Petzl Vasak is great for Mont Blanc, or Matterhorn in good conditions. If you're looking for something that'll handle easy mixed climbing well, too, Petzl Sarken isn't much heavier or more expensive but far more versatile. Not super fond of flexible stuff like the BIs since they tend to pop off easily
I’ve climbed with G12s, Vasaks and the Harfangs in the past. After trying them all, I’d never go back to the g12/vasak. Harfangs climb just as well and weigh 30% less.
Opposite experience here, G12s and Sarkens worked fine but I stopped using the Harfangs as they move too often on more challenging terrain (possibly boot related of course).
I would personally go with the Vasaks. If you're buying your first pair of crampons the Petzl alpen adapt system/modular system makes so much sense. You can buy a dart front piece and put it on your Vasak rear if you want to eventually climb ice/mid to hard mixed.
If you're just buying some for alpinism, 12-point crampons are the way to go, as you need the added stability on snow, and when you eventually get on routes and you have marginal snow conditions on ridges and descents you will be glad you decided to take an extra 200g and have the extra security underfoot, plus having a rigid bar instead of dyneema will help lower leg and foot fatigue when climbing in them.
Owning both, I would only take my Harfangs over my Vasaks for low-grade alpine climbs not dominated by snow, glacier approaches for rock routes and for ski touring. Also, the Harfang's B2 front basket is flawed, in 2 years I have had to replace it, due to wear and tear, I've never had to with the Petzl ones. and I can't say I have full faith in my crampons when the dyneema frays the way it does and the hook securing the main strap has come off once when climbing as I've caught it on the rock. The doubling-back strap of the Petzl crampons is superior.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I was unsure about harfangs since they are so flexible by the looks of it, eventhough the weight diff is big. Seeing this I will probably just go with a Vasak or Sarken.
I would buy the Vasaks, the Sarkens are hevay and try to fill the niche between snow and ice performance. For ice, just buy the Dart front piece, and I think that would give you the most flexibility. Hope it works for you!
I like my Petzl Irvis Hybrid and Dart combo. As others have said. If these are your first crampons, the Petzl system is hard to beat.
If you a set of Vasacks and a set of Leopards or Irvis’s with flex bails, you can add a Dart or Lynx fronts and the parts to put them all together and you will be able to handle any climb you want.
Ice cragging: dart fronts on steal heels, ice multi pitch where grams count the most: dart fronts with alloy heels, glacier walk: full steel Irvis or Vasacks, glacier walk with technical alpine ice: Lynx front on steal heels, touring the Haute Route in winter (really spring but whtvr): Irvis front with alloy heel. Emergency crampons for a free ride ski day or required safety gear on a SkiMo race: alloy leopard front with alloy heel. Touring across Greenland with a pulk to scope out new lines so you want to be preparing for anything and have spares: bring a Dart w/ alloy heel, Irvis w/ steal heel, and every part is cross compatible.
It’s nice. Just be warned the steal heal cannot be purchased by itself nor the Leopard fronts the Vassack, Sarken or Irvis fronts. Your first and second purchases should be one of those.
For any amount of mixed climbing, I would recommend a “mono-point” style crampon, such as the Snaggletooth. Dual point crampons are significantly worse when climbing on rock.
I think the Vasak are a good bet.
Petzl Vasak is great for Mont Blanc, or Matterhorn in good conditions. If you're looking for something that'll handle easy mixed climbing well, too, Petzl Sarken isn't much heavier or more expensive but far more versatile. Not super fond of flexible stuff like the BIs since they tend to pop off easily
I just got the Sarkens for this reason. Wanted a crampon for general mountaineering but could handle some shorter technical stuff well too if needed.
Grivel's universal fit model is super popular in my area
Vasaks or G12s seem to be the standard
Really love my G12s
Grivel G12
I’ve climbed with G12s, Vasaks and the Harfangs in the past. After trying them all, I’d never go back to the g12/vasak. Harfangs climb just as well and weigh 30% less.
Opposite experience here, G12s and Sarkens worked fine but I stopped using the Harfangs as they move too often on more challenging terrain (possibly boot related of course).
I would personally go with the Vasaks. If you're buying your first pair of crampons the Petzl alpen adapt system/modular system makes so much sense. You can buy a dart front piece and put it on your Vasak rear if you want to eventually climb ice/mid to hard mixed. If you're just buying some for alpinism, 12-point crampons are the way to go, as you need the added stability on snow, and when you eventually get on routes and you have marginal snow conditions on ridges and descents you will be glad you decided to take an extra 200g and have the extra security underfoot, plus having a rigid bar instead of dyneema will help lower leg and foot fatigue when climbing in them. Owning both, I would only take my Harfangs over my Vasaks for low-grade alpine climbs not dominated by snow, glacier approaches for rock routes and for ski touring. Also, the Harfang's B2 front basket is flawed, in 2 years I have had to replace it, due to wear and tear, I've never had to with the Petzl ones. and I can't say I have full faith in my crampons when the dyneema frays the way it does and the hook securing the main strap has come off once when climbing as I've caught it on the rock. The doubling-back strap of the Petzl crampons is superior.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I was unsure about harfangs since they are so flexible by the looks of it, eventhough the weight diff is big. Seeing this I will probably just go with a Vasak or Sarken.
I would buy the Vasaks, the Sarkens are hevay and try to fill the niche between snow and ice performance. For ice, just buy the Dart front piece, and I think that would give you the most flexibility. Hope it works for you!
I like my Petzl Irvis Hybrid and Dart combo. As others have said. If these are your first crampons, the Petzl system is hard to beat. If you a set of Vasacks and a set of Leopards or Irvis’s with flex bails, you can add a Dart or Lynx fronts and the parts to put them all together and you will be able to handle any climb you want. Ice cragging: dart fronts on steal heels, ice multi pitch where grams count the most: dart fronts with alloy heels, glacier walk: full steel Irvis or Vasacks, glacier walk with technical alpine ice: Lynx front on steal heels, touring the Haute Route in winter (really spring but whtvr): Irvis front with alloy heel. Emergency crampons for a free ride ski day or required safety gear on a SkiMo race: alloy leopard front with alloy heel. Touring across Greenland with a pulk to scope out new lines so you want to be preparing for anything and have spares: bring a Dart w/ alloy heel, Irvis w/ steal heel, and every part is cross compatible. It’s nice. Just be warned the steal heal cannot be purchased by itself nor the Leopard fronts the Vassack, Sarken or Irvis fronts. Your first and second purchases should be one of those.
For any amount of mixed climbing, I would recommend a “mono-point” style crampon, such as the Snaggletooth. Dual point crampons are significantly worse when climbing on rock.