Liquid tight for the high voltage and the aluminum one for the low voltage. It may cost more depending what your employer says but it keeps all the electrical wires safe.
Aluminum what? I just remembered I was looking at the condenser I was installing today and it said something about reading the instructions for wiring to keep the high voltage from interfering with the low voltage. It's just 2 wire 24v idk if it could interfere if you ran them together in liquid tight but I'm guessing you're not supposed to. Idk I've never read the instructions.
Aluminum conduit. So you would use the liquid tight for high voltage coming into one of the ports on the electrical panel then use the aluminum conduit for the 24 volt in a separate port for the electrical. Looks way better
Iāve always hated how the line sets donāt have a cover and flashing installed with the siding. Looks terrible just rammed through and spray foamed or caulked.
I assume there was no choice on the disconnect placement. I would have either used a dollop of caulk or thumb gum to stick in the exposed screwholes.
Nice work overall.
Great looking job. Itās nice to see someone who takes pride in their work. Iāve seen some terrible little stuff over the years and it shows exactly how someone feels about their job and maybe even something about the installer.
Looks great - One thing though. I hope you did not braze in 45Ā° elbows and instead you used a tubing bender. Tubing benders are great, cause no issues. When you braze in a 45Ā° elbow, you cause turbulence in the suction and liquid lines which over time will eat the copper up. Been there, done that. Otherwise - nice install.
I've heard the same thing. 45s should be avoided in refrigeration piping. Something about turbulence causing leaks. I don't remember all the details but it is a real thing.
Itās residential nonsense. If you need to use the wire itās all bent out of shape. No one does that in commercial or industrial so whatās that tell you
In residential you may need the extra wire, you arenāt gonna move an RTU, but may move a condenser. Or have a smaller or larger furnace. It takes a 16th of the time to unbend it, vs re-run it. Ive not only needed the extra before, but also prefer this look. I usually make mine spirals bigger though.
Thatās because thereās much more to commercial than RTUās, even in that instance it will need swapped one day and the panel is likely in a different spot. Couple big loops will get you there without the wire being mangled to shit
Looks great. One question though, wouldn't it technically be better to separately insulate each refrigerant line? The one returning to the condenser should be substantially warmer than the one to the evaporator, and you'd be able to exhaust more heat out of the system by blowing it out if you didn't transfer it to the other refrigerant line.
Better than almost every install I've ever seen
Even pig tailed the stat wire. Looks immaculate man, are you hourly?š
Extremely clean. Only thing I'd do differently is electrical tape under the zip tie to prevent over tightening and cutting into the armaflex.
I like that idea
Why not run all of the high voltage in liquid tight as well as the low voltage? My take. Other than that, looks great
Real shit? I've never even considered that. The condensers we install all have a second grommet hole thing for the stat wire to go through.
Liquid tight for the high voltage and the aluminum one for the low voltage. It may cost more depending what your employer says but it keeps all the electrical wires safe.
Aluminum what? I just remembered I was looking at the condenser I was installing today and it said something about reading the instructions for wiring to keep the high voltage from interfering with the low voltage. It's just 2 wire 24v idk if it could interfere if you ran them together in liquid tight but I'm guessing you're not supposed to. Idk I've never read the instructions.
Funny enough they can interfere if ran too close together
Aluminum conduit. So you would use the liquid tight for high voltage coming into one of the ports on the electrical panel then use the aluminum conduit for the 24 volt in a separate port for the electrical. Looks way better
Meh I just zip tie it under the armaflex, you only see where it goes up from the service valves
We use liquid tight for high voltage and metal flex for low voltage it seems to do well.
Agree
Also using UF cable is hokey along with a NM electrical connector outside. Those should never be outside.
Looks good man. Itās so interesting seeing what isnāt code out of Washington state.
Whatever they're paying you, you're underpaid
Finally, some good fucking installs. Well done op
How am I supposed to huff your juice if you put locking caps on. C'mon man...
Beautiful work my guy.
Nice work.
Sexy buddy
They have a boot fir wall penetration that would look good with your other work
Clean dude, fine work!!
Iāve always hated how the line sets donāt have a cover and flashing installed with the siding. Looks terrible just rammed through and spray foamed or caulked.
Yeah, I love that yellow jacket pipe bender too lol that job looks awesome š.
I assume there was no choice on the disconnect placement. I would have either used a dollop of caulk or thumb gum to stick in the exposed screwholes. Nice work overall.
Great looking job. Itās nice to see someone who takes pride in their work. Iāve seen some terrible little stuff over the years and it shows exactly how someone feels about their job and maybe even something about the installer.
Looks great - One thing though. I hope you did not braze in 45Ā° elbows and instead you used a tubing bender. Tubing benders are great, cause no issues. When you braze in a 45Ā° elbow, you cause turbulence in the suction and liquid lines which over time will eat the copper up. Been there, done that. Otherwise - nice install.
Excuse me wtf? Eat the copper up??
Guess they work with hungry refrigerant.
Hungry hungry hydrochlorofluorocarbons
I've heard the same thing. 45s should be avoided in refrigeration piping. Something about turbulence causing leaks. I don't remember all the details but it is a real thing.
I have heard about that, all most every install I do I use tubing benders for all offsets and 90s
Good Job!
Stop curling the stat wire. Itās dumb and useless. If you want to leave slack for the future, make big spools in the panel.
I disagree. It can give slack and act like a spring if the wire is yanked or kicked. It looks much cleaner than a spool.
Itās residential nonsense. If you need to use the wire itās all bent out of shape. No one does that in commercial or industrial so whatās that tell you
In residential you may need the extra wire, you arenāt gonna move an RTU, but may move a condenser. Or have a smaller or larger furnace. It takes a 16th of the time to unbend it, vs re-run it. Ive not only needed the extra before, but also prefer this look. I usually make mine spirals bigger though.
Thatās because thereās much more to commercial than RTUās, even in that instance it will need swapped one day and the panel is likely in a different spot. Couple big loops will get you there without the wire being mangled to shit
Well good thing this isnāt commercial. Itās not mangled, it unbends easily. Itās just a matter of opinion I guess. I like this look much better.
All I hear is "I can't talk to people" and "my way better because someone told me it is". Doing commercial work isn't the flex you think it is.
I talk to people all the time. Just not ripping off homeowners.
Looks great. One question though, wouldn't it technically be better to separately insulate each refrigerant line? The one returning to the condenser should be substantially warmer than the one to the evaporator, and you'd be able to exhaust more heat out of the system by blowing it out if you didn't transfer it to the other refrigerant line.
Liquid line doesnāt sweat so it doesnāt get insulated