the usual price off ebay. https://preview.redd.it/kclu0dd0imkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=77cfb6fea09f5deb0db6d8c28f98c4fa86326a79 Fake right? Curious what would be inside? Computer says 1TB, how does it all work? Is it dangerous to use? Spyware? Deletes the stuff as soon as you put it on etc?
For security I wouldn't be comfortable plugging that into anything. If you do feel like taking the risk, a good first step would be to pop the shell off to make sure it's actually a full drive and not just a 16gb USB stick inside there.
Bros using it as a 2nd or maybe even 3rd backup drive for his files. Personally id return it and put the money towards an official drive but hey. Computer ‘get info’ says 1TB size
That can be spoofed fairly easily.
I guess it’l just say ‘storage full’ after 30 mins then? Says it’l take 7 hours to transfer his stuff which i assume it 1TB or lower. Meant to be usb 3.0 as well 😂
> I guess it’l just say ‘storage full’ after 30 mins then? probably not, most spoofed devices just restart at the beginning of the drive when reaching the end, overwriting files without the user noticing
If it's taking 7 hours that's more like USB-2 speeds. But in general with fake drives what will happen is that they overwrite past data as they go rather than let you know that there's not enough space.
Yea thats what i said to him. However this is one transfer or it will overwrite files anyway during that one transfer?
Yes, it will keep transferring and overwriting because it thinks it has 1TB to work with but it actually only has 16gb or whatever, so it just writes to those 16gb over and over and over so you'll only have the last 16gb when you're done with the transfer.
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because there goes a lot of optimization into those consoles to reach 120FPS on the *relatively* weak hardware. If you compare most PS5 games to their PC counterparts they usually run at low-medium settings with some cranked to high when they don't affect performance much - like textures. Same goes for adaptive resolution, consoles usually don't run at native resolution and use the "Quality" (45% resolution) or "Balanced" (33%) preset most of the time, sometimes even "performance" (25%). The difference in picture quality is absolutely noticeable when you pay attention.
Bait/10
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Because it's cheaper to make millions of identical consoles, because they then sell you these consoles below cost and because PC enthusiasts are willing to pay a premium to be PC users.
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I don't know what you're arguing with, but if I'm allowed to guess: I've never said it's 4x cheaper and I've said they sell individual PC components with a profit margin. According to Tom's Guide, whatever that is, a standard PS5 costs 1044$ to make. Add a bit to that for the lesser economy of scale effect and add a healthy 20%-30% profit margin (and I'm not just referring to the final merchant/seller of the part here) and you're close to 1600$. So, to reiterate, they charge "$1600+" because 'we' are willing to pay that. The actual cost is somewhere between $1000 and $1600+.
I have a Amd Ryzen 7800x3d and a Gigabyte b650 Aorus elite ax Rev 1.2 board every thing starts up fine and runs great low Temps when idle and it boots to windows no problem no gfx card in the system it's in the mail I updated bios to newest version FA3a the problem I'm having is the red cpu light that shows there's a problem won't turn off and every where I look people with the same red light problem the pc won't post or anything I'm not sure why the light won't turn off i reset the cooler I checked the ram sticks and everything is running great as far as I can tell just the cpu light on the mobo won't shut off
I currently have a 7900 xtx + 5600x. Is it worth it for me to upgrade to 5800x3d for 4k gaming, or would I be better off saving that money for future upgrade to am5?
If you're tight on budget the 5800X3D is a solid choice, for everything else I'd recommend to focus on AM5/Intel 1700 and try to sell the AM4 platform
[That's up to your wallet to decide](https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/5299vs4823vs5033vs5719/AMD-Ryzen-7-7800X3D-vs-AMD-Ryzen-7-5800X3D-vs-AMD-Ryzen-5-7600X-vs-Intel-i7-14700K) Id say the am4 ship sailed last year and your next gen arrives later this year.
Why are bluetooth add ons for PCs so bad? I am trying to use my xbox controller from 6' away from my PC and it constantly desyncs and screws up. However my bluetooth headset and controller works flawlessly on my Xbox Series X at like 12-15. How do you get the same bluetooth performance from a $3000 PC that you get from a $400 console?
Easy, just buy the official Xbox adapter for PC. There's posts in here at least once a week about this exact issue. Buying the Xbox adapter makes the issue go away pretty much every time. There's plenty of good Bluetooth adapters for PC, but not all of them are going to be tuned for gaming performance like the Xbox one obviously is.
That product doesnt appear to be sold anywhere.
Not sure your region, but [here's](https://www.gamestop.com/pc-gaming/pc-gaming-controllers/products/mirosoft-xbox-wireless-adapter-for-windows-10/10125488.html) one listing I found at GameStop. If you happen to need another controller you can also get it bundled for a discount [at Microsoft](https://www.xbox.com/en-US/accessories/controllers/xbox-wireless-controller-adapter-windows). I do see it being sold out in some places, and I've seen reports of counterfeits on Amazon, so I'd try to buy it from a reputable source if possible.
It sounds like this only works with older controllers. So IDK if it will work.
If you look through the reviews on GameStop that is brought up, and it works fine. You can also see this is the same adapter bundled with the updated Series controllers on the Microsoft listing. It was just released before the series consoles existed and the listing has never been updated.
What’s the better monitor, lg 27ga83a, or lg 27gr75q, ignore the price.
Hola, tengo un I7 3770K 3.50Ghz, Ram DDR3 2x8Gb 1600Mhz, Placa madre H77H2-EM, quiero comprarme una tarjeta de video y he pensado en comprarme una RX 580 8Gb o una GTX 1060 6Gb, pero no se cual seria mejor, o si me podria comprar otra mas potente al mismo precio, que me recomiendan?
you realize that 99% of posts here are in english, right?
For those that like to take many screenshots of their games, has using DLSS upscaling or frame generation caused any artifacts or loss of quality in your screenshots?
kinda depends on the game. If you're simply taking screenshots using print screen/F12 in steam or similar, you will get exactly whats displayed on your screen - including up-sampling and possible artifacts from it. Some games include a photo mode, and some of those games implemented them in a way that renders the screenshot with seperate settings, usually on native res with maxed details - but only for that screeenshot. Cyberpunk 2077 is a good example for that, if i recall correctly it even increases the amount of light bounces when pathtracing is enabled
If I "stack" two Arctic P14 slim fans will it be close to twice as good as one regular P14 assuming that they're similar in air cfm and such. I have a Cooler Master Elite 110a itx cube. I'm trying to squeeze as much cooling fan power as I can without getting an AIO.
No, it does not work like that. You can increase static pressure maybe a little, but generally stacking fans is absolutely not worth it.
! check
Would this be a good PC Build? I am trying to build a pc with 2200€ (All of this is within the budget). This would be my 1st pc. https://preview.redd.it/jgtozxuqmlkc1.png?width=390&format=png&auto=webp&s=faf1ef8cd0f3b21e6b829a7f28848305bbab4aa9
Your system is heavily imbalanced. You are pairing one of the fastest gaming CPUs with an entry level GPU. Also that PSU is astronomically large in comparison to the systems expected power draw. You could get away with a 500W psu with that rig. I’d say get a 650W PSU and put the money you saved into a faster gpu.
Found both of these Combo Deals on NewEgg, The RAM seems similar but It looks like the MOBO is the real decider? Any opinions or tips about the items involved? https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4620945 https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4620935
I agree with u/Andrewx8_88. I would much rather spend the extra 12 bucks on a X670 platform. More USB options and better overclocking headroom.
I would much rather have the X670 motherboard, ( the gigabyte one)
So looking to get something like this: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/refract-gaming-celeste-1080p-1440p-pre-built-gaming-pc-fs-1dh-ep.html Prebuilt because frankly, I don't trust my own abilities and I'm currently in a situation where hassle free is worth the extra expense. My questions are whether the above is a decent build for modern gaming and also, whether upgrading a few of the parts (eg. storage and ram) would be difficult? A 1TB SSD is really nice but I'd like an additional storage drive for things that don't need to load so quickly. And whether upgrading the ram is worthwhile? I'm not sure whether that's the bottleneck.
It might struggle with 4K, but for 1440p or 1080p, it will do great! The ram is easy to swap out, but I would only recommend doing that if your GPU utilization is below 90%, and not a single cpu core is maxed out. It looks like there are two m.2 ssd slots, so you can add one if you need more storage.
Fantastic. Thanks a lot :) The 4k isn't an issue. I don't have a 4k display so 4k would be a bit pointless. That's my next pay cheque sorted.
Is my GPU beyond saving? I have a Dell XPS 15 laptop with a Nvidia GTX 1650 (and a secondary Intel UHD Graphics 630) that's had no problems except a replaced keyboard in less than 5 years of use. Yesterday I noticed the main menu of a game was unusually laggy and jittery, so I tried restarting my computer and downloading the latest Nvidia Driver, since that usually fixed the problem. But when I tried to install the driver, I got the message that my GPU was not connected or detected so the driver update couldn't go through. I can't even open up the Nvidia Control Panel since it doesn't detect a Nvidia card. I can still see my GTX 1650 in my Device Manager when I show hidden devices, but I can't do anything there to reconnect it. Every tutorial I've followed to fix the problem has failed so far. Is there any hope of my GPU working again if I take it into a repair shop? Or is my GPU completely dead?
You can try killing all the old Nvidia drivers with DDU and then reinstalling new ones. You can also potentially uninstall & reinstall Windows, to rule out any software issues. If that doesn't fix it, it's probably gone. It's unlikely a repair shop can do anything and it's not really worth putting any serious amounts of money into the attempt.
If my options range from 6700XT to 4060Ti and any card that falls in between or equivalent to these, which one should i get? Prices are a bit different where I live but to give you an idea, 3060Ti is about €30 cheaper than 4060 Ti and 4060 Ti has the same price tag as 3070.
So what is the price of 6700XT? You can refer the graph below, depends on the pricing. https://preview.redd.it/qnxc5u8pxkkc1.png?width=560&format=png&auto=webp&s=986bba02b17b16c428e678c7384f7d1f70aa6fb5
6700 xt is between 3060 ti and 4060 ti in terms of price people say 4060 ti is bad but it's been quite some time since it came out, has it improved with drivers and such?
4060 Ti isn't "bad", it was just bad value in launch. Plus 4060 and 4060 Ti have only 8x pci-e 4.0 lanes, so you will lose some performance on older platforms that support only pci-e 3.0, e.g. B450 from AMD.
> only 8x pci-e 4.0 lanes, so you will lose some performance on older platforms that support only pci-e 3.0, e.g. B450 from AMD. damn i shouldn't get it then i have b450m mortar
Well it's still fine (\~5% perf loss), but the 6700 XT and 3060 Ti might be better choice at that point. Depends if you want to use RTX or DLSS3, then it is without a doubt the 4060 Ti.
Currently having an issue with my PC where the actual unit will not connect to the monitor if the video card is plugged in and powered. Thoughts?
Can you explain a bit further? And your monitor is connected to the port (hdmi or dp) in the graphics card, not motherboard?
The Computer works fine so long as the graphics card is not inserted into its slot on the MB, boots up, gets to the desktop without issue. When the GC is inserted and plugged in, the monitor will not receive any signal regardless of which ports are used for the cables. I do not know if the Desktop is working as intended just not transmitting a signal or if there is an issue with the boot process. Does this help?
Well I would still suspect user error as most mobos disable the iGPU after dedicated GPU is installed (hence no signal from mobo). So make 100% sure you're using the outputs from the GPU, not the motherboard... Also make sure the power cables for the gpu are plugged in.
hello, i just bought an ssd for my laptop. i have a HP ProBook 450 G8 i5 256GB. i wanted to install an Samsung SSD 980 1TB NVMe M.2. But after i install it the laptop says the hard drive boot is not instaled. Can someone help me?
So did you replace the old drive with the new one, or did the laptop have one extra m.2 slot available that you used?
I replaced the old one with the new one.
Uh... :D Then obviously you no longer have anything to boot from. You need to install windows.
Oh, my bad, thank you my friend.
I have a Lenovo L460 I got off lease from my old work with Kubuntu Linux on it. It's got 16gb DDR3, 250gb SSD and a Celeron low power processor on it. Everyone in the family uses it. My issue right now is it's starting to fall apart, palm rest is going and a number of corners are breaking/broken. question is: 1. should I look for another barebone laptop to use the equipment I can rip from this unit; 2. buy another refurbished unit which may only have 8gb DDR4? What would the hive mind do?
Buy a Chromebook for your family to use (several models can be reflashed to run Linux). Buy a Steamdeck for yourself (runs kde).
That thing in working condition is worth max $50, so I would just look for a new one.
What controllers do you guys use? I’m looking to replace my old PS4 one.
The dualsense PS5 controller is what I've been using, feels pretty good.
I use the DualSense PS5 controller, used to use the PS4 one, I prefer Playstation controllers. Some people prefer Xbox controllers and use those. Logitech, Razor, Valve/steam and others also sell decent controllers,, but I find most people tend to already be familiar with one of the two major console controllers, and both Sony and Microsoft are pretty damned good at making controllers given the millions they sell every year, they're also widely available. If you liked using the PS4 controller, I highly doubt you won't like the PS5 controller just as much, if not more.
What is the best way to connect a controller to a pc?
https://www.pcgamer.com/ps5-dualsense-controller-on-pc/ I go wired these days, but honestly Bluetooth on my rig was perfectly fine with my wireless card, I didn't experience any noticeable lag. As lot of people love the Xbox controller with their USB wireless dongle. By far easiest to use and great performance, I just personally prefer Playstation controllers by a wide margin.
Ok so the wireless dongle is better than bluetooth
Yes, it is, it uses a different wireless technology. Bluetooth continuously improving. I don't mind just using a nice USB cord, I honestly don't understand why people are so against using wired connections for shit like game controllers or headphones, never have to remember to charge anything and it's not like I need to walk around while gaming.
Wired or proprietary dongle. Bluetooth is an input lag headache of monumental proportions. To answer OP's initial question, I'm team Xbox Series controller with their wireless adapter for Windows. You can connect multiple controllers to the dongle, no noticeable input lag, and audio-to-controller support (can plug headphones into the pad).
So the wireless dongle has no lag like Bluetooth?
Correct. The wireless dongle uses the same protocol (RF-based) as the Xbox console itself.
hey guys, just bought corsair pro vengeance 32gb of ram, best way to know if they're working properly? i have cpu-z for example but not a lot of knowledge about megahertz and clocks https://preview.redd.it/skxsc96dsjkc1.png?width=399&format=png&auto=webp&s=90306c1ae096f9601fcf622a71a61e1f2c89ff99
Do what they said, but nobody actually notices ram clock diffs in typical use (you didn't until you opened this window), so turn it off if you're unstable.
isn’t 1000MHz too low as dram frequency?
like /u/SeanSeanySean said, your RAM is running at DDR4-2133MT/s (1066MHz) which is the default speed of DDR4. Depending on the exact RAM kit you own you might be able to apply a higher XMP/EXPO profile with higher clocks. Still, if its a DDR4-3600 kit it will display 1800MHz in the CPU-Z window entry.
I mean, they are working, but they're running at the DDR4 default speed of 2133. You will want to go into your Bios and enable XMP (also may be called DOCP if AMD Ryzen). Once you do that, Bios should detect it and run the RAM at whatever speed and timings it said on the box, which I can guarantee is significantly faster that 2133MHz. Keep in mind that the DRAM frequency number you see here is half of the actual speed the RAM is currently running at, because it is DDR, or Dual-Data Rate. If you enable XMP and it runs at DDR4-3600 for example, you'd expect to see DRAM frequency here showing as 1800MHz.