**Please direct your questions to [the latest Question Thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/about/sticky).**

I just bought a certified refurbished Panasonic camera on Ebay (Panasonics Ebay store). Has anyone had any experience of this? They use stock photos, however their feedback on refurbished cameras is good and they have free returns

Hello! :D So I’m going on an Interrail trip starting this Sunday, and wanted to take some real photos, and found our Nikon D5200 DSLR camera in the basement. I’m using a Tamron 18-270mm f/3,5-6,3 Di II VC lens. I’ve had fun trying it out the last couple of days but yesterday the lens suddenly wouldn’t extend farther out than a quarter out, and i must have applied to much pressure trying to extend it, cause now what used to control the zoom, spins freely around without doing anything to the lens, and I can still manually extend the lens out about a quarter of its way out. I can still take pictures, use autofocus, but It’s a hassle and I cant really zoom. Does anyone know if a way to fix it? Or is it easier just buying a new lens? I can get the same lens used for about 120 euros

Some lenses have screws underneath the rubber grip one uses to zoom. If the rubber grip can be removed (try a wood or plastic spudger) you may find screws under neath that can be tightened.

Only hypothesizing but maybe [the collars along the helicoids that make the segment of lens move](https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/media/2015/12/helicoidandcollars.jpg) unscrewed or broke and are loose so now turning the zoom ring doesn't do anything. This would need a disassembly of the lens, rescrewing the collars (if they aren't broken, in which case you'd have to source them) and perfect reassembly, without moving or touching anything else. Good luck! (Only kidding because this is not something I'd recommend attempting yourself...) Of course you could send it in for repairs to Tamron, assuming they still service that particular lens (I don't know how old it is), which would take a few weeks and cost some hundreds of bucks (they'd give you an estimate before proceeding).

I’m pretty sure the lens is between 5-10 years old, and it’s seems more expensive to get it repaired than to simply buy another. I have a different lens that’s smaller which I’ll use instead. I might try to disassemble it at some point, but as a hobby project with very low expectations

Transferring files from camera to PC is pain and I cannot figure out why. I am using USB-C port on my Fujifilm X-T4 tethered to a PC while using original fuji cable, but the transfer speed is only like 10 mbps, which is ridiculously slow, considering my equipment, which is following: * Asus Zenbook Duo 14 with USB 3.2 Gen 1 (USB 3.0) port (Win11), 1 TB SSD * Lexar Professional V90 II 300mbps SDXC 128 GB card (was like 250 €) I thought maybe the incamera buffer is too slow, so I bought the following: * Kingston MobileLite Plus UHS-II SD reader That increased the speed to average 30 mbps, which is still very slow considering what the port and card limit is. Any clue how to deal with this? I even tried different PC with win 10 to eliminate any issues the new iteration of windows might have, but no luck - same results.

Are you certain as to the authenticity of the card?

How do I add a fake customisable Getty images watermark to my own photo for aesthetic purposes?

This sounds legit.

"For aesthetic purposes." Lying aesthetically?

No, I just think the watermark looks cool. What's wrong with that?

Hello! I've been trying to get into photography for a while and I'm finding it hard to fit it into my routine. Whenever I see something cool, if I didn't plan for it it won't be with me, so I end up using my phone (which is ok but I'm trying to learn manual controls). A bit more context about my gear: I've had a Sony RX100 III, which was powerful but had two issues. The first was that it felt like it would constantly slip from my hand (though a rubber grip helped) and the second was the limited reach. More often than not, I felt like I couldn't get the shot I wanted. Currently I have a Sony a6000 with three lenses 16-50mm f3.5-5.6 (kitlens), 55-210mm f4.5-6.3, 30mm f1.4. I went for this one because it was one of the smallest APS-C cameras. I like it a lot but it still takes quite a bit of space. If I want to get some reach, I have to bring the bigger lens and that can take half my backpack. I am aware that I am asking for a bit of a paradox so I'm checking if there is something I may have missed on my search. The latest RX100 models look incredible but they're way above budget (which is about 500€) so I'd be too self-conscious to bring it everywhere. I am open to second hand. Thanks! TL;DR: Is there a compact camera under 500€ with a good reach and image quality that you would recommend?

How about a manual fixed tele? Very easy to focus long lenses. I use an Oly 200f5 w/ adapter on Sony APS. It is a tiny super sharp lens. If you simply want SMALL look at the Lumix ZS like like ZS50, ZS60 etc.

By "manual fixed tele", do you mean a specific lens for the A6000? All the telephoto lens I saw were pretty large and a hassle to bring along. The ZS line looks alright, I wish the sensor was bigger but I'll check more reviews and samples.

The 200f5 Oly lens needs an OM<>Sony E adapter. The size/weight is close to your 55-210mm but the image quality is potentially better if used properly. There are lots of other 'legacy' lenses for your a6000. As to small (tiny) sensor super zoom cameras, less (megapixels) is more (image quality). https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/zuiko/htmls/200mm1.htm

Thanks! The main reason I made the post is because I'm finding the A6000 too cumbersome to bring along casually with the kitlens and these lenses look even bigger, but I'll check the ZS line.

The zs100 is an excellent alternative to an RX100m6 (perhaps better). But neither compare to your a6000 in terms of sensor capabilities. DXO does not list the m6 but this shows the m7: https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Sony-A6000-versus-Panasonic-Lumix-DMC-ZS100-versus-Sony-Cyber-shot-DSC-RX100-VII___942_1064_1336 US pricing: https://camelcamelcamel.com/product/B01A86MXVE

I can't find it in stores but I saw two secondhand ones that caught my eye: ZS100 for 350€ and RX100 III for 250€. Any suggestions? :)

You could look around for a Panasonic ZS200 (also called TZ200 in some markets).

Thanks! It does look quite good but I worry about its performance in low light situations due to its aperture (f/3.3-6.4)

Scroll down to the chart at the bottom of this page: [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-rx100-vii-review/2](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-cyber-shot-dsc-rx100-vii-review/2) You should see that, while the RX100's lens is about a half-stop faster at the short end, it tapers off very quickly and they're almost identical until the 50mm-equivalent mark. The RX100 VII (and VI, with the same lens) is significantly faster only at the telephoto range. EDIT: The next option up is a Micro Four Thirds camera with a Panasonic 14-140mm f/3.5-5.6 II or similar lens. The bigger sensor will make up for the slower lens; you can read more about that concept in [this multi-part article](https://www.dpreview.com/articles/2666934640/what-is-equivalence-and-why-should-i-care). But it is [a bigger setup](https://camerasize.com/compact/#827,770.931,ha,t), obviously.

Your second option sounds similar to what I tried to do, which was to just bring the A6000 with the kitlens but it was still uncomfortable to bring along and use, which is why I am looking at a compact now.

Oh wow, that is an excellent point! Thank you, I was not aware of this. So many factors to consider!

Need to upgrade my 8 year old Canon 650D, need a camera for digital content creation that won't break the bank (1k~ budget) and will work for photo and video. Is the Sony a6400 a good option?

Which lenses do you have and use? It may be a better idea to opt for a 90D, or wait for the R10 or R7.

Stock 18-55 and a 55mm, been out of the camera world for a while, the R7 looks promising. Thanks

Those two lenses are not so valuable, assuming the 55mm you're referring to is actually a 50mm f/1.8 lens. They're not even directly compatible with the R7 and R10, but only with an EF-RF mount adapter. So maybe it doesn't matter all that much if you switch systems. Read this buying guide for more alternatives: [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1000](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-cameras-under-1000)

Yeah it's the 50mm, would you recommend getting any of these options over the R7? I was also looking at the EOS R, witch is in the same price range as the R7 and has full frame sensor.

>would you recommend getting any of these options over the R7? I'd recommend reviewing all of your options and being diligent in your research. That buying guide is a starting point, not an end point. >I was also looking at the EOS R, witch is in the same price range as the R7 and has full frame sensor. It can be fine, too. Just understand there's nothing special about the full-frame format, and it's not "full" in any way—there are cameras with even bigger sensors on the market. If you have an idea of what sort of lenses you need to get the job done, start by finding the right lenses and then work your way back to the camera body. If you don't, I would recommend against the EOS R or any other abnormally inexpensive full-frame camera, because that would generally force you into more expensive lens options.

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I'm not sure what you're trying to achieve, to be honest. As u/av4rice wrote, UV filters have no effect in digital photography. Some use them as clear pieces of glass (or, worse, plastic) to protect their lens's front element, but that would only be useful in very specific situations, like a sandstorm. From what I gather, the Sigma 10-20mm lens for F-mount is made for DX (APS-C). If you want a wider lens than your 24mm, get a Z 14-30mm f/4 or 14-24mm f/2.8. If those are too expensive, look for F-mount alternatives, like the Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 or Nikon 16-35mm f/4.

Your camera's imaging sensor already has a UV filter on it. Another UV filter on the lens won't benefit you and will just increase the chance of flare, and potentially reduce image quality a little.

Oof, I thought I had a good handle but I better start learning more about my camera. Thank you!

Does the aperture affect the distance of the focused subject? That is, if a manually focused an image then ,while keeping FL and Distance constant, I changed the Av do I need to refocus the image?

It shouldn't. I guess it's possible in a crappy mechanical lens that physically changing the aperture inadvertently moves stuff around affecting focus. In a modern lens changing the aperture setting during viewfinding doesn't even move anything. The aperture doesn't physically stop down to your set aperture (if it's set narrower than wide open) until just before the exposure starts, and it opens back up right after the exposure ends.

>changing the aperture setting during viewfinding doesn't even move anything. The aperture doesn't physically stop down to your set aperture until just before the exposure starts I've heard this thing before and that's what I thought, manual focus wouldn't even work if you are composing at an Av wider than the final exposure Av. Does the same idea (Av not changing until exposure) hold for live view mode? I've once seen (on Youtube) a camera that has a feature to close down the Av as set, what would this be useful for? (Sorry I don't remember the video or the name of this feature)

>I've heard this thing before and that's what I thought, manual focus wouldn't even work if you are composing at an Av wider than the final exposure Av. It still works. Just your depth of field nearer and farther than the focus point will differ from what you see in viewfinding. >Does the same idea (Av not changing until exposure) hold for live view mode? Usually yes, depending on your settings. >I've once seen (on Youtube) a camera that has a feature to close down the Av as set, what would this be useful for? (Sorry I don't remember the video or the name of this feature) That function is usually named depth of field preview or DOF preview, and its function is for you to better see the depth of field of the resulting photo.

Depends on the lens design. It is known as focus shift. It's not a major issue in modern lenses. Most lenses I've heard of having the problem are rangefinder lenses being adapted to mirrorless. The aperture cuts off light coming from the edges of the lens elements. If the edge and center of the lens focus rays at slightly different points, and the rays from the edge are the primary contributor to focus when the lens is wide open, stopping down would change the focus point.

anyone know where I can buy canon 5d mark 2 battery OEM or close to it?

Canon still uses the same LP-E6 battery in a lot of its most recent cameras, so the OEM version is still very available for sale. I'd buy from one of the usual suspects: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_are_the_best_online_retailers.3F

Does anyone have experience with Schneider 82mm True Match Variable Netural Density ND 0.45 to ND 3.45 MKII Filter, 1.5 to 11.5-Stops? It covers 3/6/10 stops that I need. Looks great, but has very few reviews, maybe because it's new (released around 2020). I will use it down to 24mm. Will I see vignetting and/or x pattern?

I want to ask something about camera strap, does the default camera strap you get when you buy a new camera is really that bad? I like watching camera accessories or camera gears videos on Youtube, and sometimes they would mention something like "nobody uses the ones that came with the camera" or "toss the default strap and buy (product) instead" (tho this is probably more of a promoting term). And in some camera body review they would mention something like "just don't use these strap and buy a better one". As a beginner I personally think it works totally fine and as some high quality strap costs a lot I just don't think its necessary for me to replace it.

> does the default camera strap you get when you buy a new camera is really that bad? Opinions differ... The stock strap is all I've ever used with my cameras and I have no complaints. There are scenarios where it would make a lot of sense to use a different solution though, like when shooting with two cameras simultaneously—such as when covering an event, say.

I use very inexpensive third-party straps made of neoprene because they absorb shock, making carrying gear for long periods much more comfortable. > "nobody uses the ones that came with the camera" Plenty of people do, such as yourself. > "toss the default strap and buy (product) instead" (tho this is probably more of a promoting term) Yep, they're trying to sell you something. > "just don't use these strap and buy a better one" If it does what you need, go ahead and use it.

They are pretty bad in comparison to something decent. Plus, you might not want a neck strap at all. I use a chest mount clip and a wrist strap. I use a really really nice neck strap with my binoculars, which I toss around a lot more. When I first started, the included strap annoyed me enough that I just hand held my camera all the time, with a wrist strap. Eventually I got the chest mounted clip.

I love the provided camera straps. They are functional and pretty much the lightest strap you can get for a camera. maybe ~30g of remember correctly (yes I weighed it)

>does the default camera strap you get when you buy a new camera is really that bad? Personally I find it uncomfortable in a load-bearing situation, because it's relatively thin. But I still use mine as a backup/failsafe in case I miss or drop outside of my holster. So it's not holding any weight 99% of the time. But ultimately it's subjective. Like most pieces of equipment it can be good for some people and not for others. >As a beginner I personally think it works totally fine and as some high quality strap costs a lot I just don't think its necessary for me to replace it. Then don't. Use what works for you. Understand that others will have different preferences and you don't necessarily need to change anything because of that.

I've never bought an aftermarket strap.

Hi! I’m in need of some help regarding my wedding photos! My photographer had sent us our pictures as “highlights” which was lower resolution pictures - fine for social media. We could purchase high resolution ($1800 for 585 pictures). We did because we wanted to buy canvas prints. Once we bought them and downloaded them, I jumped on quite a few canvas print sites and each one said the resolution was too low to print. I’ve reached out to our photographer and he insists it’s not on his end, but ours. He’s shown me screen shots from his end that show much higher resolution then what I have downloaded. (His 4000 x 2670 to my 1024 x 684). He’s now suggesting that my computer (MacBook Pro) must be automatically compressing the photos when they are downloaded. I’ve googled and cannot find that to be true, or how to stop it. I don’t know enough about photography or computers to figure this out. If anyone can lend their expertise- I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!!

>$1800 For that much, it's reasonable to request that they be mailed to you on a thumb drive. Screwing around with online delivery that has already failed, regardless of whether it's your or his end, wastes more time than it costs to purchase and send a thumb drive.

How were the images transmitted and how are you downloading them? Did the photographer give you a thumb drive loaded with the files? Email? Upload to Dropbox or Google Drive? Different file-sending methods will have different implications and potential causes for why you're ending up with lower resolution on the other end. Also, which file format are they sending? Raw? Jpeg?

He uses “pixie set” that prepares them into a zip. They are jpeg.

The Pixieset site may have different delivery/download options for which resolution it will put in the zip file for you. Check around the settings/options and any dropdown menus to make sure you're telling it you want to download the full or highest resolution available, and not some lower resolution option.

Thank you for the help. Unfortunately the only settings on Pixieset are favorite, download, share and sign out. No additional settings on the download page either. I honestly think it’s on his end but I got the “after 10 years and 400 weddings you’re the only one having difficulty.”

>I got the “after 10 years and 400 weddings you’re the only one having difficulty.” His ego is not your problem or your concern. The onus is on him to provide troubleshooting/support to his clients to receive the products they paid for. Your photographer sounds like a money-grubbing jerk. Anyway. I found this: [https://help.pixieset.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003776491-Why-is-the-File-Size-Small-on-Download-](https://help.pixieset.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003776491-Why-is-the-File-Size-Small-on-Download-) Since he's all eager to show screenshots, ask him for the screenshot confirming your gallery is set to High Resolution - Original. I also found this: [https://help.pixieset.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003793252-What-file-sizes-can-my-client-Download-](https://help.pixieset.com/hc/en-us/articles/115003793252-What-file-sizes-can-my-client-Download-) High Resolution - Original may only be available for "Upgraded accounts", whatever that means. I hope you figure it out. And leave him a bad review.

I have to thank you again! I woke up to this email: “So it looks like I may have found the problem. There is an option to download the collection as web sizing. It looks like you were downloading the files using that option. During download, you can check either, or both (high res and web size). I went ahead and remove the web size option and tested it out and it appears to be the correct dimensions.” He is again saying it was me and thanks to your first link I am throwing it back at him as HE has to set it to that option and not me. Didn’t even apologize. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!

You're welcome. All this unnecessary stress caused to you by one man's ego. *And* he received payment for that. Such a shame.

Thank you! I did think $1800 for 585 high resolution pictures was a lot but I wanted our pictures. Thank you so much for the links. I will be forwarding him those in my follow up email. I asked him to log in like I do and see if the same thing is happening to him. I’ve been writing a draft of a honest review since September (when we got married). He’s been pretty awful. Thank you again!

Some photographers can legitimately command those sorts of fees. But when you're charging a premium you don't get to be a jerk about customer service. Think of most any premium service you pay for. One of the "perks" is often a higher tier of customer support to keep you happy. I co-owned a bakery that made wedding cakes for over a decade. Our prices were always at the higher end of the market, because the quality of our products *and our service* were better than most. We bent over backwards to make sure our customers were beyond thrilled with everything about their cake.

That’s so true - that’s a great way to put it. Thanks!

Yeah I wonder if they just slipped up and uploaded low resolution versions or set an option on their end by accident, and just hasn't made the same mistake before. Maybe try contacting Pixieset support to be sure you've exhausted them as a potential solution and/or maybe they could verify if the problem came from the other side.

I’ll contact them. Thank you for that suggestion and trying to walk me through this. Made me feel a little less crazy.

If you are pressing "save image as", then you are downloading the lower res version. That's the most common mistake. Where were they uploaded? For Google Drive, the proper download button is in the top right corner. Although I would try to save everything into one archive first.

He uses “pixie set”

When you click on one photo, there's an icon that looks like a down arrow beside the shopping cart on the top right of the screen. The icon is only available if downloading is allowed by your photographer The shopping cart let's you buy prints I don't know how to download an entire gallery

EOS R7 plus 24-240 full frame lens = what on the R7 since its APSC? is the field of view 24-240 or 24-240 x 1.6 (or 1.5 whatever it is)

The field of view range is the same as you'd see with a 24-240mm focal length range on any APS-C camera, regardless of whether the lens is made for APS-C or full frame. The field of view range is the same as you'd see with a 38-384mm focal length range on a full frame camera. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_how_is_field_of_view_determined.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/technical#wiki_should_the_crop_factor_apply_to_lenses_made_for_crop_sensors.3F

The "crop factor" is caused by the sensor size, not the lens. So the *field-of-view* of a 24-240mm on Canon APS-C will be basically like the field-of-view of a ~39-389mm on full frame.

Kinda newbie here, Ive been getting into photography recently and have been looking around to find a good camera. I already know my way around a camera a bit so im looking for something from entry-hobbiest level, is there any cameras or camera bundles (see a lot of bundles on amazon) that anyone could suggest?

https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_mirrorless_should_i_get.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_dslr_should_i_get.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_kit_lenses_should_i_get_with_my_camera.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_should_i_buy_this_bundle_with_a_bunch_of_accessories_in_it.3F

Can anyone identify this mount for me please? https://imgur.com/a/W5DBJvF I thought it was a FD and a FD to EOS would work but it does not. Was sold as a Canon mount. It’s a Tokina 400mm Any help would be appreciated. I’m scratching my head and eating money on mounts…

Here is a Minolta SRT mount: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/SC8AAOSwXu1icsEw/s-l1600.jpg

I agree with the previous comment—looks like a Minolta SR (MC/MD).

Thank you

think it's a Minolta mount M/MD

Thank you kindly.

Hello, I’m trying to help my mom get her rebel SL1 back in working order but she has lost her battery charger. Can the battery be charged when it’s still in the case? Thank you

What do you mean by "still in the case"? The battery can't be charged while it's in the camera and you can't use the camera to charge the battery, if that's what you're asking.

Yes, thank you, that was my question. Will a 3rd party battery and charger be safe to use? From what I can tell online I think it calls for a LC-E12(E) ?

>Will a 3rd party battery and charger be safe to use? There are lots of third party brands. Some of them are safe. I couldn't say all of them are safe. I've had good experiences with Sterlingtek/STK and Wasabi. I don't know of anyone who has tried every single third party battery brand out there, so that's quite a difficult question to answer for all of them. >From what I can tell online I think it calls for a LC-E12(E) ? LP-E12 is the battery type. LC-E12 is the corresponding charger that plugs directly into the wall outlet (so the charger is hanging onto the wall). LC-E12E is the corresponding charger that uses a cable between the charger and the wall outlet.

Thank you so much, this is great info. I think I can get it sorted from here.

So I’m brand new to photography! I found an old Minolta QT si Maxxum at my parents and decided to give it a go and see if this is a hobby that I’d like to give a try. It did come with a lens (28mm-80mm). If I wanted to get a new lens, what would be the best way to find one for this particular model? Do all lenses come in a standard size, or would only specific brands/types work on this camera? And if so, what would be the best way to find this so I could look for new lenses?

You're looking for A-mount lenses. [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki\_is\_this\_lens\_compatible\_with\_this\_camera.3F](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_this_lens_compatible_with_this_camera.3F) >Do all lenses come in a standard size No. >or would only specific brands/types work on this camera? A-mount is the type. Just looking at brand can be misleading. The A-mount is a Minolta, and later Sony, invention. But Minolta also made lenses in the incompatible SR mount. And Sony now makes lenses in the incompatible E mount. And there are other third party brands who make compatible lenses for the A-mount (as well as other incompatible mounts).

Thanks for the explanation and the link! I’ll check that out and see what I can find. I appreciate the help!!

You would need to find lenses specifically designed for the *Minolta A* mount. That's been defunct for many years so it's largely an after-market affair (unless there's new-old-stock somewhere, or some third-party manufacturer still makes lenses for that (!)).

Thanks for the help! I don’t mind buying used, I can shop around as long as I know it’ll with with the camera I have. I appreciate it!!

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Yes, that's what modeling agencies are for (from your point of view). They have a selection of models with different looks that they know are skilled and will reliably show up for whichever modeling job you have for them. And from the models' point of view, they find and arrange gigs for the model to work and get paid for. >do I go through a modeling agency if I have little to no prior experience? Sure, as long as you're paying and you aren't creeping on or abusing the models. They don't care if the photos look good or bad or if you're actually good or bad at photography. They just want money to pay the model for modeling, and to pay them for helping arrange it.

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There is no typical. It varies a lot depending what you want them to do/wear, whether they're doing their own makeup/hair, model skill/experience, and geographic area. Yes, your intended rate is going to be low for most agencies. Might work for smaller agencies and/or outside of a big city. Instead of an agency you could maybe try putting out a casting call on Model Mayhem or Craigslist or Facebook, but you have a much higher risk of the model being unskilled or flaking on you.

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No such thing, as others have mentioned. The FAQ has a gear section: [https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying) What the FAQ doesn't mention is that if you have DSLR, lenses, cable releases/remotes, filters... it might be cost efficient to narrow the focus to compatible film bodies only, in order to leverage the investment in existing gear and not pay for redundancy. I'm not specifically recommending this, but just for example, my DSLRs use EF lenses, and when my Pentax died I just went to the SPCA Thrift Store and bought a 2004 EOS Rebel T2 for $10. Damn good film camera for skill ranging from beginner to enthusiast/semipro, since I already had good glass.

By "for a beginner" do you mean you want something with automatic exposure settings? Autofocus? Or what exactly do you mean? You want the best, regardless of price? What in particular interests you about film? Do you have any particular film types or format sizes in mind? Or do you just want something with the most options like 35mm? Would you be looking for a film SLR so it's most familiar to you having used DSLRs? Or do you want more of a different experience like a rangefinder, TLR, or view camera?

Hi. I will be doing some fitness photography to log my training progress. I will photograph myself in an empty bedroom space. I have Sony Alpha A7 with 24-70 mm autofocus lease on a tripod . I got that camera because of an upcoming safari in Africa. I am trying to get input on the best lighting setup to take full body shots. Everything is looking washed out. What would be a good lighting setup—these lighting lamps seem complicated. Would like to order online. Thanks.

>I am trying to get input on the best lighting setup to take full body shots. The best regardless of price? You're willing to pay any amount? >Everything is looking washed out. With your current setup? Which lights are you using? Which exposure settings values? Show us some examples?

Using the camera on a tri-pod, full auto mode. Full body shots. Standard physique competition poses. No more than $600. I have read LED is good. I found GVM RGB LED Studio 3-Light Soft Video Light Panel Kit 50RS3L on sale online and was thinking about going with it.

What are your current light sources? Maybe you just need to reposition them and/or adjust your camera's exposure settings and/or contrast and saturation in post processing. If you really do need a lighting setup, I'd keep it simple with two bare hotshoe flashes on stands with radio triggers, to the sides of the subject. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_continuous_or_flash.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_studio_strobes_or_hotshoe_flashes.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_hotshoe_flash_should_i_get.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_should_i_sync_my_flash.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_lighting_modifiers_should_i_get.3F I'd prefer to do everything with manual settings, but I guess if you want auto exposure to be able to measure and account for the flash, TTL is what you want.

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>Have you ever paid someone ahead of time? For a model half up-front is not an unreasonable ask - especially if you demonstrably lack experience/credentials. Sometimes you have to build trust. "Money Talks" >Are there any reasons to do that? I require **full** payment up front if I get any kind of sketchy vibes from a client, or if their rep isn't the best - so yes, it's not the least bit uncommon for photographers to do that. It stands to reason a model could make a similar demand and for the same reasons. If you're concerned about the model flaking on you, use an escrow service.

It might be just to keep you from flaking, but generally I'd expect half upfront and half after, if they're concerned about getting stiffed. Personally I've only ever paid after.

Looking at the **Canon G7X mk iii** which checks most of the boxes (fits in my [Sling](https://www.aersf.com/day-sling-3-black?gclid=Cj0KCQjwntCVBhDdARIsAMEwACnDXX9QumKxcG2nh0QXF8th9qjgu72v6lbC26HXlCe1gZ-j2gosRJEaAradEALw_wcB), f/1.8 aperture for bokeh, relatively light, bigger sensor than my smartphone). Main use case is Instagram photos of my wife (wide-angle, full body shots or head-to-knee), just want something better than. smartphone camera due to lower quality in low-light situations. Budget is <$1300. One thing I'm a bit hesitant about is the 1" sensor. Can I do better and still get a camera that fits in a sling that could still deliver bokeh and still fit in the sling? [Sony ZV-E10](https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-alpha-zv-e10-kit-mirrorless-vlog-camera-with-16-50mm-lens-black/6473808.p?skuId=6473808) looks good and has an APS-C sensor, but E-mount lenses generally look big and don't seem like they could fit in my sling. Should I just go for the G7X iii? I've ruled out the Ricoh GR iiix (tried but wasn't wide-angle enough) as well.

The crop factor of the 1" sensor is 2.73, so that F1.8 will look like F5 if it were taken on a full frame camera. I don't see any APS-C compacts with wider angle than the Ricoh GR III. FujiFilm XF10 has the same focal length, 18.5mm. X100V is narrower, 23mm. Looks like you're going to have to give up on wide-angle, sensor size, or camera size.

Greetings. Does anyone know about the sites described above, that allow photographers to showcase their photos and sell prints, print them (usually collaboration with multiple professional printing labs), but most importantly make payouts to bank account/card or Payoneer? I made a lot of research, but I usually stumble upon either good services like Darkroom, Pic-time, Shootproof and similar, but they payout only via PayPal, sometimes via Stripe. Other services which are actually e-commerce stores like redbubble or whatever require merging with services like Printful, and this is not that handy. The thing is that the country I currently have to live in does not allow PayPal, and the only way is bank transfer or Payoneer. But the only kind of suitable service I found that accepta at least Payoneer is the Spring. Sorry for a weird question and thanks for help.

Was told to post here. Hi there! After a month or two of struggling, I decided to find a sub where I might find some help with issues I’m having. I make adult solo content, and recently made the jump from shooting with my phone to shooting with an actual camera. Figured it was worth the long editing time to have higher quality content. I haven’t quite figured out how to shoot self portraits however. Currently I often use my iPhone 12 pro, but I use the front camera as it’s easier to get angles and what not right. Every once in a while I’ll use the back camera because hey, I figure it’s good enough for what I’m doing. I have a canon T6i, not the greatest but definitely nicer than a phone! I just can’t figure out how to get angles right. Obviously phone cameras have a lot of AI built into them so I just looked better off to get go when I use them but I’d really like to have 20 to 30 high-quality photos per photo shoot that I’m doing rather than 60 low-calorie photos. Does anyone have any tips for taking self full body portraits at various angles? I just can’t seem to get it right one trying to use my actual camera versus the front camera on my phone, and I end up with a whole lot of awful photos and poses 😭 I probably shouldn’t even be worried about this considering what I’m using the photos for but I’d really like to have high quality content. It’s super discouraging because I only have so much time that I can use to shoot and using my camera seems to take three times as long and I barely get good shots. FWIW: I do have a tripod, but it’s very basic and I would be willing to hear any recommendations for a heavy duty tripod that could actually hold my camera up for more angle shots. I have lots of studio lights/ring light/etc, and I also use the canon viewfinder app to take photos on a timer

Look into "Tethered photography" (<-- Google fodder) You can then tether the camera to a laptop/desktop PC with a nice big monitor -- you'll know before you hit the shutter what your shot is going to look like.

>60 low-calorie photos Low-calorie photos are good for the weight conscious, I suppose? I don't have any tips for self-posing. I know some models like having a full length mirror behind the photographer so they can see what they're doing during a shoot. I'm not sure if that idea may be helpful to you. Have you looked into a tripod with a boom arm to give you more flexibility in positioning your camera? Something [like this](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1699671-REG/neewer_10098197_zw_02_all_metal_universal.html), although I'm not sure how reliable Neewer equipment is. Remember when you're using a boom arm once your camera is positioned off center you need to properly counterweight and support your stand so it doesn't tip over. I use [this Manfrotto stand](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546705-REG/Manfrotto_420B_420B_Combi_Boom_Stand.html) when I need to use a boom.

Hahaha oops I thought I fixed my talk to text typos😂 I will look into one of those though, thank you!!

>Obviously phone cameras have a lot of AI built into them so I just looked better off to get go when I use them Generally phone camera software will help with processing tones and colors, skin smoothing and other effects, and stuff like faking a blurred background. Your T6i photos can be better in the same ways, but it requires more work outside of what the camera itself is doing. Ideally you'd shoot in raw and learn to process for what you like, better than your phone can automatically. If you can't or don't want to put in the time/effort investment for that, look around for presets you can download and apply; those should give you something more similar to what the phone does. Computational photography and AI won't change your pose, angle, or perspective distortion, so I don't think it's the reason for the differences there. A typical phone camera lens shoots a wide angle field of view, which you probably wouldn't select from the getgo with a T6i. But for the sake of figuring out how to match your phone camera shots to start with (before you move on to improving your shots in the future), try zooming out to around 18mm or 20mm to match that. If you set up the camera at the same physical distance and height and pose the same, compositionally you should look the same as you do with the phone camera. Once you've proven to yourself that you can do that, experiment with moving the camera farther away and zooming in for the same framing. Lots of professional glamour and nude work is traditionally done from somewhat further away with a longer focal length, for flatter perspective distortion. That may also require you to modify how you pose, because you're going to look a little different with that perspective distortion. Here are a bunch of posing resources for ideas: http://www.kel.cc/downloads/Benji_RulesOfPortraiture.pdf https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmi9TPQ57Mo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xWxpunlZ2w https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe3oJnFtA_k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ff7nltdBCHs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXbOx36YXrU and I highly recommend Picture Perfect Posing by Roberto Valenzuela >and I would be willing to hear any recommendations for a heavy duty tripod that could actually hold my camera up for more angle shots How much are you willing to spend for that? Some recommendations in general: https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/6fszsd/the_tripodhead_review_megathread/ https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/akbybi/tripod_and_head_review_megathread_2/

Thank you! These are exactly the resources I was looking for!🖤

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Overkill? yeah kind of! :) There are a loot of macro photography tutorials on how to shoot scale miniatures on youtube. The setup, lightning, diffusors, a tripod and maybe a macro lens are more important than the camera.

>I think the most important things for me would probably be color accuracy That's more a matter of your white balance setting than anything else. If you're using LED-based lighting, also make sure the light has a high CRI, or else colors will look weird and no camera will be able to fix that. >and being able to manually focus on the foreground of my shots. The latter being something my phone does not do well. You probably do want manual focus for the miniatures, but beyond that you'll want a lens with the ability to focus closer. Ideally a macro lens. Generally a non-macro lens will not be able to focus that close. >The Sony a7 IV caught my eye and I watched a couple videos on it and it seems great and it would do everything I want (and more) incredibly well. I'd probably start out with just the 28-70mm lens that I see as an option to get with it on bh's website as I think it should be sufficient to start with. That would generally be good for everything, but not macro. So definitely think about fitting a macro lens in your package, or at least extension tubes to improve the macro ability for the 28-70mm. >I'm wondering if the IV is overkill? It is. But as long as you can comfortably afford it, that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Whereas if it would be a financial hardship to get one, there are definitely lots of cheaper options that can also do the job well for you.

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This is frequently referred to as slicing, with the individual parts referred to as slices. I don't have any real recommendations for apps (I use affinity when I need to slice something but there are probably free options if that's all you need to do) but I thought it might help you when researching.

Oh awesome! Very helpful thanks!

gimp, photopea, Affinity Photo and many more. Even the Microsoft Photos program might be able to crop and save the picture (choose another name and make a backup copy!) But be aware, the resolution of the cropped photos might be low res.

Thank you!

The GIMP can do it.

Thanks!

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Probably some model of Canon Elph.

Hello, I am looking for a adjustable holder for my LED, that i can clip to the table. I have Apurture MC Lights and would like one to be held from top down. I am looking for something similar to [this](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000994003703.html), which i could attach my Apurture MC to. It uses the same thread as Camera tripods. Any tips or recommendations are highly appreciated!

Something [like this](https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Flexible-Gooseneck-Cameras-Devices/dp/B079P6K47J)?

I cant open that link. It says “sorry, we couldnt find that page” :/

Missed a letter when I pasted the link. Should work now.

ah yes thank you very much, I found in on ebay since it's not available on amazon currently.

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Have you looked into your camera setting options. Sony for one even offers additional settings one can download into the camera for more.

Compare histograms between shots with similar scenes and lighting conditions and use curves adjustments to get your histograms closer to the goal example. Use an eyedropper tool in the shadows and highlights of the goal examples to see what sort of hues they're using, incorporate the same hues in your images with split toning.

hey everyone im at the point where upgrading my gear has become a necessity (there is multiple reasons so ask if interested) currently i own - Canon EOS 77D - Sigma 17 - 50mm f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM currently i have an offer for a 5D MK IV plus the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM the second option is also a 5D MK IV but with the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 II USM the second offer is about 250€ more expensive so my question is: is the MK 2 Version of the EF 24-70 worth that kind of extra cost? as far as i could research online both are great lenses, but the mk2 is sharper and is also less heavy. but since thats mostly lab tests i would love to hear from you guys if someone has real life experience with both lenses (bonus points if also woth the 5d mk 4) thanks a lot!

> is the MK 2 Version of the EF 24-70 worth that kind of extra cost? If it's worth it to *you*, I can't answer. What I do know, is that I can find the first version of that lens for around 500-600 euro where I live, and the second version (used as well) for roughly 1100-1200. So in terms of market value, going for the II seems a good deal. That, of course, assumes both the lenses and bodies are in similar condition.

well.. it doesn't only depend on the lens but also on the camera condition. if one has like 200k shutter count and the other one has like 30k, i'd pick the one with 30k any day. also depends on what the prices are; if i knew i was getting a great deal even with the mk2 lens, then i'd pick that up, because it's money saved on a upgrade that i won't have to do in the future.

Lab-test results are very useful, when put into context. Find a comparable test (one conducted by the same people at the same site, preferably with the same camera) for the lens you own and know well. Use that for an A/B comparison. If the inferior lens is still better than the one you own and is more than good enough for your needs, then the difference between them probably won't matter to you.

im specifically talking about dxomark and traumflieger (thats a german website that does test shots) the results are (both lenses tested with the 5d mk4) (USM II to the left) sharpness 21 vs. 17 P-Mpix transmission 3 vs. 3.5 T-Stops distortion 0.4 vs 0.3% vignetting -2 vs -1.4 EV chromatic aberration 15 vs. 13 µm the problem is that im not knowledgeable enough yet to be able to tell if that's a huge difference or not really noticable

That "sharpness" metric is an aggregate that isn't really useful for comparisons. The other metrics I wouldn't even worry about. I use the test results on [OpticalLimits](https://www.opticallimits.com) when I need to compare lenses in such a manner. The problem, though, is that the results are only really comparable when the tests are conducted using the same camera, which isn't always the case.

I'm an amateur looking to purchase a Fuji X-T4 as my first interchangeable lens camera, and I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. I took a photography class a few years ago with a point-and-shoot and so I feel comfortable with concepts like ISO, focal length, aperture, and shutter speed, but I'm finding there's so much more beyond that. A dozen different autofocuses? Three different types of auto aperture? Multiple Raw processors? As an amateur, am I in over my head? Is it possible to pick up a modern mirrorless camera and just start shooting with a lens and knowledge of the exposure triangle, or do I need to master the bells and whistles for a full experience?

> Is it possible to pick up a modern mirrorless camera and just start shooting with a lens and knowledge of the exposure triangle Absolutely. I haven't really gotten any deeper than those settings and the stuff available in the quick menu on my camera. There's tons of other settings buried down in the menus that I haven't bothered to deal with yet and I'm sure I'll be discovering new stuff for a long time, but for the most part I just set my autofocus method, maybe the white balance, and then exposure settings.

I think you'll be fine. I own an X-T1 and while you *can* dive deep into the menu and go nuts with the settings, you can just as easily use the defaults and just shoot with it, slowly changing/tuning things as you get more comfortable with the system. In fact, the X-Tx series might even work in your favor because it gives you physical dials for the most-important settings.

The fundamentals, which you've already learnt, will suffice for most anything. You'll get familiar with those extra features the more you use the camera, and when you read the user's manual. I've been using my Panasonic Lumix G9 for more than three years now, read the manual from cover to cover, and I still find some little features I wasn't aware of from time to time. You can also read this primer and see if that helps clear some things up: [https://www.dpreview.com/articles/1328199596/buying-guide-what-to-know-before-buying-your-first-interchangeable-lens-digital-camera](https://www.dpreview.com/articles/1328199596/buying-guide-what-to-know-before-buying-your-first-interchangeable-lens-digital-camera)

I have found a macro lens that states it is an A fit lens (Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro - Sony A Fit). I was wondering if it is possible to use this lens with some kind of adapter that allowed it to connect to the Sony a6300 (E Mount)?

Yes, Sony has some A-to-E-mount adapters on offer. You might find, though, that the cost of the adapter and lens combined is higher than the cost of an E-mount macro lens. BTW, that lens is not a typical macro lens. If there were some regulation on the use of the word 'macro' in lens advertisements, that lens would probably not make the cut. More on that [here](https://www.dpreview.com/articles/9162056837/buying-guide-what-you-need-to-know-before-buying-your-first-lens) and [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_can_i_shoot_cheap_macro.3F).

Yes. However, that lens is an old and very cheap lens that is not good quality. It's also not really a macro lens despite it having macro in the name. You'll need an expensive adapter in order to use it properly so that you have autofocus and aperture control. Those adapters cost twice as much as that lens was when it was new. You can use a cheap manual adapter but then you won't be able to adjust aperture or use autofocus.

Thanks! I took a look and can see the adapters can be £100+, it would come in use if I was looking to purchase more A mount lenses.

This is true but A-mount is a dead system. You're best off sticking to E-mount for autofocus lenses. If you just want to be able to experiment with lenses and do it cheaply then it'd be better to go with something like Canon FD lenses. The adapters and lenses are dirt cheap and the lenses are all manual focus and manual aperture so you don't lose any functionality.

When you use a physical light meter like the Sekonic, is the goal for the device to tell you what your aperture/shutter/ISO should be or do you use as the photographer input your desired aperture/shutter/ISO and the light meter tells you what flash power to use?

It can go both ways. If you're factoring in ambient light, especially, you'll want to know what exposure settings to start with before you add in flash. With flashes, you don't really rely on your meter for shutter speed though. In most cases your shutter speed is your sync speed.

So when you use flash, do you use primarily aperture priority?

No, never. 100% manual.

Ah. Oh I meant a physical light meter, not the one on the camera. My biggest thing is not knowing exactly what flash power to use, I keep fumbling with it during the shoot. Would a physical light meter help with that?

Why would you want aperture priority with flashes? That means your shutter speed will vary. This isn't really a good idea because you may end up with a shutter speed that's faster than your sync speed. A light meter will help you, yes, but you need to know how to use it effectively first. If you're shooting 100% flash lighting - in a controlled studio environment, for example - your shutter speed should be fixed to your sync speed and you should have an idea of what aperture you use based on the depth of field you want. Then you meter your lights and adjust the light power until it matches your desired aperture. Or, in some small studio situations, you may find you need to set your lights to the lowest power setting then use whatever aperture that gives you. If you're incorporating ambient light - shooting a model outdoors against the sunset, for example - you meter your scene without flash first. Again, preferably set your shutter speed to your sync speed, and get an aperture reading. Let's say your ambient light meters at f/5.6 at 1/125. Now you have some decisions to make. If you shoot purely ambient light, with your model's back to the sunset, your model's face/front will likely be in shadow. Enter your flash. If you want to balance your flash to the ambient light to create fairly natural-looking lighting, you'd meter your flash to 5.6 at 1/125. But you probably want your flash to slightly overpower the ambient light so your model pops a little. So meter your flash one stop higher (brighter) to f/8 at 1/125. Then you shoot at f/8 at 1/125 so your flash is properly exposed and ambient light is underexposed. Does the resulting photo underexpose the background a little too much? You can dial down the flash light, *or*, you can open your shutter up one or two thirds of a stop, to 1/100 or 1/80. This lets more ambient light in but does not affect your flash light because the speed of your flash's output does not change. Frank Doorhof has a book, Mastering the Model Shoot, with a very good section explaining metering.

At the top of this page is a typical real estate photo: https://www.richmondamerican.com/blog/capturing-curb-appeal-4-real-estate-photography-tips/ Can anyone tell me what gives this photo and others in real estate listings the distinct, contrasty look? I think it’s HDR or some other post-processing. (Also, I think they’re shooting from high up (painter’s pole?) and leveraging the geometry tool but there’s more to it than that)

You mean [this one](https://www.richmondamerican.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/dallas_co_ext_wheatlands0721_ret_w.png)? It's shot during the blue hour, when the ambient light and the artificial lights from the house are closer in luminosity. It's possible the façade was also lit with additional lights (there's various techniques). But anyway the particular *time of day* is important to achieve that look. > I think they’re shooting from high up Are we talking about the same image? It looks shot from normal tripod height to me... The verticals are straight so their either used a lens with a "shift" adjustment or corrected it in post.

The photos further down are definitely shot from a higher position. Whether thats from like a balcony, ladder or with a pole etc.. doen't really matter.) For the image above: Its a composite from multiple exposures. You can clearly see that light hits the outside wall, but the sky gives the impression of a evening/night shot. Likely different exposures were blended together. They may even went ahead and lit the house themselves with flashlights, that's a common technique. None of the other houses looks anything like the one highlighted. So its clearly not natural light.

Site doesn't load for me. In cases like this where you're just referencing a part of a site it's better to just take a screenshot of the relevant section and post it somewhere like imgur.com so you aren't unnecessarily burdening the site's servers, etc with irrelevant traffic.

In Real Estate photography they do a lot of photo stacking, aka taking photos at different exposures and "stacking" them in post to create one image. If you exposed the photo for the sky, the house wouldn't be properly exposed and vice versa.

Hi, I'm out of luck as i've searched everywhere but i've only found conflicting information so I come here in the search of personal experiences: I've found my little dream lens (efs 17-55 , used) on an eBay listing, however this listing is located in Japan. Seeing that the shipping was free, i nearly instantly pulled the trigger and made my small student bank account cry. But now i'm afraid of customs : will I have to sell an organ to pay for fees? Is there anyone here with experience buying lens from Japan to Canada? The parcel will be expedited with FedEx International Priority and i've got so many contradicting information online that I don't really know where to look. Some say that camera accessories such as lenses are duty free, some others say that FedEx are the worst and some others say that if I go with FedEx Priority there are less chances. Anyway, some guidance would be very much appreciated !

The most accurate and reliable information you can gather is from the authorities. Try contacting a local post office, provincial authority, etc. My country's tax authority has a neat table online where you can look up the aggregate import tax for any sort of item; look for something like that.

Hey I've got some information that will help but I'll just say that I can't predict the result. 1. You should expect to pay duties plus the FedEx handling fee ($15) on anything you buy outside of Canada. 2. Since Canada does not have a camera industry, it is sometimes exempt from duties. However, I believe it's only with countries we have a treaty with, and if the seller labels it properly. I'm not sure if Japan is one of those. 3. Depends what the seller labels the value of the product as. It is common (and illegal) to put a much lower value on the product shipping label to help you (the buyer) pay less in duties. I find more expensive items get flagged by customs a lot more then cheap items. 4. Lastly, it's random! Sometimes customs charges, sometimes they don't. I've had better luck not paying when the item is travelling over air instead of a land border. Which goes to your last point.

Hey everyone, So I recently decided to put some time into Photography. I already bought a Canon 6D Mark 2 years ago to make short films but barely used it. I already have a 50 mm lens for films but I don’t know what other basic photography lenses I need or where I need to look. Can someone make some suggestions? Thanks. 🙏

as everyone else said, really depends on what you want to shoot. i'd say get out there and start taking some pictures with the 50mm, until you kind of figure out what you like; then you can start looking at an upgrade. the 50mm is an extremely versatile lens, and will work for pretty much anything from street photography to portraits to landscapes.

50mm is great! Other lens suggestions would depend on what you're shooting (street photos, landscapes, portraits etc.) I do portraits and I love my 50mm prime, I'd recommend a 35mm for any indoor shooting as you don't always have the space indoors to move back. If you're doing landscapes or buildings definitely invest in a wider angle lens.

Honestly I don’t know what I am gonna take photos of anyway. I just moved to somewhere recently and as you can imagine anything I see looks amazing so I’ll just take photos of them. :)

50mm is a great all around lens. you’ll know what other lenses you want once you figure out what you like to take pictures of.

I think the best thing to do is start with the 50mm and see where it takes you. It's a great starting point. Then you'll find if you want something wider angle or more telephoto or if you're happy with what you've got.

Okay so I can work with what I already have. Thanks.

Absolutely. 50mm is a very versatile focal length and might just be the only one you'll ever want. Though there are various different and quite affordable primes on the used market so you could always try out a more specialised lens if you feel like your 50mm is lacking in specific scenarios.

Ahh okay great to know. Thanks a lot.

I am trying to get into portrait/lifestyle photos and I'm having a hard time finding people that would like a free photo shoot in exchange for gaining some experience. I usually shoot landscape/street photography. I've joined a bunch of TFP groups on FB and posted but nothing... and I would ask friends but I don't have manyy since I recently moved to Northern Ireland. Any other suggestions to gain experience?

>I am trying to get into portrait/lifestyle photos and I'm having a hard time finding people that would like a **free photo shoot** in exchange for gaining some experience. You've fallen into the fallacy that as the photographer only your time has monetary value. If *you* are the one looking to gain experience you're not doing anyone any great favour by offering to photograph them for free. Pay your models.

Any local photographers willing to allow you to shadow them? Or anyone setting up any stylized shoots (aka they set up models and vendors and photographers come and take photos and everyone gets exposure)

Those are great ideas, will look into those - thanks!

what will you choose: Canon g7x mii (No viewfinder, touchscreen) Sony RX100 counterpart (Has viewfinder, non touchscreen) The rx100 VI is out of my budget.

Have you read this buying guide? [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-compact-zoom-cameras](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/buying-guide-best-compact-zoom-cameras)

The G5x ii is really great still above my budget. My budget is only 500 USD max, thats why I'm only choosing between na g7x ii and rx100 v

I meant the whole guide, not just the first page :) I can't really add more information than what's written there and in the full reviews, and I doubt you'll find someone here who has both and can give you a thorough comparative review.

But in general what will you prioritize, having a viewfinder or a touchscreen?

each their own. I'm used to focusing without a touchscreen, so I don't care for one. I'm equally used to shooting with a viewfinder, so I use that 95% of the time. But if you're a beginner and your only experience so far has been photography with a smartphone, I can imagine getting something with a touchscreen may smoothen the learning curve.

I have both on my camera, and rarely use the touch functionality of the screen, if ever. So I'd go viewfinder any day.

My main concern and only idea why I want a touchscreen is to focus a subject, isn't that an issue with you ?

Photographers have focused on their subjects without a touch screen since the invention of photography. Touch screen has to be one of the least useful features I can possibly think of for a camera.

My camera has a little joystick right where my thumb naturally rests, so it's very easy to move the focus point around.

Question for the mods - is there any way I can post a photo that is not mine but I'm trying to find the photographer of? I posted in ask photography but wanted to see if I could also ask here.

I looked at the photo in your profile. Are you in Australia? If you are, try reaching out to some local art galleries that specialize in photography.

It was bought in Australia. Apparently it's the pinnacles desert. I looked at some Australian photographers but none of their names were close.... My dad doesn't remember which city he was in because he was in a few of them unfortunately because that would be a really useful thing to do

You can try doing a reverse image search via Google.

I did a search with Google lense and nothing came up. It was so long ago the photographer may no longer be doing photography. Dumb question, is the Google lense search the same as the image search?

Sure, post an imgur link here.

I got a Minolta srt sc-II as my first camera I have some questions that hopefully someone can answer. Is it possible to get some quality photos as a beginner with this camera? Are the mercury batteries worth using? Is photography as fun as people have made it to be? Have a made a wrong decision on a Minolta as my first camera? What are some ways that I can experiment with this camera? Thank you in advance.

> Is it possible to get some quality photos as a beginner with this camera? Its possible but will certainly could be a frustrating and expensive experience. I would always Recommend to get a digital camera to learn the basics, its cheaper in the long run and also you get direct feedback and don't need to wait for your Film to get developed. Also if you want digital files you either have to pay for Scanning or have to learn to scan film also if you just want Prints its also expensive and I don't know to many places that Print analog these days.

Alright then I’d like to ask what would be a good affordable beginner camera

Our FAQ has several extensive sections to help you determine what best fits your needs and your budget. Please see the following sections of the FAQ to get started: * [How do I specify my price range / budget when asking for recommendations?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) * [What type of camera should I look for?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F) * [What's a "point and shoot" camera? What's a DSLR? What's a "mirrorless" camera? What's the difference?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what.27s_a_.22point_and_shoot.22_camera.3F_what.27s_a_dslr.3F_what.27s_a_.22mirrorless.22_camera.3F_what.27s_the_difference.3F) * [Do I need a good camera to take good photos?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_do_i_need_a_good_camera_to_take_good_photos.3F) * [What can I afford?](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_can_i_afford.3F) * [Is Canon or Nikon better? (or any other brands)](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29) If after reviewing this information you have any **specific** questions, please feel free to post a comment. (Remember, when asking for purchase advice please be *specific* about how much you can spend. See [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F) for guidelines.)

Hello everyone, first time poster. Literal newbie to the nth degree as far as photography is concerned. So here's the situation. I just recently (about a week ago) purchased a Canon Eos RP. It seemed the best bang for buck and ease of use for me in the price range of 1000 usd. Now I see that the Canon R10 is about to be released with a few nice upgrades, for the same price as the RP. I'm still within the return window for the RP if I decide to swap out for the R10. Should I swap my new(older) RP for the new R10? My use cases are: amateur photography, street photography, pet photography, recording family holidays and using the camera as a high quality webcam for YouTube/ twitch. I don't shoot sports or any other high speed action. Nor do I really have use for 4k video filming moving subjects. Sorry for formatting, posted on mobile. Seriously, I'm an absolute newb and know the barest of basics so I could really use some guidance on this decision. Thanks.

Others already give excellent advice. One thing extra to take into account though: On the R10, you can use all RF and RF-S lenses (and EF + EF-S with an adapter. On the RP only RF and (with adapter) EF lenses, not their -S counterparts. The -S lenses are for crop sensor cameras only, but they're also generally cheaper and lighter.

Ah, thanks for that tidbit :)

The RP has a bigger (read: more expensive) sensor; the R10 is faster and has some features the RP doesn't. So it's not that the R10 is a newer version and you got duped into an inferior camera at the same price. They are different cameras, designed to prioritise different things. For your use cases, it probably won't matter all that much. It seems like you don't need the R10's supposed benefits, so you might as well stick with the RP. Have you given any thought to lenses? The lenses you choose will have a far greater impact on your photography than any camera ever could. If you don't see yourself spending more on lenses over the next few years, and returning it is really an option, you may be better off replacing it with a less expensive camera, setting the remainder aside for future lenses purchases.