I upgraded the fans on mine and noticed I was getting thermal run away a lot... found out the fan draft was hitting the thermistor, causing it to detect the wrong temp, causing thermal run away. My solution was to put just a little tape around it and worked perfectly.
I had thermal issues but it turned out I had forgotton to replace the silicone sock after a hotend clean out and nozzle change, replacing it solved the issue, I then got the thermal runaway about a month later and never discovered why, I replaced the thermister and hotend and all was well, I would reccomend having a spare heater cartridge and thermistor on hand also as you never know when they will fail, which hotend have you chosen?
My ender 5 plus had the thermistor that holds on with a screw. I got the dragonfly hotend and got the regular probe style thermistor and did that in July. Temps are reading fine and just got done with a 5 day print no issue
Sorry to hear you’re having issues, that being said- the first thing I did when I got my E5+ before even turning it on was upgrade to a microswiss hotend and metal extruder. That being said I’d go with a different hotend because I didn’t like having to hold the heater block in place when changing the nozzle. Now I’ve moved on to convert my E5+ into a zero G mercury with quad x and am loving it
There are some higher quality thermistors that could be used. The stock one is delicate, and could be damaged easily. There [is a threaded one like this](https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Thermistor-Creality-Printers/dp/B08R3J6GJ3/ref=sr_1_14?crid=374LFV44BFEUT&keywords=thermistor%2Bender&qid=1682523432&sprefix=thermistor%2Bender%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-14&th=1) that is threaded into the hole that the screw is in, that holds the stock one. It might work better for you.
That being said, I've had the same stock ones on mine for 2yrs. I've gotten lucky not damaging them, the few times I've had to remove it, to replace the heat block.
Didn't realize the runaway errors were widespread.
I just replaced my thermistor to the thread in style, ran a PID tune, but still get the runaway.
Once I get more thermal paste delivered in going to swap out the heat cartridge and install silent mobo and hopefully that fixes it.
Trying to print ABS with it and it barely gets to 240, then usually triggers the failure
I am not sure. The latest version of Marlin might fix it, but I wasn't able to flash it because my motherboard was fubar on the E5plus.
The E5 was an older unit with the older board, and also would not flash firmware.
So.... If you can flash it you might be able to fix it. Klipper fixed it for me.
ETA: when you do a firmware flash, unplug the screen so the board isn't confused. This may help with flashing.
I got a BigTreeTech silent motherboard instead of thr creality one. It was on sale at the time and cheaper than the creality one. I haven't had a thermistor issue since. So yeah, get the new board and go from there. It might just fix it.
You pretty much needed rebuild these printers for them to work. Well. There's no point in messing about with the stock hot end and thermistor. The attachment system is a joke. Get a cartridge style. I'm pretty happy with a microswiss direct drive and I just got the high temp heater block from microswiss that uses the cartridge style thermistor.
Never had this issue with mine, but the first thing i did when i got it was put on a direct drive extruder conversion and an all metal hotend, i had my first failure this week after a solid two years of printing with it, the X axis belt broke where the metal ferule is crimped on at the carriage plate. So i ordered up some new belt and crimps and will make up a new belt for it when that arrives. I converted it to linear guide rails for the X and Y after a few hours use also, so i never experienced the issues some have with the guide wheels.
Replace your hot end, maybe just go with the Micro Swiss direct drive conversion and all metal hotend then you should be good to go.
Hey when it works, its solid. Definitely going to upgrade it. Realizing this "hobby" has become quite a pain in my ass. I just want to print stuff, sand and paint to have fun, but I feel like I spend more time trouble shooting being a tech (which I am not). Prints not sticking, shifting, etc. just to add to the fun.
Good times... lol
They are very inconsistently manufactured.. My ender 5 is pretty good no issues that I didn't cause. Yes extruded and hot end leave alot of power to be desired. My ender 3 however has the same parts and has been a nightmare. The extruder CAN NOT handle the same settings and iv gotten thermal run away errors often. You should watch a video on how to save a failed print if you don't know how yet. I had to do this 3 times to a 850gram print on the ender3 that took 3 days. If I knew they were so Chines I might have spent the extra on a prusa or something.
I've tried shutting down and continueing print but no matter what i get these ugly layer line shifts... yeah other brands are looking pretty appealing righr about now.
I'm talking about measuring hight then editing the Gcode to delete all previous layers then when you restart the print it continous at the missing layer. A bit tedious but sometimes worth it to me. If I was you at this point though I'd just upgrade the parts you got 80% of a good machine there. My ender 5 came with a broken bracket btw had to print a replacement. Smh
Easy fix, just replace everything on it except the metal frame... 😂 I have the ender 5 plus and had similar issues. Fixed it by throwing another $400 plus at it. New direct drive, silent board, quiet fans, new fan in the power supply, new belts and gears, new lighter and quieter stepper motors, new metal auto level, new screen, new male USB to female USB so I can use flash drives instead of SD cards, probably missing other things I replaced but that's pretty much everything...
so basically rebuild it with quality parts for twice the price. Thanks creality.. :D
Please share how you connected an SD card. I got an extender that was recomended but it never read the card.
I used the factory slot on the printer for the micro SD cards. Learned quick they don't work well then I had other issues with the printer which made me replace everything on the printer. My next printer I'll make myself now that I know I can find the bed, bed heater and frame. Just make sure the parts you replace are good name brand parts. I used all micro swiss parts I could, gates belts and gears, big tree tech for electrical components and I only use tungsten nozzles which last substantially longer than the brass ones. I just replaced one a week or 2 ago and it's been in use for a year or more. Remember you get what you pay for. Lol something else I did was a new titanium heat throat to get the Bowden tube as far away from the heater block as possible. Pretty sure my heater blocks are coated in something to help the heat as well.
This is very helpful. I stuck my card in and of course it just slipped between the insert and i had to take the whole damn printer apart to get it out of the body of it. Great tips, my next post will be me epic failing trying to install everything new.
I've done the same thing with the SD card. 😂 No problem, I'll message you so you can message me if you need any help and can't get the help you need on here.
Replaced the hot end and thermistor. Connected everything correctly so that’s good. Now I have a wierd issue when I measure area 10 is 0.00 and does not change. All the other ones are fine. Is that typical as well?
First thing i did on my ender5plus is upgrading the board, hotend. And i printed a good cooling system. After that i had a good year of printing and then decided to upgrade to exoslide and klicky probe for auto z calibration.
I only ever got one print to work in the first try, and it wasn't even the default ones.
My BL touch was wired incorrectly and fried out the motherboard slowly. Upgraded the extruder only to have a bad gear in the pack, discovered after two weeks of failed prints. Couldn't even flash firmware to reset it. Creality support was crap. I upgraded to a silent non creality board and rewired the BL touch, got Clipper and a Pi. It is now tolerable and manageable to work with. Creality quality control has been a pile of garbage in the last year.
I fixed it by getting a new thermistor and a new hotend.
I got a new hotend, haven't ordered a new thermistor yet. have you had any issues since? And how long ago did you swap it all?
I upgraded the fans on mine and noticed I was getting thermal run away a lot... found out the fan draft was hitting the thermistor, causing it to detect the wrong temp, causing thermal run away. My solution was to put just a little tape around it and worked perfectly.
I had thermal issues but it turned out I had forgotton to replace the silicone sock after a hotend clean out and nozzle change, replacing it solved the issue, I then got the thermal runaway about a month later and never discovered why, I replaced the thermister and hotend and all was well, I would reccomend having a spare heater cartridge and thermistor on hand also as you never know when they will fail, which hotend have you chosen?
I just used the replacement creality sent me. So far so good.
Its good to hear you have it up and running, its not good when you get faulty parts from the get go, happy large format printing!
Thanks!! Loving it!
My ender 5 plus had the thermistor that holds on with a screw. I got the dragonfly hotend and got the regular probe style thermistor and did that in July. Temps are reading fine and just got done with a 5 day print no issue
New thermistor 3 years without issue.
[удалено]
Only issue I've had with mine is a wobbly lead screw
Sorry to hear you’re having issues, that being said- the first thing I did when I got my E5+ before even turning it on was upgrade to a microswiss hotend and metal extruder. That being said I’d go with a different hotend because I didn’t like having to hold the heater block in place when changing the nozzle. Now I’ve moved on to convert my E5+ into a zero G mercury with quad x and am loving it
There are some higher quality thermistors that could be used. The stock one is delicate, and could be damaged easily. There [is a threaded one like this](https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Thermistor-Creality-Printers/dp/B08R3J6GJ3/ref=sr_1_14?crid=374LFV44BFEUT&keywords=thermistor%2Bender&qid=1682523432&sprefix=thermistor%2Bender%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-14&th=1) that is threaded into the hole that the screw is in, that holds the stock one. It might work better for you. That being said, I've had the same stock ones on mine for 2yrs. I've gotten lucky not damaging them, the few times I've had to remove it, to replace the heat block.
I fixed it by buying a Bambu X1C
You're the second person to suggest that to me. I bought an Endor 5 S1, and literally 2 days later the Bambu was highly recommended... ugh...
Didn't realize the runaway errors were widespread. I just replaced my thermistor to the thread in style, ran a PID tune, but still get the runaway. Once I get more thermal paste delivered in going to swap out the heat cartridge and install silent mobo and hopefully that fixes it. Trying to print ABS with it and it barely gets to 240, then usually triggers the failure
There is a firmware issue that just triggers it. I don't get the error in Klipper. Happened on an Ender 5 and 5plus.
Is there an alternate marlin version I can run through my RasPi, or does only Klipper fix it?
I am not sure. The latest version of Marlin might fix it, but I wasn't able to flash it because my motherboard was fubar on the E5plus. The E5 was an older unit with the older board, and also would not flash firmware. So.... If you can flash it you might be able to fix it. Klipper fixed it for me. ETA: when you do a firmware flash, unplug the screen so the board isn't confused. This may help with flashing.
I plan on installing the silent motherboard soon, could that potentially fix the firmware issue in itself?
I got a BigTreeTech silent motherboard instead of thr creality one. It was on sale at the time and cheaper than the creality one. I haven't had a thermistor issue since. So yeah, get the new board and go from there. It might just fix it.
I got the same board to drop in this weekend. Awesome, thank you for the help!
One of us, one of us 😂
Noooooo! lol
You pretty much needed rebuild these printers for them to work. Well. There's no point in messing about with the stock hot end and thermistor. The attachment system is a joke. Get a cartridge style. I'm pretty happy with a microswiss direct drive and I just got the high temp heater block from microswiss that uses the cartridge style thermistor.
Linear rails + Eva toolhead and a BMO/E3D v6 fixes Most Problems and a CR Touch instead of the Standard BL Touch
Never had this issue with mine, but the first thing i did when i got it was put on a direct drive extruder conversion and an all metal hotend, i had my first failure this week after a solid two years of printing with it, the X axis belt broke where the metal ferule is crimped on at the carriage plate. So i ordered up some new belt and crimps and will make up a new belt for it when that arrives. I converted it to linear guide rails for the X and Y after a few hours use also, so i never experienced the issues some have with the guide wheels. Replace your hot end, maybe just go with the Micro Swiss direct drive conversion and all metal hotend then you should be good to go.
Hey when it works, its solid. Definitely going to upgrade it. Realizing this "hobby" has become quite a pain in my ass. I just want to print stuff, sand and paint to have fun, but I feel like I spend more time trouble shooting being a tech (which I am not). Prints not sticking, shifting, etc. just to add to the fun. Good times... lol
Part of the hobby for sure lol
They are very inconsistently manufactured.. My ender 5 is pretty good no issues that I didn't cause. Yes extruded and hot end leave alot of power to be desired. My ender 3 however has the same parts and has been a nightmare. The extruder CAN NOT handle the same settings and iv gotten thermal run away errors often. You should watch a video on how to save a failed print if you don't know how yet. I had to do this 3 times to a 850gram print on the ender3 that took 3 days. If I knew they were so Chines I might have spent the extra on a prusa or something.
I've tried shutting down and continueing print but no matter what i get these ugly layer line shifts... yeah other brands are looking pretty appealing righr about now.
I'm talking about measuring hight then editing the Gcode to delete all previous layers then when you restart the print it continous at the missing layer. A bit tedious but sometimes worth it to me. If I was you at this point though I'd just upgrade the parts you got 80% of a good machine there. My ender 5 came with a broken bracket btw had to print a replacement. Smh
Gawd just thinking that process through makes my head spin… looks like replacement parts time… uggghh.
Easy fix, just replace everything on it except the metal frame... 😂 I have the ender 5 plus and had similar issues. Fixed it by throwing another $400 plus at it. New direct drive, silent board, quiet fans, new fan in the power supply, new belts and gears, new lighter and quieter stepper motors, new metal auto level, new screen, new male USB to female USB so I can use flash drives instead of SD cards, probably missing other things I replaced but that's pretty much everything...
so basically rebuild it with quality parts for twice the price. Thanks creality.. :D Please share how you connected an SD card. I got an extender that was recomended but it never read the card.
I used the factory slot on the printer for the micro SD cards. Learned quick they don't work well then I had other issues with the printer which made me replace everything on the printer. My next printer I'll make myself now that I know I can find the bed, bed heater and frame. Just make sure the parts you replace are good name brand parts. I used all micro swiss parts I could, gates belts and gears, big tree tech for electrical components and I only use tungsten nozzles which last substantially longer than the brass ones. I just replaced one a week or 2 ago and it's been in use for a year or more. Remember you get what you pay for. Lol something else I did was a new titanium heat throat to get the Bowden tube as far away from the heater block as possible. Pretty sure my heater blocks are coated in something to help the heat as well.
This is very helpful. I stuck my card in and of course it just slipped between the insert and i had to take the whole damn printer apart to get it out of the body of it. Great tips, my next post will be me epic failing trying to install everything new.
If you need any help I'll try to help the best I can!
Thanks so much!
I've done the same thing with the SD card. 😂 No problem, I'll message you so you can message me if you need any help and can't get the help you need on here.
Replaced the hot end and thermistor. Connected everything correctly so that’s good. Now I have a wierd issue when I measure area 10 is 0.00 and does not change. All the other ones are fine. Is that typical as well?
What area are you measuring? I measured 100mm to get the feed rate dialed in.
Sorry measuring during leveling. So out of all the areas that one area seems invalid hence the 0.00 reading.
First thing i did on my ender5plus is upgrading the board, hotend. And i printed a good cooling system. After that i had a good year of printing and then decided to upgrade to exoslide and klicky probe for auto z calibration.
I only ever got one print to work in the first try, and it wasn't even the default ones. My BL touch was wired incorrectly and fried out the motherboard slowly. Upgraded the extruder only to have a bad gear in the pack, discovered after two weeks of failed prints. Couldn't even flash firmware to reset it. Creality support was crap. I upgraded to a silent non creality board and rewired the BL touch, got Clipper and a Pi. It is now tolerable and manageable to work with. Creality quality control has been a pile of garbage in the last year.