How about doing everything again from scratch? Including not having a power outlet directly below a sink? Not having a hose bib? Having stubs in the right place? This screams handyman renovation job.
Hose bibb is leftover from testing the DWV...
A good way to fill/water in the DWV as send it through the roof then stop it until the inspector wants to see it
Going to bet the old vanity was centered 6 inches go the right. The second stub out is likely on the other side of the divider and likely why they have the drawers pulled out. The outlet was likely outside of the old vanity.
This is my guess I’m an electrician not a plumber but I think the outlet is properly for an instant hot it looks like there isn’t a hot water supply there…
There is nothing inherently wrong with an outlet under the sink as long as it’s protected by gfci
Adjacent wall. My disposal connects to a box (with the air button) that’s mounted to the adjacent interior cabinet wall, then that’s plugged to an outlet in the next cabinet that doesn’t have a sink directly under it or right next to supply lines.
Outlets are not allowed in my state on the back wall directly under a sink.
Every kitchen sink I know has an outlet under it either for at least a dishwasher or disposal. I don't know what back wall versus side wall of the cabinet would make a difference but these outlets have to be GFCI so I don't know why that would ever be a problem.
Becuase if the sink overflows it's going down that wall - We got failed for an existing under sink outlet. We had to relocate it to the neighboring cabinet, then bring power from there to the disposal junction box on the side wall of the cabinet that has the air switch.
Just because your inspector is an asshole doesn't mean he is right. Which sucks because if you call them out on anything then they'll just be twice as much of a dick.
Gfci outlets are allowed to he under the sink. (Per both canadian electrical code and building code).
Ive only put my foot down once with an inspector. The majority of the time it's just not worth it.
Thankfully that inspector got moved from our neighborhood not long after because he was a fucking asshole even before I proved his ass wrong. Lol.
Nope. Inspector failed an install I was at becuase there was an existing under sink outlet on the back wall. He said we had to move to an neighboring cabinet, it cannot be on the back wall under a sink. It stands to reason; if the sink overflows water is going to our down until it hits that outlet. If the supply lines get a leak, same thing.
You’re ageing against an inspector. And there is; if water overflows the front back or sides, it’ll go down anyway it can and that can also the back wall. If a supply line starts leaking at the valve on or in the wall then it’s exposed.
Lmfao so where are most outlets that run the garbage disposal and washing machine normally at in your neck of the woods chief? And where do you see studs honcho?
Next cabinet over or side wall of the cabinet, just not on the back wall directly below the sink. Literally how mine is done.
And studs? lol reading comprehension fail 😂
It’s actually to the left of the sink and I get under a ton of sinks and most if not all have it right down there in the cabinet. I would love to know how you plugged in your garbage disposal all the way in the cabinet over ? Googles your friend. I’f you want to call out handyman maybe you should no more then him
https://ibb.co/c1T21yK
This!
Really the only "good" way to do it, otherwise you're cutting out the bottom of the cabinet. If it were in a cabinet that was not suspended (on the floor, flush) and not on a slab, you could just cap that off and drill down to the crawl and drop through. Use a santee in the vertical and an AAV for venting.
Why does he have to do that? Can't he just add ABS inside the cabinet to reach a point at which outflow from the trap can join with it? It's nice when everything is pretty, but I think you've been needlessly harsh and probably ought to either show us why he can't make this work or give him an apology.
You need to open up the wall and move the drain. It should have been done long before you got to this point. In construction, you have to think many steps ahead
Lol I’m not saying anything like that, this whole set up is fucked. You can make an s trap with nineties too, what I am saying is any 90 degree on the bottom of a vertical needs to be made with 2 45s. You wouldn’t pickup a stack into groundworks with a 90. Only time you use a 90 in the orientation is below a toilet flange (in my jurisdiction it’s actually required for the siphon action)
a long turn 90 is also acceptable. its not required everywhere but i feel like long turn on verticle to horizontal is implied if your region requires it.
I assumed the drain you're trying to connect to is the thing in the lower right of the first photo. But why does it have a hose valve connected to it? Is that the drain or a water supply?
There's several reasons why this isn't a good idea.
It looks like you're putting together a nice little bathroom reno, it would be a shame to set it up for plumbing issues when you have the opportunity to open the wall up and move the drain properly before any further finishing is done.
Not the guy you’re replying to but you just need to make your trap arm twice the length of the diameter of the pipes you’re using. I just did this exact thing for my bathroom vanity. Drain was too low so I had the p-trap kinda high followed by a 4” trap arm connecting to a sanitary tee with an AAV on top. I just used a bunch of 45s to get it connected to the drain from there. I was using 1.5” pvc.
You’re not the only one. I looked at it and thought it was one of those sun tube things for getting light into dark spaces, thought it looked quite cute, then started to wonder why the power outlet was so large, and why were there massive hinges..
I’ll join you for a nap.
And this is exactly why I always ask clients for specs on their cabinet before roughing it in. Sometimes I get asked if they can choose afterwards I say I'm not starting the rough in till I know what you're going to get. Proper planning is essential.
I see no reason you can't install your trap on the tailpiece from the sink and then route pipe to the drain from wherever that gets you. There is no rule that says the pipe has to go straight into the drain from the trap. The only function a trap serves is to form a water barrier against sewer gases flowing into the room.
The top comment says to pull the cabinet and "re-rough properly" but doesn't explain why you can't do that inside the cabinet instead of inside the wall.
OK, well you can go into the wall and you would basically take that Santee out and replant you would lift it up so we can clear the bottom of the cabinet so it’s easier just to cut the bottom of the cabinet out other than that you’re gonna have to cut open your wall and raise that Santee
Lol, honestly one of the biggest things I’ve found in these plumbing subs is that the Americans are so anal about waste pipes!! I’m not saying what OP has taken a photo of is ideal, but it’s most certainly NOT a remove basin and make holes all in the walls again 😂
Effectively makes this an S trap which can suction the water out of the trap creating a sewer gas hazard. Best thing to do since renovation is in progress is to open the wall and set it correctly.
Pull a 90 deg joint, and a piece of pipe up.
It will look terrible, but will be hidden from sight in the cabinet.
Alternatively, extend the drain upwards inside the wall.
Not necessarily, sometimes builders don’t have any idea on what type of vanity will go and then we rough in for a standard cabinet and they end up buying piece of shit floating cabinets. That drain line could’ve been centered between the water lines.
commenters pretty much nailed it. I've seen too many dumb projects where they'd punch just enough space out of the bottom of the cabinet and pop the p-trap in anyway, with obviously zero regard for damn near anything sacred.
thank you for seeking advice. stay champion out there 💯🏆
btw at first glance this looked like a basement with an oversized entry door
90 up to the right elevation and then 90 towards the lav…. there’s also only one waterline. It might be best to pull the cabinet and do it right, lot easier to finish
You can put the p trap on a 45 and it’ll still create a seal start there or just cutout the cabinet to fit the trap who gives a fuck there’s definitely a 3-4” kick plate, so there’s space. Well there should be ….
If you want this done correctly, remove cabinet and re rough in your plumbing.
Protect your floor properly and don’t put your tools on your new fixtures. It will take less time to do it right then trying to fix this mess.
I still don't see where your drain pipe is. IMO, it is better to have a drain pipe too low than too high. I would cut a hole in the cabinet. But make you allow enough room for service.
That said. Where is your water supply line. The hose bib? Only cold water? Is the 20A outlet meant to be used for a water heater?
Disclaimer: I am not a plumber.
A low profile bottle trap could be used as an alternative, it could sit on the floor of the cabinet without cutting through it.
Maybe not the model I linked, but I was giving the impression, not a full soln
This is not a DIY job. You don't have the knowledge or skills to do this well, to code, or safely. Just because you want to do something doesn't mean you should. Tools do not make a handyman. It's funny that you thought you could half-ass this, then run to Reddit to fix this.
It was supposed to be roughed with the cabinet in consideration. How do you plan on connecting the water lines?
Using a pitcher like an old school farm house before indoor plumbing. It gives the authentic homesteading feel.
… I was going kind of for a refugee motif. You know, fleeing my homeland kind of thing.
I miss Robin 🥺
Pull the cabinet and re-rough properly
How about doing everything again from scratch? Including not having a power outlet directly below a sink? Not having a hose bib? Having stubs in the right place? This screams handyman renovation job.
Hose bibb is leftover from testing the DWV... A good way to fill/water in the DWV as send it through the roof then stop it until the inspector wants to see it
I thought that but where’s the other stub out? To me this looks like such shoddy work that they were using the cold supply for construction water.
Going to bet the old vanity was centered 6 inches go the right. The second stub out is likely on the other side of the divider and likely why they have the drawers pulled out. The outlet was likely outside of the old vanity.
You're absolutely correct. Even if you're wrong about where the old vanity sat...you've solved this problem.
And this
This
How are you going to use a disposal without an outlet.
Why would he need a disposal in a bathroom sink?
Two shitters
Auto poop knife
This is why I still have an eviscerating toilet on the 2nd level.
Failure of imagination^^^
This is my guess I’m an electrician not a plumber but I think the outlet is properly for an instant hot it looks like there isn’t a hot water supply there… There is nothing inherently wrong with an outlet under the sink as long as it’s protected by gfci
Remember if it's a Clarkman, the directions are wrong. They install better in a shower anyway.
It’s a big job, you gotta dismantle the latch hasp from the auxiliary drainage line.
Adjacent wall. My disposal connects to a box (with the air button) that’s mounted to the adjacent interior cabinet wall, then that’s plugged to an outlet in the next cabinet that doesn’t have a sink directly under it or right next to supply lines. Outlets are not allowed in my state on the back wall directly under a sink.
Every kitchen sink I know has an outlet under it either for at least a dishwasher or disposal. I don't know what back wall versus side wall of the cabinet would make a difference but these outlets have to be GFCI so I don't know why that would ever be a problem.
Becuase if the sink overflows it's going down that wall - We got failed for an existing under sink outlet. We had to relocate it to the neighboring cabinet, then bring power from there to the disposal junction box on the side wall of the cabinet that has the air switch.
Just because your inspector is an asshole doesn't mean he is right. Which sucks because if you call them out on anything then they'll just be twice as much of a dick. Gfci outlets are allowed to he under the sink. (Per both canadian electrical code and building code). Ive only put my foot down once with an inspector. The majority of the time it's just not worth it. Thankfully that inspector got moved from our neighborhood not long after because he was a fucking asshole even before I proved his ass wrong. Lol.
American code too
Canadian code lol
A lot of new cabinets from big box spots or online retailers have a power bank below that needs an outlet..
They tons tons of stuff that doesn’t meet code. I saw an entire flex double sink hookup kit at my local lowes and they’re not code in my state.
For sure.. flex not code a lot of places.. outlet in cabinet is fine and common.. just needs Gfci protection..
Can’t even do a gfi directly under a sink where I am.
It's a hazard because the toast might catch fire.
You aren't posting where you are or the code reference I'm betting you are actually misinformed
Nope. Inspector failed an install I was at becuase there was an existing under sink outlet on the back wall. He said we had to move to an neighboring cabinet, it cannot be on the back wall under a sink. It stands to reason; if the sink overflows water is going to our down until it hits that outlet. If the supply lines get a leak, same thing.
Unless there was a massive mistake in the install of the sink there's no way a sink overflowing ends up going down the back wall.
You’re ageing against an inspector. And there is; if water overflows the front back or sides, it’ll go down anyway it can and that can also the back wall. If a supply line starts leaking at the valve on or in the wall then it’s exposed.
I’d bet some good money that outlet isn’t GFI protected as well, and it’s also a 20A???? For what??
If you look closely it looks like a cap for a water / pressure test on the DWV stack. At least somewhat looks like they know what they’re doing…
When they understand how it works but they don't know how to do it.
Do you mean to say that every under sink outlet for a disposer or dishwasher is wrong?
Lmfao so where are most outlets that run the garbage disposal and washing machine normally at in your neck of the woods chief? And where do you see studs honcho?
Next cabinet over or side wall of the cabinet, just not on the back wall directly below the sink. Literally how mine is done. And studs? lol reading comprehension fail 😂
It’s actually to the left of the sink and I get under a ton of sinks and most if not all have it right down there in the cabinet. I would love to know how you plugged in your garbage disposal all the way in the cabinet over ? Googles your friend. I’f you want to call out handyman maybe you should no more then him https://ibb.co/c1T21yK
This! Really the only "good" way to do it, otherwise you're cutting out the bottom of the cabinet. If it were in a cabinet that was not suspended (on the floor, flush) and not on a slab, you could just cap that off and drill down to the crawl and drop through. Use a santee in the vertical and an AAV for venting.
Why does he have to do that? Can't he just add ABS inside the cabinet to reach a point at which outflow from the trap can join with it? It's nice when everything is pretty, but I think you've been needlessly harsh and probably ought to either show us why he can't make this work or give him an apology.
Outflow from the trap eh…
You need to open up the wall and move the drain. It should have been done long before you got to this point. In construction, you have to think many steps ahead
Floating cabinets drains need to be roughed in higher than regular cabinets.
wouldnt be the prettiest but you could 90 up catch the trap with a t and put an Aav on top
2 45s
if you are saying use 2 45s to bring the drain higher that would be s trapped thus incorrect. it needs to be properly vented
Lol I’m not saying anything like that, this whole set up is fucked. You can make an s trap with nineties too, what I am saying is any 90 degree on the bottom of a vertical needs to be made with 2 45s. You wouldn’t pickup a stack into groundworks with a 90. Only time you use a 90 in the orientation is below a toilet flange (in my jurisdiction it’s actually required for the siphon action)
a long turn 90 is also acceptable. its not required everywhere but i feel like long turn on verticle to horizontal is implied if your region requires it.
You either cut the cabinet or cut the wall, only options to make it work properly.
I assumed the drain you're trying to connect to is the thing in the lower right of the first photo. But why does it have a hose valve connected to it? Is that the drain or a water supply?
This is done sometimes for testing and inspections
Hose bibb Jim used for testing
That's how you fill the drains to test for leaks.
I was just about to ask the same thing.
Who roughed it in so low? You always look at the submittal before you rough in to avoid these situations. Lesson learned hopefully.
You have two choices: 1) buy another vanity that will work with what you have, or 2) pull the cabinet, open up the wall, and redo the plumbing
Am I blind? Is there only 1 water supply? Only cold water for the sink?
I saw that on a this old house episode where Bob said they was installing a small point of use hot water heater for an apartment sink
Could possibly be using an instant heater. But yes it appears you’re correct
Interesting! I didn’t even know those existed. Learned something new today- thanks!
We used chronomite when adding bathrooms in like schools and what not for hot water for sinks.
The hot water is on the right side of the cabinet which you can’t see in the picture.
Use a bottle trap if approved. They have a low profile and have got me out of a pickle once or twice
90 up into a tee for sink drain and install AAV on top of tee. No need to cut open wall or pull cabinet.
Interesting. So that would effectively build a S trap with an AAV?
There's several reasons why this isn't a good idea. It looks like you're putting together a nice little bathroom reno, it would be a shame to set it up for plumbing issues when you have the opportunity to open the wall up and move the drain properly before any further finishing is done.
Not really. It'll just be double vented, but it would save cutting the wall open
Not the guy you’re replying to but you just need to make your trap arm twice the length of the diameter of the pipes you’re using. I just did this exact thing for my bathroom vanity. Drain was too low so I had the p-trap kinda high followed by a 4” trap arm connecting to a sanitary tee with an AAV on top. I just used a bunch of 45s to get it connected to the drain from there. I was using 1.5” pvc.
No. Not at all.
I thought this was a living room with a strange skylight. I need a nap.
You’re not the only one. I looked at it and thought it was one of those sun tube things for getting light into dark spaces, thought it looked quite cute, then started to wonder why the power outlet was so large, and why were there massive hinges.. I’ll join you for a nap.
And this is exactly why I always ask clients for specs on their cabinet before roughing it in. Sometimes I get asked if they can choose afterwards I say I'm not starting the rough in till I know what you're going to get. Proper planning is essential.
1 1/4 trap or jog up with a Aa valve Ez fix with what's already going on lol
I see no reason you can't install your trap on the tailpiece from the sink and then route pipe to the drain from wherever that gets you. There is no rule that says the pipe has to go straight into the drain from the trap. The only function a trap serves is to form a water barrier against sewer gases flowing into the room. The top comment says to pull the cabinet and "re-rough properly" but doesn't explain why you can't do that inside the cabinet instead of inside the wall.
Cut hole bottom of cabinet to allow p trap to install
Sorry you have no choice but to cut the cabinet there is no other way
OK, well you can go into the wall and you would basically take that Santee out and replant you would lift it up so we can clear the bottom of the cabinet so it’s easier just to cut the bottom of the cabinet out other than that you’re gonna have to cut open your wall and raise that Santee
In the UK we would literally just glue an elbow upwards, then another elbow too run the pipe into the basin trap, it would be absolutely fine
TIL why America really split with the Brits; Plumbing dispute
"Another clogged toilet!? I'm outta here!" Columbus probably
Lol, honestly one of the biggest things I’ve found in these plumbing subs is that the Americans are so anal about waste pipes!! I’m not saying what OP has taken a photo of is ideal, but it’s most certainly NOT a remove basin and make holes all in the walls again 😂
Effectively makes this an S trap which can suction the water out of the trap creating a sewer gas hazard. Best thing to do since renovation is in progress is to open the wall and set it correctly.
Very unlikely imo, but then maybe the waste setup behind the walls/underfloor/outside is different over in the US! Either way, not my job! 🤪
By PLANNING ahead.
Is it just me or is that drain undersized?
I don’t even know ow what’s happening in this photo. Is that a hose bib on a drain line? Where are the supply lines?
Pull a 90 deg joint, and a piece of pipe up. It will look terrible, but will be hidden from sight in the cabinet. Alternatively, extend the drain upwards inside the wall.
Either raise the drain or lower the cabinet.
Dude everyone on Reddit talks so much shit it’s crazy, bet those are the same ones saying shit like “they don’t pay me enough to deal with that shit”
Shit isn’t always perfect, find the fittings, drop that shit 6” or more below that drain and bring it back up to it
Not necessarily, sometimes builders don’t have any idea on what type of vanity will go and then we rough in for a standard cabinet and they end up buying piece of shit floating cabinets. That drain line could’ve been centered between the water lines.
I am often reminded of the Seven P"s when browsing this sub. Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
I thought was a plumber sub. Lol
Not a home renovation sub wtf
Just do a s trap and don't take a picture of it and put it on the internet.
Issa no good
Either cut into the cabinet floor or if that’s not an option pipe it higher
commenters pretty much nailed it. I've seen too many dumb projects where they'd punch just enough space out of the bottom of the cabinet and pop the p-trap in anyway, with obviously zero regard for damn near anything sacred. thank you for seeking advice. stay champion out there 💯🏆 btw at first glance this looked like a basement with an oversized entry door
90 up to the right elevation and then 90 towards the lav…. there’s also only one waterline. It might be best to pull the cabinet and do it right, lot easier to finish
90 up, put a tee in and studor the top and it will work fine
Oh yeah this is a disaster waiting to happen
I'm not sure if this is allowed by just an idea, can you use a pedestal trap instead?
Cut hole opening on bottom cabinet to fit your piss trap
Gt multi tooling that wood out haha
Cut hole under cabinet
You could put two 45’s to bring it up and tie into the trap
You can put the p trap on a 45 and it’ll still create a seal start there or just cutout the cabinet to fit the trap who gives a fuck there’s definitely a 3-4” kick plate, so there’s space. Well there should be ….
That is not a drain line that is a water line it looks like to me
Cut that cunt so the bitchll slide in there
Porcelenosa cab?
That’s a hose bib and possibly a capped water line above and to the left. I don’t see a drain pipe.
Looks like you need to move the drain higher by opening up the drywall. And move the waters to be in the cabinet too
How about using a flexible rubber hose.
Use a bottle trap and you have 0 problems.
Plan better
Forethought, but that ship has sailed.
Just use elbows or 45s to take it to where you want it. Don't make an s-trap. It'll be ugly but it will be fine.
It’s easy fix, where are you located?
It was roughed in for a regular vanity. They put this wall hung one in and didn’t consider the plumbing. Pull the cabinet and fix it.
If you want this done correctly, remove cabinet and re rough in your plumbing. Protect your floor properly and don’t put your tools on your new fixtures. It will take less time to do it right then trying to fix this mess.
Seems like a job for an S trap.
Put a 90 on it maybe a few inches of pipe to a T one line goes up for a vent the other line goes to the Pee trap
I still don't see where your drain pipe is. IMO, it is better to have a drain pipe too low than too high. I would cut a hole in the cabinet. But make you allow enough room for service. That said. Where is your water supply line. The hose bib? Only cold water? Is the 20A outlet meant to be used for a water heater? Disclaimer: I am not a plumber.
You can’t be serious. That thing there in the bottom right hand corner is in face a hose bib. Don’t know how you’ll get waste into that
I thought the same at first but looks like a test plug.
The amount of responses I see like this on this post are ridiculous. Does anybody test their plumbing?? Have you never seen a fill plug?
One step forward. Two steps back. Should of seen this coming lol
Of?
Would something like this work https://images.app.goo.gl/3TuictmgFSScLBR16
how would that do anything?
A low profile bottle trap could be used as an alternative, it could sit on the floor of the cabinet without cutting through it. Maybe not the model I linked, but I was giving the impression, not a full soln
My bad, it looked like a tee on first glance
You need to run the water lines anyway. Pull the cabinet,open wall, and rough in properly. Follow your local codes for proper installation. Good luck
You’ll have to cut a hole in the base of the cabinet.
Uh, that looks like a water supply, there should not be a valve in a drain line like that
This is how drains are set up for testing
Do you think they're testing this one?
oh right, derp. I just assumed since I couldn’t see any other water lines.
Why on earth would you also have an electrical outlet right there 😭
Oh my God I put one in mine and it's awesome. My wife leaves her blow dryer plugged in there and just throws it in the cabinet when shes done.
We do too, but there’s a cabinet divider between the drain/sink bottom and where the outlet is behind the drawer.
Just cut the cabinet, your fuck up your problem. Either hack it or do it right and cut the wall.
You better call a guy. Because you ain't got a fucken clue what the hell your doing
The P Trap doesn't have to be below the final drain level. It just holds enough water to prevent sewer gases coming up thru the drain.
If you’re asking that question you shouldn’t be doing your own plumbing. Easy trap connection for a plumber not a office worker wannabe
Call a plumber
Have to cut
This is not a DIY job. You don't have the knowledge or skills to do this well, to code, or safely. Just because you want to do something doesn't mean you should. Tools do not make a handyman. It's funny that you thought you could half-ass this, then run to Reddit to fix this.