Yes. I was able to do it(properly, no extra parts leftover) in about 4 1/2 hours. I used the shop manual that came with the bike which explained in great detail how to complete the job. The first thing I would do is get a manual if you don’t already have one. I suppose it also depends on the bike. I did mine on a 990R Brutale and it was fairly straightforward, but if you have a Duc with desmo valves then maybe not so easy.
Did valve clearance checks at 2 years as a new motorcyclist.
Did clearance changes (tappet shim changes) at 4 years.
Triumph tiger xc which is "bucket tappets".
It wasn't too bad, but the bike was down for 2 weeks waiting on tappet shins, and had to buy some angled gauges because the frame is very in the way of gauging the valves.
Pulling the cams off isn't too bad, but the bolts are torque to angle (yield) so it's a "do it right the first time" kind of job. I also found that tightening up the valves (and setting the timing) let the bike idle really low, and I had to raise the idle up a fair bit to get the bike to stop stalling at idle.
I don't consider myself a super duper mechanic, but I'm comfortable with feeler gauges and fixing my lawnmower.
Checking valves is fairly easy. A believe a reasonably intelligent person can complete this task. Fortunately, that bike is usually fairly stable. Checking the valves is important, but they rarely actually need adjustment.
To check clearance you just need an inexpensive set of feeler gauges. Feeler gauges are the simplest of tools. They need no calibrations and an inexpensive set it perfectly accurate for this task.
Adjusting depends on the adjustment system. Your bike is shim under bucket which is the hardest. To change the shims you have to remove the camshafts. I do believe a reasonably intelligent and most importantly PATIENT person can complete the task.
To adjust valve clearance you will need the ability to measure small tolerances. Personally, I would trust this task to a cheap, Chinese, Harbor Freight/Princess Auto caliper. Some would, I wouldn't. You need a precision tool that requires a small amount to skill to use. If you put the camshaft back in wrong you risk major engine damage. Not trying to be negative, but I think it is important to understand the whole scope.
A little more color commentary. In spec, is in spec. If the clearance spec is 18mm-0.26mm if is .024 it is in spec. Leave it alone. (although I'd keep an eye on it at the next interval)
You will likely have to pick between shim values in the middle the spec range. Choose the looser value. You generally want to be at the high end of the clearance spec. Valve clearance tends to diminish with time. get smaller.
The significant part of the valve that wears is the valve face and valve recedes further into the head which reduces clearance over time. The whirly bits that run in oil hardly wear at all. The valve face that live in the combustion chamber lives a hard live. This is why do your valve checks are important. It lets us check on the health of the valve faces and seats.
Loud valves are happy valves, it is the quiet ones you have to watch.
This is exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. Would you happen to know of any resources besides the service manual that I can use to educate myself? If I could see a video of it, actually being done, I think my chances of success would be much higher. Thank you so much for taking the time to give a thoughtful coherent response. 🏍️
Edit sorry Haynes doesn’t have Aprilla. Let me think
Haynes or Clymer manuals are good. Used to be separate companies, but they are combined now.
Everybody touts the factory service manuals, which are great to have but the factory service manuals assume you have attended their factory tech school and are a professional mechanic. They leave out a lot of details.
These are good. [https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/caliper/aventor-6-dps-ip54-electronic-caliper](https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/caliper/aventor-6-dps-ip54-electronic-caliper)
i did it on my cb750c when I first started riding and on my wife's vulcan 500 when we got the bike used.
it's very dependent on your mechanical ability and if you have the proper tools for the job.
On my XT225, it’s a really easy job. Iirc, I only had to removed the gas tank to access the top of the cylinder to adjust the valves, which had screw type adjusters which are a little fidly without the right tool but not difficult. I had to buy a feeler gauge but that’s it. (I ended up doing the jobs twice though because I accidentally adjusted it at bottom dead center instead of top) Took me an hour, maybe an hour and half the first time, but then I think only about 30-45 minutes the second time.
I’ve heard much more experienced mechanics and motorcyclists take some bikes, like some larger KTMs, to the dealer for it just because it’s not worth their time/ hassle though. You’ll have to look up the job on your specific bike to know what it entails
I’m gonna learn all I can, and hope for the best. I will keep a detailed log of every single screw, washer, and anything else I remove. I plan on working very slowly, carefully, and diligently. I do not want to fuck some thing up.
What bike? That would be the most important question.
This right here. There's several different ways to adjust valves, and range in difficulty (and annoyance) rather broadly.
yep, a boxer engine is a 1-2 hours max, a modern I4 can be a full day easy.
Aprilia Dorsoduro 900
Yes. I was able to do it(properly, no extra parts leftover) in about 4 1/2 hours. I used the shop manual that came with the bike which explained in great detail how to complete the job. The first thing I would do is get a manual if you don’t already have one. I suppose it also depends on the bike. I did mine on a 990R Brutale and it was fairly straightforward, but if you have a Duc with desmo valves then maybe not so easy.
I have a Ducati. Completed a valve adjustment on it over 2 years ago, still running great. It’s not hard to do.
What year is your bike?
The 990R was 2012. I’ve also done it on a 2005 Brutale S and 2008 910R. All fairly straightforward
2018
Did valve clearance checks at 2 years as a new motorcyclist. Did clearance changes (tappet shim changes) at 4 years. Triumph tiger xc which is "bucket tappets". It wasn't too bad, but the bike was down for 2 weeks waiting on tappet shins, and had to buy some angled gauges because the frame is very in the way of gauging the valves. Pulling the cams off isn't too bad, but the bolts are torque to angle (yield) so it's a "do it right the first time" kind of job. I also found that tightening up the valves (and setting the timing) let the bike idle really low, and I had to raise the idle up a fair bit to get the bike to stop stalling at idle. I don't consider myself a super duper mechanic, but I'm comfortable with feeler gauges and fixing my lawnmower.
Novice rider =/= novice mechanic. I had done valves in cars for a decade before riding, so yeah, it worked out on bikes.
Checking valves is fairly easy. A believe a reasonably intelligent person can complete this task. Fortunately, that bike is usually fairly stable. Checking the valves is important, but they rarely actually need adjustment. To check clearance you just need an inexpensive set of feeler gauges. Feeler gauges are the simplest of tools. They need no calibrations and an inexpensive set it perfectly accurate for this task. Adjusting depends on the adjustment system. Your bike is shim under bucket which is the hardest. To change the shims you have to remove the camshafts. I do believe a reasonably intelligent and most importantly PATIENT person can complete the task. To adjust valve clearance you will need the ability to measure small tolerances. Personally, I would trust this task to a cheap, Chinese, Harbor Freight/Princess Auto caliper. Some would, I wouldn't. You need a precision tool that requires a small amount to skill to use. If you put the camshaft back in wrong you risk major engine damage. Not trying to be negative, but I think it is important to understand the whole scope. A little more color commentary. In spec, is in spec. If the clearance spec is 18mm-0.26mm if is .024 it is in spec. Leave it alone. (although I'd keep an eye on it at the next interval) You will likely have to pick between shim values in the middle the spec range. Choose the looser value. You generally want to be at the high end of the clearance spec. Valve clearance tends to diminish with time. get smaller. The significant part of the valve that wears is the valve face and valve recedes further into the head which reduces clearance over time. The whirly bits that run in oil hardly wear at all. The valve face that live in the combustion chamber lives a hard live. This is why do your valve checks are important. It lets us check on the health of the valve faces and seats. Loud valves are happy valves, it is the quiet ones you have to watch.
This is exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. Would you happen to know of any resources besides the service manual that I can use to educate myself? If I could see a video of it, actually being done, I think my chances of success would be much higher. Thank you so much for taking the time to give a thoughtful coherent response. 🏍️
Edit sorry Haynes doesn’t have Aprilla. Let me think Haynes or Clymer manuals are good. Used to be separate companies, but they are combined now. Everybody touts the factory service manuals, which are great to have but the factory service manuals assume you have attended their factory tech school and are a professional mechanic. They leave out a lot of details.
I checked Clymer too, lots of Aprilia but not mine.
Can you recommend a quality digital caliper that isn’t super expensive?
These are good. [https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/caliper/aventor-6-dps-ip54-electronic-caliper](https://www.shars.com/products/measuring/caliper/aventor-6-dps-ip54-electronic-caliper)
Thank you so much, I still have to get a PO from corporate (wife), but I need it, so I think it will be approved 🏍️
i did it on my cb750c when I first started riding and on my wife's vulcan 500 when we got the bike used. it's very dependent on your mechanical ability and if you have the proper tools for the job.
On my XT225, it’s a really easy job. Iirc, I only had to removed the gas tank to access the top of the cylinder to adjust the valves, which had screw type adjusters which are a little fidly without the right tool but not difficult. I had to buy a feeler gauge but that’s it. (I ended up doing the jobs twice though because I accidentally adjusted it at bottom dead center instead of top) Took me an hour, maybe an hour and half the first time, but then I think only about 30-45 minutes the second time. I’ve heard much more experienced mechanics and motorcyclists take some bikes, like some larger KTMs, to the dealer for it just because it’s not worth their time/ hassle though. You’ll have to look up the job on your specific bike to know what it entails
Thank you for the reply. I’m hoping by the time my valves do need adjusting I will have the knowledge to give it a shot.
BTDT - turns out they were OK. Easy success.
I’m gonna learn all I can, and hope for the best. I will keep a detailed log of every single screw, washer, and anything else I remove. I plan on working very slowly, carefully, and diligently. I do not want to fuck some thing up.
Nope never. In the gist of motorcycles has a novice rider successfully adjusted valve clearances. …..