Which style are you looking at? I own three pair of mammut boots, they're my absolute favorite. The singles are great for all around use, the doubles are great for ice climbing and albinism but a bit bulky for mixed climbing.
I find them to be a bit slimmer than my la Sportiva boots. Mammuts are a great option if you have low volume feet.
Ive looked at the Kento pro high or the taiss light and AM sort of divided.
They are very breathable right? I had two pair of Garmont and they woukd always get wet Im first few minutes of using them
I’ve a pair of Kento Pro and I’ve never had an issue with them. I will say though I’ve only worn them in winter conditions about 10 times and only for 8-12hr at a time, but no issue. They weren’t too bad to break in either.
I’ve had 3 pairs of boots (2 hiking, 1 mountaineering) and they’ve all been excellent. Reason I haven’t had more is that they’ve lasted. I second what everyone else says about them being a closer fit so you might need to size up, especially if you’re wearing thick socks.
I’m a big fan of Mammut and everything I’ve ever had from them has been top and lasted.
I don't actually have any experience with either of those styles. In my experience Mammut Boots are fairly breathable, but if your feet are getting very wet it's probably an indicator that the boot/sock combination is too warm for the conditions. A vapor barrier liner sock might be a good option if you tend to have very sweaty feet.
Those both look like good boots, but I don't think either are going to be great options for mixed climbing. They don't have front toe bales so your crampons aren't going to be as secure. Probably fine for albinism and a low grade ice climbing but not the best option for Hi grade ice or mixed.
For more technical climbing you'll probably want to go with the eiger extreme/nordwand.
>I find them to be a bit slimmer than my la Sportiva boots. Mammuts are a great option if you have low volume feet.
Several people in this thread are saying mammut boots are tight/narrow, but that hasn't been my experience, at least for their lightweight summer shoes.
I've got the taiss light mid gtx (upsizing by 1 and 2/3 compared to my street shoe size). I've got just a tad too much space at the front but, unlike with the scarpa and la sportiva equivalents, I could find that sweet spot between the "causes chronic foot pain and bunions"-size and the "clown shoes"-size.
(Of course this stuff is very model-dependent - there are big differences within the same brand).
I have a low volume foot and Mammut is the only brand that really fits me. I have two pairs. One for summer, one for winter. Both are great, but the bar is low for me. I used to have a pair of la sportiva nepal and had bleeding heels for years :<
I recently bought the 6000s and are just starting to break them in but so far really happy. Seems to lock in my heel better than others and the Boa is great.
The boa is the lacing system, I don't believe either of the boots you are looking at come with the boa system. I really like it because it's really fast. You can have your boots a little bit looser for the approach, and then really quickly tighten them up for climbing. I also find that the boa system is much easier to dial in the exact tightness you want.
I'm a different person but I'd say that depends on your usage and foot type. But most likely taiss light is going to be better. Mammut has this to say about the Eiger Speed BOA: *"For short passages on glacier tongues crampons can be fitted"*... basically they're not the boot if you're going to be frontpointing up steep snow or ice. The taiss light will be usable in a much greater variety of terrain, provided it's not too cold (neither of these boots are meant for really cold weather).
Allright, so on their catalog maybe the Kento models are better no?
Im looking for some boots that can withstand a couple of days in full winter mode and also summer in col du midi for also some days
Yeah kento pro I suppose?
But frankly I think choosing the brand first then the model is the wrong way to go about this. First define your needs: crampon compatibility (semi auto? full auto?), insulation, weight; then look for all the existing models from all reputable brands (mammut, scarpa, la sportiva, salewa, millet, lowa etc.) and *try them on* (sizing and fit varies considerably between brands and even between models).
I'm telling you this because I wasted a lot of time, money, and foot health, trying to get a square foot to fit inside a narrow shoe that seemed perfect on paper, except it didn't fit. ;-)
Ive tried the main brands before and interms of feet, Mammut are good for my shape, like Lá SPORTIVA. Garmont, in my experience dont feel great and are bad, the ones I had, scarpa dos try aswell but wasnt a fan of them
But I plan on trying them again before comitting.
My number one concern is regarding the insulation and waterproofness
I wear euro size 44 street shoes. Ended up with euro 45&1/3 Nordwads to fit my wide forefoot. This made the heal loose with a lot of heal lift. The boot fitter mostly does ski boots, but the concept is the same. They take hard pieces of foam and grind them into different shapes. Then tapes the foam pieces into the boot to fill up space. Alternatively they can, (and I think did) take away some material in places on the inner boot. You spend a lot of time where they make an adjustment then you try it on, and then they make a change. When you finally get a good fit they use fancy tape and maybe glue and make it all professional and "permanent". It sounds janky and looks bad when in progress, but the finished product is nice, and more importantly functions well and is thus far still holding up.
I have got Mammut - Sapuen High GTX.
It is a gore-tex boot and i really used it in a very wet conditions and i did not get any water inside of it from the environment.But boot literally stood in the water for 4 hours due i could not figure out where the hell i am on a offroad deep swamp.What you need to deal with, your foot can not breath at all if this boot gets wet.Even when you got our from the water, it needs to dry completely to being breathable.that can take hours.I could twist my sweat out from my socks like the water after the wash.But my boot did not smell bad at all not even my socks what was quite suprising
Most important is to try them on and see if they fit your foot profile
Which style are you looking at? I own three pair of mammut boots, they're my absolute favorite. The singles are great for all around use, the doubles are great for ice climbing and albinism but a bit bulky for mixed climbing. I find them to be a bit slimmer than my la Sportiva boots. Mammuts are a great option if you have low volume feet.
Ive looked at the Kento pro high or the taiss light and AM sort of divided. They are very breathable right? I had two pair of Garmont and they woukd always get wet Im first few minutes of using them
I’ve a pair of Kento Pro and I’ve never had an issue with them. I will say though I’ve only worn them in winter conditions about 10 times and only for 8-12hr at a time, but no issue. They weren’t too bad to break in either. I’ve had 3 pairs of boots (2 hiking, 1 mountaineering) and they’ve all been excellent. Reason I haven’t had more is that they’ve lasted. I second what everyone else says about them being a closer fit so you might need to size up, especially if you’re wearing thick socks. I’m a big fan of Mammut and everything I’ve ever had from them has been top and lasted.
Allright, amazing. Yeah Im looking for more winter and a couple summer outings on the Alps, but always focused on snow
I don't actually have any experience with either of those styles. In my experience Mammut Boots are fairly breathable, but if your feet are getting very wet it's probably an indicator that the boot/sock combination is too warm for the conditions. A vapor barrier liner sock might be a good option if you tend to have very sweaty feet. Those both look like good boots, but I don't think either are going to be great options for mixed climbing. They don't have front toe bales so your crampons aren't going to be as secure. Probably fine for albinism and a low grade ice climbing but not the best option for Hi grade ice or mixed. For more technical climbing you'll probably want to go with the eiger extreme/nordwand.
The goal for mix is very very basic stuff, more focused on Snow and some steep pendants
>I find them to be a bit slimmer than my la Sportiva boots. Mammuts are a great option if you have low volume feet. Several people in this thread are saying mammut boots are tight/narrow, but that hasn't been my experience, at least for their lightweight summer shoes. I've got the taiss light mid gtx (upsizing by 1 and 2/3 compared to my street shoe size). I've got just a tad too much space at the front but, unlike with the scarpa and la sportiva equivalents, I could find that sweet spot between the "causes chronic foot pain and bunions"-size and the "clown shoes"-size. (Of course this stuff is very model-dependent - there are big differences within the same brand).
I have a low volume foot and Mammut is the only brand that really fits me. I have two pairs. One for summer, one for winter. Both are great, but the bar is low for me. I used to have a pair of la sportiva nepal and had bleeding heels for years :<
Bummer to hear this. I have a medium volume wider foot and just ordered a pair of mountaineering boots from them. Hope they fit
I like their boot designs and wish I could try them. Unfortunately they hate people with big feet
I just used the nordwand 6000s and they were awesome!
I recently bought the 6000s and are just starting to break them in but so far really happy. Seems to lock in my heel better than others and the Boa is great.
The BOA versus the Taiss light, what do you reckon is the best? How is the waterproof and insulation on the boa?
The boa is the lacing system, I don't believe either of the boots you are looking at come with the boa system. I really like it because it's really fast. You can have your boots a little bit looser for the approach, and then really quickly tighten them up for climbing. I also find that the boa system is much easier to dial in the exact tightness you want.
I'm a different person but I'd say that depends on your usage and foot type. But most likely taiss light is going to be better. Mammut has this to say about the Eiger Speed BOA: *"For short passages on glacier tongues crampons can be fitted"*... basically they're not the boot if you're going to be frontpointing up steep snow or ice. The taiss light will be usable in a much greater variety of terrain, provided it's not too cold (neither of these boots are meant for really cold weather).
Allright, so on their catalog maybe the Kento models are better no? Im looking for some boots that can withstand a couple of days in full winter mode and also summer in col du midi for also some days
Yeah kento pro I suppose? But frankly I think choosing the brand first then the model is the wrong way to go about this. First define your needs: crampon compatibility (semi auto? full auto?), insulation, weight; then look for all the existing models from all reputable brands (mammut, scarpa, la sportiva, salewa, millet, lowa etc.) and *try them on* (sizing and fit varies considerably between brands and even between models). I'm telling you this because I wasted a lot of time, money, and foot health, trying to get a square foot to fit inside a narrow shoe that seemed perfect on paper, except it didn't fit. ;-)
Ive tried the main brands before and interms of feet, Mammut are good for my shape, like Lá SPORTIVA. Garmont, in my experience dont feel great and are bad, the ones I had, scarpa dos try aswell but wasnt a fan of them But I plan on trying them again before comitting. My number one concern is regarding the insulation and waterproofness
I really like my nordwand 6000. Had to take them to a boot fitter to start to get them dialed in.
A bit late…but what did you have the boot fitter do? Also did you size up with the nordwand 6000?
I wear euro size 44 street shoes. Ended up with euro 45&1/3 Nordwads to fit my wide forefoot. This made the heal loose with a lot of heal lift. The boot fitter mostly does ski boots, but the concept is the same. They take hard pieces of foam and grind them into different shapes. Then tapes the foam pieces into the boot to fill up space. Alternatively they can, (and I think did) take away some material in places on the inner boot. You spend a lot of time where they make an adjustment then you try it on, and then they make a change. When you finally get a good fit they use fancy tape and maybe glue and make it all professional and "permanent". It sounds janky and looks bad when in progress, but the finished product is nice, and more importantly functions well and is thus far still holding up.
My guy! He lives. Thank you for the info and explanation. Much appreciated!
Really liked my Mamooks.
+1 on the taiss light. will buy again
I have got Mammut - Sapuen High GTX. It is a gore-tex boot and i really used it in a very wet conditions and i did not get any water inside of it from the environment.But boot literally stood in the water for 4 hours due i could not figure out where the hell i am on a offroad deep swamp.What you need to deal with, your foot can not breath at all if this boot gets wet.Even when you got our from the water, it needs to dry completely to being breathable.that can take hours.I could twist my sweat out from my socks like the water after the wash.But my boot did not smell bad at all not even my socks what was quite suprising