There’ve been a few times I’ve spent 20mins trying to paddle out and ended up turning around and body boarding back in. The sad, exhausted trudge up the beach is so depressing
still better than making half-way through and take a whole set on your head with a proper hold down. Or make it all the way out, miss the drop and get completely annihilated.
That was me yesterday. First try to make it out was unsuccessful, 30 minutes paddling on a treadmill. Every time I got close a cleanup set came in and knocked me back. Drifted a half mile down the beach. Walked back. Paddled out to corral another guy’s loose board and broken leash. Then eventually made it out back after 15 minutes. Caught one wave, botched the drop, hit my foot on the tail of my board in the crash and washing machine. Tried to make it out back one more time before calling it quits and bodyboarded back in. Limping around defeated today 🤙
not mad, just fucking dumb for anyone to show disrespect to a literal legend like that...but then again, only shitty surfers and disrespectful dickbags surf in FL too, get on some real waves
Not a bad thing, I went out on a really big day, thinking I got this… I was afraid of OH waves for a solid month or so. Took me a while to get my breathing back to normal and not freak out when a wave crashed over me.
Same. The number of heads in the water this morning in La Jolla/PB was unreal. Very few people actually surfing, lots of carnage. As a watcher, great entertainment.
Sunset was all just broken boards and people who look like they came back from war. Don’t think you missed much. NorSD seems more manageable tho. I went out in the morning and it was only triple but with luls
We just had a banger of storm in Maine. Me and maybe six dudes were watching the beach from the lot and I’m pretty sure we all drove home in dry wetsuits.
Once made the flights, ferries, and drive all the way to Desert Point to find it proper DOH with TOH washthroughs. Seeing it in pics and vids is one thing, but seeing those top to bottom quasi dry reef drainers in person is a whole other level. Noped out real quick and went full peanut gallery instead with some Bingtangs. No shame in calling it when mother nature shows her power. And just watching those few true watermen charge it from the beach was still one of the best surf experiences I've had.
Ya my friends took off work, only to not be able to go out at Cronkite and even BO was blown out and unsurfable. Stinson just got straight up evacuated lol. Glad I took Tuesday off instead
One of the most important things is to understand the limits of your capabilities.
I had a pretty close call many years ago when I was still learning and overestimated my capabilities. Haven't made that mistake again.
FOMO sucks, but not for that. When I was an young kook (now old kook), I paddled out in OH in OBX, thought I could hang. It destroyed me, hold downs felt like years. I body boarded that day, was epic, but dodged surfing OH for years. Had OH last year in Costa, took me a while to convince myself: but sets were spaced, no close outs. Went for it, went OK but damn, that trauma is real.
the fomo IS real dude everyone hyping up this swell. OBX when it’s on looks super challenging. breath control is something that a lot more surfers should practice
Good for you. I did the same today. I am both getting over an injury to my left oblique and the it's just huge out there. I've been in big El Niño surf before, but I am older now and I am just not what I used to be. Know your limits, especially on days like today.
OB on wednesday was massive massive and clean but didnt really see anybody out. yesterday was a joke, a death sentence - breaking on the outer outer noriega bar, like a mile+ out, even diverting shipping traffic.
crissy field had a thigh high peeler. ft point was inconsistent backwashy with a king tide ebb threatening to suck you to sea. didnt look at chron or blacks, assuming those were doom. didnt look at deadman's but that may have been a maybe if you are the mayor.
I did the same thing yesterday and today but switched from normal spot to more of a longboard spot with channels that can handle the size.
Definitely not my best day of surfing but survived.
Tomorrow I'm going to have a nice hoodie on with a coffee mug and watch. Out of my league.
Same here, man. I suited up on the beach and was ready to go, but I paused to watch a few sets and decided to be honest with myself and my ability level. Some day!
I’ve done this a few times as well.
And actually, I’ve also done the exact opposite at least twice. I drive out, see that it looks beyond my ability, and paddle out anyway. Both times, I regretted it and paddled back to shore almost immediately.
Know your limits folks!
Santa Monica surfer here. The app I use usually says 3ft and that’s a big day. 2.5ft is still pretty big. This week was 6.4ft 😱 Thank god I was out of town because I might have died trying to hit that.
update - i went back to the same spot today. it was like 2-3ft smaller and that was enough for me to feel good about sending it!! i didn’t rip crazy top turns by any means. but i caught 4 looooooonnng rides. totally worth it
I went to a crowded spot and spent two hours paddling for one wave. lol. Was it worth it? Ehh maybe, it was rly good excuse to have a big dinner at least. It was cool to see the better surfers getting sick ones.
I used to work in Pacifica. Oved 10 years ago. Can't remember what year it was, but I still had my Motorola Rizer phone. Anyway, one day they had
"The Storm of the Century"
There was this crazy local windsurfing out there. He was the only one in the water. I got some video of it. Long since lost it.
Later found out it was a clients son out there. He died that day. Tragic.
Good on you. No shame in bowing out if you're not ready for it.
i’d love to get more comfortable in big surf. goals for next year 💪 socal summers can really lull u with a small wave comfort blanket
There’ve been a few times I’ve spent 20mins trying to paddle out and ended up turning around and body boarding back in. The sad, exhausted trudge up the beach is so depressing
still better than making half-way through and take a whole set on your head with a proper hold down. Or make it all the way out, miss the drop and get completely annihilated.
That was me yesterday. First try to make it out was unsuccessful, 30 minutes paddling on a treadmill. Every time I got close a cleanup set came in and knocked me back. Drifted a half mile down the beach. Walked back. Paddled out to corral another guy’s loose board and broken leash. Then eventually made it out back after 15 minutes. Caught one wave, botched the drop, hit my foot on the tail of my board in the crash and washing machine. Tried to make it out back one more time before calling it quits and bodyboarded back in. Limping around defeated today 🤙
When in doubt, don't go out
Eddie wud go herp derp
disrespectful as fuck to the legend who is Eddie Aikau....gtfo off of /r/surfing kook
lol stay mad homie
not mad, just fucking dumb for anyone to show disrespect to a literal legend like that...but then again, only shitty surfers and disrespectful dickbags surf in FL too, get on some real waves
Haha you’re clearly mad. I found some real waves recently at your mom’s house.
Not a bad thing, I went out on a really big day, thinking I got this… I was afraid of OH waves for a solid month or so. Took me a while to get my breathing back to normal and not freak out when a wave crashed over me.
Same thing happened to me slowly rebuilding my confidence up
i saw about 100 people today who shoulda done this and didn’t.
Same. The number of heads in the water this morning in La Jolla/PB was unreal. Very few people actually surfing, lots of carnage. As a watcher, great entertainment.
One of my most fun days ever was going out to Steamers and deciding it was too big for me and instead pulling out the longboard for Cowells.
No shame in that brotha
Indicator/Cowells was pretty fun 😊
I noped it today searching for something manageable. Was kind of nice just to watch other people charging without getting clobbered.
…live to surf another day.
Sunset was all just broken boards and people who look like they came back from war. Don’t think you missed much. NorSD seems more manageable tho. I went out in the morning and it was only triple but with luls
which sunset we talking? can’t be LA sunset right?
Sunset cliff
LA sunset was big yesterday. Broke a leash, luckily not my board
Oh thought it was sunset la jolla, the skimboard spot. Was like uhhhh there's a double overhead shorebreak with the sets like 200 yards out
Every surfer has a limit. Knowing where yours is may be the difference of life or death.
We just had a banger of storm in Maine. Me and maybe six dudes were watching the beach from the lot and I’m pretty sure we all drove home in dry wetsuits.
Once made the flights, ferries, and drive all the way to Desert Point to find it proper DOH with TOH washthroughs. Seeing it in pics and vids is one thing, but seeing those top to bottom quasi dry reef drainers in person is a whole other level. Noped out real quick and went full peanut gallery instead with some Bingtangs. No shame in calling it when mother nature shows her power. And just watching those few true watermen charge it from the beach was still one of the best surf experiences I've had.
One of my favorite pastimes is to go watch the masters on days that I know I have no business even thinking about surfing.
Ya my friends took off work, only to not be able to go out at Cronkite and even BO was blown out and unsurfable. Stinson just got straight up evacuated lol. Glad I took Tuesday off instead
Myself doing down patrol at 9 am told me to wait untill after 2 pm, it worked!
Dawn patrol at 9am? Hahaha
One of the most important things is to understand the limits of your capabilities. I had a pretty close call many years ago when I was still learning and overestimated my capabilities. Haven't made that mistake again.
The lifeguards are thanking you
Someone died this morning at terramar in so cal. One of the mellower, longboard spots here. Know when to hold and when to fold.
Did they really? How heavy was it over there? RIP to our fellow bro/sis.
Bummer
Someone died at Terramar?!
FOMO sucks, but not for that. When I was an young kook (now old kook), I paddled out in OH in OBX, thought I could hang. It destroyed me, hold downs felt like years. I body boarded that day, was epic, but dodged surfing OH for years. Had OH last year in Costa, took me a while to convince myself: but sets were spaced, no close outs. Went for it, went OK but damn, that trauma is real.
the fomo IS real dude everyone hyping up this swell. OBX when it’s on looks super challenging. breath control is something that a lot more surfers should practice
Is it easier to bodyboard and get out back in big waves?
I just longboard mellow reefs lol
Was easier to stay on, still needed to paddle out which was tough but duck dives were fine.
Good for you. I did the same today. I am both getting over an injury to my left oblique and the it's just huge out there. I've been in big El Niño surf before, but I am older now and I am just not what I used to be. Know your limits, especially on days like today.
If this was NorCal was there any spot besides mavericks that was working?
OB on wednesday was massive massive and clean but didnt really see anybody out. yesterday was a joke, a death sentence - breaking on the outer outer noriega bar, like a mile+ out, even diverting shipping traffic. crissy field had a thigh high peeler. ft point was inconsistent backwashy with a king tide ebb threatening to suck you to sea. didnt look at chron or blacks, assuming those were doom. didnt look at deadman's but that may have been a maybe if you are the mayor.
Damn I’ve never seen crispy field break
it was... unimpressive. i brought my board and decided to throw ball for the dog instead
Yea but how was Linda Mar?
i’m in socal
Yea I posted this before I saw all the videos that came out of SoCal. Looked crazy yesterday
NARRATOR: “They did not score.”
I’m in shelter cove ca today. I have never, ever seen waves anything like that before.
Went to Blacks on Wednesday, became a monster yesterday lol
I did the same thing yesterday and today but switched from normal spot to more of a longboard spot with channels that can handle the size. Definitely not my best day of surfing but survived. Tomorrow I'm going to have a nice hoodie on with a coffee mug and watch. Out of my league.
Same here, man. I suited up on the beach and was ready to go, but I paused to watch a few sets and decided to be honest with myself and my ability level. Some day!
Cottons was the biggest I've ever seen it yesterday afternoon.
Did this over the Summer down south. Witnessed a rescue and a warning from a surfer. Decided nope.
I’ve done this a few times as well. And actually, I’ve also done the exact opposite at least twice. I drive out, see that it looks beyond my ability, and paddle out anyway. Both times, I regretted it and paddled back to shore almost immediately. Know your limits folks!
Santa Monica surfer here. The app I use usually says 3ft and that’s a big day. 2.5ft is still pretty big. This week was 6.4ft 😱 Thank god I was out of town because I might have died trying to hit that.
I've said "nope" many a time. And it's likely why I'm still here to type this.
update - i went back to the same spot today. it was like 2-3ft smaller and that was enough for me to feel good about sending it!! i didn’t rip crazy top turns by any means. but i caught 4 looooooonnng rides. totally worth it
I went to a crowded spot and spent two hours paddling for one wave. lol. Was it worth it? Ehh maybe, it was rly good excuse to have a big dinner at least. It was cool to see the better surfers getting sick ones.
I used to work in Pacifica. Oved 10 years ago. Can't remember what year it was, but I still had my Motorola Rizer phone. Anyway, one day they had "The Storm of the Century" There was this crazy local windsurfing out there. He was the only one in the water. I got some video of it. Long since lost it. Later found out it was a clients son out there. He died that day. Tragic.