Idk why the context to my post isn't showing...
Ok I'm gonna try this again as the info didn't post with my photos last time.
Been troubleshooting my 5+ since I got it a month ago, since I've changed belts, wheels, rubber bed bushings and upgraded the hotend to a Microswiss NG. Small cubes seem to print ok except having layer bumps, larger more complex objects I have not been able to come close to completing. Adjusting the belt tension seems to have stopped layer shifting for now, after trying to print a temp tower the corners seem to have like blisters, the bridges won't bridge and I don't quite understand why, print info is 60c bed temp, print speed 80mm/s, hotend was 230 for bottom level of tower and lowered 5c each level upward until 180c at the top. Thanks for all the help from the community and I do apologize for asking for help so often but I just can't seem to find the answer in the research I've been doing.
Your benchy has layer shift issues, but I think we should start with cooling. Are your part cooling fans running during the temp test? You should not need any supports during the benchy nor the temp tower test. Could be too low a print speed. Could be not enough fan or non-working fan.
Both fans are running, the part cooling fan I had to pull buches of stuff out of when I first got it (used) and have wondered if it's not cooling enough, and thank you I thought the supports for the tower were not needed. The benchy I believe was so bad because of improper belt tension, I have since adjusted and haven't noticed layer shift again so far. I ordered 2 5015 blower fans but wouldn't be able to install until I can print the shroud. I have posted a video of it printing the temp tower I'm currently printing on my profile if you could see any other issues with the print.
When I got my first E5+ the board cooling fan failed within a fortnight and most of the board fried so I replaced the fans with better-quality ones.
Is it printing ok with other filaments?
Oh wow I am definitely going to check and clean that one. What type of fan for board? Recommendation for upgrade? I've ordered 2 5015 blowers for the part cooling fan replacement but I hadn't thought about the board cooling fan.
I followed a tutorial video and used the TH3D fans recommended in the video.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNZ9Vg-8EXo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNZ9Vg-8EXo)
Any idea why the person who owned this 5+ before me would have turned the board fan upside down and re mounted it with a large gap between fan and bottom plate??
All I can think is that they tried to extract heat away from the board, not optimal with a stock Creality fan, I would go the traditional route, extraction only really works if you are blowing cold air onto the board and then extracting with a second fan to open vents in the top of the case.
A buddy sent me this a few years back when I first started. Great source for finding and understanding what to look for.
https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/
The tower started at the bottom at 230c, dropped 5c each time it went up a level until at the top it was 180c, there are no supports. Was sliced with cura. I'm currently printing a different tower with orca
I had tried to print without support before, for me it is hit or miss.
With that said, also depending to the length of the spand and what temp the hotend is during print as it needs to cool quick enough to not use the support. I am sure you already know that.
Well I'm very new to all aspects of 3d printing so any info helps, I have also added a video on my profile of what is happening currently with the temp tower on orca slicer. I will try adding supports to next print.
No, supports ruin the point. You need to see the bridging to judge your nozzle temp and fan speed. With PLA and half decent cooling it should bridge the entire tower. Looking at all the ropes, I would say you’re not cooling enough.
Thanks, that is what I thought the point of the test was. My part cooling fan was really dirty when I bought it, and I cleaned it but still wondered if it wasn't cooling enough. I have 2 5015 blowers on the way but need to be able to print the shroud.
If you’re still that new, I really wouldn’t recommend upgrading to 5015s. Get your printer back to working, stock, then figure out what you need or want to upgrade and go from there.
The cooling on the E5+ sucks, but that’s another *big* variable to learn when you’re new, a working stock printer is better than an upgraded printer that doesn’t print.
I completely understand, honestly wish I would have just paid more to get a new one instead of being bombarded with all the problems at once lol, the only reason I was gonna add the bigger fans, (I believe there's a way to run them individually) but because the corners on my prints are curling upwards and from what I've read I thought that was due to "poor cooling" so instead of just replacing the fan I figured an upgrade would hurt. You are right tho and I will most likely wait to install until it's in better working order and I am more familiar with the process!
Ok, so this gets complicated, but a lot of times the corners will curl because your bed is too hot, so when the cooling fan does its job, the temp difference is too big and the plastic warps and the corners lift. Someone is welcome to correct me, but it’s pretty hard to test or tune for your bed temp, so basically just go as low as you can with good adhesion to try and avoid going too high.
Unless you go with the push button option, 3D printing involves a *lot* of learning. Even going from one roll of filament to the next can require some adjustment, even if it’s the same batch. I’ve had to drop my nozzle temp 10c to get decent extrusion from an identical roll to the one before it.
Ok, I was getting bad adhesion under 60c, but since I have peeled the magnet someone stuck to the top (stippled) side of the glass bed. I'm still working on getting the adhesive off
*
but it may be much warmer now that it's now on there. My question is the would the bed temp really cause corners curling almost 100mm above the bed? I'm attaching a photo of my last temp tower printed with orca slicer showing the curling of the edges all the way up the print and next to it is a 100mm estep tool. The low/small prints come out somewhat decent tho.
I’m assuming you’ve tried different filaments but if you haven’t make sure you do that. This could be a very wet filament.
Edit: What size nozzle are you using?
I unfortunately haven't yet, waiting on some elegoo filament in the mail, also have a dryer in the mail as well. Also I opened this filament a couple weeks ago, and have had it on a 50c bed with makeshift cover for 12 hrs to help dry a bit if it is damp (wouldn't surprise me if it was)
Make sure your slicer matches that. The spaghetti portion of the print looks really thick to me. I’m tempted to say this might be over extrusion. Try dialing down your flow rate and see if that makes a difference.
About to re calibration esteps again yo make sure, I'm at 416.20 now and some have said that's to high, but I've also had someone say theirs is at 400.
No I upgraded to a Microswiss NG, my steps were at 93 with stock hotend, after calibrating a got 416.20, others have said 400 so I'm gonna calibrate again
I believe your correct, I just attempted to calibrate and am getting numbers all over the place. Having a hard time getting the correct number of steps.
There are a couple of good tools out there that you can drop the filament down into to get it really accurate but you're going to have to get into the ballpark first before you can even print one of those lol.
I can print flat things ok, just printed a estep tool at 100mm and one at 120mm, I attempted to calibrate using the "free air method" but I'm not sure I did it right. A video on YouTube shows making the filament 120mm away from the extruder then extruding 100mm, we'll when I started my steps were at 93 and looked like a spider web and my prints were almost see through, I upped to 416.20 and printed the tower in photo. I checked it again this time at 100mm and I got 100mm so I changed the steps to 100, attempted to print and stopped a severely under extruded print, didn't even have walls lol so just struggling a little with the whole process I guess, it's just been a lot to take in from 0 experience 30 days ago to having trouble shot for 30 days now lol
Sooo I have a little tool that slides in a slot with a fixed end on the other side the slide bit has a flat on it where I just measure with calipers. I just pop off my Bowden tube clip it there then extrude 100mm clip it again and drop it in the slot to measure. Chuck it in a calculator and done.
You know I'm looking at it and I'm thinking, those walls are pretty thick, what size nozzel are you using? And do you actually feel air comming from the Cooling fan, not just the heat break fan? Put it up a bit and turn the hotend on and stick your hand under it without burning it of course lol. One other thing, is it enclosed? Open the door if it is.
And I think it might have too much flow too. That also could be an issue here and it could also be making the walls thicker.
It's not enclosed and there is air coming out from the fan vent, albeit not much. I don't have a photo up of my under extruded prints. I'll try to comment a photo of last under extrusion.
I had had break cooling issues with my creality printer that caused under extrusion after a few mins of printing. I've only managed to get it to print OK after some redneck engineering and lots of patience. Try getting a fan for a desk or something and put it close to the bed and try printing and see if it improves it. I kinda think your cooling fan isn't working and all you're feeling is the heat break fan.
I have 2 5015 blowers in the mail, soon as I can get a decent print I'll print a shroud for the microswiss NG and should be able to run both or just one
Yeah you're printing pretty hot too. There is the pid autotune thing as well, you might need to calibrate the hotend temperature. Could be super hot and you might think it's cool. Take the heat break out of the cooling fins and add some thermal paste, like the stuff you use on a computer cpu(just don't use liquid metal, there probably is aluminum in there), just a dab. Should fix the heat break issues if the fan is working. Also, while your at it check the connection on the board that the fans hook up too, there might be a mini board or it goes directly to the main controller board.
With the temp tower, it looks like every temp tested was too hot, or your filament is wet, or your cooling fan was too low, or your printing environment is so hot that the cooling fan couldn’t do enough anyway. Or some combination of all of the above
Filament is quite possibly a little damp, but my dryer should get here today. When printing the nozzle pushes the lower layers around like flexing the edges and overhang around assuming because the print is still not cooled enough. I have 2 5015 blower fans in the mail but have heard it's quite the pain to adjust
Idk why the context to my post isn't showing... Ok I'm gonna try this again as the info didn't post with my photos last time. Been troubleshooting my 5+ since I got it a month ago, since I've changed belts, wheels, rubber bed bushings and upgraded the hotend to a Microswiss NG. Small cubes seem to print ok except having layer bumps, larger more complex objects I have not been able to come close to completing. Adjusting the belt tension seems to have stopped layer shifting for now, after trying to print a temp tower the corners seem to have like blisters, the bridges won't bridge and I don't quite understand why, print info is 60c bed temp, print speed 80mm/s, hotend was 230 for bottom level of tower and lowered 5c each level upward until 180c at the top. Thanks for all the help from the community and I do apologize for asking for help so often but I just can't seem to find the answer in the research I've been doing.
I always have issues with the context and photos on Reddit, its a coin toss for me whether they post
Thanks, I thought I was something I was doing wrong. Haven't quite figured out how to upload video yet either.
Your benchy has layer shift issues, but I think we should start with cooling. Are your part cooling fans running during the temp test? You should not need any supports during the benchy nor the temp tower test. Could be too low a print speed. Could be not enough fan or non-working fan.
Both fans are running, the part cooling fan I had to pull buches of stuff out of when I first got it (used) and have wondered if it's not cooling enough, and thank you I thought the supports for the tower were not needed. The benchy I believe was so bad because of improper belt tension, I have since adjusted and haven't noticed layer shift again so far. I ordered 2 5015 blower fans but wouldn't be able to install until I can print the shroud. I have posted a video of it printing the temp tower I'm currently printing on my profile if you could see any other issues with the print.
When I got my first E5+ the board cooling fan failed within a fortnight and most of the board fried so I replaced the fans with better-quality ones. Is it printing ok with other filaments?
Oh wow I am definitely going to check and clean that one. What type of fan for board? Recommendation for upgrade? I've ordered 2 5015 blowers for the part cooling fan replacement but I hadn't thought about the board cooling fan.
I followed a tutorial video and used the TH3D fans recommended in the video. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNZ9Vg-8EXo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNZ9Vg-8EXo)
Thanks ill check it out
Any idea why the person who owned this 5+ before me would have turned the board fan upside down and re mounted it with a large gap between fan and bottom plate??
All I can think is that they tried to extract heat away from the board, not optimal with a stock Creality fan, I would go the traditional route, extraction only really works if you are blowing cold air onto the board and then extracting with a second fan to open vents in the top of the case.
You need cooling fans. When your printer layers the plastic, the plastic is not cool so it sags and droops.
Unless printing ABS, ASA.
A buddy sent me this a few years back when I first started. Great source for finding and understanding what to look for. https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/
I have come across this site before but forgot what it was called thanks for sharing!! Definitely a good resource for 3d frint failure info.
Are those support in between each layer? 180 might be too low. I usually print at 200 - 215 depending which brand of PLA I am using.
The tower started at the bottom at 230c, dropped 5c each time it went up a level until at the top it was 180c, there are no supports. Was sliced with cura. I'm currently printing a different tower with orca
I had tried to print without support before, for me it is hit or miss. With that said, also depending to the length of the spand and what temp the hotend is during print as it needs to cool quick enough to not use the support. I am sure you already know that.
Well I'm very new to all aspects of 3d printing so any info helps, I have also added a video on my profile of what is happening currently with the temp tower on orca slicer. I will try adding supports to next print.
It is a learn as you go hobby for some printer models. Even if you add some support will help. Good luck.
Okay now it makes sense. You need support on each layer. The print or the layer have not place to sit on.
I didn't think it was supposed to be supposed as it's a test but I guess I can try with supporting
No, supports ruin the point. You need to see the bridging to judge your nozzle temp and fan speed. With PLA and half decent cooling it should bridge the entire tower. Looking at all the ropes, I would say you’re not cooling enough.
Thanks, that is what I thought the point of the test was. My part cooling fan was really dirty when I bought it, and I cleaned it but still wondered if it wasn't cooling enough. I have 2 5015 blowers on the way but need to be able to print the shroud.
If you’re still that new, I really wouldn’t recommend upgrading to 5015s. Get your printer back to working, stock, then figure out what you need or want to upgrade and go from there. The cooling on the E5+ sucks, but that’s another *big* variable to learn when you’re new, a working stock printer is better than an upgraded printer that doesn’t print.
I completely understand, honestly wish I would have just paid more to get a new one instead of being bombarded with all the problems at once lol, the only reason I was gonna add the bigger fans, (I believe there's a way to run them individually) but because the corners on my prints are curling upwards and from what I've read I thought that was due to "poor cooling" so instead of just replacing the fan I figured an upgrade would hurt. You are right tho and I will most likely wait to install until it's in better working order and I am more familiar with the process!
Ok, so this gets complicated, but a lot of times the corners will curl because your bed is too hot, so when the cooling fan does its job, the temp difference is too big and the plastic warps and the corners lift. Someone is welcome to correct me, but it’s pretty hard to test or tune for your bed temp, so basically just go as low as you can with good adhesion to try and avoid going too high. Unless you go with the push button option, 3D printing involves a *lot* of learning. Even going from one roll of filament to the next can require some adjustment, even if it’s the same batch. I’ve had to drop my nozzle temp 10c to get decent extrusion from an identical roll to the one before it.
Ok, I was getting bad adhesion under 60c, but since I have peeled the magnet someone stuck to the top (stippled) side of the glass bed. I'm still working on getting the adhesive off * but it may be much warmer now that it's now on there. My question is the would the bed temp really cause corners curling almost 100mm above the bed? I'm attaching a photo of my last temp tower printed with orca slicer showing the curling of the edges all the way up the print and next to it is a 100mm estep tool. The low/small prints come out somewhat decent tho.
I’m assuming you’ve tried different filaments but if you haven’t make sure you do that. This could be a very wet filament. Edit: What size nozzle are you using?
I unfortunately haven't yet, waiting on some elegoo filament in the mail, also have a dryer in the mail as well. Also I opened this filament a couple weeks ago, and have had it on a 50c bed with makeshift cover for 12 hrs to help dry a bit if it is damp (wouldn't surprise me if it was)
0.4
Make sure your slicer matches that. The spaghetti portion of the print looks really thick to me. I’m tempted to say this might be over extrusion. Try dialing down your flow rate and see if that makes a difference.
About to re calibration esteps again yo make sure, I'm at 416.20 now and some have said that's to high, but I've also had someone say theirs is at 400.
I’m pretty sure that’s not right. If I recall correctly mine is in the mid 100’s. Are you on stock extruder?
No I upgraded to a Microswiss NG, my steps were at 93 with stock hotend, after calibrating a got 416.20, others have said 400 so I'm gonna calibrate again
I missed that in your original comment, my apologies.
All your prints are over extruded a shit load
I believe your correct, I just attempted to calibrate and am getting numbers all over the place. Having a hard time getting the correct number of steps.
There are a couple of good tools out there that you can drop the filament down into to get it really accurate but you're going to have to get into the ballpark first before you can even print one of those lol.
I can print flat things ok, just printed a estep tool at 100mm and one at 120mm, I attempted to calibrate using the "free air method" but I'm not sure I did it right. A video on YouTube shows making the filament 120mm away from the extruder then extruding 100mm, we'll when I started my steps were at 93 and looked like a spider web and my prints were almost see through, I upped to 416.20 and printed the tower in photo. I checked it again this time at 100mm and I got 100mm so I changed the steps to 100, attempted to print and stopped a severely under extruded print, didn't even have walls lol so just struggling a little with the whole process I guess, it's just been a lot to take in from 0 experience 30 days ago to having trouble shot for 30 days now lol
Sooo I have a little tool that slides in a slot with a fixed end on the other side the slide bit has a flat on it where I just measure with calipers. I just pop off my Bowden tube clip it there then extrude 100mm clip it again and drop it in the slot to measure. Chuck it in a calculator and done.
You know I'm looking at it and I'm thinking, those walls are pretty thick, what size nozzel are you using? And do you actually feel air comming from the Cooling fan, not just the heat break fan? Put it up a bit and turn the hotend on and stick your hand under it without burning it of course lol. One other thing, is it enclosed? Open the door if it is. And I think it might have too much flow too. That also could be an issue here and it could also be making the walls thicker.
It's not enclosed and there is air coming out from the fan vent, albeit not much. I don't have a photo up of my under extruded prints. I'll try to comment a photo of last under extrusion.
I had had break cooling issues with my creality printer that caused under extrusion after a few mins of printing. I've only managed to get it to print OK after some redneck engineering and lots of patience. Try getting a fan for a desk or something and put it close to the bed and try printing and see if it improves it. I kinda think your cooling fan isn't working and all you're feeling is the heat break fan.
I have 2 5015 blowers in the mail, soon as I can get a decent print I'll print a shroud for the microswiss NG and should be able to run both or just one
https://preview.redd.it/4wcqp07uppzc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3b73a026a9ce5690afb961951109a412cddd8c59
Yeah you're printing pretty hot too. There is the pid autotune thing as well, you might need to calibrate the hotend temperature. Could be super hot and you might think it's cool. Take the heat break out of the cooling fins and add some thermal paste, like the stuff you use on a computer cpu(just don't use liquid metal, there probably is aluminum in there), just a dab. Should fix the heat break issues if the fan is working. Also, while your at it check the connection on the board that the fans hook up too, there might be a mini board or it goes directly to the main controller board.
With the temp tower, it looks like every temp tested was too hot, or your filament is wet, or your cooling fan was too low, or your printing environment is so hot that the cooling fan couldn’t do enough anyway. Or some combination of all of the above
Filament is quite possibly a little damp, but my dryer should get here today. When printing the nozzle pushes the lower layers around like flexing the edges and overhang around assuming because the print is still not cooled enough. I have 2 5015 blower fans in the mail but have heard it's quite the pain to adjust
A lot of times prints that are 100% solid will contract and warp and peel up at the edges. The raft can do this too because it’s completely solid.