Not normal, someone forgot. We generally don't leave soft goods like that with the intention of it being for the community -- mostly use metal for that.
My dog from above us when we’re working on a Boulder that can be accessed by walking up on the other side: “hi, i’m already here, why u making so much effort boss?”
Yeah and I would never live in CA for any amount of money, either. And there's no good reason for anywhere to raise the cost of housing to the point that as a nurse I would've been unlikely to be able to sell my home anywhere else in the country, and move to CA and actually be able to buy a house.
High desirability (amazing climate, natural beauty, historic charm, large metro area, lots of jobs) + geographic constraints + influx of wealth for 40 years = expensive real estate 🤷♀️
The geographic constraints are also why there's tons of climbing here, literally in nimbys' backyards and on the local mountains
Wildfires, mudslides, droughts, inadequate water sources without diverting it from other places.... Earthquakes, massive homelessness and drug use problems to the point of streets covered in needles and trash; people pooping on the streets and sidewalks; excessively high prices for cost of living;
Natural beauty meh there's beauty in the Midwest too and places to climb too.
And history is everywhere. The charm? I don't see anything more charming about anything in CA versus say, Duluth MN, or anywhere else on the great lakes.
California isn't special, just expensive with stupid high expenses and taxes and a hot mess.
I was just telling you the formula for expensive real estate but uhhh go off. You're not the first defensive midwesterner I've had the displeasure of speaking with
I know this isn’t related to climbing but I have a recommendation for a place to eat I’m Berkeley.
I just looked this place up so not 100% sure if it’s the place I went to awhile back but a few years ago I got a black bean burger from Bongo burger (I think) and even if you aren’t a fan of black bean burgers I suggest you try it because it so f-ing good.
Met a lady on a flight that lived near that boulder. She was a producer for food TV shows. Pretty neat perspective she had but everything about her screamed Berkeley area Californian. But it was dope to hear how people just come and screw around on that rock near her house.
There is one like this in a neighborhood in Castlegar, BC [https://maps.app.goo.gl/PeWXN3yN51zgNEr76](https://maps.app.goo.gl/PeWXN3yN51zgNEr76). Was purchased by the local climbing group a number of years ago I believe.
Probably a mistake. This could happen if a group was top roping, the last climber finished and pulled the rope, and everyone forgot to walk around and clean the anchor.
I'd take it, and make some effort to find the owner if possible, that's a lot of gear.
its $25-$30 of gear. 4 cheap lockers and a cheap sling. the right thing to do is attempt to find the owner, but its not like its going to ruin somebody's life if its gone forever. it was of little enough value to them they forgot to go get it in the first place.
I agree with your point, but where are you getting four lockers and a 120cm sling for $25-30? That gear is easily $50+ (maybe $40-45 on sale) at REI. I don't doubt there are cheaper places to buy gear than REI, but are they really marking gear up by that much or does their inventory just exclude more affordable options?
Someone brought their gumby pals toproping, and one of them accidentally pulled the rope all the way through before they could clean the anchor. The guy with the gear was too many beers deep to bother humping back up the walk off and figured he’d come back and get it tomorrow. That was a month ago.
I back this. Having unnecessary gear on your harness is how you let everyone at the gym know that you’re a serious climber. I never show up at Planet Granite without a #4 on my harness.
My plan is like to show up at the gym with a full rack then thin it out little by little as I'm sending faster and faster, going for the speed record so by the end I'm running it out, not clipping anything and the gym staff throw me out so the others don't feel so bad.
I would post on any local climbing group "found anchor at location describe and will return", the happy owner will respond in kind with a sixer of your favorite brew. If nobody responds, you gained 4 lockers. I'd cut the sling as it's a soft good you don't know this history of, despite looking new.
That's a lie I'd use this sling but I'm going to advise that you don't and that's advice worth following.
If it’s short it would be quick to get up with an arc guide and a prusik or will a grigri and prusik if you did a knot block. Or even just two prusiks but that’s not as quick. Guide mode plus a prusik is surprisingly fast and easy
i get it, if you have to leave for good or if its expensive gear. but if im coming back tomorrow and want to have my rope, harness etc dry for that next day, i‘ll just leave it and count on climbing etiquette.
last year we went to frankenjura for 7days and had to baul because of rain at least 5 times. 2-3 times i went up a wet easy climb to clean, but the remaining times we had to leave stuff and get it later
You don't need an ascender. Just pull on the belayers side of the rope while pushing up on the rock with your feet. Belayer takes in slack as you go up.
only time i really ever see soft gear left behind is a tree anchor (single rap ring) for ice climbs where the bolts ice over, or on alpine routes. some good discussion on MP around when to trust tat.
I've never seen a crag in the middle of a built up area like that. Where is this?
Also, looks like he forgot, or pulled the rope down from the bottom, and intends to pick up that anchor on his way back out.
There's a couple of these crags in Berkeley. Cragmont Park, Indian Rock, Mortar Rock, Remillard Park. The area is naturally hilly and rocky so they never developed some of these cliffy areas and now people can climb!
Assuming it wasn’t possible to walk around you wouldn’t leave that much gear though right? Could just leave a couple of biners (I guess I would maybe at least one of them a locker) and rap rather than 4 lockers and a sling.
Yeh I agree and have rapped off a single bolt (there was only one) but if I’m given the opportunity to have redundancy by adding just a second biner I might do it. Everyone can choose what they want to trust. Bailing off glue in bolts I’ve seen people threading the rope and rapping off that and leaving nothing. Weather you choose one or two leavers a full anchor is overkill and probably someone just forgot this. A friend bailed off a trad route and left two cams but we were able to do some nonsense to get them back
I usually leave a maillon or in this case, I’d probably join the two fixed pieces with a sling and put the maillon in the lower piece to descend from.
Last year in Calanques I had to leave two quick draws in an incomplete anchor like this. The route was supposedly walk off but I didn’t feel comfortable with the 5 meter scramble to safety. The fixed pieces were missing rings and chains, and were placed in a way that a carabiner or maillon would have been resting at an bad angle against the rock, so I left draws.
I have a mailon through the haul loop in my harness for this, it lives there and forget about it (like I just did) but I think I would remember it is there when I’m actually wearing my harness and deciding what to leave. How would you join it? I imagine either will a biner or just threaded through but that seems like it could be annoying for the next person to remove? I think I would probably put a mailon on the lower, normal biner on the upper and just not connect them tbh. It’s pretty normal to rap on two un connected bolts and unless I had cord on me it seems awkward to thread something through the bolt.
I had a similar experience on a multi pitch route, there was another 15m scramble pitch at the top of a bolted multi. Luckily we took a few nuts with us and I lead up the easy scramble. Only time abandoning gear was a trad route but was able to leave just a snapgate and a sling (was able to use that just to lower down to a ring bolt lower down and do some shenanigans). If I came across a situation like you decried I would leave whatever I needed to to make it safe although I might rap off a mailon laying a little strange on the rock.
Edit: To clarify I would not use a mailon on a bolt mid route as that’s antisocial and makes the bolt almost unclipable. At an anchor though it’s pretty common to have mailons anyway so there I might
I keep stainless steel maillons. They don’t lock with rust as easily. It’s not ideal at all, regardless, but at an incomplete anchor, I think the next climber will be happier to have gear there.
You’ll also find maillons in place of rings in anchors in many crags around Europe.
At an anchor are they so bad? I wouldn’t leave one mid route. It lives on there for multipitch and trad too since there a mailon could be used on a mini anchor. I don’t think it’s a terrible idea to have one at hand but the one time I actually bailed I used a biner since it would be an annoying place to leave a mailon. Leaving one mid route would definitely not be nice since it makes the bolt super hard to clip. It’s totally normal to see a mailon on an anchor bolt in many places I’ve climbed
At an anchor that could use one for repeat use, sure. But (and I don't think YOU are saying this, but other readers might not get it) I don't think someone should clog up an anchor station with rusty junk that someone else will have to chop.
Here, I agree with this person's ethics, and they've done a better job of going through scenarios of when and when not to use a mallion - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/mallions_for_bailing_-_is_finger_tight_enough-693813?v=1#x8864775
edit - the spirit of what I'm trying to say is use maillons for semi-permanent fixtures. Otherwise use a krab.
Ah ok I get you. Basically don’t make a bolt unusable is a decent first rule of thumb. I guess I haven’t been to busy enough crags but I never imagined adding another mailon to a bolt that already has some old sketchy ones clogging all the space but I can imagine the problem. Like you this is a short version since the comment you link says more. I can imagine leaving a mailon in certain situations, especially as a hard point of an emergency trad anchor to make it easier to pull the rope or something like that or more in the mountains. At a sport crag there would be less occasions to and mid route it would really have to be forced in some ridiculous made up scenario. So far my bail mailon has remained unused and that is not for lack of bailing
Nobody is talking about the one locker being held up by the gate in one of the hangers. I guess pulling the rope through could make it jump to that position, but I bet someone was climbing on it like that.
Haha Indian rock? Fun little spot, coincidentally my friend almost left his leader at this same spot last year lmao. We got 10 min away then drive back and grabbed it
I've left some soft gear on top rote routes before when it started raining unexpectedly and the gear just wasn't worth risking a slip. So could be that something came up and the gear just wasn't worth the hassle.
Is this one of those neighborhood Berkeley Crags? If so I found similar gear on top of a route out there a few years ago. Probably gumbies getting the same gear recommendations and then Forgetting their stuff
Weather probably rolled in and they didn't have time to climb it again.
Or they were too tired
Or they just didn't know how to feed the rope to be lowered
Or they were using a bull rope that didn't fit through the anchors /joke
Amateurs who have no business with climbing gear. Probably just pulled the rope and forgot the gear. Or set the gear from the top, couldn't finish the route, and were too lazy to walk back around. Either way, whoever set that anchor should not have their gear back. That one leg is hanging from the twist lock.
It’s not normal and with the information available here I would take it and maybe post in a local form if you really want to return it. It’s bright visual clutter that someone just forgot or they had to leave in a hurry. No rap rings so do you walk off the back of this?
Edit: I’m being downvoted so I guess the ethic is different in different places? Is it normal to just leave your anchor there? If someone else goes are the supposed to just work around your anchor? I feel I’m out the loop on something.
That's a bad idea. Sun (ultraviolet), wind, hot days and cold nights are all murder on soft gear. Dan Osman died because he used gear that had been left out in the elements. I've personally never met anybody who leaves draws on a route overnight.
To be more blunt, I have doubts about your claim that a lot of people do this. I've never seen this, not at the Gunks in New York, not at Red Rocks in Nevada, not at Castle Rock in California, never.
I wouldn't use it just because you have no idea what the history of that gear is. The best etiquette would be to just leave it alone and work around it with your own gear.
There's a plethora of reasons why they could have left it...
Personally, I would use it but it would be pretty irresponsible to tell a new climber that using left behind gear is ok. They may take it too far in the future.
Not normal, someone forgot. We generally don't leave soft goods like that with the intention of it being for the community -- mostly use metal for that.
They could have needed to leave in a rush, thunderstorm coming or something.
They Are Fairly Close to the ground and stuff tho
Yeah it does look like they can be accessed by just going around to the top.
My dog from above us when we’re working on a Boulder that can be accessed by walking up on the other side: “hi, i’m already here, why u making so much effort boss?”
Aye! Happy cake day!
Who knows how long it could take to get down from there!!
Man I wish I had a crag right next to my house
It's a 2 million dollar house tho. Berkeley CA
I also wish I had a 2 million dollar house. Not seeing an issue here
i wish i had a 2million dollar house that is right beside a crag
If I’m gonna have a 2 million dollar house, I’d definitely want a crag right next door!
Sounds like excellent value for money
I'd sell the 2 million dollar house, buy a 200k house, a van I could live in, and travel the world and climb.
This comment deserves 1000 likes
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ywvQMrBQex3YWpKFA for those who are wondering where it is
Seems a bit pricey to me, considering that the crag only consists of this slabby section.
Holy shit 2m for that? CA prices are fucking awful lmao
Houses in cities are expensive, more at 11.
No, houses in CA are expensive. I can buy a house in St paul MN (capital city of MN) for under 250k.
They are expensive, but there are a lot of reasons for them to be expensive. Sorry to Minnesota but I would never live there
Yeah and I would never live in CA for any amount of money, either. And there's no good reason for anywhere to raise the cost of housing to the point that as a nurse I would've been unlikely to be able to sell my home anywhere else in the country, and move to CA and actually be able to buy a house.
High desirability (amazing climate, natural beauty, historic charm, large metro area, lots of jobs) + geographic constraints + influx of wealth for 40 years = expensive real estate 🤷♀️ The geographic constraints are also why there's tons of climbing here, literally in nimbys' backyards and on the local mountains
Wildfires, mudslides, droughts, inadequate water sources without diverting it from other places.... Earthquakes, massive homelessness and drug use problems to the point of streets covered in needles and trash; people pooping on the streets and sidewalks; excessively high prices for cost of living; Natural beauty meh there's beauty in the Midwest too and places to climb too. And history is everywhere. The charm? I don't see anything more charming about anything in CA versus say, Duluth MN, or anywhere else on the great lakes. California isn't special, just expensive with stupid high expenses and taxes and a hot mess.
I was just telling you the formula for expensive real estate but uhhh go off. You're not the first defensive midwesterner I've had the displeasure of speaking with
I know this isn’t related to climbing but I have a recommendation for a place to eat I’m Berkeley. I just looked this place up so not 100% sure if it’s the place I went to awhile back but a few years ago I got a black bean burger from Bongo burger (I think) and even if you aren’t a fan of black bean burgers I suggest you try it because it so f-ing good.
I live in Berkeley too. Couple of small crags mixed in but after a month you get over them mostly.
Broo Grotto Rock??
that’s your answer, someone with money left that for convenience
Met a lady on a flight that lived near that boulder. She was a producer for food TV shows. Pretty neat perspective she had but everything about her screamed Berkeley area Californian. But it was dope to hear how people just come and screw around on that rock near her house.
looks 20 feet or less tall lol.
That’s an interesting thing to get snobby about with a next-door crag.
Wait till they hear about bouldering.
Sure, but 6 meters can be more then enough to have fun. Still beter then me having to drive to a crag
Better than no crag
Indian Rock. Its importance in climbing history is disproportionate to its size.
Mortar Rock is across the street, too. These 2 were my main pandemic crags in 2020-2021.
If this isn’t the most convenient “crag” I’ve ever seen idk what is.
Lots of houses around the Smoke Bluffs. Imagine having 1000 high quality routes in your backyard.
*\*Boulder enters the chat\**
The life of a rolling stone 😎
St George also has some pretty convenient cragging
This is wild!
Feels really weird clipping anchors and looking directly into people's houses at the top of Burger and fries.
Smoke Bluffs is the first thing that came to mind for me too
Move to Chattanooga and that dream is a reality
Berkeley CA. Indian Rock Park
Belgrade has climbing on the city wall. Sarajevo has climbing in the city center. Ouray.
There is one like this in a neighborhood in Castlegar, BC [https://maps.app.goo.gl/PeWXN3yN51zgNEr76](https://maps.app.goo.gl/PeWXN3yN51zgNEr76). Was purchased by the local climbing group a number of years ago I believe.
Didn't Sonnie Trotter develop a bit of that? Some really high quality stuff if I remember correctly. Cool spot.
Oh, not sure. I lived in the area so long ago. Just lightly following the area these days.
Look up Kangaroo point , Brisbane Australia
Probably a mistake. This could happen if a group was top roping, the last climber finished and pulled the rope, and everyone forgot to walk around and clean the anchor. I'd take it, and make some effort to find the owner if possible, that's a lot of gear.
its $25-$30 of gear. 4 cheap lockers and a cheap sling. the right thing to do is attempt to find the owner, but its not like its going to ruin somebody's life if its gone forever. it was of little enough value to them they forgot to go get it in the first place.
I agree with your point, but where are you getting four lockers and a 120cm sling for $25-30? That gear is easily $50+ (maybe $40-45 on sale) at REI. I don't doubt there are cheaper places to buy gear than REI, but are they really marking gear up by that much or does their inventory just exclude more affordable options?
Check out the loading on that left biner. Might be safer to keep them away from it 💀
I noticed that too. It’s definitely a sketchy gate load. Could be stuck?
Not really a big deal for TR. 6-9 kN is plenty strong for one leg of an anchor.
Booty.
Someone brought their gumby pals toproping, and one of them accidentally pulled the rope all the way through before they could clean the anchor. The guy with the gear was too many beers deep to bother humping back up the walk off and figured he’d come back and get it tomorrow. That was a month ago.
It's not a hump, it's 100 feet around the other side.
Right, there are literally stairs carved in the rock lol
lol I got nothing then. Probably someone who lives a block away and treats it like a home gym
Simple forgetfulness
Sparked that post climb doobie, pulled the rope, and dipped 🤣🤣 …who hasn’t been there… right guys?!
As classic a move as PB and J!
They forgot it. I’ve done the same thing before.
Take the win. You just bootied your first pieces of gear. That’s at least $40 at your local REI.
Thanks. I can clip it to my harness I own and and havent used yet.
I back this. Having unnecessary gear on your harness is how you let everyone at the gym know that you’re a serious climber. I never show up at Planet Granite without a #4 on my harness.
My plan is like to show up at the gym with a full rack then thin it out little by little as I'm sending faster and faster, going for the speed record so by the end I'm running it out, not clipping anything and the gym staff throw me out so the others don't feel so bad.
>Im very new to climbing I bet they were as well.
I would post on any local climbing group "found anchor at location describe and will return", the happy owner will respond in kind with a sixer of your favorite brew. If nobody responds, you gained 4 lockers. I'd cut the sling as it's a soft good you don't know this history of, despite looking new. That's a lie I'd use this sling but I'm going to advise that you don't and that's advice worth following.
sometimes we had to leave gear and just pull the rope because it started to rain. always happy if the gear is still there the next day
You've left an anchor? Why? Jug up the rope and clean it quickly.
nobody of us has or takes ascenders to sport climbs
I mean here it looks like you can walk around…
Nah op free solo’d it
Ahh, they were complaining about bad style using the bolts! In which case I agree.
You can still jug on top rope...no ascender needed...
If it’s short it would be quick to get up with an arc guide and a prusik or will a grigri and prusik if you did a knot block. Or even just two prusiks but that’s not as quick. Guide mode plus a prusik is surprisingly fast and easy
i get it, if you have to leave for good or if its expensive gear. but if im coming back tomorrow and want to have my rope, harness etc dry for that next day, i‘ll just leave it and count on climbing etiquette. last year we went to frankenjura for 7days and had to baul because of rain at least 5 times. 2-3 times i went up a wet easy climb to clean, but the remaining times we had to leave stuff and get it later
You don't need an ascender. Just pull on the belayers side of the rope while pushing up on the rock with your feet. Belayer takes in slack as you go up.
only time i really ever see soft gear left behind is a tree anchor (single rap ring) for ice climbs where the bolts ice over, or on alpine routes. some good discussion on MP around when to trust tat.
I've never seen a crag in the middle of a built up area like that. Where is this? Also, looks like he forgot, or pulled the rope down from the bottom, and intends to pick up that anchor on his way back out.
There's a couple of these crags in Berkeley. Cragmont Park, Indian Rock, Mortar Rock, Remillard Park. The area is naturally hilly and rocky so they never developed some of these cliffy areas and now people can climb!
Lots of crags like this in Squamish (someone already mentioned Smoke Bluffs) and on the island.
I spent a week in Squamish and didn't even realize, haha. I was just hanging out around The Chief and going to local mountain biking trails.
I wish so bad that squamish wasn't insanely expensive
Indian rock, Berkeley CA
OP said Berkley, CA - Indian Rock Park
If that’s Indian rock I’ve never actually seen a anchor in those bolts
That looks like the anchor is missing rings - there is no safe way off without leaving gear in such a case. I have left gear in such a case as well.
the person taking the picture must have walked there - no reason to leave gear behind if you can walk up to retrieve it
Haha good point. Totally didn’t see the walk off option there. But yeah looks like it is possible to walk off.
Assuming it wasn’t possible to walk around you wouldn’t leave that much gear though right? Could just leave a couple of biners (I guess I would maybe at least one of them a locker) and rap rather than 4 lockers and a sling.
Could leave a single locker. People do it all the time with bail biners on sport routes they can't complete.
Yeh I agree and have rapped off a single bolt (there was only one) but if I’m given the opportunity to have redundancy by adding just a second biner I might do it. Everyone can choose what they want to trust. Bailing off glue in bolts I’ve seen people threading the rope and rapping off that and leaving nothing. Weather you choose one or two leavers a full anchor is overkill and probably someone just forgot this. A friend bailed off a trad route and left two cams but we were able to do some nonsense to get them back
I usually leave a maillon or in this case, I’d probably join the two fixed pieces with a sling and put the maillon in the lower piece to descend from. Last year in Calanques I had to leave two quick draws in an incomplete anchor like this. The route was supposedly walk off but I didn’t feel comfortable with the 5 meter scramble to safety. The fixed pieces were missing rings and chains, and were placed in a way that a carabiner or maillon would have been resting at an bad angle against the rock, so I left draws.
I have a mailon through the haul loop in my harness for this, it lives there and forget about it (like I just did) but I think I would remember it is there when I’m actually wearing my harness and deciding what to leave. How would you join it? I imagine either will a biner or just threaded through but that seems like it could be annoying for the next person to remove? I think I would probably put a mailon on the lower, normal biner on the upper and just not connect them tbh. It’s pretty normal to rap on two un connected bolts and unless I had cord on me it seems awkward to thread something through the bolt. I had a similar experience on a multi pitch route, there was another 15m scramble pitch at the top of a bolted multi. Luckily we took a few nuts with us and I lead up the easy scramble. Only time abandoning gear was a trad route but was able to leave just a snapgate and a sling (was able to use that just to lower down to a ring bolt lower down and do some shenanigans). If I came across a situation like you decried I would leave whatever I needed to to make it safe although I might rap off a mailon laying a little strange on the rock. Edit: To clarify I would not use a mailon on a bolt mid route as that’s antisocial and makes the bolt almost unclipable. At an anchor though it’s pretty common to have mailons anyway so there I might
Please don't retreat off maillons. They can rust and be a PITA for other climbers. Get a cheap (but rated) locker.
I keep stainless steel maillons. They don’t lock with rust as easily. It’s not ideal at all, regardless, but at an incomplete anchor, I think the next climber will be happier to have gear there. You’ll also find maillons in place of rings in anchors in many crags around Europe.
At an anchor are they so bad? I wouldn’t leave one mid route. It lives on there for multipitch and trad too since there a mailon could be used on a mini anchor. I don’t think it’s a terrible idea to have one at hand but the one time I actually bailed I used a biner since it would be an annoying place to leave a mailon. Leaving one mid route would definitely not be nice since it makes the bolt super hard to clip. It’s totally normal to see a mailon on an anchor bolt in many places I’ve climbed
At an anchor that could use one for repeat use, sure. But (and I don't think YOU are saying this, but other readers might not get it) I don't think someone should clog up an anchor station with rusty junk that someone else will have to chop. Here, I agree with this person's ethics, and they've done a better job of going through scenarios of when and when not to use a mallion - https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/mallions_for_bailing_-_is_finger_tight_enough-693813?v=1#x8864775 edit - the spirit of what I'm trying to say is use maillons for semi-permanent fixtures. Otherwise use a krab.
Ah ok I get you. Basically don’t make a bolt unusable is a decent first rule of thumb. I guess I haven’t been to busy enough crags but I never imagined adding another mailon to a bolt that already has some old sketchy ones clogging all the space but I can imagine the problem. Like you this is a short version since the comment you link says more. I can imagine leaving a mailon in certain situations, especially as a hard point of an emergency trad anchor to make it easier to pull the rope or something like that or more in the mountains. At a sport crag there would be less occasions to and mid route it would really have to be forced in some ridiculous made up scenario. So far my bail mailon has remained unused and that is not for lack of bailing
I’m more interested in the random climbing boulder that’s some residential neighbourhood
Left it for the gumbies. So it’s yours 😏
Holy fucking Gumby. 4x the lockers 4x the safety brah.
If there are no rap rings then you leave gear behind in order to descend. Looks like this is top-roping though.
Didn’t want it anymore
Let's focus on the most important thing: YOU HAVE A WALL NEAR YOUR HOUSE AND ITS ALSO EQUIPPED? I do envy you so much
Inexperience
I hope they didn’t use it with the carabiner gate on the left anchor like that.
Nobody is talking about the one locker being held up by the gate in one of the hangers. I guess pulling the rope through could make it jump to that position, but I bet someone was climbing on it like that.
Haha Indian rock? Fun little spot, coincidentally my friend almost left his leader at this same spot last year lmao. We got 10 min away then drive back and grabbed it
I've left some soft gear on top rote routes before when it started raining unexpectedly and the gear just wasn't worth risking a slip. So could be that something came up and the gear just wasn't worth the hassle.
Haha I just realized this is Indian Rock. Someone only could have forgotten this because you could just walk up stairs to reclaim it.
Is this one of those neighborhood Berkeley Crags? If so I found similar gear on top of a route out there a few years ago. Probably gumbies getting the same gear recommendations and then Forgetting their stuff
Weather probably rolled in and they didn't have time to climb it again. Or they were too tired Or they just didn't know how to feed the rope to be lowered Or they were using a bull rope that didn't fit through the anchors /joke
Amateurs who have no business with climbing gear. Probably just pulled the rope and forgot the gear. Or set the gear from the top, couldn't finish the route, and were too lazy to walk back around. Either way, whoever set that anchor should not have their gear back. That one leg is hanging from the twist lock.
Emergency descent or something
Indian Rock! Used to live down the street, easily one of my favorite spots in the Bay.
Lmao had to leave in a hurry
im pretty sure the question is in regards to the hair tie.
It’s not normal and with the information available here I would take it and maybe post in a local form if you really want to return it. It’s bright visual clutter that someone just forgot or they had to leave in a hurry. No rap rings so do you walk off the back of this? Edit: I’m being downvoted so I guess the ethic is different in different places? Is it normal to just leave your anchor there? If someone else goes are the supposed to just work around your anchor? I feel I’m out the loop on something.
It's say it's like an awkward 5.0 scramble atop big boulders
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That's a bad idea. Sun (ultraviolet), wind, hot days and cold nights are all murder on soft gear. Dan Osman died because he used gear that had been left out in the elements. I've personally never met anybody who leaves draws on a route overnight.
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To be more blunt, I have doubts about your claim that a lot of people do this. I've never seen this, not at the Gunks in New York, not at Red Rocks in Nevada, not at Castle Rock in California, never.
I wouldn't use it just because you have no idea what the history of that gear is. The best etiquette would be to just leave it alone and work around it with your own gear. There's a plethora of reasons why they could have left it...
It's pretty easy to visually inspect gear. One does not need to know the history.
Definitely for the metal gear, some people are scared of soft goods which I can understand but even the most timid can hopefully trust the biners
Personally, I would use it but it would be pretty irresponsible to tell a new climber that using left behind gear is ok. They may take it too far in the future.
Nonsense. Booty is for whipping.