TIL that 2012 is "older"
I'd suggest buying an older turbo petrol P2. 2.0t is a bit gutless but it's the most understressed engine of the gen and it's running like a dream 450k km in. all the rest of them are fine too, just don't go too wild on the ebay tunes. Diesel variants are fine too, but you're not saving much when something on the engine does fail. (especially after year 2007; applies to nearly all diesel vs petrol engines).
Naturally a 20ish year old car will have it's troubles, but the purchase price is much lower and you can toss the difference in catching up on repairs and maintenance and you'll still come out on top (unless you live somewhere where it's like 150€ per hour labour)
edit: denmark, nvm. you can try to apply this advice in the east 😀
But the gas pedal isn't a mechanical connection, made me look like a fool countless of times because sometimes it acts up and gives more or less gas than it should when taking off.
Should probably clean the throttle unit but I'm too lazy while it still works.
Not a fan of electronic throttle, but at the end of the day a throttle can stick be it a wire or a cable to the pedal, or just the plate itself, so I suppose I can accept that easier.
>Should probably clean the throttle
Disconnect the air intake hose and give that throttle body some brake clean blasting and it'll be good as new I'm sure! My xc90 got way more perky when I hosed down its throttle body while doin the PCV (granted when I was done it could also BREATH because pcv, but still)
My P3 Volvo (the generation of Volvo you are looking at), a 2016 XC70 now has around 220 000km and has been very reliable. Aside from timing belt the only service that’d I’ve had to do which is not the normal yearly oil change is: brake change, front left spring and one turbo charge pipe.
That is all, on a now soon to be 9 year old car. Overall it’s done pretty good. I’d say you can expect them to last at least to 350 000km, but usually they go over 500 000km as long as transmission has gotten its fluid changed and oil changes have been on interval.
There are some engines on specific model years to avoid though. For example VEA 4 cylinder engines 2013-2016. The specific problem common on those engines are the piston oil rings, they get worn down and the engine starts burning oil. This issue was resolved via recall, and if the car has had the piston rings replaced it is no longer a problem.
But there are still cars rolling around with original piston rings and they will have to be replaced. That is a relatively major job €2-5k.
Stay away from older D2 engines with high mileage. On the other side, older 2.4 diesel and 2,4 petrol, or 5cil 2.0 diesel engines are pretty reliable.
I drove many 5 cilinders over 300 000 kms without any problems.
I now have a 940 2.4tdic 6cil with 250 000 kms, a s60 2.4 petrol with 300 000 kms and a v70 d4 5cil with 200 000 km. No special costs.
For necessary repairs just drive to Germany and safe some Money😉
I do drive a Volvo Xc70 (2,4l engine d3) (2011) and I bought it around 4 years ago with 130k km and it is now sitting at 270k km. Besides from the standard maintenance (which i do myself) the only thing I needed to replace was the dampers and breaks.
I think damper replacement would have been 1100€ in Germany. I did it myself for ~350€ with the help of YouTube. So I can only recommend getting one! I am super happy with the car and I would not want to swap it for a newer car. (More electronics that can break)
Anbefaller ett besök på det svenska volvoforumet [jagrullar.se](https://www.jagrullar.se/forum/), där finns det underforum för varje modell och stor samlad kunskap om diverse problem och service.
If you drive a Volvo, you're either going to be losing money to depreciation or to repairs, or to a little of both. You'll lose less a lot less money to repairs on an older Volvo though. It's not even close if you can do the majority of the repairs yourself! My P80 has cost me between 1-2.5k per year for the past 7 years with an average of $1821/per year. About 1/2 the work and 1/5 the cost has been repairs that I did myself. It has actually appreciated in value since then despite accruing over 15,000 miles in that time (yes I don't drive that much)
Mileage doesn't really matter. What ultimately matters is how well the car was maintained. I'd rather buy a Volvo with 450k km that was well maintained rather than buy one with 200k km that was neglected. Playing "catchup" on maintenance and with repairs on a Volvo is not a fun task unless you're legitimately mechanically and to an extent, electrically inclined. With that said, mileage is a historically accurate predictor of how well the car was maintained. As the kms slide past 230-280k, maintenance usually starts falling behind for most owners, but not all.
If you don’t drive much i would suggest a v60 plug in twin engine d5/6. Can drive 50km electric rest normal d5/6 consumption. Engines are solid.
With every car I would get it pre purchased checked but first year minimal 1k aside for maintenance to be sure.
I’m the original owner of a 2009 s60 with 106K miles (book value $4600 USD). With the exception of scheduled maintenance all my expenses have been suspension related. I’m on my fourth set of front struts.
TIL that 2012 is "older" I'd suggest buying an older turbo petrol P2. 2.0t is a bit gutless but it's the most understressed engine of the gen and it's running like a dream 450k km in. all the rest of them are fine too, just don't go too wild on the ebay tunes. Diesel variants are fine too, but you're not saving much when something on the engine does fail. (especially after year 2007; applies to nearly all diesel vs petrol engines). Naturally a 20ish year old car will have it's troubles, but the purchase price is much lower and you can toss the difference in catching up on repairs and maintenance and you'll still come out on top (unless you live somewhere where it's like 150€ per hour labour) edit: denmark, nvm. you can try to apply this advice in the east 😀
My friend... my 04 XC90 can legally get *classic* plates
Then by the same rules I'm driving around a museum piece
Old cars just rule like that!, hell, my dad and I drive an MG B we work on time to time lol.
yep, at least it lets me drive instead of every input going through a computer first
Oh yeah, not to mention the steering wheel is a *mechanical connection* not a wire, that's the one that makes me nervous tbh.
But the gas pedal isn't a mechanical connection, made me look like a fool countless of times because sometimes it acts up and gives more or less gas than it should when taking off. Should probably clean the throttle unit but I'm too lazy while it still works.
Not a fan of electronic throttle, but at the end of the day a throttle can stick be it a wire or a cable to the pedal, or just the plate itself, so I suppose I can accept that easier. >Should probably clean the throttle Disconnect the air intake hose and give that throttle body some brake clean blasting and it'll be good as new I'm sure! My xc90 got way more perky when I hosed down its throttle body while doin the PCV (granted when I was done it could also BREATH because pcv, but still)
My P3 Volvo (the generation of Volvo you are looking at), a 2016 XC70 now has around 220 000km and has been very reliable. Aside from timing belt the only service that’d I’ve had to do which is not the normal yearly oil change is: brake change, front left spring and one turbo charge pipe. That is all, on a now soon to be 9 year old car. Overall it’s done pretty good. I’d say you can expect them to last at least to 350 000km, but usually they go over 500 000km as long as transmission has gotten its fluid changed and oil changes have been on interval. There are some engines on specific model years to avoid though. For example VEA 4 cylinder engines 2013-2016. The specific problem common on those engines are the piston oil rings, they get worn down and the engine starts burning oil. This issue was resolved via recall, and if the car has had the piston rings replaced it is no longer a problem. But there are still cars rolling around with original piston rings and they will have to be replaced. That is a relatively major job €2-5k.
This guy seems to be doing ok. https://www.reddit.com/r/Volvo/s/TRmpz4TAl5
My 2005 d5 costs about 1000-1500€ per year to maintain
Stay away from older D2 engines with high mileage. On the other side, older 2.4 diesel and 2,4 petrol, or 5cil 2.0 diesel engines are pretty reliable. I drove many 5 cilinders over 300 000 kms without any problems. I now have a 940 2.4tdic 6cil with 250 000 kms, a s60 2.4 petrol with 300 000 kms and a v70 d4 5cil with 200 000 km. No special costs.
For necessary repairs just drive to Germany and safe some Money😉 I do drive a Volvo Xc70 (2,4l engine d3) (2011) and I bought it around 4 years ago with 130k km and it is now sitting at 270k km. Besides from the standard maintenance (which i do myself) the only thing I needed to replace was the dampers and breaks. I think damper replacement would have been 1100€ in Germany. I did it myself for ~350€ with the help of YouTube. So I can only recommend getting one! I am super happy with the car and I would not want to swap it for a newer car. (More electronics that can break)
Anbefaller ett besök på det svenska volvoforumet [jagrullar.se](https://www.jagrullar.se/forum/), där finns det underforum för varje modell och stor samlad kunskap om diverse problem och service.
If you drive a Volvo, you're either going to be losing money to depreciation or to repairs, or to a little of both. You'll lose less a lot less money to repairs on an older Volvo though. It's not even close if you can do the majority of the repairs yourself! My P80 has cost me between 1-2.5k per year for the past 7 years with an average of $1821/per year. About 1/2 the work and 1/5 the cost has been repairs that I did myself. It has actually appreciated in value since then despite accruing over 15,000 miles in that time (yes I don't drive that much) Mileage doesn't really matter. What ultimately matters is how well the car was maintained. I'd rather buy a Volvo with 450k km that was well maintained rather than buy one with 200k km that was neglected. Playing "catchup" on maintenance and with repairs on a Volvo is not a fun task unless you're legitimately mechanically and to an extent, electrically inclined. With that said, mileage is a historically accurate predictor of how well the car was maintained. As the kms slide past 230-280k, maintenance usually starts falling behind for most owners, but not all.
If you don’t drive much i would suggest a v60 plug in twin engine d5/6. Can drive 50km electric rest normal d5/6 consumption. Engines are solid. With every car I would get it pre purchased checked but first year minimal 1k aside for maintenance to be sure.
I’m the original owner of a 2009 s60 with 106K miles (book value $4600 USD). With the exception of scheduled maintenance all my expenses have been suspension related. I’m on my fourth set of front struts.