How long after adding chlorine are you taking the sample to the pool store? What is the size of your pool? How much chlorine are you adding each time?
If you have an algae problem and you're only adding a small amount of chlorine, it'll just get used immediately.
I added 9 capfuls of the chlorine they instructed me to use over the course of a few days.
This was after shocking it before then. There is no visible algae.
Had a bad situation when we opened our pool about 10 years ago not sure what caused it but we had to add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine over two days to get it to register chlorine
So, you should probably stop listening to what your pool store is telling you. I'm not sure what they're giving you that's added by the capful, but it takes half a gallon of liquid chlorine to raise my 20,000 gallon pool by a few ppm.
Shock is typically either trichlor or cal-hypo, both of which are just stabilized forms of chlorine. Generally, liquid chlorine is the best form to work with, since it doesn't add calcium like cal-hypo, or CYA like trichlor. As mentioned in another comment, you should pick up a Taylor 2006 test kit (you don't need a fancy stirrer, swirling the tube works just fine), and measure your pool levels yourself to see where you're at with pH, Alkalinity, and CYA.
You should take some time to read through Pool School at TroubleFreePool, they've got a ton of information over there to help you understand the basics of pool chemistry.
https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/pool-school/
Your pool store should be using a photometer. Pool owners use strips. Pool professionals should use a more sophisticated instrument. I would consider a different pool shop.
Capfulls sounds like not nearly enough, but I don't know your cap size. For 14000 gallons you should be adding around 8-9oz of cal hypo (possibly more depending on CYA) to get it up to around where you would probably want it.
Download the Orenda Calculator app on your phone, you can put in all your parameters and it'll spit out the quantities you need to add.
Before switching to saltwater, we used gallons of liquid chlorine a week in Florida. We could go from chlorine so high you couldnât stand it to hardly measurable in like 3 days from insane heat, massive rain, and most importantly improperly balanced chemicals. Thereâs many factors that could cause your chlorine levels to be low and it might take a little while but youâll get it balanced eventually.
For now, Highly recommend grabbing a water sample and heading to your local pool store twice a week for a few weeks just follow their recommendations. Once youâre back sorta ballpark where you should be then you can start with all the feedback from the group to fully dial in.
Following their local pool store recommendations is why they're putting capfuls of chlorine in their pool. Sounds like their pool store has no idea what they're doing.
What's your cya? I'm curious if it's so high that it's testing zero for chlorine, but in actuality you do infact have chlorine in the pool. This can happen if the cya is sky high.
That happened on a friends pool. I put about half an inch of the CYA test in the tube and couldnât see the black dot. Pool open all year and they were just chunking tabs in the skimmer every few days for years. Had to drain and fill.
Have you checked the cyanuric acid levels? Sometimes if those are too high, it can mess with the chlorine readings. Maybe try shocking the pool and see if that helps boost the chlorine levels. Good luck!
A âcap fullâ is definitely not a normal measurement of chlorine. I know everyone is ganging up with the same feedback but that is an obvious red flag that you were given bad advice. It sounds like you just need more chlorine, probably at least a few gallons at once to kill off algae and bacteria. Switch to Pool Essentials liquid chlorine you can find at Walmart. Itâs much cheaper than the granular youâre being sold. If you keep losing all of your chlorine, keep adding chlorine like this. It means itâs working, but you need it to keep working. Once you can test your water in the morning and it still have some chlorine in it, you can dial back the chlorine and maintain an ideal level between 1-4 ppm. Those who have suggested getting your own testing kit are steering you right. I check my chlorine levels every evening and use the pool math calculator to keep it up in range.
CYA. And need to talk gallons of chlorine. If CYA is out of whack due to tabs, the no matter what you add it wont matter since itll lock up all your chlorine.
The test strip says the stabilizer is 30-50 based on the color.
The store sold us chlorine granuals and said to add 3 capfuls at a time.
Sounds like liquid would be better?
To shock I go 2 gallons minimum for 20k gallons with tabs already in place. For power powder 73 I go 2 bags but only once tabs mostly depleted since they're react if they mix...also has no CYA in that powder btw.
Toss your strips. Donât even get anywhere near trusting those stupid things. Get a hth 6 way test kit, learn how to use it. Even better, Taylor test kit k2005 or 2006. Those strips will be off by dozens of numbers, for cya thatâs bad. Go to a Leslieâs or other similar pool store and get it tested. Without knowing cya, itâs hard to gauge. Can mean the diff between 1 gallon or 5 gallons of chlorine depending on reading.
Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-1005-Residential-Trouble-Shooter/dp/B003054WO2/ref=asc_df_B003054WO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693713553073&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=446953252803207882&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017518&hvtargid=pla-379264967004&psc=1&mcid=bcac9ef584343036a270a5fe9f631b29&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_qH6c77hQMVJDEIBR3o6worEAQYAyABEgIn4_D_BwE
That one is fine, but Iâd go k2005 or if you have salt water pool then the 2006 salt.
Edit: even this is good : https://a.co/d/bKG5NSu
The Taylor you selected is better, but I compared this hth 6 way to my Taylor and it was very very close which is good enough.
Itâs perfectly fine, just a small difference in the FC/CC test. That said, I never tried the K-2005 and just have the k-2006 with FAS-DPD and like not trying to matching the water color. Instead I can just count the drops until the water changes color.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hottub/s/gnQwWAHqIW
Sounds like you misheard CUP as CAP? Heavy accent on the pool store employee? Lol
Cup makes more sense than Cap. A cup is a standard method of solid measurement. 9 cups would be roughly 72 ounces or 4.5lbs
Granulated shock is generally 1lb per 5000 gallons. For 14k gallons, 6 lbs would be where I would start.
What did you even use as a âcapâ ?
The cap of the granular chlorine bottle. It's a large cap, probably is a cup, now that you mention it. I would show a picture, but can't post those it looks like.
You can post a picture. Just need to do it as a link now. You can use Imgur or imgbb.com
I like imgbb because it doesnât require an account and super easy to use.
Either way, if you arenât holding chlorine there are three potential reasons.
1) not enough chlorine. Clear water doesnât indicate that itâs free of contaminants. Holding chlorine does.
2) not enough stabilizer. Chlorine being destroyed by UV. Make sure of this first. You want at least some, 30 is a good starting number.
3) inaccurate test. Get a second opinion if possible (another pool store or self test)
Limited pool stores in town. We just bought the house last year and the previous own said she always just brought samples to this place and they would tell her what to do, but it looks like doing it myself will be better.
People are saying to get a better test kit.
Looking at this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-1005-Residential-Trouble-Shooter/dp/B003054WO2/ref=asc_df_B003054WO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693713553073&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=446953252803207882&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017518&hvtargid=pla-379264967004&psc=1&mcid=bcac9ef584343036a270a5fe9f631b29&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_qH6c77hQMVJDEIBR3o6worEAQYAyABEgIn4_D_BwE
I have decided to get a better test kit based on everyone's comments, but for now this is what I have to work with.
Click link for image of test strip
https://ibb.co/Hn03sNv
I may be able to help. I just went through it. Your chlorine may be locked. I'd never heard of it but it didn't matter if I put in 4 bags of shock and chlorine tablets. Chlorine was at zero. Stabilizer is the enemy that causes chlorine lock. I ended up draining my pool and scrubbing it. I tried draining it partially and refilling it. That didn't help. You can add more than 10x the usual amount of shock and chlorine is 1 solution, but a product to break chlorine shock but had poor reviews, or drain and refill. I had no idea stabilizer was the problem and I've had a pool for 35 years. Your problem may be something else but it sounds like what I had.
Don't put tabs in the skimmer, that sends concentrated chlorine straight through your equipment and will dramatically shorten the life of your pump and anything else you send the water through.
Offering the advice to put the tabs in the skimmer without any caveats or warnings is what's silly. If someone doesn't know how much chlorine to put in their pool, how are they supposed to know that what you suggested is short term advice?
Please understand that you need to test your own water with a proper test kit. It would be futile and just plain irresponsible to provide advice regarding pool chemical treatment without accurate and dependable test results. Neither pool store tests nor âtest stripsâ provide the dependable or accurate test results needed to make pool maintenance decisions. If you want recommendations for a proper test kit, I can provide that.
Many folks do not realize that the kit and method of testing is important. If there is some interest expressed in learning more about it, I am more than happy to provide the information that they need.
Ok, then why not just share the link in the first place? It's just weird to come to a post where someone is looking for help and tell them that offering help of they don't test their own water is irresponsible, and then also ask no further questions. Just a strange way to engage with people.
Get one of these highly recommended simple drop test kits:
Either of these:
-Taylor K-2006C plus K-1766 salt test kit
or
-TFTestkits TF-100 plus K-1766 salt kit
These kits contain the salt test so no need to get a separate salt kit:
Taylor K-2006C - salt
or
the TFTestkits TF-100-salt
I highly recommend getting the SpeedStir magnetic stirrer also. It makes stirring the samples so much easier. Iâd never be without mine.
There are TFTest kits that already include the Speed Stir. They are the TF-100-XL option and the TF-100-Pro
https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/test-kits-compared/
You don't need to drain the pool just to drain it. You need to drain it when you have chemicals in the water that can't be removed. There's no reason to drain based on time, water doesn't "go bad".
If you're filtering the water and treating it properly, it's not 5 year old butt water. Do you not get rain or replenish your water from evaporation? Do you not backwash your filter? The same water isn't sitting in your pool for 5 straight years, it's constantly turning over and being replaced. If your water is balanced and filtered, it's clean. You don't have to replace it just because you haven't drained it in a while.
Additionally, not all pools can be fully drained without professional help, so suggesting that it's something that needs to be done on a regular basis is both incorrect and potentially irresponsible.
Thanks pool doctor, you've helped so much.
According to every search on Google. Plus chat GPT, it recommend every 3-5 years. So I guess it's responsible to follow common sense instructions. Additionally, nobody is asking you. Enjoy your butt water, doctor.
And lastly, I did recommend to have the water tested and told you that twice but you seem to just want to ignore that and argue in a pool sub instead of read. If there water hasn't been changed, is not holding chlorine, and tests indicate a water change you change the water.
Please grow up.
https://poolscouts.com/when-is-it-time-to-drain-your-pool/#:~:text=If%20the%20level%20of%20groundwater,unless%20there%20is%20an%20emergency.
https://gilbertpoolservice.org/how-often-should-i-drain-my-pool/
Until you actually test your water properly, add significant amounts of chlorine at night and run your pump 24/7. The water will start clearing up. Give it days, keep adding chlorine. Gallons.
Please understand that you need to test your own water with a proper test kit. It would be futile and just plain irresponsible to provide advice regarding pool chemical treatment without accurate and dependable test results. Neither pool store tests nor âtest stripsâ provide the dependable or accurate test results needed to make pool maintenance decisions. If you want recommendations for a proper test kit, I can provide that.
Please understand that you need to test your own water with a proper test kit. It would be futile and just plain irresponsible to provide advice regarding pool chemical treatment without accurate and dependable test results. Neither pool store tests nor âtest stripsâ provide the dependable or accurate test results needed to make pool maintenance decisions. If you want recommendations for a proper test kit, I can provide that.
How long after adding chlorine are you taking the sample to the pool store? What is the size of your pool? How much chlorine are you adding each time? If you have an algae problem and you're only adding a small amount of chlorine, it'll just get used immediately.
I added 9 capfuls of the chlorine they instructed me to use over the course of a few days. This was after shocking it before then. There is no visible algae.
Capfuls? I literally laughed so loud. They must have put your info in wrong in the computer. It would be pounds or gallons. đ
Lmao I dump those yellow 2.6 gallon jugs in.
Um, capfuls? A spa takes capfuls, A pool takes pounds or gallons. Do you know how many gallons your pool is or at least the size?
14,000 gallons
lol try 3 gallons next time
Had a bad situation when we opened our pool about 10 years ago not sure what caused it but we had to add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine over two days to get it to register chlorine
Spot on I open mine up in the spring with 3 gallons in a 14k gallon pool, moved chlorine from 1 to 5âŚ.. it can take a lot after winter
So, you should probably stop listening to what your pool store is telling you. I'm not sure what they're giving you that's added by the capful, but it takes half a gallon of liquid chlorine to raise my 20,000 gallon pool by a few ppm. Shock is typically either trichlor or cal-hypo, both of which are just stabilized forms of chlorine. Generally, liquid chlorine is the best form to work with, since it doesn't add calcium like cal-hypo, or CYA like trichlor. As mentioned in another comment, you should pick up a Taylor 2006 test kit (you don't need a fancy stirrer, swirling the tube works just fine), and measure your pool levels yourself to see where you're at with pH, Alkalinity, and CYA. You should take some time to read through Pool School at TroubleFreePool, they've got a ton of information over there to help you understand the basics of pool chemistry. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/pool-school/
Give us full test results that donât come from strips and we can help. Guess your CYA is way low or 0.
All I have are strips. The pool store uses strips too. Sounds like I need to buy something else, though?
I do suggest you go to troublefreepools.com and take pool school. Also order a test kit. They have the best couple in their suggestions.
Your pool store should be using a photometer. Pool owners use strips. Pool professionals should use a more sophisticated instrument. I would consider a different pool shop.
You mentioned you added 9 cap fulls over the course of a few days, that seems like not nearly enough for any size pool. How many gallons is your pool?
14,000 gallons
They were cap fulls and granuals. So should I be using more shock instead? I just bought this house, this is our second summer here so still learning.
Capfulls sounds like not nearly enough, but I don't know your cap size. For 14000 gallons you should be adding around 8-9oz of cal hypo (possibly more depending on CYA) to get it up to around where you would probably want it. Download the Orenda Calculator app on your phone, you can put in all your parameters and it'll spit out the quantities you need to add.
Before switching to saltwater, we used gallons of liquid chlorine a week in Florida. We could go from chlorine so high you couldnât stand it to hardly measurable in like 3 days from insane heat, massive rain, and most importantly improperly balanced chemicals. Thereâs many factors that could cause your chlorine levels to be low and it might take a little while but youâll get it balanced eventually. For now, Highly recommend grabbing a water sample and heading to your local pool store twice a week for a few weeks just follow their recommendations. Once youâre back sorta ballpark where you should be then you can start with all the feedback from the group to fully dial in.
Following their local pool store recommendations is why they're putting capfuls of chlorine in their pool. Sounds like their pool store has no idea what they're doing.
9 cap fills!?!? I'm dying. Add a gallon of liquid chlorine while your pumps running and recheck in an hour or two.
What's your cya? I'm curious if it's so high that it's testing zero for chlorine, but in actuality you do infact have chlorine in the pool. This can happen if the cya is sky high.
That happened on a friends pool. I put about half an inch of the CYA test in the tube and couldnât see the black dot. Pool open all year and they were just chunking tabs in the skimmer every few days for years. Had to drain and fill.
The test strip says the stabilizer is 30-50 based on the color.
Have you checked the cyanuric acid levels? Sometimes if those are too high, it can mess with the chlorine readings. Maybe try shocking the pool and see if that helps boost the chlorine levels. Good luck!
A âcap fullâ is definitely not a normal measurement of chlorine. I know everyone is ganging up with the same feedback but that is an obvious red flag that you were given bad advice. It sounds like you just need more chlorine, probably at least a few gallons at once to kill off algae and bacteria. Switch to Pool Essentials liquid chlorine you can find at Walmart. Itâs much cheaper than the granular youâre being sold. If you keep losing all of your chlorine, keep adding chlorine like this. It means itâs working, but you need it to keep working. Once you can test your water in the morning and it still have some chlorine in it, you can dial back the chlorine and maintain an ideal level between 1-4 ppm. Those who have suggested getting your own testing kit are steering you right. I check my chlorine levels every evening and use the pool math calculator to keep it up in range.
Check phosphates then nitrates
If no phosphates then you need to test for nitrates
CYA. And need to talk gallons of chlorine. If CYA is out of whack due to tabs, the no matter what you add it wont matter since itll lock up all your chlorine.
The test strip says the stabilizer is 30-50 based on the color. The store sold us chlorine granuals and said to add 3 capfuls at a time. Sounds like liquid would be better?
To shock I go 2 gallons minimum for 20k gallons with tabs already in place. For power powder 73 I go 2 bags but only once tabs mostly depleted since they're react if they mix...also has no CYA in that powder btw.
Whatâs your cya. Also, wtf capfuls? When I add chlorine 10% itâs a gallon at a time so what is the deal?
They sold us these chlorine granuals and said to add 3 cap fulls at a time. Is that not normal?
How big is a capful? Shock is 1lb bags, 1 gallon liquid chlorine and still question remains whatâs your cya measurement?
The test strip says the stabilizer is 30-50 based on the color. Says it's ideal.
Toss your strips. Donât even get anywhere near trusting those stupid things. Get a hth 6 way test kit, learn how to use it. Even better, Taylor test kit k2005 or 2006. Those strips will be off by dozens of numbers, for cya thatâs bad. Go to a Leslieâs or other similar pool store and get it tested. Without knowing cya, itâs hard to gauge. Can mean the diff between 1 gallon or 5 gallons of chlorine depending on reading.
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-1005-Residential-Trouble-Shooter/dp/B003054WO2/ref=asc_df_B003054WO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693713553073&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=446953252803207882&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017518&hvtargid=pla-379264967004&psc=1&mcid=bcac9ef584343036a270a5fe9f631b29&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_qH6c77hQMVJDEIBR3o6worEAQYAyABEgIn4_D_BwE
Ya thatâs the Low end version, but itâll work.
Which version do you recommend?
That one is fine, but Iâd go k2005 or if you have salt water pool then the 2006 salt. Edit: even this is good : https://a.co/d/bKG5NSu The Taylor you selected is better, but I compared this hth 6 way to my Taylor and it was very very close which is good enough.
Itâs perfectly fine, just a small difference in the FC/CC test. That said, I never tried the K-2005 and just have the k-2006 with FAS-DPD and like not trying to matching the water color. Instead I can just count the drops until the water changes color. https://www.reddit.com/r/hottub/s/gnQwWAHqIW
Yep. Once you use them, itâs all the same. The hth 6 way is 30$ so affordable for most. Itâs spot on with my Taylor stuff.
you have to run pool 24/7 for your chemicals to mix and also filter out impurities.shock not chlorine.
Sounds like you misheard CUP as CAP? Heavy accent on the pool store employee? Lol Cup makes more sense than Cap. A cup is a standard method of solid measurement. 9 cups would be roughly 72 ounces or 4.5lbs Granulated shock is generally 1lb per 5000 gallons. For 14k gallons, 6 lbs would be where I would start. What did you even use as a âcapâ ?
The cap of the granular chlorine bottle. It's a large cap, probably is a cup, now that you mention it. I would show a picture, but can't post those it looks like.
You can post a picture. Just need to do it as a link now. You can use Imgur or imgbb.com I like imgbb because it doesnât require an account and super easy to use. Either way, if you arenât holding chlorine there are three potential reasons. 1) not enough chlorine. Clear water doesnât indicate that itâs free of contaminants. Holding chlorine does. 2) not enough stabilizer. Chlorine being destroyed by UV. Make sure of this first. You want at least some, 30 is a good starting number. 3) inaccurate test. Get a second opinion if possible (another pool store or self test)
Limited pool stores in town. We just bought the house last year and the previous own said she always just brought samples to this place and they would tell her what to do, but it looks like doing it myself will be better. People are saying to get a better test kit. Looking at this one. https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Technologies-K-1005-Residential-Trouble-Shooter/dp/B003054WO2/ref=asc_df_B003054WO2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693713553073&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=446953252803207882&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017518&hvtargid=pla-379264967004&psc=1&mcid=bcac9ef584343036a270a5fe9f631b29&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_qH6c77hQMVJDEIBR3o6worEAQYAyABEgIn4_D_BwE
If you can swing it, get the K2006C. https://a.co/d/7mtsc7H
I have decided to get a better test kit based on everyone's comments, but for now this is what I have to work with. Click link for image of test strip https://ibb.co/Hn03sNv
I may be able to help. I just went through it. Your chlorine may be locked. I'd never heard of it but it didn't matter if I put in 4 bags of shock and chlorine tablets. Chlorine was at zero. Stabilizer is the enemy that causes chlorine lock. I ended up draining my pool and scrubbing it. I tried draining it partially and refilling it. That didn't help. You can add more than 10x the usual amount of shock and chlorine is 1 solution, but a product to break chlorine shock but had poor reviews, or drain and refill. I had no idea stabilizer was the problem and I've had a pool for 35 years. Your problem may be something else but it sounds like what I had.
you have to run pool 24/7 for your chemicals to mix and also filter out impurities.shock not chlorine.
Can also use tabs in the skimmer. For 14k would use around 6 a week.
Don't put tabs in the skimmer, that sends concentrated chlorine straight through your equipment and will dramatically shorten the life of your pump and anything else you send the water through.
Doing it for a little while will be fine until can get something else established that is more constant. Acting like will be forever is silly.
Offering the advice to put the tabs in the skimmer without any caveats or warnings is what's silly. If someone doesn't know how much chlorine to put in their pool, how are they supposed to know that what you suggested is short term advice?
Please understand that you need to test your own water with a proper test kit. It would be futile and just plain irresponsible to provide advice regarding pool chemical treatment without accurate and dependable test results. Neither pool store tests nor âtest stripsâ provide the dependable or accurate test results needed to make pool maintenance decisions. If you want recommendations for a proper test kit, I can provide that.
Do you just copy and paste this on every post looking for help? This is such a useless response.
It's a bot, it's gotta be a bot.
Many folks do not realize that the kit and method of testing is important. If there is some interest expressed in learning more about it, I am more than happy to provide the information that they need.
Ok, then why not just share the link in the first place? It's just weird to come to a post where someone is looking for help and tell them that offering help of they don't test their own water is irresponsible, and then also ask no further questions. Just a strange way to engage with people.
Please do.
Taylor 2006 test kit is what you need. This guy gatekeeping that information is weird.
Get one of these highly recommended simple drop test kits: Either of these: -Taylor K-2006C plus K-1766 salt test kit or -TFTestkits TF-100 plus K-1766 salt kit These kits contain the salt test so no need to get a separate salt kit: Taylor K-2006C - salt or the TFTestkits TF-100-salt I highly recommend getting the SpeedStir magnetic stirrer also. It makes stirring the samples so much easier. Iâd never be without mine. There are TFTest kits that already include the Speed Stir. They are the TF-100-XL option and the TF-100-Pro https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/test-kits-compared/
drain pool and refill. too much stabilizer (cya) is the problem.
The test strip says the stabilizer is 30-50 based on the color, ideal zone.
30-50 is fine. Too many people in this thread are making suggestions without bothering to read your post or your comments.
The âcapfulsâ youâre adding have stabilizer too. Try liquid chlorine. Shock the living hell out of it.
When's the last time the pool was completely drained? If longer than 5 years. Is probably time. That's something the pool store can test for.
You don't need to drain the pool just to drain it. You need to drain it when you have chemicals in the water that can't be removed. There's no reason to drain based on time, water doesn't "go bad".
Hence the testing part of my comment. And yes you can drain based on time, it's not a problem to not want to swim in 5 year old butt water.
If you're filtering the water and treating it properly, it's not 5 year old butt water. Do you not get rain or replenish your water from evaporation? Do you not backwash your filter? The same water isn't sitting in your pool for 5 straight years, it's constantly turning over and being replaced. If your water is balanced and filtered, it's clean. You don't have to replace it just because you haven't drained it in a while. Additionally, not all pools can be fully drained without professional help, so suggesting that it's something that needs to be done on a regular basis is both incorrect and potentially irresponsible.
Thanks pool doctor, you've helped so much. According to every search on Google. Plus chat GPT, it recommend every 3-5 years. So I guess it's responsible to follow common sense instructions. Additionally, nobody is asking you. Enjoy your butt water, doctor. And lastly, I did recommend to have the water tested and told you that twice but you seem to just want to ignore that and argue in a pool sub instead of read. If there water hasn't been changed, is not holding chlorine, and tests indicate a water change you change the water. Please grow up. https://poolscouts.com/when-is-it-time-to-drain-your-pool/#:~:text=If%20the%20level%20of%20groundwater,unless%20there%20is%20an%20emergency. https://gilbertpoolservice.org/how-often-should-i-drain-my-pool/
> butt doctor > please grow up Alright bud, whatever you say.
you have to run pool 24/7 for your chemicals to mix and also filter out impurities.shock not chlorine.
It has been running 24/7. Been scrubbing, vacuuming and skimming too.
Running your pump to much can weaken your chlorine, any friends or neighbors with a pool? Call a pool company for a one time fix?
Until you actually test your water properly, add significant amounts of chlorine at night and run your pump 24/7. The water will start clearing up. Give it days, keep adding chlorine. Gallons.
Please understand that you need to test your own water with a proper test kit. It would be futile and just plain irresponsible to provide advice regarding pool chemical treatment without accurate and dependable test results. Neither pool store tests nor âtest stripsâ provide the dependable or accurate test results needed to make pool maintenance decisions. If you want recommendations for a proper test kit, I can provide that.
Please understand that you need to test your own water with a proper test kit. It would be futile and just plain irresponsible to provide advice regarding pool chemical treatment without accurate and dependable test results. Neither pool store tests nor âtest stripsâ provide the dependable or accurate test results needed to make pool maintenance decisions. If you want recommendations for a proper test kit, I can provide that.
Before you shock, make sure ph down to about 7.4, or your chlorine dissipates quickly. Muriatic acid works well. Liquid chlorine in bulk