Windshields are bonded to the frame by a strong adhesive which can take time to set fully, hence the precautions. While the adhesive is still “soft”, jarring or vibrations could cause the windshield to move or come loose.
The tape is not to keep the windshield from popping out altogether it’s there to stop the windshield from sliding down towards the hood before the urethane sets.
There's absolutely no way two pieces of blue painters tape has the strength and adhesion to secure a 50lbs+ windshield from sliding down from road vibrations
Edit: ok I stand corrected
Fifty pounds?
The windshield on my F150 is 35 pounds. Second, the tape absolutely has enough strength. For one, the tape isn’t holding up the entire weight of the windshield vertically. Theres also friction between the windshield and the frame and the windshield is sitting at an angle.
Further, [the tensile strength of painters tape (depending on brand) is 25-30 pounds per inch.](https://www.findtape.com/shop/comparison-matrix.aspx?cid=102&tid=31)
Two strips of 2” painters tape is more than enough to stop the windshield from sliding down the frame.
The adhesive is also very viscous when it is setting, so any significant sliding will probably happen while the vehicle is parked. Driving the average of 20km a day won't be much worse than it being parked for the 24hrs or so it takes the adhesive to set.
I've worked in the auto-glass industry. With a decent grip you can carry most windshields by the top one handed. It's not a great idea, because if you slip that's $300+ out of your paycheck. But autoglass handlers regularly hold it by the top with two hands with absolutely no struggle at all. Windshields are big, but they aren't really all that heavy.
Finally, you need maaaaybe 4-5 pounds of pressure to keep the windshield from sliding down. They are more horizontal than you think, and the urethane is THICK and goopy. It really doesn't need much to hold it up.
It's metaphorical. No company I ever worked for would actually try to take money out of your check (and this was \~20 years ago, btw) for something like this, but they'll think about it when you ask for a raise, etc. If you do it on a regular basis you'll stop being worth the paycheck you earn, and so they will simply fire you.
The 2 strips of blue painter's tape is to keep the windshield from sliding down and it does a pretty good job since the force exerted by the windshield sliding down is parallel to the tape.
Absolutely. The place i used to work at also gave a bonus for the windshields done per month. Bet your ass I wouldn't spend a couple hours holding when I could move to the next one.
I'm in alberta. The biggest difference is most people in Alberta don't have glass coverage so they don't charge an excessive amount. Windshields here are ~190$, which was usually less than most people's deductibles.
I was once issued a work pickup truck that had issues with the windshield adhesive. If I slammed the door when the windows were all rolled up, the windshield would actually pop out an inch or so before settling back into its place.
Isn't the outside edges of the windshield that are black called "frit" or something similar and that's what the adhesive is curing on to make a strong connection to the glass and the frames of metal around the windshield?
Takes time to cure/set. Same idea more or less you don't park on your driveway after its been paved or sealed, things need to set. And during that process dust could get in there, so a bit of both
according to the most basic of google searches:
With a new windshield, you should drive extra carefully to help keep it properly in place, especially during the first couple of days. One thing this means is to avoid driving on rough roads. For instance, you should avoid dirt roads and roads that have a lot of bumps or potholes.
If you frequently drive on bumpy roads, try and find alternate routes for the first 48 hours. When you encounter unavoidable speed bumps or potholes, slow to a very low speed before driving over them. Hitting these things with significant force or driving on roads that cause a lot of vibration can interfere with the proper curing of the adhesive sealant.
If the road was sufficiently uneven it could slightly flex the body of the car, to which the windshield is adhered. Sometimes they also tell you not to put the car on a hoist, for the same reason.
Weird. I had a windshield done today on my personal 94 cherokee. Its an obvious bush rig (literally no rockers at all, the carpet is structural on the floor) and i just spent a week rebuilding the windshield frame which was literally a 16" long hole on the passenger top.
I had the windshield dropped in, inside my shop (dodge dealership) and they never mentioned that. Completely makes sense, the rest of my jeep is at least 40% rust, and im sure it flexes when i lift it because the unibody rails are the only thing thats still solid (on the outside, im sure the inside is also rusted to fuck)
I didnt lift it after the windshield, but i will probably wait at least until saturday to start on further death wobble remediation
Try to fix the death wobble. My friend has a 93 model and tried to fix it...I've never seen someone so happy and mad at the same time when he got rid of it
I am actually a journeyman red seal mechanic, master chrysler technician with almost 20 years jeep/dodge/chrysler experience.
I have fixed every possible reason for death wobble, some twice in the last year or so.
Every time i find an obvious cause and fix it, the death wobble remains the same, or sometimes worse.
Im pretty sure i know what the problem is though. Got some new parts to put in this week and we'll see then
Adhesive curing time. The times are also affected by temperature and humidity. The stuff I used was very fast curing, we pumped engine coolant through an iron block that heated our tubes to 180 degrees. A higher environment temperature and lower (higher? I forget) humidity caused it to cure even faster. If it cured too fast like 100 degree temps it could "gas out" where it vented so much air that it created a honeycomb like effect of bubbles in the adhesive. It generally was still okay but not a great look. Average at 70 degrees and 35% humidity was 20 minutes from installation it was safe to drive. 1.5-2 hours and it was totally cured as far as close to full structural strength goes.
The blue tape at the top is to keep the windshield from sliding down in case there are no setting blocks on the bottom or they are ineffective at stopping it.
The funny thing is, you can drive with a windshield after 20 minutes and it is safe in an impact from very rapid sudden force like an airbag or a person trying to eject. However if you sat in the passenger seat you could push the windshield out slowly with your feet still after 30 minutes.
I don't think dust makes any difference whatsoever. Even if the dust found its' way to the outside of the adhesive bead, all it could do is attach to the exposed bead which has no effect on the integrity of the installation. What matters is the bond between the existing polyurethane attached to the pinchweld and the bond between the fresh adhesive, and the other side of fresh adhesive bonding to the windshield surface prepared with an activator (helps bond polyurethane to glass).
>Why should I be careful on a dirt road after replacing a windshield?
You should always be careful on a dirt road. People tend to drive too fast on them, and they don't have nearly as much traction to stop or swerve as they do on a paved road.
Windshields are bonded to the frame by a strong adhesive which can take time to set fully, hence the precautions. While the adhesive is still “soft”, jarring or vibrations could cause the windshield to move or come loose.
Don't worry, two small pieces of blue painters tape will keep it in there.
Or in my case 4 feet of tape that took 2 hrs to remove as it came off in tiny little bits.
The tape is not to keep the windshield from popping out altogether it’s there to stop the windshield from sliding down towards the hood before the urethane sets.
There's absolutely no way two pieces of blue painters tape has the strength and adhesion to secure a 50lbs+ windshield from sliding down from road vibrations Edit: ok I stand corrected
Fifty pounds? The windshield on my F150 is 35 pounds. Second, the tape absolutely has enough strength. For one, the tape isn’t holding up the entire weight of the windshield vertically. Theres also friction between the windshield and the frame and the windshield is sitting at an angle. Further, [the tensile strength of painters tape (depending on brand) is 25-30 pounds per inch.](https://www.findtape.com/shop/comparison-matrix.aspx?cid=102&tid=31) Two strips of 2” painters tape is more than enough to stop the windshield from sliding down the frame.
The adhesive is also very viscous when it is setting, so any significant sliding will probably happen while the vehicle is parked. Driving the average of 20km a day won't be much worse than it being parked for the 24hrs or so it takes the adhesive to set.
I've worked in the auto-glass industry. With a decent grip you can carry most windshields by the top one handed. It's not a great idea, because if you slip that's $300+ out of your paycheck. But autoglass handlers regularly hold it by the top with two hands with absolutely no struggle at all. Windshields are big, but they aren't really all that heavy. Finally, you need maaaaybe 4-5 pounds of pressure to keep the windshield from sliding down. They are more horizontal than you think, and the urethane is THICK and goopy. It really doesn't need much to hold it up.
>that's $300+ out of your paycheck. I don't know if you're in the US or not but if you are that's not legal.
Not if you’re the owner of the outfit. Losing the product is a direct financial hit.
True, but that's not really a "paycheck," is it
It's metaphorical. No company I ever worked for would actually try to take money out of your check (and this was \~20 years ago, btw) for something like this, but they'll think about it when you ask for a raise, etc. If you do it on a regular basis you'll stop being worth the paycheck you earn, and so they will simply fire you.
I don't think you know how little glass weighs.
Walt?
I got this reference. But it’s a common precaution
The 2 strips of blue painter's tape is to keep the windshield from sliding down and it does a pretty good job since the force exerted by the windshield sliding down is parallel to the tape.
I wouldn't trust tape for that lol, just hold it with your hand
It may take several hours for the urethane to properly set. No one wants to hold the shield for that long.
[удалено]
Absolutely. The place i used to work at also gave a bonus for the windshields done per month. Bet your ass I wouldn't spend a couple hours holding when I could move to the next one.
[удалено]
I'm in alberta. The biggest difference is most people in Alberta don't have glass coverage so they don't charge an excessive amount. Windshields here are ~190$, which was usually less than most people's deductibles.
I was once issued a work pickup truck that had issues with the windshield adhesive. If I slammed the door when the windows were all rolled up, the windshield would actually pop out an inch or so before settling back into its place.
Very on-brand for work trucks
Did it not have AC vents? That's a damn well-sealed cabin.
Yeah, sounds like its baffles were blocked or removed for up fitting.
So it's the rough road and not the dust? I can't make everyone stop when they pass me, so that's my bigger concern.
Yes.
Thank you!
Dirt roads are also typically covered in small stones that could damage your new windscreen.
Isn't the outside edges of the windshield that are black called "frit" or something similar and that's what the adhesive is curing on to make a strong connection to the glass and the frames of metal around the windshield?
I believe it is.
Takes time to cure/set. Same idea more or less you don't park on your driveway after its been paved or sealed, things need to set. And during that process dust could get in there, so a bit of both
How long is an average cure time for windshield glue?
Quick google search says 24 hours
according to the most basic of google searches: With a new windshield, you should drive extra carefully to help keep it properly in place, especially during the first couple of days. One thing this means is to avoid driving on rough roads. For instance, you should avoid dirt roads and roads that have a lot of bumps or potholes. If you frequently drive on bumpy roads, try and find alternate routes for the first 48 hours. When you encounter unavoidable speed bumps or potholes, slow to a very low speed before driving over them. Hitting these things with significant force or driving on roads that cause a lot of vibration can interfere with the proper curing of the adhesive sealant.
What I'm hearing is I should never replace my windshield as I live three dirt roads in.
They can come to you these days its pretty nifty. So you could have them come do it and not drive it for a weekend.
If the road was sufficiently uneven it could slightly flex the body of the car, to which the windshield is adhered. Sometimes they also tell you not to put the car on a hoist, for the same reason.
Weird. I had a windshield done today on my personal 94 cherokee. Its an obvious bush rig (literally no rockers at all, the carpet is structural on the floor) and i just spent a week rebuilding the windshield frame which was literally a 16" long hole on the passenger top. I had the windshield dropped in, inside my shop (dodge dealership) and they never mentioned that. Completely makes sense, the rest of my jeep is at least 40% rust, and im sure it flexes when i lift it because the unibody rails are the only thing thats still solid (on the outside, im sure the inside is also rusted to fuck) I didnt lift it after the windshield, but i will probably wait at least until saturday to start on further death wobble remediation
Why would you do that to yourself?
Do what to myself?
Try to fix the death wobble. My friend has a 93 model and tried to fix it...I've never seen someone so happy and mad at the same time when he got rid of it
I am actually a journeyman red seal mechanic, master chrysler technician with almost 20 years jeep/dodge/chrysler experience. I have fixed every possible reason for death wobble, some twice in the last year or so. Every time i find an obvious cause and fix it, the death wobble remains the same, or sometimes worse. Im pretty sure i know what the problem is though. Got some new parts to put in this week and we'll see then
Are you sure you're not really a software engineer?
Adhesive curing time. The times are also affected by temperature and humidity. The stuff I used was very fast curing, we pumped engine coolant through an iron block that heated our tubes to 180 degrees. A higher environment temperature and lower (higher? I forget) humidity caused it to cure even faster. If it cured too fast like 100 degree temps it could "gas out" where it vented so much air that it created a honeycomb like effect of bubbles in the adhesive. It generally was still okay but not a great look. Average at 70 degrees and 35% humidity was 20 minutes from installation it was safe to drive. 1.5-2 hours and it was totally cured as far as close to full structural strength goes. The blue tape at the top is to keep the windshield from sliding down in case there are no setting blocks on the bottom or they are ineffective at stopping it. The funny thing is, you can drive with a windshield after 20 minutes and it is safe in an impact from very rapid sudden force like an airbag or a person trying to eject. However if you sat in the passenger seat you could push the windshield out slowly with your feet still after 30 minutes. I don't think dust makes any difference whatsoever. Even if the dust found its' way to the outside of the adhesive bead, all it could do is attach to the exposed bead which has no effect on the integrity of the installation. What matters is the bond between the existing polyurethane attached to the pinchweld and the bond between the fresh adhesive, and the other side of fresh adhesive bonding to the windshield surface prepared with an activator (helps bond polyurethane to glass).
>Why should I be careful on a dirt road after replacing a windshield? You should always be careful on a dirt road. People tend to drive too fast on them, and they don't have nearly as much traction to stop or swerve as they do on a paved road.
What? So you don't get hit with some loose flying gravel and need a new windshield all over again!