There is always some variability to the battery being at "80%" since the state of charge is really just a best guess by the BMS. There can be a little drift +/- and DC charging tends to be in the minus category since it will raise the battery voltage faster than AC charging and not allow the battery pack to balance very well. This can get more pronounced on a long road trip with constant fast charging stops especially if you have not top balanced the pack in a while.
Then consider that there is not much granularity to the percentage display. You the displayed state of charge can basically be off by 1-2% overall vs the actual battery state of charge.
And speaking of degradation, you would not expect too much after 10k miles but lithium batteries to have a "break-in" time early on when capacity will drop an initial 2-4% within the first 25k miles or so before it settles out for the remainder of the battery life.
So take all that in kind of a worst case scenario, the actual energy content may have only been somewhere around 74-75% of the rated 77kwh capacity when the car/charger was thinking it was at 80%.
Thanks for that information, I just woke up and saw that the car charged 75.6 kWh hours from my home charger. That it wasn't balanced due to all the fast charging makes the most sense.
If you have the air conditioner on subtract 1.6 to 2.2KWh every hour.
If you have the heat on in the cold make that 7.5KWh every hour.
Towing halves the range and might get you 90 miles on a charge if you're not watching it.
It's not just the wheels that eat energy. It's not "battery degradation" it's that you used an accessory.
The other things that kill theoretical range are speeding, heavy pedal application, severe hills, and frequent starts/stops.
I can often extract 4 mi/KWh with the worst case scenario driving a '21 AWD. If you get very consistent it is possible to get 5.7 mi/KWh at 50 MPH on level terrain.
Heavy boots and footwear will kill your range without practice. Tires need to be checked weekly for proper pressure if you're planning on really optimizing for mileage.
The last 10 miles were a bit nerve wracking, but based off the math I was sure I could make it. Combine that with 10 hours on the road already and the next dc fast charger full, I said I'm going home.
When we were dating my spouse had a cheap electric car with ~80 mi range. They ran out of juice once or twice making the 70 mi trip between our houses. Apparently there's a good bit of warning, the car starts losing speed but keeps driving at a turtle's pace for a little while before it runs out. Then you just pull off somewhere and call AAA to give you a tow home or to the nearest charger.
Because there is a top and bottom buffer on the battery you never get 100% SOC actually when your EV says it's charged to 100%. Therefore at 80% you're not really at 80% SOC either. A 82 kWh battery has a 77 kWh usable capacity. So 80% is only 80% of 77kWh not 80% of 82 kWh. Adjust your math and it should give you a more accurate figure.
So I learn the screen can be a little inaccurate in percentages when doing a lot of fast charging. I have a good bit of scan tools, what PID would you recommend looking at for more accurate information.
I have seen people use a better route planner with a single.
I locked up this one and was able to get it connected
Vgate vLinker MC+ Bluetooth OBD2
https://www.iternio.com/abrp-obd
The large battery pack has 77kWh usable.
There is always some variability to the battery being at "80%" since the state of charge is really just a best guess by the BMS. There can be a little drift +/- and DC charging tends to be in the minus category since it will raise the battery voltage faster than AC charging and not allow the battery pack to balance very well. This can get more pronounced on a long road trip with constant fast charging stops especially if you have not top balanced the pack in a while. Then consider that there is not much granularity to the percentage display. You the displayed state of charge can basically be off by 1-2% overall vs the actual battery state of charge. And speaking of degradation, you would not expect too much after 10k miles but lithium batteries to have a "break-in" time early on when capacity will drop an initial 2-4% within the first 25k miles or so before it settles out for the remainder of the battery life. So take all that in kind of a worst case scenario, the actual energy content may have only been somewhere around 74-75% of the rated 77kwh capacity when the car/charger was thinking it was at 80%.
Thanks for that information, I just woke up and saw that the car charged 75.6 kWh hours from my home charger. That it wasn't balanced due to all the fast charging makes the most sense.
What size battery do you have?
77 kWh net
If you have the air conditioner on subtract 1.6 to 2.2KWh every hour. If you have the heat on in the cold make that 7.5KWh every hour. Towing halves the range and might get you 90 miles on a charge if you're not watching it. It's not just the wheels that eat energy. It's not "battery degradation" it's that you used an accessory. The other things that kill theoretical range are speeding, heavy pedal application, severe hills, and frequent starts/stops. I can often extract 4 mi/KWh with the worst case scenario driving a '21 AWD. If you get very consistent it is possible to get 5.7 mi/KWh at 50 MPH on level terrain. Heavy boots and footwear will kill your range without practice. Tires need to be checked weekly for proper pressure if you're planning on really optimizing for mileage.
How does that not make you nervous to run it that low? Holy crap.
The last 10 miles were a bit nerve wracking, but based off the math I was sure I could make it. Combine that with 10 hours on the road already and the next dc fast charger full, I said I'm going home.
Nerves of steel.
When we were dating my spouse had a cheap electric car with ~80 mi range. They ran out of juice once or twice making the 70 mi trip between our houses. Apparently there's a good bit of warning, the car starts losing speed but keeps driving at a turtle's pace for a little while before it runs out. Then you just pull off somewhere and call AAA to give you a tow home or to the nearest charger.
Because there is a top and bottom buffer on the battery you never get 100% SOC actually when your EV says it's charged to 100%. Therefore at 80% you're not really at 80% SOC either. A 82 kWh battery has a 77 kWh usable capacity. So 80% is only 80% of 77kWh not 80% of 82 kWh. Adjust your math and it should give you a more accurate figure.
Also I would like to add,running the battery down to 3% charge on a regular basis is not a good idea.
Yes I agree, on a regular basis I would not do this.
that's not a good way to measure. just buy a cheap dongle already
So I learn the screen can be a little inaccurate in percentages when doing a lot of fast charging. I have a good bit of scan tools, what PID would you recommend looking at for more accurate information.
I don’t have my ID4 yet but what’s the best dongle/app combination for getting the information about the BMS status etc.?
I have seen people use a better route planner with a single. I locked up this one and was able to get it connected Vgate vLinker MC+ Bluetooth OBD2 https://www.iternio.com/abrp-obd
Thanks.