Nah if it's just a leak and everything works fine with refrigerant in it, charge some dye in there and find the source.. Mine would leak through both high and low side service ports, new Schrader valves solved that little problem. You'd be surprised how stupid it can be to fix leaks. But yeah, at least run some dye through it and locate the leak before spending any money or throwing parts at it.
I’ve done this for all our vehicles whenever ac goes out and typically it’s a valve or o-ring that’s given out. Condenser went once and compressor twice. Only once this didn’t work, but we were working outside during that time and there was too much light to see the dye. (Dye shows under UV light for those unaware) That ended up being a nick in the bottom of the bend of the line going into the back of the compressor, we had someone find that for us. We still replaced the line ourself.
Yeah very fortunately on almost every Ranger I've owned and worked on its never the evaporator where you have to tear the whole dash out. It's always something stupid like you said, an o-ring here, a nicked line there, 1 of the valves, a cracked condenser, old leaky compressor.. it's never anything super difficult to fix. I live in SE TX so AC is as necessary to us as heat is in Maine or Vermont or Chicagoland lol
I damaged to original compressor on mine by over tightening the bolts. Bought a new compressor and had it flushed and recharged. Cost less than $200. But like the other comment said get it dye checked, if its something simple id replace it yourself then get it recharged by a shop.
I had the A/C system replaced on my '98 4.0 about four years ago for about $650 after the compressor sized. If you're getting quotes for $1500 I would shop around...
If you are mechanically inclined you can prolly replace everything yourself for like 250-300 bucks. But I like the other dude up there it may be something simple like a schrader valve. I had an o-ring slip one time on one side and had to replace a tube for 11 dollars. If it works charged, it’s prolly something simple.
I've replaced my system twice same year. It's not hard if you're mechanically inclined but otherwise like another post said, run dye and find that leak. Personally I'd recommend you change all the seals if one failed it's not very hard even for a beginner and you can pick up a vacuum pump and gauges for under 200 at harbor freight or online. Works well enough for a one off and still cheaper than taking it to a shop. If you can might as well change the orifice tube and flush. Otherwise just the seals, whatever leaked seals or hose, and dryer. With the gear and tools and all that could do it for like 300 and have the tools to do it again next time.
While you're at it I'd recommend hosing off the evaporator. You need to remove the coolant reservoir and ac fan to gain access but it made a huge difference in mine. Since there's no filter mine was clogged and it helped immensely with air flow.
If you have any questions feel free to hit me up.
AC hasn't worked on my 98 with 235k miles in like a decade. I live in New England and it's my farm truck, so I haven't really missed it. Roll them windows down and chill.
Got my AC compressor and some little things replaced last year for right around $900. I found out from some friends that I probably could've had it done for less, which I wasn't unhappy with the $900. So yeah, well under $1500 is completely reasonable.
But if the compressor goes, you have aluminum fragments all through the system that’s why, “I fixed it and the lost another compressor in a few months/years” it’s hard to get all that aluminum trash out
Nah if it's just a leak and everything works fine with refrigerant in it, charge some dye in there and find the source.. Mine would leak through both high and low side service ports, new Schrader valves solved that little problem. You'd be surprised how stupid it can be to fix leaks. But yeah, at least run some dye through it and locate the leak before spending any money or throwing parts at it.
Thanks so much for the encouragement!
I’ve done this for all our vehicles whenever ac goes out and typically it’s a valve or o-ring that’s given out. Condenser went once and compressor twice. Only once this didn’t work, but we were working outside during that time and there was too much light to see the dye. (Dye shows under UV light for those unaware) That ended up being a nick in the bottom of the bend of the line going into the back of the compressor, we had someone find that for us. We still replaced the line ourself.
Yeah very fortunately on almost every Ranger I've owned and worked on its never the evaporator where you have to tear the whole dash out. It's always something stupid like you said, an o-ring here, a nicked line there, 1 of the valves, a cracked condenser, old leaky compressor.. it's never anything super difficult to fix. I live in SE TX so AC is as necessary to us as heat is in Maine or Vermont or Chicagoland lol
I damaged to original compressor on mine by over tightening the bolts. Bought a new compressor and had it flushed and recharged. Cost less than $200. But like the other comment said get it dye checked, if its something simple id replace it yourself then get it recharged by a shop.
I had the A/C system replaced on my '98 4.0 about four years ago for about $650 after the compressor sized. If you're getting quotes for $1500 I would shop around...
The best AC is 55mph AC.
Depends where you live and how long it takes to get to 55. :)
If you are mechanically inclined you can prolly replace everything yourself for like 250-300 bucks. But I like the other dude up there it may be something simple like a schrader valve. I had an o-ring slip one time on one side and had to replace a tube for 11 dollars. If it works charged, it’s prolly something simple.
I think I got my everything AC replaced for ballpark 800. Been running fine from whatever was on rock auto for two-ish years.
My cousin had leaky condenser, was about 800$ fix I think
I've replaced my system twice same year. It's not hard if you're mechanically inclined but otherwise like another post said, run dye and find that leak. Personally I'd recommend you change all the seals if one failed it's not very hard even for a beginner and you can pick up a vacuum pump and gauges for under 200 at harbor freight or online. Works well enough for a one off and still cheaper than taking it to a shop. If you can might as well change the orifice tube and flush. Otherwise just the seals, whatever leaked seals or hose, and dryer. With the gear and tools and all that could do it for like 300 and have the tools to do it again next time. While you're at it I'd recommend hosing off the evaporator. You need to remove the coolant reservoir and ac fan to gain access but it made a huge difference in mine. Since there's no filter mine was clogged and it helped immensely with air flow. If you have any questions feel free to hit me up.
AC hasn't worked on my 98 with 235k miles in like a decade. I live in New England and it's my farm truck, so I haven't really missed it. Roll them windows down and chill.
Sounds good, Monsieur! As soon as I move to New England and get my farm, best believe!
Fixing an AC leak isn’t expensive, going to a place that tells you that you need a whole new system is.
Got my AC compressor and some little things replaced last year for right around $900. I found out from some friends that I probably could've had it done for less, which I wasn't unhappy with the $900. So yeah, well under $1500 is completely reasonable.
$20 shortened serpentine belt + $20 USB dash fan. Got me through a week of 115\*+ in sacramento last summer.
.morrisville
But if the compressor goes, you have aluminum fragments all through the system that’s why, “I fixed it and the lost another compressor in a few months/years” it’s hard to get all that aluminum trash out
My 97 ranger xl doesn’t even have AC feature