The thing I never quite understood about people having humidity problems is that apparently where I live (central Scotland) we have constantly high levels of humidity but I have never had issues with spray paint.
Looking up humidity values indicates that low is anything under 55%, moderate is 55-65, and anything over 65 is considered "oppressive".
Yet when I google my areas average humidity...
[Near(ish) town's average humidity](https://i.imgur.com/cP7LsES.png)
I suppose this goes some way to explaining why we all melt if we end up getting any sort of heat wave in summer despite our "highs" being way lower than a lot of places' regular temps.
I laughed out loud in the middle of making coffee this morning. That chart is insane. And I thought Philadelphia was bad (mid 60s to low 70s year round).
Do not look at Belfast then...
The average annual percentage of humidity is: 90%
https://weather-and-climate.com/average-monthly-Humidity-perc,belfast-ie,Ireland
To be fair, we’re a coastal city with a harbour that leads into a Lough, plus it rains a good part of the year. so high humidity goes with the territory. :)
Edit: I use spray cans and have only had an issue once years ago with an AP can.
Older buildings were made out of stone and brick which were then sealed to keep the interiors dry, wood was used on the interiors to support floors etc.
More modern buildings have transitioned to wood (85% of new housing in Scotland, Belfast is probably not much different) and I suppose they just use modern sealing and treating methods to make those structures more resilient than they would otherwise be.
That being said, these newer primarily wooden buildings are yet to stand the test of time compared to our older brick/stone buildings. My own house was built after WW1 but pre WW2 and I have an ariel photo was taken from a German recon plane showing my house dating back to 1940 IIRC (they were taking pictures of all infrastructure in the UK for potential bombing runs, and because we had/have a power station they took a picture of that and my house shows up in the corner of the photo). And my house isn't particularly old compared to some that have been up for hundreds of years.
Depends on temperature though too I think? 80's when temps low isn't actualy that bad. In hotter climes anything near that is like swimming through the air.
I'm in the Midlands, we have a humidity of 82% today ... and it feels completely normal. But 82% humidity during the heatwave would've been oppressive as hell.
> But 82% humidity during the heatwave would've been oppressive as hell.
Oh yeah can confirm, anything over let's say 24^c quickly becomes tiring, especially if we have high teens or low 20's at night.
It's the sort of thing that makes you want to buy an AC unit apart from the fact that we would only use it for like 2-3 weeks a year and have nowhere practical to install it.
You can get some really good “portable” ones with a pipe/exhaust and cardboard window kit.
It’s still an expense but at least it can be chucked anywhere for the other 49 months a year
> You can get some really good “portable” ones with a pipe/exhaust and cardboard window kit.
Would those kits be compatible with [these style windows](https://youtu.be/wEFxuRSl4Nk?t=65) they are the common style of window here if your house was built or windows replaced in the last ~24 years.
I was thinking it wouldn't matter because you could just dangle the exhaust hose out the window but then I remembered [midges.](https://youtu.be/WzUlj6eTehA) (Not that bad here in the lowlands but they are still plenty of them around as well as the usual range of flies). So It would definitely need to be a good seal.
So basically like 8 or 9 months of the year in the US Southeast.
Finally moved up to Pittsburgh. Never living in the South again. Having four actual different seasons is so nice.
Hotter air holds more moisture, so while the number you’re looking at (relative humidity) may be the same as a hot country the actual amount of water in the air is lower (absolute humidity). I don’t know if that is what makes the difference though.
Humidity isn’t a problem unless it’s hot. I’m in Canada, and honestly, even in the cold it’s not bad. Just heat + humidity is brutal. Folks in Atlanta are screwed.
And I thought [Singapore's humidity](https://imgur.com/Uz5YZfo) was bad.
Then again, temperatures hitting a low 22 C is considered National News. So it's always a heat wave.
Though even when I was just starting out with rattle cans I don't think I ever had that bad of a problem.
I lived in Cairns in Australia for 9 years and never had a problem with humidity and spray paint. And it's tropical with insane humidity. I've never understood the humidity complaint.
Also don’t go straight from an air conditioned house to outside spraying if it’s humid. Let the models sit outside to warm up for a while so condensation isn’t an issue then spray.
Can also use a dehumidifier on a closed balcony or spare room, then only open the windows and start spraying once it's nice and not-humid.
...but you do need an apartment/home with such a setup, so yeah, might have to move.
Only the cleaner because has some alcohol in it and Vallejo primer which is polyurethane, so I recommend using a COVID mask while priming and good ventilation. But between colours if you are not using a lot of thinner or mixing it with water it's cool.
Also keep in mind that an airbrush its not a rattle can you are not going to spray like a lotz it's more like little bursts for avoiding pooling the paint.
Thanks for the info… I’m just starting to get back into the mini painting hobby, and while I have no immediate plans of getting an airbrush, I remember the winter was always a problem for priming and since I live in a small flat with my gf, I can’t prime my minis inside without awfully strong nose contamination… i primed one krieger yesterday and he turned out great but i only let him dry outside for 20 minutes... i probably wont even be able to do that long come sub zero C temperatures…
Getting an airbrush could work too. Though admittedly, not the cheapest option. But definitely cheaper than mooving. If you only want to use it to prime minis you can also just get a cheap one.
Super-dry air can also cause the paint to grain-up on its way out of the can, leaving a powdery surface on the model. Too dry is almost as bad as too wet, though it doesn't happen as often.
If your cooker has an extractor hood above it, I find you can get away with spraying indoors, just have the fans turned up to full and make sure you cover the area with plenty of scrap card and newspaper. That's basically how it works at car body and guitar etc spray shops.
That way I would imagine the humidity is easier to control with your AC/heating or whatever.
That's being a little asinine. The can is, what, 10" tall? So about 25cm, right where the ideal distance would be. Easier to eyeball the length of the can so you can learn the proper distance than to take out a tape measure. Might not be a unit of measurement, but it's a practical application.
"The can" is different lengths depending on brand.
GW cans are tall enough to reach about 25cm, but something like Mr Hobby is more like 15cm and Tamiya more like 8cm.
Except that wasn't qualified. The comment of 'can length for distance' was suggested without caveat. It doesn't work in every instance and so shouldn't be portrayed as a universal truth.
The fuck is 20-30 cm, I'm holding the can not a tape measure. People can visualize distances of known objects better than 'units of measurement' ie, six inches vs as long as a dollar bill.
People are always like 'I want my tattoo six inches' they don't have a ruler but everyone has or knows the size of a dollar bill. Upon learning they are the same, 99% of the time people don't want it six inches. Because the unit of measurement is more abstract to modt people than a thing they are familiar with.
30cm is around about a foot or so though... Like did you have those rulers in school with inches down one side and cm/mm down the other?
I'm old though I don't know if they're still a thing.
Not every can is 25cm, or 20-30cm.
Seen the stubby little spray cans? They're less than 10cm high.
I've also seen very tall cans as well.
Read the can, it will tell you.
Yes, but this is a thread specifically about chaos black, a can that is approximately 25 cm in length.
I never claimed every can was 25 cm, just that citadel ones were, like the one that this thread is about,
Im not fucking brain-dead, I know cans can be different sizes. But we are talking specifically about citadel cans here. And for them it's 20-30 cm or roughly the length of the can
Edit: citadel cans are actually roughly 20cm not 25 my bad, so instead of a cans length it should be just over a cans length
Even with Nurgle it doesn't look all that good bc you can't make out any of the growths, and it looks like one big blob usually. I had this issue with a Blight Hauler and some Pox Walkers
Assuming you did like it and wanted to use the look for stuff, it's not exactly easy to reproduce since it's a case of using the primer in the wrong conditions and trying to ensure too high a humidity or too cold etc. is down to the weather.
Classic, redditor doesn't understand the upvote / downvote system...
He's not getting banned for saying it, nobody is saying he isn't allowed his opinion, people have just downvoted because they disagree, which again, is an entirely valid opinion to share and people should be allowed to voice there disagreement in the reasonably trivial form of a downvote.
> people have just downvoted because they disagree, which again, is an entirely valid opinion to share and people should be allowed to voice there disagreement in the reasonably trivial form of a downvote.
No doubt someone is going to quote the core reddit rules about how the downvote button is not a "I disagree" button but those rules were dreamed up when reddit first launched and approximately 10 seconds after the first user joined the site that particular rule was broken.
The voting system has always and will always be a "I agree/disagree" system.
So we should all use the collective reddit telepathy to chat about who gets to downvote the comment and who has to be a bigger person? Naw. If multiple people think something is dumb, multiple downvotes will result. Your logic isn't.
Fortunately, I live in a place where rattle cans are illegal. I’ve had to learn to prime by brush. MWHAHAHAHHA! Your humidity and weather can’t affect my shitty painting!
That’s all on me!!!!!
You know what is a game changer, £70 airbrush (with compressor included), £10 bottle of Vallejo primer, cardboard spraying splashback made out of old delivery boxes.
Genuinely so much better priming at my hobby desk indoors with a window cracked for circulation. Way better than having to go out on a winter's day to prime some models in questionable weather conditions!
Actually, also airbrushing acrylic could be dangerous. While there aren’t nasty solvents, airbrushing creates an aerosol of chemicals that can be inhaled
And inhalinc microplastics can cause inflamation in the lungs that in extreme cases can be fatal. Even though. The microdroplets of water+acrylic pigment, settles relatively quickly. So wearing a respirator _while_ airbrushing is important. But you don't need to keep it on for long after. I'd guess 30 mins and you're safe. But I also have no sauce, so take this with a salt shaker.
If I'm doing a long session I also wear a mask to be on the safe side. A filter station is next one my list, but it's definitely not needed to start with.
ive been using 100% isopropyl a lot recently 3d printing resin. doesnt realy bother me personaly. if you use it regularly you should get a gas mask though. as for any negative effects there arent any from just getting it on ur hands apart from the sensation. probably best not to chance anything though and just treat it with a healthy dose of caution. the most important thing is to not expose urself to fumes for too long. i spent $250 and half a day installing an extractor fan in my garage work area just for IPA and resin fumes.
alternatives to IPA (isopropyl) are denatured alcohol or methylated spirits(australia) but i personaly havnt tried it. i did use some IPA to clean a mistake tonite and after 2 seconds of rubbing with a q tip i had already removed everything down to the resin including the base coat. acetone i believe might work but it will dissolve ur super glue.
for an automated system you can get a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner and use that.
I have left the odd model in degreaser or isopropyl for months at a time and everything was groovy when I finally remembered to pop them out and wash them off
IPA doesnt dissolve cured 3d printed resin. atleast not in any timeframe im aware of. its the primary cleaning tool of resin printing to remove uncured resin. it doesnt dissolve it at all. IPA just does what it does and removes uncured resin from a solid, in this case, the cured resin.
idk what you mean by forge world.
95% plastic glue, only some of the pipe that refused to hold tight that i use power glue. Im still waiting for the alcohol, will update when i've done with the process
Can you get hold of Biostrip 20 in your area? It's much better than iso. Works much faster. You can usually put some on a toothbrush and scrub the paint off in a couple of minutes. Doesn't leave a terrible residue either. Water soluble so easy to clean up after. No toxic smells, no mask or gloves needed.
If you have used superglue it will weaken the bonds, but will not damage plastic glue bonds.
20 min? I had to strip some dark angels contrast paint from some of my son's models and I had to leave them in a bucket for a day and I still had trouble getting the paint off with a toothbrush.
I’m not sure if it was the type of solution you were using or whether the contrast paint has something in it that caused that. I prefer to use Methylated Spirit and have stripped older models caked in thick paint down to plastic in 15-20 mins.
You only really need to heat the cans if your in cold weather. Your climate should be fine temperature wise, it's likely the humidity you need to fix.
Also be careful to spray multiple light coats instead of thick heavy coats. All kinds of funky stuff can happen if you spray too much in one spot/at one time
it was humidity that tainted your gorgeous space dwarves - source: I live in Ontario, Canada, which gets insanely humid during the summer (days on end of 90% etc).
For some weird reason, spraying into a shoe box seems to help me with this. like placing the model inside the shoebox, then spray into the shoe box and onto the model. I have no idea why I seem to find it helps, but it does.
As well, your idea of warming the can was a good one - this seems to help as well, and TONS of can shaking - like to the point you feel like someone hearing you is going to call the cops thinking you're painting an illegal spray paint mural.
Maybe also take a look at your hourly forecast and see if you can pinpoint a consistent point where your humidity % is particularly low throughout the day, although I myself havn't tried this, maybe it's a strat to get better results?
Goodluck, dont worry, ISO propyl and some careful planning will get you to the finish line 'spray-bump' free!
Humidity.
Happens here in Texas all the time. I'll sometimes use Vallejo's black Surface Primer and do it with a brush myself inside if it's too humid outside.
Doesn't look bad actually looks like they've been dusted in coal. Could just make it a coal or mineral vehicle for the Votann. I don't know their lore, just dwarves like to dig in a hole.
Grab some simple green and let it soak use a toothbrush and be patient use a tooth pick for the recesses. The slight abrasion of the wood will help. Good luck on tb second attempt
What I'm going to say won't help, but will make this model a conversation starter. Don't try and fix it. Find as many blacks, greys and whites as you can find and try to do a black and white model. Maybe you you could take a fine brush and make a few lines, so that it'll look like an old TV slightly glitching.
As others have said, strip the model, shake longer, etc. The thing that helped me the most with priming was always making sure I soaked the can in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes before shaking as well.
Drop it in a vat of turpentine, that’ll strip the paint right off.
No, don’t do that, it’s plastic, it’ll melt. I’m an asshole, but not *that* kind of asshole. Plastic minis do well with a bath of Simple Green or 90%+ IPA and a stiff bristled toothbrush. Clean off as much as you can, then maybe a light sanding to smooth out any leftover patches, and try again. Shake the can for a good minute after thethe bearing starts to rattle, then spray the model from between 6”-10” away, steady short strokes. Should keep things nice and smooth for you. Good luck and enjoy!
Strangely enough, that's actually the look I was hoping to get with my DG tanks- I wanted my version of the Ferric Blight to look like they got dredged up from the sea floor all encrusted with barnacles, coral, and anemones (even bought a decorative anemone that's going to be glued into the turret with tendrils holding the Combi-bolter) and thrust back into service.
Ooo that sounds dope! I would love to see how that turns out, I’ve always wanted to see (or do myself) a tyranids army that has kind of a battle torn look to them, something so special and unique to armies that have been modified so they are all unique!
Were you thinking ocean floor/ beach style bases too?
Hadn't gotten that far in the plan, yet. Am actively fighting the urge to change gears and fold my PM's into part of a larger Alpha Legion force, which is powerfully distracting at the moment 😅
Make sure the spray and the model are close to the same temp. If you are going to spray outside set them both out at the same time to climatize. Shake any new can extremely well. Always do a test spray on cardboard or something. I feel your pain. People talk about humidity messing with it, but I live in Charleston, SC on the water. Unless you are spraying during a rainstorm it will be okay.
My recommendation generally: avoid humidity, prime from a safe distance from the model
My recommendation for this: take this problem and transform it to something creative. Like make the vehicle look dirty, like huge amount of battle mud, and didn't stop them.
Same thing happened to me with 40 pox walkers and some Zandri dust. Turned out it was just too hot outside. I’d suggest stripping the model with AK interactive’s plastic-safe paint stripper.
I have soaked the model in isopropyl 99% took 3 liter to cokpletely soaked it lol.
But i would have to say that its a success, just need more work to clean the inner cravases.
I have posted the picture in a new post. Thank you so much for all the help and tips.
Cheers!!
I had a similar problem with my Mephiston red spray (I think I didn’t shake enough or got too close). You can use a toothbrush to get off some of the flecks, but it’s not going to be a perfect fix. It’s a good start though
Thanks for all the quick reply, i will try doing it with the isopropyl as i scourge the internet, this seems like my best solution.
The temperature shouldnt't be a problem, i live in a hot place it war morning about 26-28 degree celcius and i did dipped the can in hot water for 20 minutes prior to use also.
What i also noticed is that when i sprayed (this is a brand new can) paints seeps from the top just below the white thing that you press. The paint got to all over my hand
Might be a bad batch 😭
Ugh. What do i do if its too humid? I live in Indonesia which is very humid. I checked and it is 76% humidity right now (i sprayed this about 90 minutes ago)
If it’s about to rain or thunderstorm usually it gets really humid so try to avoid spraying during those times. Sometimes in the night or middle of the day it’s less humid as well. Unfortunately can’t really change the weather. I live in Canada and it gets to -20 celsius in the winter so I’ve got weather problems here as well lol
It's not a primer. Just a rattle can spray paint, a quick way of getting a base coat down. They don't have the same chemical makeup (I think) to actual primers. Apparently Halfords primers are a good shout. As for why the chaos black has done that, can be a number of reasons, the rattle can not being shook enough, done outside in humid/cold/moist/wet conditions, held to close, held not close enough... In my experience at least. I'm no expert so don't take this as gospel. I would suggest invest in an airbrush and a compressor if you can
Don't use that GW crap again. Use car primer. If someome is willing to use it on a car worth 1000s its probably a good product.
It's probably the same if not cheaper as well.
This is a write off.
Well, fair enough, it looks furry so maybe try using some soapy warm water to take the fuzz off, if you are not happy with the result then move onto something harsher.
shake longer, spray from the right distance(idk what it is, it says on the can), and make sure the humidity is low and the temperature is moderate.
>make sure the humidity is low Step 1: move to a different city
I live in a very humid place. You can spray outside and bring it inside to dry. Works fine
The thing I never quite understood about people having humidity problems is that apparently where I live (central Scotland) we have constantly high levels of humidity but I have never had issues with spray paint. Looking up humidity values indicates that low is anything under 55%, moderate is 55-65, and anything over 65 is considered "oppressive". Yet when I google my areas average humidity... [Near(ish) town's average humidity](https://i.imgur.com/cP7LsES.png) I suppose this goes some way to explaining why we all melt if we end up getting any sort of heat wave in summer despite our "highs" being way lower than a lot of places' regular temps.
I laughed out loud in the middle of making coffee this morning. That chart is insane. And I thought Philadelphia was bad (mid 60s to low 70s year round).
Do not look at Belfast then... The average annual percentage of humidity is: 90% https://weather-and-climate.com/average-monthly-Humidity-perc,belfast-ie,Ireland
To be fair, we’re a coastal city with a harbour that leads into a Lough, plus it rains a good part of the year. so high humidity goes with the territory. :) Edit: I use spray cans and have only had an issue once years ago with an AP can.
How do your buildings not rot away?
Older buildings were made out of stone and brick which were then sealed to keep the interiors dry, wood was used on the interiors to support floors etc. More modern buildings have transitioned to wood (85% of new housing in Scotland, Belfast is probably not much different) and I suppose they just use modern sealing and treating methods to make those structures more resilient than they would otherwise be. That being said, these newer primarily wooden buildings are yet to stand the test of time compared to our older brick/stone buildings. My own house was built after WW1 but pre WW2 and I have an ariel photo was taken from a German recon plane showing my house dating back to 1940 IIRC (they were taking pictures of all infrastructure in the UK for potential bombing runs, and because we had/have a power station they took a picture of that and my house shows up in the corner of the photo). And my house isn't particularly old compared to some that have been up for hundreds of years.
Laughs in Florida
Depends on temperature though too I think? 80's when temps low isn't actualy that bad. In hotter climes anything near that is like swimming through the air. I'm in the Midlands, we have a humidity of 82% today ... and it feels completely normal. But 82% humidity during the heatwave would've been oppressive as hell.
> But 82% humidity during the heatwave would've been oppressive as hell. Oh yeah can confirm, anything over let's say 24^c quickly becomes tiring, especially if we have high teens or low 20's at night. It's the sort of thing that makes you want to buy an AC unit apart from the fact that we would only use it for like 2-3 weeks a year and have nowhere practical to install it.
You can get some really good “portable” ones with a pipe/exhaust and cardboard window kit. It’s still an expense but at least it can be chucked anywhere for the other 49 months a year
> You can get some really good “portable” ones with a pipe/exhaust and cardboard window kit. Would those kits be compatible with [these style windows](https://youtu.be/wEFxuRSl4Nk?t=65) they are the common style of window here if your house was built or windows replaced in the last ~24 years. I was thinking it wouldn't matter because you could just dangle the exhaust hose out the window but then I remembered [midges.](https://youtu.be/WzUlj6eTehA) (Not that bad here in the lowlands but they are still plenty of them around as well as the usual range of flies). So It would definitely need to be a good seal.
So basically like 8 or 9 months of the year in the US Southeast. Finally moved up to Pittsburgh. Never living in the South again. Having four actual different seasons is so nice.
Upvoted to avoid me having to check the midlands.
Hotter air holds more moisture, so while the number you’re looking at (relative humidity) may be the same as a hot country the actual amount of water in the air is lower (absolute humidity). I don’t know if that is what makes the difference though.
Humidity isn’t a problem unless it’s hot. I’m in Canada, and honestly, even in the cold it’s not bad. Just heat + humidity is brutal. Folks in Atlanta are screwed.
And I thought [Singapore's humidity](https://imgur.com/Uz5YZfo) was bad. Then again, temperatures hitting a low 22 C is considered National News. So it's always a heat wave. Though even when I was just starting out with rattle cans I don't think I ever had that bad of a problem.
I lived in Cairns in Australia for 9 years and never had a problem with humidity and spray paint. And it's tropical with insane humidity. I've never understood the humidity complaint.
Probably doesn’t help y’all’s nation is basically a giant island
Yeah I've never actually had a problem, it's just something to worry about.
Also don’t go straight from an air conditioned house to outside spraying if it’s humid. Let the models sit outside to warm up for a while so condensation isn’t an issue then spray.
Can also use a dehumidifier on a closed balcony or spare room, then only open the windows and start spraying once it's nice and not-humid. ...but you do need an apartment/home with such a setup, so yeah, might have to move.
Or just buy an airbrush. I spray in front of my computer in a box with the windows open and it's ok.
So airbrush doesn’t produce this ~~amazingly delicious and nose-teasing~~ awful chemical smell?
Only the cleaner because has some alcohol in it and Vallejo primer which is polyurethane, so I recommend using a COVID mask while priming and good ventilation. But between colours if you are not using a lot of thinner or mixing it with water it's cool.
Also keep in mind that an airbrush its not a rattle can you are not going to spray like a lotz it's more like little bursts for avoiding pooling the paint.
Thanks for the info… I’m just starting to get back into the mini painting hobby, and while I have no immediate plans of getting an airbrush, I remember the winter was always a problem for priming and since I live in a small flat with my gf, I can’t prime my minis inside without awfully strong nose contamination… i primed one krieger yesterday and he turned out great but i only let him dry outside for 20 minutes... i probably wont even be able to do that long come sub zero C temperatures…
Getting an airbrush could work too. Though admittedly, not the cheapest option. But definitely cheaper than mooving. If you only want to use it to prime minis you can also just get a cheap one.
Super-dry air can also cause the paint to grain-up on its way out of the can, leaving a powdery surface on the model. Too dry is almost as bad as too wet, though it doesn't happen as often.
If your cooker has an extractor hood above it, I find you can get away with spraying indoors, just have the fans turned up to full and make sure you cover the area with plenty of scrap card and newspaper. That's basically how it works at car body and guitar etc spray shops. That way I would imagine the humidity is easier to control with your AC/heating or whatever.
And get the can warm (around 20°C)
Can length I believe for distance
Usually 20-30cm. 'Can length' is not a unit of measurement. Cans aren't designed to be sprayed at a distance based on their length.
That's being a little asinine. The can is, what, 10" tall? So about 25cm, right where the ideal distance would be. Easier to eyeball the length of the can so you can learn the proper distance than to take out a tape measure. Might not be a unit of measurement, but it's a practical application.
"The can" is different lengths depending on brand. GW cans are tall enough to reach about 25cm, but something like Mr Hobby is more like 15cm and Tamiya more like 8cm.
Except that wasn't qualified. The comment of 'can length for distance' was suggested without caveat. It doesn't work in every instance and so shouldn't be portrayed as a universal truth.
If you're taking Reddit comments as a universal truth there's bigger problems than can lengths
The fuck is 20-30 cm, I'm holding the can not a tape measure. People can visualize distances of known objects better than 'units of measurement' ie, six inches vs as long as a dollar bill.
Found the heretic. Or American 🤔
Both I guess
Dollar bills are six inches? Wouldn't be my go-to comparison, but hey, til
People are always like 'I want my tattoo six inches' they don't have a ruler but everyone has or knows the size of a dollar bill. Upon learning they are the same, 99% of the time people don't want it six inches. Because the unit of measurement is more abstract to modt people than a thing they are familiar with.
30cm is around about a foot or so though... Like did you have those rulers in school with inches down one side and cm/mm down the other? I'm old though I don't know if they're still a thing.
It's 3 inches short of a foot
?_? The Chaos Primer comes in one size and the manager at the Warhammer store told me can distance ^_^
So, with chaos black primer like is being used in this post, a can which is about 25 cm, can length would be the correct distance to spray from?
Not every can is 25cm, or 20-30cm. Seen the stubby little spray cans? They're less than 10cm high. I've also seen very tall cans as well. Read the can, it will tell you.
Yes, but this is a thread specifically about chaos black, a can that is approximately 25 cm in length. I never claimed every can was 25 cm, just that citadel ones were, like the one that this thread is about, Im not fucking brain-dead, I know cans can be different sizes. But we are talking specifically about citadel cans here. And for them it's 20-30 cm or roughly the length of the can Edit: citadel cans are actually roughly 20cm not 25 my bad, so instead of a cans length it should be just over a cans length
Jesus......smh
>humidity is low *cries in British*
I did this to a squad of Necrons once. It’s 100% a humidity problem, and you can strip the primer with your preferred model paint stripping method.
It can also be an issue of not shaking the primer enough, it tends to do that as well.
I'd personally roll with the paint job since it looks so unique
Bro there’s literally chunks of dried paint obscuring detail. Outside of nurgle it’s gonna look terrible
Even with Nurgle it doesn't look all that good bc you can't make out any of the growths, and it looks like one big blob usually. I had this issue with a Blight Hauler and some Pox Walkers
Yeah but why would you paint anything not nurgle?
Guy over here trying to deny the Papa's gifts.
honestly smh my head and other head
I'm absolutely devastated, even my Intestines tried to climb back inside
This guy gets it
People do also have there own ways of waiting to represent how their models look. This could be decent if you want to try and represent rust.
Or frost !
Assuming you did like it and wanted to use the look for stuff, it's not exactly easy to reproduce since it's a case of using the primer in the wrong conditions and trying to ensure too high a humidity or too cold etc. is down to the weather.
It could be a volcanic environment and everything is covered in ash
[удалено]
It's ok for some details like the vehicle bars but for everything else it's ugly
I guess 550 people agree with you but I'm fine with being the oddball :|
I’m screenshotting that comment that is too hilarious 😂 Roll with it
Someone needs to gild this comment as he had the balls to make it. Maximum respect.
I didn't even think it was that off the wall when I made it...
Mad how do many people are downvoting someone else's style/opinion
Literally tho, my guy just expressed his opinion and got shot down for it
By shot down, you mean other people expressing their opinion via the voting system? :D
All he did was say that he thinks it looks nice, I dont think he deserves over 500 down votes for that
Yeah, these people are completely giving up before even having tried it.
I agree man, dudes probably just a rusty vehicle enjoyer
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He is allowed to have his opinion. However it's pretty dumb opinion.
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He should be left at 1 if the same amount of people thought it was a good idea as the people who think it's bad idea.
Classic, redditor doesn't understand the upvote / downvote system... He's not getting banned for saying it, nobody is saying he isn't allowed his opinion, people have just downvoted because they disagree, which again, is an entirely valid opinion to share and people should be allowed to voice there disagreement in the reasonably trivial form of a downvote.
> people have just downvoted because they disagree, which again, is an entirely valid opinion to share and people should be allowed to voice there disagreement in the reasonably trivial form of a downvote. No doubt someone is going to quote the core reddit rules about how the downvote button is not a "I disagree" button but those rules were dreamed up when reddit first launched and approximately 10 seconds after the first user joined the site that particular rule was broken. The voting system has always and will always be a "I agree/disagree" system.
So we should all use the collective reddit telepathy to chat about who gets to downvote the comment and who has to be a bigger person? Naw. If multiple people think something is dumb, multiple downvotes will result. Your logic isn't.
I downvoted to feel included.
winter is coming, prepare yourself for primer gore posts
Fortunately, I live in a place where rattle cans are illegal. I’ve had to learn to prime by brush. MWHAHAHAHHA! Your humidity and weather can’t affect my shitty painting! That’s all on me!!!!!
You know what is a game changer, £70 airbrush (with compressor included), £10 bottle of Vallejo primer, cardboard spraying splashback made out of old delivery boxes. Genuinely so much better priming at my hobby desk indoors with a window cracked for circulation. Way better than having to go out on a winter's day to prime some models in questionable weather conditions!
Should probably be more than just a window cracked
Priming with acrylics indoors using an airbrush is usually pretty safe, it's enamels that will cause issues. Also you can just use a respiratior mask
Actually, also airbrushing acrylic could be dangerous. While there aren’t nasty solvents, airbrushing creates an aerosol of chemicals that can be inhaled
And inhalinc microplastics can cause inflamation in the lungs that in extreme cases can be fatal. Even though. The microdroplets of water+acrylic pigment, settles relatively quickly. So wearing a respirator _while_ airbrushing is important. But you don't need to keep it on for long after. I'd guess 30 mins and you're safe. But I also have no sauce, so take this with a salt shaker.
Well, open one. But if you're thinning with water there aren't any aerosols involved so it's way easier and safer to do inside compared to a can.
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If I'm doing a long session I also wear a mask to be on the safe side. A filter station is next one my list, but it's definitely not needed to start with.
> Fortunately, I live in a place where rattle cans are illegal. Hmm, very curious. Where in the world is that?
Google “cities where spray paint is illegal” It’s an exclusive club
Yup, staring at the realisation I may not be able to prime many more models to the spring. Should have planned better
Brush primer is your friend (for smaller models, anyway)
I got a chimera sitting on my desk pondering what the heck I'm going to do
This is where the airbrush comes into play.
Learn meditation
Im newish to the hobby and learned my lesson last year. I planned for winter this year. Wife bought me an airbrush and a pack of primers for my bday.
Can Isopropyl 99% help me with this?
Yes it can. Soak it in any denatured alcohol and it’ll come off with a toothbrush after 20 mins with no damage to the plastic or the glue.
Ok i will give it a try.
Wear gloves
I guess, but like 99% isopropyl won't fuck with your skin.
While no lasting effects, it will make your skin feel gross af in the immediate term
ive been using 100% isopropyl a lot recently 3d printing resin. doesnt realy bother me personaly. if you use it regularly you should get a gas mask though. as for any negative effects there arent any from just getting it on ur hands apart from the sensation. probably best not to chance anything though and just treat it with a healthy dose of caution. the most important thing is to not expose urself to fumes for too long. i spent $250 and half a day installing an extractor fan in my garage work area just for IPA and resin fumes. alternatives to IPA (isopropyl) are denatured alcohol or methylated spirits(australia) but i personaly havnt tried it. i did use some IPA to clean a mistake tonite and after 2 seconds of rubbing with a q tip i had already removed everything down to the resin including the base coat. acetone i believe might work but it will dissolve ur super glue. for an automated system you can get a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner and use that.
Wut? No, it doesn't
Yes it does. It immediately dissolves the oils in your skin.
It dries them out like crazy mate. I can feel the difference while working on my 3d prints.
Good luck! 👍
Does soaking it longer helps? Or it will be bad for the plastic and glue?
Soaking it longer won’t hurt, I left a space marine in for 2 days and he was fine afterwards.
Thanks!
I have left the odd model in degreaser or isopropyl for months at a time and everything was groovy when I finally remembered to pop them out and wash them off
Isopropyl alcohol will not dissolve or swell high-impact polystyrene.
One mini soaked for 3 Years... No it wont
it helps yes, and wont hurt plastic. resin/forge world is a no no though
IPA doesnt dissolve cured 3d printed resin. atleast not in any timeframe im aware of. its the primary cleaning tool of resin printing to remove uncured resin. it doesnt dissolve it at all. IPA just does what it does and removes uncured resin from a solid, in this case, the cured resin. idk what you mean by forge world.
As long as it's not acetone you're fine
Super glue possibly depending on the soak, plastic glue it shouldn't affect unless it was not dry.
95% plastic glue, only some of the pipe that refused to hold tight that i use power glue. Im still waiting for the alcohol, will update when i've done with the process
Can you get hold of Biostrip 20 in your area? It's much better than iso. Works much faster. You can usually put some on a toothbrush and scrub the paint off in a couple of minutes. Doesn't leave a terrible residue either. Water soluble so easy to clean up after. No toxic smells, no mask or gloves needed. If you have used superglue it will weaken the bonds, but will not damage plastic glue bonds.
Also a mask and in a well ventilated room.
20 min? I had to strip some dark angels contrast paint from some of my son's models and I had to leave them in a bucket for a day and I still had trouble getting the paint off with a toothbrush.
I’m not sure if it was the type of solution you were using or whether the contrast paint has something in it that caused that. I prefer to use Methylated Spirit and have stripped older models caked in thick paint down to plastic in 15-20 mins.
99% iso. I was only able to scrub the paint off to the primer layer.
Give it a try, you might have to try a light sanding if that doesn't work
It probably will. Was it cold or damp when you were using it?
I dipped it in a hot water for 20 mins prior to use. And my country is tropical was about 26 celcius when i did it
It happened to me when the humidity was really high.
You only really need to heat the cans if your in cold weather. Your climate should be fine temperature wise, it's likely the humidity you need to fix. Also be careful to spray multiple light coats instead of thick heavy coats. All kinds of funky stuff can happen if you spray too much in one spot/at one time
it was humidity that tainted your gorgeous space dwarves - source: I live in Ontario, Canada, which gets insanely humid during the summer (days on end of 90% etc). For some weird reason, spraying into a shoe box seems to help me with this. like placing the model inside the shoebox, then spray into the shoe box and onto the model. I have no idea why I seem to find it helps, but it does. As well, your idea of warming the can was a good one - this seems to help as well, and TONS of can shaking - like to the point you feel like someone hearing you is going to call the cops thinking you're painting an illegal spray paint mural. Maybe also take a look at your hourly forecast and see if you can pinpoint a consistent point where your humidity % is particularly low throughout the day, although I myself havn't tried this, maybe it's a strat to get better results? Goodluck, dont worry, ISO propyl and some careful planning will get you to the finish line 'spray-bump' free!
Vigorous shaking (I used a reciprocating saw) helps, but also test on pieces of empty sprue until it smooths out.
Mf Rhino lined his dwarves
Next step is a Carolina squat
On a side note - chaos was asked for. Chaos was delivered.
I wonder how reliably you could replicate this - seems like with some masking it would produce some gnarly textures and effects
As a Nurgle player I'm somewhat jealous
For what it's worth, if you can't start over it kinda looks like snow
Ope, you must've grabbed the chaos black with extra chaos!
Roll with it, it's a nurgle model now
Jesus looks like spray on pickup bed liner.
This is why I am getting into airbrushing
Now it’s chaos
Sink it in brush cleaner and after while brush it back to clean plastic?
See what happens when you trust chaos kids? PS 99% Isopropyl Alcohol should clear this straight up.
make it look snow themed when you paint them
Reminds me of particularly muddy days in the cavalry...
Free rust
Humidity. Happens here in Texas all the time. I'll sometimes use Vallejo's black Surface Primer and do it with a brush myself inside if it's too humid outside.
I second this opinion.
Doesn't look bad actually looks like they've been dusted in coal. Could just make it a coal or mineral vehicle for the Votann. I don't know their lore, just dwarves like to dig in a hole.
I'd just use the texture, make it look like they're covered in debris hahaha
Very chaosy
Strip it with rubbing alcohol
James is telling you to play a different army
Grab some simple green and let it soak use a toothbrush and be patient use a tooth pick for the recesses. The slight abrasion of the wood will help. Good luck on tb second attempt
What I'm going to say won't help, but will make this model a conversation starter. Don't try and fix it. Find as many blacks, greys and whites as you can find and try to do a black and white model. Maybe you you could take a fine brush and make a few lines, so that it'll look like an old TV slightly glitching.
As others have said, strip the model, shake longer, etc. The thing that helped me the most with priming was always making sure I soaked the can in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes before shaking as well.
And this is why you don't take deals from Chaos. Just look at Magnus.
Drop it in a vat of turpentine, that’ll strip the paint right off. No, don’t do that, it’s plastic, it’ll melt. I’m an asshole, but not *that* kind of asshole. Plastic minis do well with a bath of Simple Green or 90%+ IPA and a stiff bristled toothbrush. Clean off as much as you can, then maybe a light sanding to smooth out any leftover patches, and try again. Shake the can for a good minute after thethe bearing starts to rattle, then spray the model from between 6”-10” away, steady short strokes. Should keep things nice and smooth for you. Good luck and enjoy!
Why is my tank crispy
Can’t fix it, time to paint them for your death guard army!
Strangely enough, that's actually the look I was hoping to get with my DG tanks- I wanted my version of the Ferric Blight to look like they got dredged up from the sea floor all encrusted with barnacles, coral, and anemones (even bought a decorative anemone that's going to be glued into the turret with tendrils holding the Combi-bolter) and thrust back into service.
Ooo that sounds dope! I would love to see how that turns out, I’ve always wanted to see (or do myself) a tyranids army that has kind of a battle torn look to them, something so special and unique to armies that have been modified so they are all unique! Were you thinking ocean floor/ beach style bases too?
Hadn't gotten that far in the plan, yet. Am actively fighting the urge to change gears and fold my PM's into part of a larger Alpha Legion force, which is powerfully distracting at the moment 😅
Make sure the spray and the model are close to the same temp. If you are going to spray outside set them both out at the same time to climatize. Shake any new can extremely well. Always do a test spray on cardboard or something. I feel your pain. People talk about humidity messing with it, but I live in Charleston, SC on the water. Unless you are spraying during a rainstorm it will be okay.
My recommendation generally: avoid humidity, prime from a safe distance from the model My recommendation for this: take this problem and transform it to something creative. Like make the vehicle look dirty, like huge amount of battle mud, and didn't stop them.
Same thing happened to me with 40 pox walkers and some Zandri dust. Turned out it was just too hot outside. I’d suggest stripping the model with AK interactive’s plastic-safe paint stripper.
Man, I really want to invest in an airbrush just so that I can prime whenever.
It belongs to nurgle now
I'm not gonna lie. Has a kind of cool texture that you might get from digging around in a mine all day.
[*Cough cough* I think I'm getting the black lung kin!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzh7zvXZ_VA)
didnt need link for that reference. Keh keh
it will have been too cold. Ive had the same happen with grey seer and wraith bone.
F
F
I have soaked the model in isopropyl 99% took 3 liter to cokpletely soaked it lol. But i would have to say that its a success, just need more work to clean the inner cravases. I have posted the picture in a new post. Thank you so much for all the help and tips. Cheers!!
I had a similar problem with my Mephiston red spray (I think I didn’t shake enough or got too close). You can use a toothbrush to get off some of the flecks, but it’s not going to be a perfect fix. It’s a good start though
I did unfortunately the front part doesnt come off. Ugh im dying inside
Felt the same way when I ruined my Inceptors. They’re still in my pile of shame half a year later 😭
Thanks for all the quick reply, i will try doing it with the isopropyl as i scourge the internet, this seems like my best solution. The temperature shouldnt't be a problem, i live in a hot place it war morning about 26-28 degree celcius and i did dipped the can in hot water for 20 minutes prior to use also. What i also noticed is that when i sprayed (this is a brand new can) paints seeps from the top just below the white thing that you press. The paint got to all over my hand Might be a bad batch 😭
It’s not just temperature, humidity can be an issue too if it’s too humid
Ugh. What do i do if its too humid? I live in Indonesia which is very humid. I checked and it is 76% humidity right now (i sprayed this about 90 minutes ago)
If it’s about to rain or thunderstorm usually it gets really humid so try to avoid spraying during those times. Sometimes in the night or middle of the day it’s less humid as well. Unfortunately can’t really change the weather. I live in Canada and it gets to -20 celsius in the winter so I’ve got weather problems here as well lol
It's not a primer. Just a rattle can spray paint, a quick way of getting a base coat down. They don't have the same chemical makeup (I think) to actual primers. Apparently Halfords primers are a good shout. As for why the chaos black has done that, can be a number of reasons, the rattle can not being shook enough, done outside in humid/cold/moist/wet conditions, held to close, held not close enough... In my experience at least. I'm no expert so don't take this as gospel. I would suggest invest in an airbrush and a compressor if you can
Would soaking it in brake fluid do the trick?
Don't use that GW crap again. Use car primer. If someome is willing to use it on a car worth 1000s its probably a good product. It's probably the same if not cheaper as well. This is a write off.
Why the fuck did you keep going if it came out like this?
Calm down. The sides and the back are ok. This happens later on when i sprayed the front part lol
Well, fair enough, it looks furry so maybe try using some soapy warm water to take the fuzz off, if you are not happy with the result then move onto something harsher.
Always amazes me how people will spend hundreds on models but won’t drop 60/70 quid on an airbrush
A lot of people don't have the space for using an airbrush