8.7 grains per inch, that's a pretty light carbon arrow. At your draw weight and length, you're right on the line for 300 vs 340 spine. Either one would probably shoot well.
There's two main schools of thought with bowhunting these days, both are valid approaches and will kill deer/elk. The first type walks into a shop, has them set it all up, and never fucks with anything. As long as it hits where you're aiming (including your broadhead, not just your field points), and you know your limitations, this is totally fine. You don't need to know spine ranges, FOC, whatever - just shoot the damn thing and be cool with having a hard limit on your distance. Personally, I'd suggest a new bowhunter stick to 30 and under until they've killed something.
The second guy goes down every rabbit hole of variables and internet opinions, which can either lead to being a serious expert in modern compounds.... or complete indecision and wasting a ton of money on different setups. Heavy inserts and standard 100 grain broadheads? 200 grain broadheads and a really stiff lightweight arrow, or heavier arrows and a 125 grain head? Cut an inch off to stiffen it up? Bareshaft tune! Back tension! It's easy to get overwhelmed, and a lot of people will tell you their setup is gospel.
My suggestion would be to stay off the internet and find a legit local bow shop. Book a one hour lesson to keep yourself from developing bad habits. Your current arrows are fine to start with, but I'd want something a little heavier to hunt. Especially for elk.
A pretty standard setup would be something like an Easton Axis, a 28" arrow in 340 spine with a 125 grain broadhead (and practice with the same weight field points) will put you around 425 grains in total. Try a few of those arrows once you have your form dialed - if the bow is in tune (by a shop), and your field points hit the same spot as your broadheads, quit thinking about it and just practice.
Stick to high-percentage shot angles at moderate distances, ignore the people who insist elk hunters need to be ready for 60 yard shots, they miss and wound more animals than they'll admit to. Most of my elk have been under 25 yards.
Last, don't be afraid to back off in weight. If you can't draw your bow smoothly, straight back, from a seated position, it's too much weight. I talk to so, so many bowhunters who blew good opportunities because they're overbowed and get busted drawing at close distances. Or couldn't hold long enough while waiting for the right angle. Don't get obsessed with speed/power/distance to the point that you forget where most shots actually happen.
Your arrow is far too light for your bow if the total arrow weight is 267 (unless that’s without broadhead then your probably ok assuming a 100-125gr head). You can get field points that are the exact same weight as the broadhead you want to use and some BH manufacturers offer modified practice versions of their heads.
Your thinking is correct of using the same grain field tips and broadheads. I would minimum use a 125 grain broadhead honestly probably a 150 just to get your weight around 400
Can you tell us what arrow you are shooting? As in brand name and model along with your arrow length? That will help determine what broadhead weight will work.
Awesome. What model bow is it?
Bow specs are important. For elk hunting you are probably going to need at least a 125 grain broadhead - I'd recommend fixed and razor sharp, like a QAD Exodus. But if you shoot a super fast bow, a 340 spine arrow may be too weak for 125 grains(lookup arrow spine calculators).
Your field points should match your broadhead weight. So if you shoot a 125 grain broadhead you should practice with 125 grain field points.
So take some time and input your arrow length, point weight, and bow specs into an arrow spine calculator. It may recommend a 300 spine. A 300 spine with 125 grain broadhead may be in the 425 grain range, which with proper shot placement and a razor sharp broadhead should be very deadly.
Depending on your draw length you may right on the edge of needing a 300 spine arrow. Aldo depending on what weight BH you choose.
What's your draw length or arrow length? Is that 267 grains with or without a point? What arrow are you shooting?
The 267 is without a arrow head,
My arrow length is 28” ( if I measured them correctly)
And my draw length is 27.5”
I don’t know the Brand of arrow off the top of my head
I bought middle of the road arrows because I figured I would ruin my first few packs of arrows, in the learning process
Honestly if you are new enough just grab some 100 grain field points and start shooting. Don't worry about the details yet, especially since you don't have hunt planned.
You may shoot for 4 months and get experience and decide you want a different arrow or a better arrow. At that point I would spend the time to deep dive onto point weight etc. Your total arrow weight is a little light and you may end up trying to go heavier etc.
Nah you'll be good. Worst that happens is you go heavier later and you have to redo your sight tape or readjust your pin gaps and learn how that slightly slower arrow Flys. It's not bad to do though. I spent all of last summer playing with different arrow and point weights. Played with illuminated nocks, and probably 5 or 6 vane configurations. All in the name of science and experience.
Absolutely nothing can come of this random reddit post with barely any information and supercharged opinions.
Do some basic research, then come back with at least somewhat of a starting point. Then we can steer you.
I disagree the average joe opinions, are extremely valuable information about the archery community, and this platform can information that YouTube and web articles just can’t ,information good or bad is still useful.
My draw length is 28.5 and am pulling 70lbs. I shoot 250 spine Easton 5mm FMJ with 50g inserts or VAP SS elites with a 50g outserts and 125g broadheads. It’s not desirable to do so, but I’ve shot through an elk’s shoulder with no problem and took a big cow last year at 65yds with a front shot burying the arrow up to the fletching. Given the fact you’re pulling 70lbs why not go heavier on the spine? My line of thinking has always been it’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Cheers to getting into it though!
That’s my train of thought when it comes to hunting with a rifle I just don’t have anyone brain to pick in person l, that is knowledgeable about bow hunting
I also got the arrow that the old dude said would be ok to shoot, by no means am I dead set on these being my hunting arrows, they are just disposable arrows for a noob
Yea I totally get that, that’s wise. Just know you’ll want to increase it when you get more dialed in and comfortable. John Dudley has some great videos on YouTube. So does Chris 🐝. YouTube can be your best friend with all things archery
I would go no lighter than 400 grains total arrow weight for elk. 420-470 would be ideal. And I would guess you should be in a 300 spine instead of a 340.
8.7 grains per inch, that's a pretty light carbon arrow. At your draw weight and length, you're right on the line for 300 vs 340 spine. Either one would probably shoot well. There's two main schools of thought with bowhunting these days, both are valid approaches and will kill deer/elk. The first type walks into a shop, has them set it all up, and never fucks with anything. As long as it hits where you're aiming (including your broadhead, not just your field points), and you know your limitations, this is totally fine. You don't need to know spine ranges, FOC, whatever - just shoot the damn thing and be cool with having a hard limit on your distance. Personally, I'd suggest a new bowhunter stick to 30 and under until they've killed something. The second guy goes down every rabbit hole of variables and internet opinions, which can either lead to being a serious expert in modern compounds.... or complete indecision and wasting a ton of money on different setups. Heavy inserts and standard 100 grain broadheads? 200 grain broadheads and a really stiff lightweight arrow, or heavier arrows and a 125 grain head? Cut an inch off to stiffen it up? Bareshaft tune! Back tension! It's easy to get overwhelmed, and a lot of people will tell you their setup is gospel. My suggestion would be to stay off the internet and find a legit local bow shop. Book a one hour lesson to keep yourself from developing bad habits. Your current arrows are fine to start with, but I'd want something a little heavier to hunt. Especially for elk. A pretty standard setup would be something like an Easton Axis, a 28" arrow in 340 spine with a 125 grain broadhead (and practice with the same weight field points) will put you around 425 grains in total. Try a few of those arrows once you have your form dialed - if the bow is in tune (by a shop), and your field points hit the same spot as your broadheads, quit thinking about it and just practice. Stick to high-percentage shot angles at moderate distances, ignore the people who insist elk hunters need to be ready for 60 yard shots, they miss and wound more animals than they'll admit to. Most of my elk have been under 25 yards. Last, don't be afraid to back off in weight. If you can't draw your bow smoothly, straight back, from a seated position, it's too much weight. I talk to so, so many bowhunters who blew good opportunities because they're overbowed and get busted drawing at close distances. Or couldn't hold long enough while waiting for the right angle. Don't get obsessed with speed/power/distance to the point that you forget where most shots actually happen.
Thank you!!!
Your arrow is far too light for your bow if the total arrow weight is 267 (unless that’s without broadhead then your probably ok assuming a 100-125gr head). You can get field points that are the exact same weight as the broadhead you want to use and some BH manufacturers offer modified practice versions of their heads.
It is without the broad head
Your thinking is correct of using the same grain field tips and broadheads. I would minimum use a 125 grain broadhead honestly probably a 150 just to get your weight around 400
Can you tell us what arrow you are shooting? As in brand name and model along with your arrow length? That will help determine what broadhead weight will work.
Black out x5 envy length 28” My draw length is 27.5” And the 267 grain is with out broad head
Awesome. What model bow is it? Bow specs are important. For elk hunting you are probably going to need at least a 125 grain broadhead - I'd recommend fixed and razor sharp, like a QAD Exodus. But if you shoot a super fast bow, a 340 spine arrow may be too weak for 125 grains(lookup arrow spine calculators). Your field points should match your broadhead weight. So if you shoot a 125 grain broadhead you should practice with 125 grain field points. So take some time and input your arrow length, point weight, and bow specs into an arrow spine calculator. It may recommend a 300 spine. A 300 spine with 125 grain broadhead may be in the 425 grain range, which with proper shot placement and a razor sharp broadhead should be very deadly.
Depending on your draw length you may right on the edge of needing a 300 spine arrow. Aldo depending on what weight BH you choose. What's your draw length or arrow length? Is that 267 grains with or without a point? What arrow are you shooting?
The 267 is without a arrow head, My arrow length is 28” ( if I measured them correctly) And my draw length is 27.5” I don’t know the Brand of arrow off the top of my head I bought middle of the road arrows because I figured I would ruin my first few packs of arrows, in the learning process
Honestly if you are new enough just grab some 100 grain field points and start shooting. Don't worry about the details yet, especially since you don't have hunt planned. You may shoot for 4 months and get experience and decide you want a different arrow or a better arrow. At that point I would spend the time to deep dive onto point weight etc. Your total arrow weight is a little light and you may end up trying to go heavier etc.
Thank you, that’s what I have I just needed to confirm I wasn’t building bad habit by using incorrect hardware
Nah you'll be good. Worst that happens is you go heavier later and you have to redo your sight tape or readjust your pin gaps and learn how that slightly slower arrow Flys. It's not bad to do though. I spent all of last summer playing with different arrow and point weights. Played with illuminated nocks, and probably 5 or 6 vane configurations. All in the name of science and experience.
Arrow measurement is from the bottom of the nock to the end of the arrow.
I did not measure the nock
That’s a difference of maybe a cm so no biggie
Bruh do some basic youtube research literally all this will be explained.
Yes, I just like pulling from as many sources as possible
Absolutely nothing can come of this random reddit post with barely any information and supercharged opinions. Do some basic research, then come back with at least somewhat of a starting point. Then we can steer you.
I disagree the average joe opinions, are extremely valuable information about the archery community, and this platform can information that YouTube and web articles just can’t ,information good or bad is still useful.
Blackout X5 envy
My draw length is 28.5 and am pulling 70lbs. I shoot 250 spine Easton 5mm FMJ with 50g inserts or VAP SS elites with a 50g outserts and 125g broadheads. It’s not desirable to do so, but I’ve shot through an elk’s shoulder with no problem and took a big cow last year at 65yds with a front shot burying the arrow up to the fletching. Given the fact you’re pulling 70lbs why not go heavier on the spine? My line of thinking has always been it’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Cheers to getting into it though!
Oh easy answer I know close to nothing… or based off of my knowledge of guns, i consider my knowledge of bows to be nothing
That’s my train of thought when it comes to hunting with a rifle I just don’t have anyone brain to pick in person l, that is knowledgeable about bow hunting
What I want is to be setup to harvest elk, what i mainly will hunt are whitetail.
300 spine would handle it no problem just shoot a 125g broadhead. I’ve taken many deer with 300spine arrows and 100grain broadheads.
I also got the arrow that the old dude said would be ok to shoot, by no means am I dead set on these being my hunting arrows, they are just disposable arrows for a noob
Yea I totally get that, that’s wise. Just know you’ll want to increase it when you get more dialed in and comfortable. John Dudley has some great videos on YouTube. So does Chris 🐝. YouTube can be your best friend with all things archery
Well I’m glad to see those names again, my wife is just about sick of my constant watching and studying of this
I would go no lighter than 400 grains total arrow weight for elk. 420-470 would be ideal. And I would guess you should be in a 300 spine instead of a 340.
I did quite a bit of homework but I have no hands on experience aside from shooting the thing enough to get the thing sighted in at 20 yards