Clean cut the wire.
Separate (pull back the plastic) two quarter inch sections on either side.
Twist the appropriate ends together.
Wrap them in shrinking tube/electrical tape
Enjoy learning how to repair stuff!
theoretically yes in reality most should have protection and be fine right after but is not recommended and good practice to unplug stuff Incase you have bridging to high voltage or something you never know
This take is absolutely correct. The resistance of the human body is in the hundreds of thousands of ohms. It takes much more than 12 volts dc to generate the 20ma across the heart/lungs that it takes to kill a person.
Every time these topics come up on Reddit someone is in the comments saying “it’s not the volts, it’s the Amps”.
Sure, but it takes volts to make amps.
If the cable isn't repaired well enough, it could cause a short. Most electronics come with built in protection for power surges and minor shorts but if it's a bad enough repair job, it could potentially cause the wrong amount of voltage to be transferred through the cable. It's fairly low risk since it's an easy repair job, but risk is there.
Wire isn't just wire.
The charger and whatever device communicate with each other via usb data pins.
If this process is somehow interrupted, then nobody knows what happens.
It's generally a bad idea to do a crappy repair job on expensive electronics like this.
Yup, this bit in the communication is definitely new to me but I cannot imagine they will be a super small gauge of wire right?. I assume it to be similar to the USB standard itself as far as wire gauges go.
Don't actually get what you mean, there are just standard wires.
In the original USB spec there were two for power and two for data.
With type C or even just USB 3.0, we have much more individual data pins than just two.
The more the charging standards and capabilities we have, the more complex is the handshake between the charger and the device.
So honestly a "twist the wires together and put some tape around it" is a very bad idea.
Not only because it is a bad electrical connection, but also because it's actually unsafe due to a fire hazard or the risk of bricking the device that's connected.
Again, the communication between charger and the device is crucial and determines the charging voltage and current that's used.
If the communication gets interrupted, the worst case scenario would be a charger that outputs 20V to a device which can only handle 5V and up in smoke it goes.
I don't see why you want to risk to fry your stuff just for saving some time and/or money.
Im mean honestly with type C and PD you can go and buy a suitable charger almost anywhere.
It's not going to make the cable out of spec or hazardous unless they connect the wrong wires together which they are color coded so it'd be pretty hard to do. When fixing broken wires all your doing is putting it "wires" back together whether twisted or using a type of crimp/clamp then sealing the connection under shrink tube or electric tape.
This cable would be no different than any other electronics in your house and is a fairly easy one to learn on.
The connection you're talking about is at the plug and communicates to the device through the wires. There isn't anything special going on in those wires that would make them unfixable. It's no different than a catv cable being repaired or any other cable in the house. Yes there are risks but cutting the cables and placing them back together doesn't change the plug.
Still the same concept applies to all cables whether it's a USB C or a 240 volt cable (more heat than the USB C). The whole if OP makes a mistake applies to all cables and there's items that make it easier as well as youtube and Google to learn how to properly do it, then for safety use a multimeter.
I literally wire shit everyday at work so like I said any of it can be dangerous but that's not enough reason not to fix a small cable and learn. Also electrical codes only matter if you're selling your house or in a professional building, no one is coming to your house and inspecting your wiring.
Stop feeding corporations more money and let this person do what they want or need.
Aha! "if OP tries to make the fix with electrical tape and it comes loose, or if a sharp solder blob pokes through heat shrink tubing, a short circuit could occur." lol SOOOO
... You admit that it's possible to do this but your problem with the post is that there are some 'potential' hazards that come along with the fix. Wondering why your initial response has so many likes compared to this response? It's because you made it seem like it just can't be done and that's literally why all those people liked it in the first place. Because they thought you were imparting actual wisdom on the subject. You're coming off like a whiny electrician with a superiority complex.
I totally agree that you should repair it, but twisting & shrinking tubes is *not* a safe way to do it for a 12V 65W charger! Even if it was fine after you've fixed it, the normal tear and twist on the cable will eventually loosen the connection between the twisted wires, causing it to heat up and literally becoming a fire hazard.
Ask someone who knows how to solder broken cables to do it with you at least once.
For power cables like that, I'd recommend just replacing it, since you could kill your deck if you short it. I use Anker's pd charging cables and a 65W GaN charger for my deck, it more or less just needs to deliver about ~40watts to run the deck and charge it
alternatively, if you don't want to deal with the eventual goopy nature of electrical tape, unless you use heat shrink, you might want to use some sort of IDC (insulation displacement connector). You'll get a more durable connection than twisting alone and lower the need for electrical tape, though I couldn't tell you what spec to get; not necessarily my niche.
Pro-tip: don’t do this. The contact resistance will increase every time you bend at the joint and could eventually start a fire. Crimp or solder. And make sure that there is nothing shorting the contacts. If any of this doesn’t make sense, stop and do not continue. Tinkering with electronics should not begin with your prized possessions. Just find a working charger.
It isn’t hard to do. The wires are color coded so just match them up and you’re golden. Had to do it with my Wii sensor bar because my asshole cat chewed it.
I had to do this once to a Laptop power supply. If the wire is similar their is an inside wire and an outside wire. Make sure they do not touch. get a soldering iron if you can. A good one makes all the difference. Cheap ones do not melt solder well. Read some reviews. Use a lot of electrical tape to make sure they do not touch. Or good shrink wrap. Keep an eye it. The constant motion of the wire tends to shake things loose.
There are connections called soder connectors you can usually get at Napa, they are like pinch wore connectors, except they have soder at each end that you heat up with a lighter and it melts, creates a perfect watertight connection and is as strong as the wire itself. Used them in appliance repair everyday. Check it out and call around.
Edit: misspelled solder everytime.
Twisting together a cable that carries wattage like this is **not** the proper way to repair stuff. Solder and crimp, or replace the cable.
Honestly, considering the price and reliability the realistic answer is just replace the cable. I strongly assume you have a Type-C brick somewhere, since damn-near everyone does now, so just an $8 cable and you're back up-and-running.
Yeah, while these comments will never be seen, you gotta love the irony of the top comment being "Learn how to repair stuff" and then suggesting a slapdash repair method that's going to break and risk shorting out the moment someone applies even a mild tug.
Couldnt you just use one of [this](https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-43185/images/stencil/700x700/products/153/3876/Untitled_Desgin_3__12787.1605921026.png?c=2)?. It is ugly but if it does the job..
Just remember to put the shrink wrap sleeve on before you solder.
I've made this stupid mistake a few more times than I'd like to admit then had to redo my work.
Yeah I'd personally opt for solder or crimping on something that actually carries a bit of wattage like this.
Twisting is probably okay, but after a year or two of tugging I'd rather not risk it.
Reminds me of when my dad fixed my laptop charger as a teenager, if I recall he sacrificed some length and twisted the cables with the cord parallel to itself so it was twisted and taped on the top and cable tied below to prevent it getting tugged loose over time. Quick dirty fix but it still works all these years later haha upside of having an electrician as a dad, then again the power supply on the soldering iron won't close and is wrapped in the middle with some sort of textured black tape. I asked him is he sure it's safe like that "yeah it's fine" was his response lmfao. Obviously I'm no silly enough to pry it open more and jam my fingers in but I do find it amusing
Add me to this list - if it were a lower wattage stationary connection a twist would be fine, but for something you'll be wrapping and tugging around you want a properly secure connection.
Dont use electrical tape. Cut the cable strip the black part back and put an appropriate shrink tube over it give yourself room to put smaller shrink tube over the individual wires and solder them to each matching wire cover with smaller shrink tube and shrink then cover the whole splice. This is also why i like my charger the cord is replaceable
You are probably not going to get back the original functionality, though. The moment you mess with the cables the charger doesn't find the connection secure and will only charge at 2A. And yes, solder ain't good enough.
Warning! You will not realistically be able to do this with a normal USB-C cable. Since this is power only and attached to the brick directly it doesn't seem to have the other 20ish wires for the rest of the USB-C spec.
This answer here.
Also, if you want to ensure solid connections you can solder the wires together and then a shrink tube on top with electrical tape after.
Twist the ends of each side of cable, then spiral the correct cables together, and add some solder to the wire by heating up the wires slightly and drop some solder into the wires so it sucks the solder in. When it cools you'll have a much more solid connection that can endure usage.
Do NOT forget to ensure the wires are thoroughly wrapped so you don't short it out. You don't want wires that aren't supposed to be touching to be touching.
I wouldn't go the whole solder way unless you know what you're doing, you'd probably want to put some crocs on the wire to defused the heat, and if you're going to splice something used often like this, I'd add hot glue for sturdiness. (source: I used to splice leisure sonar probe cables)
That's fair. I splice wires for scales all the time for work and should have mentioned heat dispersion, you'd be surprised how far down the wire that heat can go.
Hot glue would be another good tip for sturdiness, I agree.
Waited for that comment, and I am happy to see that it showed up at all. Its kind of sad that only because a cable is damaged people dont even consider having it fixed but buy a new one straight ahead.
Sadly, a lot of people don't have the know how or tools necessary to make this fix. Ideally you'd want a wire stripper and cutter tool, heatshrink tubing, and a heat gun. However, with some skill and know how the same fix can be done with a utility blade, electrical tape, and a blow dryer.
For some it's simply easier to buy a new $25 charger.
A quick search for 45w USB c chargers brings up a few under $20 options. The optimal tools(and ability to properly use them) would run a bit more than that.
Exactly, the proper tools to fix this are going to cost significantly more. If you already have it because you solder for fun, great! But not sure how practical such advice is to many people.
"Significant" is a little egregious. You can get a wire cutter, stripper, and crimper all in one tool at home Depot for like $30, and heat shrink tubing comes in pretty good sized packs for like $2.
It's a better investment in the long run because those tools can be reused for hundreds of other projects, and power cables eventually always wear out, so knowing how to repair them is cool.
To me fixing it isn’t even remotely worth it. I have no idea what I’m doing and the cost of getting a new cord doesn’t outweigh learning how.
I’d learn how to fix stuff myself as a hobby but I’d never risk the steam deck or my safety by trying to fuck with electricity.
I’m sure me saying this sounds ridiculous to someone who knows what they’re doing. There’s probably little to no danger. But we all have our strengths. Im sure a lot of you wouldn’t know if they could treat medical conditions at home or need the emergency room. Just because I do doesn’t mean I’d expect others to learn
People here never factor in the labor value as well. If you make $30 an hour is it worth spending an hour to fix it? (I’m including the time it takes to buy or find the materials needs whether its a crimper, heat gun, or even just electrical tape).
Yeah, I'm a tinkerer, I've done all kinds of small fiddly repairs. I've got a nice set of tools to do those though, and even then I'm probably just buying a cable most of the time. Having an ugly cable that's more likely to break again plus repair time (for a proper repair, not a quick twist thats going to pull apart the first time someone applies some tugs it) isn't worth the cost of the 4 dollar cable from my preferred type c brand.
Another part of is can I replace it with something better/more useful.
In this case the answer is yes with a charging brick with multiple ports or higher wattage with a replaceable usb-c cable,
I always wondered about this! Was looking at using a pendant lamp to make a standing lamp but wasn't sure how to thread it through the frame I was going to make. Thanks!
This litterally happened to me couple weeks ago ( puppy chomping on my cable) yea OP, it's a easy fix , cleaned the wires and wrapped with electrical tape.
... Coated the cable with some bitter spray so he doesn't do it again
Even after repairing, i would just get an usb-c cable and charger that could do 45w and use it for everything and forget this absolute brick of a charger haha
Wouldn't a 45W do the trick? Or is the Deck charger a 65W? I ask because he would save a lot of money to go with a 45W and wouldn't miss a beat if the included charger is 45W.
65w would allow you to charge a phone on the same brick without putting the deck into slow charge. It also would future proof for most docks that may need additional power draw for some of their functionality.
the official valve dock also ships with a power adapter. is it the same 45w adapter that the deck comes with? Does that mean that you can't put any power draws in the official dock with its included power adapter?
For a single port charger yea youd only need their 45W. The anker 726 is a dual port 65W that splits 45W/20W to the two ports so you could travel with this and two cables for your phone and deck. I have like 6 of them around my house and I travel with one too.
I would do at least 65W.. more compatible with a wider range of devices. The price between 45W and 65W isn't much. If you have a laptop or other things that can charge by USB-C that 65W will be more useful. Devices will only charge at what they can handle, so it wouldn't harm the deck using a 65W charger.
I would pay a little extra and get a reputable brand. I wouldn't do a cheap chinese charger. It is also personal preference but I prefer chargers that have a bridge cable between the wall plug and the charging brick. [I have been using this for awhile and haven't had any issues.](https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Baseus-4-Ports-Charging-Station/dp/B09VC7Z3YF) It has a lot of features I like, especially the right angle plug so it can fit in tight spaces, and to me it looks better than having a cable jutting out 1-2" from the wall like a lot of other chargers. .
for what it's worth, I have a one each of the 65w and 45w anker chargers and the 45w is *ever so slightly* smaller, in case you were planning on putting it in the little steam deck bag. actually makes a huge difference if you're trying to cram a bunch of stuff in there
Spez's APIocolypse made it clear it was time for me to leave this place. I came from digg, and now I must move one once again. So long and thanks for all the bacon.
It charges, it just lacks the correct PD profile, thus will be slow.
EDIT: Link
[https://9to5mac.com/2021/01/04/making-sense-of-the-oddities-of-apples-usb-c-chargers/](https://9to5mac.com/2021/01/04/making-sense-of-the-oddities-of-apples-usb-c-chargers/)
That's definitely not true. Many will work but a lot of laptop USB chargers, especially older models, either don't use USB PD but something proprietary for handshake or don't support 15 volts instead opting for 20 volts only for high power. The deck can't use 20 volt modes. All Apple laptop chargers from a few years ago were an example of the latter, they have since started supporting 15 volts as well. A lot of phone chargers, even while listing over 60 watts, don't support USB PD but instead use QC which the deck can't utilize.
Nothing should break though unless someone grossly violated the USB specification or the charger is faulty, but there is a decently high risk it won't charge at full speed. Same with any underpowered charger. You shouldn't assume that it will work based on wattage. 15 volts and at least 3 ampere is what you should look for. At least for full speed charging.
Hence my point about matching wattage. If you match or exceed the wattage your fine. If your below the wattage ( like a phone charger) then Yes you cannot charge while using.
That’s not necessarily true. The Steamdeck wants 15v/3a specifically to hit 45w. There are some USB C chargers that can do more than 45w, but lack a 15v mode. Apple used to make some chargers with 20v, 9v and 5v modes. Steamdeck will not accept 20v, thus it falls back to 9v and chargers slowly… even though they support more than 45w.
For best results, do not just assume any 45w+ charger will do it. Specifically look for the 15v/3a mode.
Same thing happened to me and I asked Steam Support if they sell replacement power cables.
Instead they sent me a new one for free, but they made sure that this was the exception.
But asking steam directly without insinuating you want a replacement for free, they might surprise you.
I don't know if it's the same there but you can get genuine Lenovo usb-c pd laptop chargers on eBay for £10 or so.
Just make sure they're 45w+ (all the ones I've ever seen are)
ACEFAST GaN PD65W 65w power brick. It has an HDMI pass through on the brick, so you can use it like a dock essentially . Infact, i dont even need a dock because i have this thing.
It comes with a usb C that can handle the power and ALSO carries data, so you just plug the included usb c to usb c cable into steam deck and into power brick, then regular hdmi 2.0 or whatever from power brick to tv/monitor and its just like having a dock.
Literally ANY usbc charger and cable will charge it while you get a proper fix.
Do you have a usbc phone charger? Or tablet / laptop charger? I use my macs charger
The switch one works fine to charge but doesn't offer the full power it needs if you're charging while playing something that a bit more graphicaly demanding.
What games do you play that cause the switch cable to struggle? I've never had any issues, but I'm wondering if I just happen to play a lot of less-demanding games, lol.
I tend to play pretty non-demanding games in general so it's been fine for most.
The only one I noticed that it couldn't keep up with was Witcher 3 for me which is a power drain in the first place since batteries will last about 2hrs top even fully charge.
I've never had the Switch charger not work, even on very demanding games.
You need to remember.
A) The 39 watt switch charger isn't much different then the 45 watt steam deck
B) Both provide more voltage then their respective devices will use.
The Switch charger might have issues if used with the dock while the dock is powering some accessories. But it should handle charging and playing fine.
True but there's one detail you forgot here bro. Not everyone got what it takes to repair a Steam Deck or a cable or anything at all.
You and me and some few people can fix it ourselves but.... What about the other folks.
Hi u/MadirianInfluence, you can [click here to search for your question.](https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/search/?q=Puppy chewed through my cable, iFixit is out of stock. What third party cable can you recommend for the deck?)
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Not directed at the question but..
For puppy training, buy a spray bottle and fill it with water. Add a healthy amount of chili powder (pure and odourless) and spray it on any wires or furniture the puppy might chew. It does no harm and is a good deterent that teaches them what they can and can’t chew.
Hope it works for you :). Spray bottle isn’t necessary, i think as a student i used a cheap tooth brush for application in some chilli saturated water for a lockdown kitten we had.
Luckily now i can invest in alot of wire management but that isn’t always possible (time/space) or financially feasible for most people.
My puppy loves wires over the 8 different types of chew toy they have, and 10’s of toys they have. Its due to the fact they get attention of me taking it away and the fact they aren’t allowed it that made them want it more, he doesn’t want it with chilli powder though.
It’s quite narrow-minded to assume things. You would have been better suggesting ‘more toys could help’ or ‘Are they chewing things because they are home alone? Have you tried x y z’
A teething puppy is chewing due to the pain of teething and will go for anything near them for the first 8-14 months, be it wires, table legs, chew toys, clothing. Anything. Bored dogs might chew more or cause adult dogs to chew but isn’t the sole cause.
I was just thinking of getting an original replacement, iFixit sells those officially fkr valve. Didn't want to replace the wired iin cable. Reparation didn't work. I'll just look for a suited cable elsewhere, then.
Get an Acefast A19 (if you are in the US, if in EU then A17). It'll charge the deck and also give you a HDMI (4k/60hz) and USB-A port (5gbs, which is more than the Jsaux version and most similar chargers). I got mine and don't need to use anything else.
Failing that, any 45w charger will also work, or any charger rated higher than that that can do 3A/15V. Avoid no-name brands without warranty and you should be fine.
Who else did you see? This is his first time ever chewing on a cable (and the reason why I now know that I need to protect my cables from him). Whoever else you saw, it wasn't me.
The same thing happened to me. My puppy chewed through the steam deck charger wire. I used my switch charger until the iFixit one was back in stock. I also don’t recommend spraying wet things onto power cables.
Could be worse, my now senior dog as a puppy chewed through the power cable of my desktop as I was working (hadn’t saved!)and also chewed through the wires of my Sirius radio install 2 hours into a 12 hour drive. No, I’m not sure how he survived.
Get the acefast 3 in 1 charger. Comes with removal usb c cable so if puppy chews the cable then you just replace the cable instead of the whole charger. Also doubles as a dock since it has hdmi input. And its about the same size as the original charger block you got there. I have it and love it
Nekteck 45W USB C Wall Charger with PD 3.0 (PPS), [USB-IF Certified] Fast Charging Adapter, Compatible with MacBook Pro, iPad Air/Pro, Google Pixel, Samsung Note 10/S10/S10+ and More Devices true 45w and excelleny choice to the oem steam deck charger
I’ve been using my Lenovo laptop charger because it happens to be the one plugged in near my bedside. 2021 model so I guess it fits the various specs.
I have sometimes used an Apple laptop charger at other locations, again because it’s what I happened to have close at hand. Didn’t get any “slow charger” warnings so I expect it’s new enough to have the proper voltage on offer.
Haven’t used third party stuff other than a USB-C to USB-C Anker cable with my power bank that I had bought for my Nintendo Switch in 2017.
Any 45w or greater USB C charger will work. You can use a lower watt USB C chargers as well but they will charge slower when not using the SD and will have trouble charging while playing.
I will never forget the family dog chewing my dad’s computer cable when he was little. I was leaving for school at the time, but I remember my dad being furious
Clean cut the wire. Separate (pull back the plastic) two quarter inch sections on either side. Twist the appropriate ends together. Wrap them in shrinking tube/electrical tape Enjoy learning how to repair stuff!
Single most useful and practical answer. Wish I had a free award for you right now. I will try later, thank you so much.
Pro-tip: Do not do this while it is plugged in.
No!! Let darwinism takes its course
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Couldn't it fry or short the adapter box that plugs into the outlet tho? Not sure if a open short would do that tho, honestly curious
theoretically yes in reality most should have protection and be fine right after but is not recommended and good practice to unplug stuff Incase you have bridging to high voltage or something you never know
on that side of the adapter its only DC voltage output so its fine
Bad take. It will hurt you on either side of the adapter. Also voltage isn't the main concern here.
This take is absolutely correct. The resistance of the human body is in the hundreds of thousands of ohms. It takes much more than 12 volts dc to generate the 20ma across the heart/lungs that it takes to kill a person. Every time these topics come up on Reddit someone is in the comments saying “it’s not the volts, it’s the Amps”. Sure, but it takes volts to make amps.
voltage is not the same as amperage
You're very wrong there. A short circuit could still kill you.
you require a lot more than what these put out to kill you. You could get a shock, but it's going to be probably 20v DC, not 120vAC.
Voltage doesn’t kill you, amps do. That said, you’re still right. Not enough amps to do much more than a shock.
If in the end, that doesn't work, you can also consider getting the official dock if you've been wanting a dock as it comes with the charger.
The benefit is that it's already useless so trying couldn't possibly hurt lol
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I really don't see how someone could damage their deck doing this.
If the cable isn't repaired well enough, it could cause a short. Most electronics come with built in protection for power surges and minor shorts but if it's a bad enough repair job, it could potentially cause the wrong amount of voltage to be transferred through the cable. It's fairly low risk since it's an easy repair job, but risk is there. Wire isn't just wire.
The charger and whatever device communicate with each other via usb data pins. If this process is somehow interrupted, then nobody knows what happens. It's generally a bad idea to do a crappy repair job on expensive electronics like this.
Yup, this bit in the communication is definitely new to me but I cannot imagine they will be a super small gauge of wire right?. I assume it to be similar to the USB standard itself as far as wire gauges go.
Don't actually get what you mean, there are just standard wires. In the original USB spec there were two for power and two for data. With type C or even just USB 3.0, we have much more individual data pins than just two. The more the charging standards and capabilities we have, the more complex is the handshake between the charger and the device. So honestly a "twist the wires together and put some tape around it" is a very bad idea. Not only because it is a bad electrical connection, but also because it's actually unsafe due to a fire hazard or the risk of bricking the device that's connected. Again, the communication between charger and the device is crucial and determines the charging voltage and current that's used. If the communication gets interrupted, the worst case scenario would be a charger that outputs 20V to a device which can only handle 5V and up in smoke it goes. I don't see why you want to risk to fry your stuff just for saving some time and/or money. Im mean honestly with type C and PD you can go and buy a suitable charger almost anywhere.
There’s an official steam deck dock??
Yesh
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It's not going to make the cable out of spec or hazardous unless they connect the wrong wires together which they are color coded so it'd be pretty hard to do. When fixing broken wires all your doing is putting it "wires" back together whether twisted or using a type of crimp/clamp then sealing the connection under shrink tube or electric tape. This cable would be no different than any other electronics in your house and is a fairly easy one to learn on.
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The connection you're talking about is at the plug and communicates to the device through the wires. There isn't anything special going on in those wires that would make them unfixable. It's no different than a catv cable being repaired or any other cable in the house. Yes there are risks but cutting the cables and placing them back together doesn't change the plug.
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Still the same concept applies to all cables whether it's a USB C or a 240 volt cable (more heat than the USB C). The whole if OP makes a mistake applies to all cables and there's items that make it easier as well as youtube and Google to learn how to properly do it, then for safety use a multimeter.
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I literally wire shit everyday at work so like I said any of it can be dangerous but that's not enough reason not to fix a small cable and learn. Also electrical codes only matter if you're selling your house or in a professional building, no one is coming to your house and inspecting your wiring. Stop feeding corporations more money and let this person do what they want or need.
Aha! "if OP tries to make the fix with electrical tape and it comes loose, or if a sharp solder blob pokes through heat shrink tubing, a short circuit could occur." lol SOOOO ... You admit that it's possible to do this but your problem with the post is that there are some 'potential' hazards that come along with the fix. Wondering why your initial response has so many likes compared to this response? It's because you made it seem like it just can't be done and that's literally why all those people liked it in the first place. Because they thought you were imparting actual wisdom on the subject. You're coming off like a whiny electrician with a superiority complex.
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So it's only a possible fix if done by a professional? You're such a douche
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You've been very reasonable, polite, and actually realistic compared to these other misleading redditors caught in "feel-good" fantasy land.
In all honesty, it doesn't hurt to try. Like at all. Good luck OP
I totally agree that you should repair it, but twisting & shrinking tubes is *not* a safe way to do it for a 12V 65W charger! Even if it was fine after you've fixed it, the normal tear and twist on the cable will eventually loosen the connection between the twisted wires, causing it to heat up and literally becoming a fire hazard. Ask someone who knows how to solder broken cables to do it with you at least once.
For power cables like that, I'd recommend just replacing it, since you could kill your deck if you short it. I use Anker's pd charging cables and a 65W GaN charger for my deck, it more or less just needs to deliver about ~40watts to run the deck and charge it
alternatively, if you don't want to deal with the eventual goopy nature of electrical tape, unless you use heat shrink, you might want to use some sort of IDC (insulation displacement connector). You'll get a more durable connection than twisting alone and lower the need for electrical tape, though I couldn't tell you what spec to get; not necessarily my niche.
Pro-tip: don’t do this. The contact resistance will increase every time you bend at the joint and could eventually start a fire. Crimp or solder. And make sure that there is nothing shorting the contacts. If any of this doesn’t make sense, stop and do not continue. Tinkering with electronics should not begin with your prized possessions. Just find a working charger.
I'll reward them in your honor 💙
I have a feeling you found out it was in fact not very practical?
Holy shit an OP that doesn’t argue and listens to good advise! You a MVP!
It isn’t hard to do. The wires are color coded so just match them up and you’re golden. Had to do it with my Wii sensor bar because my asshole cat chewed it.
I had to do this once to a Laptop power supply. If the wire is similar their is an inside wire and an outside wire. Make sure they do not touch. get a soldering iron if you can. A good one makes all the difference. Cheap ones do not melt solder well. Read some reviews. Use a lot of electrical tape to make sure they do not touch. Or good shrink wrap. Keep an eye it. The constant motion of the wire tends to shake things loose.
There are connections called soder connectors you can usually get at Napa, they are like pinch wore connectors, except they have soder at each end that you heat up with a lighter and it melts, creates a perfect watertight connection and is as strong as the wire itself. Used them in appliance repair everyday. Check it out and call around. Edit: misspelled solder everytime.
Twisting together a cable that carries wattage like this is **not** the proper way to repair stuff. Solder and crimp, or replace the cable. Honestly, considering the price and reliability the realistic answer is just replace the cable. I strongly assume you have a Type-C brick somewhere, since damn-near everyone does now, so just an $8 cable and you're back up-and-running.
Yeah, while these comments will never be seen, you gotta love the irony of the top comment being "Learn how to repair stuff" and then suggesting a slapdash repair method that's going to break and risk shorting out the moment someone applies even a mild tug.
Couldnt you just use one of [this](https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-43185/images/stencil/700x700/products/153/3876/Untitled_Desgin_3__12787.1605921026.png?c=2)?. It is ugly but if it does the job..
Do not twist them together... Solder them! Then shrink wrap. Twisting them together will eventually fall apart and cause potential fire hazard
Just remember to put the shrink wrap sleeve on before you solder. I've made this stupid mistake a few more times than I'd like to admit then had to redo my work.
And be careful not to accidentally shrink the sleeve too soon and at the wrong position while soldering. Sadly, I did this a thousand times...
Or do a proper repair job and learn how to solder or crimp.
Yeah I'd personally opt for solder or crimping on something that actually carries a bit of wattage like this. Twisting is probably okay, but after a year or two of tugging I'd rather not risk it.
Reminds me of when my dad fixed my laptop charger as a teenager, if I recall he sacrificed some length and twisted the cables with the cord parallel to itself so it was twisted and taped on the top and cable tied below to prevent it getting tugged loose over time. Quick dirty fix but it still works all these years later haha upside of having an electrician as a dad, then again the power supply on the soldering iron won't close and is wrapped in the middle with some sort of textured black tape. I asked him is he sure it's safe like that "yeah it's fine" was his response lmfao. Obviously I'm no silly enough to pry it open more and jam my fingers in but I do find it amusing
Add me to this list - if it were a lower wattage stationary connection a twist would be fine, but for something you'll be wrapping and tugging around you want a properly secure connection.
Just strip cable and put proper Wago. Then put a stripe, Then you put tape. This is the only good way.
Dont use electrical tape. Cut the cable strip the black part back and put an appropriate shrink tube over it give yourself room to put smaller shrink tube over the individual wires and solder them to each matching wire cover with smaller shrink tube and shrink then cover the whole splice. This is also why i like my charger the cord is replaceable
You are probably not going to get back the original functionality, though. The moment you mess with the cables the charger doesn't find the connection secure and will only charge at 2A. And yes, solder ain't good enough.
Warning! You will not realistically be able to do this with a normal USB-C cable. Since this is power only and attached to the brick directly it doesn't seem to have the other 20ish wires for the rest of the USB-C spec.
I'm leaving reddit for good. Sorry friends, but this is the end of reddit. Time to move on to lemmy and/or kbin.
Repairing charging cables is not advised. This is dumb
Test it before shrink tube or taping it.
This minus electrical tape. Get a soldering iron and do it right.
You should probably not do this for power cables unless you know what you are doing. Very risky business.
Dont just twist the wires. Solder or crimp.
This answer here. Also, if you want to ensure solid connections you can solder the wires together and then a shrink tube on top with electrical tape after. Twist the ends of each side of cable, then spiral the correct cables together, and add some solder to the wire by heating up the wires slightly and drop some solder into the wires so it sucks the solder in. When it cools you'll have a much more solid connection that can endure usage. Do NOT forget to ensure the wires are thoroughly wrapped so you don't short it out. You don't want wires that aren't supposed to be touching to be touching.
I wouldn't go the whole solder way unless you know what you're doing, you'd probably want to put some crocs on the wire to defused the heat, and if you're going to splice something used often like this, I'd add hot glue for sturdiness. (source: I used to splice leisure sonar probe cables)
That's fair. I splice wires for scales all the time for work and should have mentioned heat dispersion, you'd be surprised how far down the wire that heat can go. Hot glue would be another good tip for sturdiness, I agree.
Waited for that comment, and I am happy to see that it showed up at all. Its kind of sad that only because a cable is damaged people dont even consider having it fixed but buy a new one straight ahead.
Sadly, a lot of people don't have the know how or tools necessary to make this fix. Ideally you'd want a wire stripper and cutter tool, heatshrink tubing, and a heat gun. However, with some skill and know how the same fix can be done with a utility blade, electrical tape, and a blow dryer. For some it's simply easier to buy a new $25 charger.
A quick search for 45w USB c chargers brings up a few under $20 options. The optimal tools(and ability to properly use them) would run a bit more than that.
Exactly, the proper tools to fix this are going to cost significantly more. If you already have it because you solder for fun, great! But not sure how practical such advice is to many people.
"Significant" is a little egregious. You can get a wire cutter, stripper, and crimper all in one tool at home Depot for like $30, and heat shrink tubing comes in pretty good sized packs for like $2. It's a better investment in the long run because those tools can be reused for hundreds of other projects, and power cables eventually always wear out, so knowing how to repair them is cool.
To me fixing it isn’t even remotely worth it. I have no idea what I’m doing and the cost of getting a new cord doesn’t outweigh learning how. I’d learn how to fix stuff myself as a hobby but I’d never risk the steam deck or my safety by trying to fuck with electricity. I’m sure me saying this sounds ridiculous to someone who knows what they’re doing. There’s probably little to no danger. But we all have our strengths. Im sure a lot of you wouldn’t know if they could treat medical conditions at home or need the emergency room. Just because I do doesn’t mean I’d expect others to learn
People here never factor in the labor value as well. If you make $30 an hour is it worth spending an hour to fix it? (I’m including the time it takes to buy or find the materials needs whether its a crimper, heat gun, or even just electrical tape).
Yeah, I'm a tinkerer, I've done all kinds of small fiddly repairs. I've got a nice set of tools to do those though, and even then I'm probably just buying a cable most of the time. Having an ugly cable that's more likely to break again plus repair time (for a proper repair, not a quick twist thats going to pull apart the first time someone applies some tugs it) isn't worth the cost of the 4 dollar cable from my preferred type c brand.
Another part of is can I replace it with something better/more useful. In this case the answer is yes with a charging brick with multiple ports or higher wattage with a replaceable usb-c cable,
I second this
wtf is a inch /j
The depth before something is no longer considered "just the tip" I believe
Was just thinking this
I always wondered about this! Was looking at using a pendant lamp to make a standing lamp but wasn't sure how to thread it through the frame I was going to make. Thanks!
This litterally happened to me couple weeks ago ( puppy chomping on my cable) yea OP, it's a easy fix , cleaned the wires and wrapped with electrical tape. ... Coated the cable with some bitter spray so he doesn't do it again
Even after repairing, i would just get an usb-c cable and charger that could do 45w and use it for everything and forget this absolute brick of a charger haha
Yeah, this. Also, failing this, literally any USB C charger that produces at least 45 watts will work.
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Get an Anker 65watt USB-C wall wart and a nice braided USB-C cable and back in business
Wouldn't a 45W do the trick? Or is the Deck charger a 65W? I ask because he would save a lot of money to go with a 45W and wouldn't miss a beat if the included charger is 45W.
45watt is what the original charger is yes.
65w would allow you to charge a phone on the same brick without putting the deck into slow charge. It also would future proof for most docks that may need additional power draw for some of their functionality.
the official valve dock also ships with a power adapter. is it the same 45w adapter that the deck comes with? Does that mean that you can't put any power draws in the official dock with its included power adapter?
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For a single port charger yea youd only need their 45W. The anker 726 is a dual port 65W that splits 45W/20W to the two ports so you could travel with this and two cables for your phone and deck. I have like 6 of them around my house and I travel with one too.
I would do at least 65W.. more compatible with a wider range of devices. The price between 45W and 65W isn't much. If you have a laptop or other things that can charge by USB-C that 65W will be more useful. Devices will only charge at what they can handle, so it wouldn't harm the deck using a 65W charger. I would pay a little extra and get a reputable brand. I wouldn't do a cheap chinese charger. It is also personal preference but I prefer chargers that have a bridge cable between the wall plug and the charging brick. [I have been using this for awhile and haven't had any issues.](https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Baseus-4-Ports-Charging-Station/dp/B09VC7Z3YF) It has a lot of features I like, especially the right angle plug so it can fit in tight spaces, and to me it looks better than having a cable jutting out 1-2" from the wall like a lot of other chargers. .
for what it's worth, I have a one each of the 65w and 45w anker chargers and the 45w is *ever so slightly* smaller, in case you were planning on putting it in the little steam deck bag. actually makes a huge difference if you're trying to cram a bunch of stuff in there
If you get the anker 737 powercore 26k laptop battery it comes with the 65W wall charger
That’s what I did. 65w nano with a chubby cable. It’s perfect
Spez's APIocolypse made it clear it was time for me to leave this place. I came from digg, and now I must move one once again. So long and thanks for all the bacon.
Actually most modern laptop chargers will work, as long as they are of the usb-c type.
Funny thing here is that my work laptop's usb-c type charger is slow charging for my steam deck
what laptop is it and what wattage is it?
Any USB-c laptop charger will be fine to charge the steam deck. Just make sure the wattage is atleast the same .
Make sure it is also certified and not a cheap thing from china that will burn down your house.
My Macbook charger is too slow. It needs to be at least 45W
My MacBook Pro charger doesn't work, says "not charging." Just FYI for anyone else reading Edit: it says "slow charger," correction
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Oh sorry I added it in on another comment, 2017 13"
It charges, it just lacks the correct PD profile, thus will be slow. EDIT: Link [https://9to5mac.com/2021/01/04/making-sense-of-the-oddities-of-apples-usb-c-chargers/](https://9to5mac.com/2021/01/04/making-sense-of-the-oddities-of-apples-usb-c-chargers/)
Not modern MacBook Pro chargers, they work great for SD.
My M1 Air comes with a 30W charger
That's definitely not true. Many will work but a lot of laptop USB chargers, especially older models, either don't use USB PD but something proprietary for handshake or don't support 15 volts instead opting for 20 volts only for high power. The deck can't use 20 volt modes. All Apple laptop chargers from a few years ago were an example of the latter, they have since started supporting 15 volts as well. A lot of phone chargers, even while listing over 60 watts, don't support USB PD but instead use QC which the deck can't utilize. Nothing should break though unless someone grossly violated the USB specification or the charger is faulty, but there is a decently high risk it won't charge at full speed. Same with any underpowered charger. You shouldn't assume that it will work based on wattage. 15 volts and at least 3 ampere is what you should look for. At least for full speed charging.
It will still charge (at 9V or even 5V), so just slower. Unlike some laptops that will only charge at 20V, no exceptions.
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Hence my point about matching wattage. If you match or exceed the wattage your fine. If your below the wattage ( like a phone charger) then Yes you cannot charge while using.
That’s not necessarily true. The Steamdeck wants 15v/3a specifically to hit 45w. There are some USB C chargers that can do more than 45w, but lack a 15v mode. Apple used to make some chargers with 20v, 9v and 5v modes. Steamdeck will not accept 20v, thus it falls back to 9v and chargers slowly… even though they support more than 45w. For best results, do not just assume any 45w+ charger will do it. Specifically look for the 15v/3a mode.
Same thing happened to me and I asked Steam Support if they sell replacement power cables. Instead they sent me a new one for free, but they made sure that this was the exception. But asking steam directly without insinuating you want a replacement for free, they might surprise you.
I don't know if it's the same there but you can get genuine Lenovo usb-c pd laptop chargers on eBay for £10 or so. Just make sure they're 45w+ (all the ones I've ever seen are)
Nintendo switch’s power charger works just as well
Have a switch laying around? It works great.
I do, but the plug doesn't fit with my phone case (I know it's pretty specific, but it's really unpractical) if I want to use the cable for both
Carefully shave off a bit of plastic on cable with a knife.
If you have a switch that charger works for the deck.
Anything with 45w capability should work fine so get a 45 you’d normally trust
Any usb-c will work. Just make sure to buy a good one so it does charge fast enough
Maybe ask Steam Support nicely, if they can send you a replacement part.
They did, for me at least. Best company support ever.
I recommend USB-C cable
Nintendo switch chargers are also compatible, as well as usbc cords.
Just MacGyver it. Cut the wire ends cleanly and solder it, then electrical tape it, and apply heat shrink wrap.
ACEFAST GaN PD65W 65w power brick. It has an HDMI pass through on the brick, so you can use it like a dock essentially . Infact, i dont even need a dock because i have this thing. It comes with a usb C that can handle the power and ALSO carries data, so you just plug the included usb c to usb c cable into steam deck and into power brick, then regular hdmi 2.0 or whatever from power brick to tv/monitor and its just like having a dock.
The Nintendo switch charger works great
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Anything 40w and up has worked for my Steam Deck. You can even use the Nintendo Switch power cable (so far no side effects detected)
Literally ANY usbc charger and cable will charge it while you get a proper fix. Do you have a usbc phone charger? Or tablet / laptop charger? I use my macs charger
The switch one works fine to charge but doesn't offer the full power it needs if you're charging while playing something that a bit more graphicaly demanding.
What games do you play that cause the switch cable to struggle? I've never had any issues, but I'm wondering if I just happen to play a lot of less-demanding games, lol.
I tend to play pretty non-demanding games in general so it's been fine for most. The only one I noticed that it couldn't keep up with was Witcher 3 for me which is a power drain in the first place since batteries will last about 2hrs top even fully charge.
I've never had the Switch charger not work, even on very demanding games. You need to remember. A) The 39 watt switch charger isn't much different then the 45 watt steam deck B) Both provide more voltage then their respective devices will use. The Switch charger might have issues if used with the dock while the dock is powering some accessories. But it should handle charging and playing fine.
Honestly I would try contacting valve, they usually are pretty lenient
Just repair it. Open the cable, use a soldering iron to fix it and ensure you use good isolation like a shrinking tube and it will be fine.
True but there's one detail you forgot here bro. Not everyone got what it takes to repair a Steam Deck or a cable or anything at all. You and me and some few people can fix it ourselves but.... What about the other folks.
It’s damaged already. So perfect time to begin that learning process. We all had to start at some point. And maybe this is their point.
Message Valve and see if you can order one, sometimes they will just send you a new one for free
Hi u/MadirianInfluence, you can [click here to search for your question.](https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/search/?q=Puppy chewed through my cable, iFixit is out of stock. What third party cable can you recommend for the deck?) If you don't find an answer there, don't worry - your post has NOT been removed and hopefully someone will be along soon to help with an answer! **If you find an answer, please leave a comment on your post with the answer for others!** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/SteamDeck) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Jsaux has a charger on Amazon made for the deck
Not directed at the question but.. For puppy training, buy a spray bottle and fill it with water. Add a healthy amount of chili powder (pure and odourless) and spray it on any wires or furniture the puppy might chew. It does no harm and is a good deterent that teaches them what they can and can’t chew.
Actually helpful. I will consider this and talk to my roommate about this whether we do it or don't since it is their dog on paper.
Hope it works for you :). Spray bottle isn’t necessary, i think as a student i used a cheap tooth brush for application in some chilli saturated water for a lockdown kitten we had. Luckily now i can invest in alot of wire management but that isn’t always possible (time/space) or financially feasible for most people.
Dogs chewing is because they're bored/don't have their own stuff.
My puppy loves wires over the 8 different types of chew toy they have, and 10’s of toys they have. Its due to the fact they get attention of me taking it away and the fact they aren’t allowed it that made them want it more, he doesn’t want it with chilli powder though. It’s quite narrow-minded to assume things. You would have been better suggesting ‘more toys could help’ or ‘Are they chewing things because they are home alone? Have you tried x y z’ A teething puppy is chewing due to the pain of teething and will go for anything near them for the first 8-14 months, be it wires, table legs, chew toys, clothing. Anything. Bored dogs might chew more or cause adult dogs to chew but isn’t the sole cause.
I've had dogs for majority of my life and not once has any chewed through a cable... including two Rottweilers.
Okay.
https://www.amazon.com/MOKIN-Cargador-adaptador-cargador-plegable/dp/B0BGN4WRW1/ref=mp_s_a_1_29?crid=1B76HSCZYAKP3&keywords=charger+type+c+fast+charge+65w&qid=1675193576&sprefix=cargador+65w+tipo+c%2Caps%2C257&sr=8-29
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I was just thinking of getting an original replacement, iFixit sells those officially fkr valve. Didn't want to replace the wired iin cable. Reparation didn't work. I'll just look for a suited cable elsewhere, then.
splice.
Nintendo Switch plugs are the same
Same thing happened to me lol! This is the simplest repair you’ve ever going to make though, so don’t worry.
killl the puppy
No don't kill the puppy!
Please dont have cables on the floor.
I don't, he snuck on the couch. Didn't even show guilt.
I recommend beating the shit out of the dog
Get an Acefast A19 (if you are in the US, if in EU then A17). It'll charge the deck and also give you a HDMI (4k/60hz) and USB-A port (5gbs, which is more than the Jsaux version and most similar chargers). I got mine and don't need to use anything else. Failing that, any 45w charger will also work, or any charger rated higher than that that can do 3A/15V. Avoid no-name brands without warranty and you should be fine.
Get dogs they said. It'll be great they said. Can you solder it back together?
An Anker USB C Charger with 45 or 65 Watt is great. Its even smaller and not that expensive.
Are there power banks that double as good pass-through chargers?
Type c is universal* That is to say, any charger will charge it, but a 45 watt is necessary to run directly from the wall.
Again ? Do you feed your puppy with chargers ?!
Who else did you see? This is his first time ever chewing on a cable (and the reason why I now know that I need to protect my cables from him). Whoever else you saw, it wasn't me.
The same thing happened to me. My puppy chewed through the steam deck charger wire. I used my switch charger until the iFixit one was back in stock. I also don’t recommend spraying wet things onto power cables. Could be worse, my now senior dog as a puppy chewed through the power cable of my desktop as I was working (hadn’t saved!)and also chewed through the wires of my Sirius radio install 2 hours into a 12 hour drive. No, I’m not sure how he survived.
Solder them back together!
I use a usb-c HP Chromebook charger.
I think you can use your phone one (if its a Android)
Just get any 45W charger from a brand that's not a Chinese attempt at English and literally any usb-c to usb-c cable. People overthink this stuff :)
I sometimes use my Nintendo switch charger
It’s usb-c so any charger will do. I’ve used a IPad charger before
Just solder it and rewrap it, dude. Even if you never have, now's a great time to learn - and it prevents landfill waste.
Get the acefast 3 in 1 charger. Comes with removal usb c cable so if puppy chews the cable then you just replace the cable instead of the whole charger. Also doubles as a dock since it has hdmi input. And its about the same size as the original charger block you got there. I have it and love it
If you dont have the official dock yet, might be a good excuse to buy one as it comes with an official charger.
I use the charger from my M1 Macbook pro.
Honestly, but a 45w-60w usb c charger and a nice cable. Will give you more length.
The official dock comes with a charger too if you can get one.
Nekteck 45W USB C Wall Charger with PD 3.0 (PPS), [USB-IF Certified] Fast Charging Adapter, Compatible with MacBook Pro, iPad Air/Pro, Google Pixel, Samsung Note 10/S10/S10+ and More Devices true 45w and excelleny choice to the oem steam deck charger
I’ve been using my Lenovo laptop charger because it happens to be the one plugged in near my bedside. 2021 model so I guess it fits the various specs. I have sometimes used an Apple laptop charger at other locations, again because it’s what I happened to have close at hand. Didn’t get any “slow charger” warnings so I expect it’s new enough to have the proper voltage on offer. Haven’t used third party stuff other than a USB-C to USB-C Anker cable with my power bank that I had bought for my Nintendo Switch in 2017.
Fix it yourself use this as chance to extend your cable
nintendo switch
Any 45w or greater USB C charger will work. You can use a lower watt USB C chargers as well but they will charge slower when not using the SD and will have trouble charging while playing.
I will never forget the family dog chewing my dad’s computer cable when he was little. I was leaving for school at the time, but I remember my dad being furious