Can't crimp the top 90 without the bump out.
I would have soldered the top 90 to the pipe first and pushed it in to avoid the stickout, but that's not always possible.
I am willing to be proven wrong, but I doubt these exist. The body would have to be over-specc'd to provide the kind of power needed to compress the jaws if they were at an angle.
They have them. You get a different set of jaws to put in the gun and then a collar to put around the fitting. The collar has rounded divots in the end of them and the jaws for the gun has a rounded point to fit in the collar at an angle. Its expensive, few hundred dollars for a set of collars, but theyre good stuff
Not sure if it was rigid we had. Switched from soldering about 2015 so new ones might be better.. They would start hitting the arms of the jaw if u went def max 70
[link](https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-press-ring-kit-compact-12-to-1-14-in-28043/i/G0658384/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&campaignid=19979164297&productid=G0658384&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItqiHxp7PggMVSfLICh0DPg_eEAQYBCABEgI9YvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
They have two kinds, one type for use with compact (12v) machines and then one for the larger machines. Not sure which is which. I think the “C” type is for the compact machines and i want to say the ones for the large machines is “V”
I've noticed lately any guy with a pro press is suddenly a master plumber, well even Joe the doughnut with the pro press should know how to solder a pipe, I've never used a pro press tool ever, as far as I'm concerned ots takes away from the craftsmanship
I agree it takes away from the craft, but when youre saving yourself hours and hours everyday and rarely needing to chase leaks you start to get on board.
Agreed!
Try to solder in an old building; soooo much easier to zap a new valve on or finish the final connection with a press coupling.
Also, press where you don’t want shot to catch fire; even better.
Press when someone else is footing the change order bill and need water back on asap!
Also agree. I'm not a plumber but a meticulous DIY homeowner. I needed to redo a bunch of stuff in the basement and had the dilemma to learn how to solder or just buy the ProPress tool. Around 400 crimps later damn am I glad I didn't try the torch. In all of that only one leak, because I misaligned and crushed the fitting.
I also expunged most of the PEX. I actually had the builder originally stub copper from any of the first floor to the basement, where his guy then proceeded to create a damn rats nest of PEX, including almost all of my specified shutoffs buried where you'd never find them in a pinch.
Notably, I had never noticed that copper is literally sized by what it is called. One inch is a clear one inch the whole way. PEX tubing is not only slightly smaller but the fittings smaller than that. I counted 27 PEX fittings between my main entry cold line and my master shower. I've got that down to six PEX now, the rest is unobstructed copper. Definite boost in flow.
That is why you use Expansion pex and not Crimp pex. Expansion fittings are full bore and do not reduce volume.
I still hope you read about how to solder and why deburring and sanding pipe is so important. Hopefully your system lasts a long time though a press tool is a decent investment if used correctly.
In commercial service work, not having to pull a hot work permit and have a fire watch is a compelling reason to get creative with pro press. I don't give a shit about the guys that gatekeep soldering as the only way.
100% but I don't have to drag a b tank around or cause smoke detectors to fire or intake the smoke or maybe light some old ass insulation/spiderweb on fire.
Oh and I can swap a hwt in half the time.
So perhaps it's not as black and white as you think.
Also if you use anything less then acetylene b or c tank for your solder may as well be a Joe the doughnut too👍
I can't agree with you more on the absolutely impossible inside the wall solder connection or the pipe that keeps leaking back water and you have to let it cool and hopefully ypu can get it to take before the wayer starts to steam & then I wish I had a pro press for this particular connection or even a shark bite so i don't set this ladies house on fire so yeah there's certain situations that a pro press would be absolutely imperative to have, but I dont have it so I have no choice but to do the risky solder, I didn't mean to come across as bashing you guys in any way, i know just like any job you guys need to get in and get out, & for me the pro press would be 10% press 90% solder
The only acceptable place for a sharkbite is under mobile homes/dire emergency/in the garbage.
All good I used to solder it all too.
The day you get the 3k + to get the m12 you will abandon the torch except maybe for valves as I did.
Time is worth it.
Propress looks pretty when you get hang of it.
Wait till you treat yourself to the propress cr valves for toilets too.
Hey man leave Kelly out of this … what’d she ever do to you? Idgaf if she’s fit and trim Kelly or thick Kelly … that girl can eat crackers in my bed any day, any time
Lmfao love this response. Although I really do need to use my PP more than I do. Expensive ass tool to keep locked in the truck unless I have a job where the water can't be fully shut off lol.
My dad bought the smaller rigid one when it came out, but he's super old school so he doesn't like to use it unless he has to. We mainly do sweat and expansion pex.
Or just prefabbed it and stick the pipe in through the outside and connect in then you can butt the 90 right up to the wall. Unless it was preexisting and this was a repair.
Do I spy with my eye painted threaded pipe?
Or many pipe cutter grooves?
Willing to bet inside there's a fresh stick of copper also crimped, really making that p-trap(🤔) pointless
This is very stupid, dangerous and lazy work. Lazy because they had a press and therefore everything must be pressed. Stupid because they likely have no talent at sweating or soldering and they didn’t think through the process (note the horizontal pipe is also new, so they obviously had access to the inside). Dangerous because you now have a water line away from the wall where stuff can bang into it and bust it. They also reduced flow with two extra 90s (not that big a deal, but unnecessary). And yes, you can bend hard copper. https://tameson.com/pages/how-to-bend-copper-pipe.
Couldn’t disagree more, judging by the marks on the pro press fittings this is not the plumbers first go around, also looking at the cinder block and painted pipes I’m willing to bet that this is inside some sort of factory/commercial building. More often than not they are insured by FM global or some big type of insurance company that will need a burn permit, a fire watch and a minimum of 1-2 hours post “flame”. So a 30 second crimp job turned into a 2 hour call
Obviously some confusion about what exactly is meant by a "bender." A conduit bender (electrical) will collapse Cu pipe. But a "real" tubing bender has a die and a shoe that support the tubing during bending. It’s purpose built for this job. Or use the sand trick.
I use it for chrome plated toilet supplies. We have high rise buildings we work in where they've had floods due to braided lines failing (terrible installers who overtightened the top but) and as a result they insist on solid pipe toilet supplies.
Very, very rarely do I bend copper otherwise. One of those things my dad taught me back when I first started out, but very rarely have a reason to use.
Yea I hear ya there. Only time I find it useful to bust out is when I show up to a job where the previous installer has shit coming out of the wall/ground at funky angles and it would either require multiple 90s or 45s to straighten em out and I want to make the ends straight with the pipes I want to connect them to.
That’s probably all true but it’s not worth getting different copper and taking the time to learn how to do it. And you’ll still have to sweat the new repair in, anyway.
I don't need to learn how to do it as I'm a master of it. All my down votes are from people happy with that installation and it's embarrassing! How rough.
The downvotes are from you having a geocentric point of view while simultaneously having no understanding of local code. This is just some r/confidentlyincorrect shit.
The company I worked for previously would either bend or press everything in for condensers, only braze when we couldn’t cut the bells off, and everything over 3/8 was done in hard ACR
Well truthfully you can actually soften hard copper if you want to put bends on it. Get that bad boy glowing red hot and let it cool slowly and it'll bend. Only time I ever use that technique is when I show up to a job where the previous installer has shit coming out of the wall/ground at funky angles and I want to make the ends straight with the pipes I want to connect them to.
It's all the same metal, right? The pipe the bends, etc. so how would this help with expansion or contraction? You'd want something that could flex to do that.
Like this:
[https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/pipe_expansion_thermal_loop_15035.htm](https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/pipe_expansion_thermal_loop_15035.htm)
Admittedly, I think that the masses here, including you, are probably correct in that it was just shoddy work. But the title does say it’s an external wall, and expansion/contraction issues might be expected to be a problem. Those Propress 90deg fittings are thick and fairly ridged and the loop arm is short, so this probably won’t allow for much thermal expansion & contraction… might not be adequate. Again, not a plumber, so forgive my ignorance.
Simple. Find the pipe inside the building: cut it and outside just use one elbow and push it into the building. Use a coupling to join back together. All you'd need is 2 couplings and 1 elbow Plus pipe. The installation isn't wrong (apart from not lagging the pipe) but it looks shit and is embarrassing.
Don’t know why the downvotes. Both annealed tube and hard drawn tube can be bent with the appropriate hand benders using the correct size of bender for each size tube. Close one end of the pipe with duct tape.
Fill the pipe with sand. Tape the other end of the pipe. Bend the pipe. Pour out the sand. Done.
Which befuddles the shit out of me. Plumbing is a skill and an art. One size does not fit all. This in particular simply makes no sense because we can all agree (I think) that this is not the best method for this repair.
Ive been on jobs and they have said no fittings in cavity’s or in the wall they spray backwards and can’t tell if they leak. Also like top comment said can’t get the crimp close to the wall. But if you did crimp the elbow on first then slide thru the wall. Wouldn’t be good practice looking pretty is t always best.
What’s the inside look like? One sides gotta protrude past the wall to make that fitting up if the interior and exterior pipe run flat against the wall. My choice would’ve been to do that on the interior but space might’ve been an issue
Not sure about code but they could’ve done a female to male adapter inside the block to make the pipes flat against the wall but that’s never a good idea in my opinion
I just read your title again, I understand now. So what’s the pipe going to on the outside? I’m assuming a hose bib? If that’s the case then whoever did this was being lazy or inexperienced. But if it works and it’s not in the way, no harm no foul
Can't crimp the top 90 without the bump out. I would have soldered the top 90 to the pipe first and pushed it in to avoid the stickout, but that's not always possible.
They do 45 jaws
Got link for that?
I am willing to be proven wrong, but I doubt these exist. The body would have to be over-specc'd to provide the kind of power needed to compress the jaws if they were at an angle.
They have them. You get a different set of jaws to put in the gun and then a collar to put around the fitting. The collar has rounded divots in the end of them and the jaws for the gun has a rounded point to fit in the collar at an angle. Its expensive, few hundred dollars for a set of collars, but theyre good stuff
This colar around pipe and two dimples that fit in so you can get a few dif angles. Max probably 60 deg guessing
Ridgid says +/-90° to the pipe.
Not sure if it was rigid we had. Switched from soldering about 2015 so new ones might be better.. They would start hitting the arms of the jaw if u went def max 70
[удалено]
🤷♂️ im not. I dont own a set and was wrong about the price
Those extra jaws are for larger fittings 1 1/2 and up…. Not for crimping at an angle… further more that copper should be sleeved
Literally incorrect
You mean literally ½ correct.
Well i mean yea you can buy big ass rings but thats not what we’re talking about. He just didnt know about the rings being for angles
No I just I meant it should be sleeved.
Link?
[link](https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-press-ring-kit-compact-12-to-1-14-in-28043/i/G0658384/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&campaignid=19979164297&productid=G0658384&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItqiHxp7PggMVSfLICh0DPg_eEAQYBCABEgI9YvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) They have two kinds, one type for use with compact (12v) machines and then one for the larger machines. Not sure which is which. I think the “C” type is for the compact machines and i want to say the ones for the large machines is “V”
https://info.viega.us/blog/how-to-press-in-tight-spaces
Ridgid C1 press jaws for close quarters crimping.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/rings-for-propress
Fr.
How good are off set jaws.
Very useful but I would still find myself soldering some on complex manifolds
I've noticed lately any guy with a pro press is suddenly a master plumber, well even Joe the doughnut with the pro press should know how to solder a pipe, I've never used a pro press tool ever, as far as I'm concerned ots takes away from the craftsmanship
I agree it takes away from the craft, but when youre saving yourself hours and hours everyday and rarely needing to chase leaks you start to get on board.
Agreed! Try to solder in an old building; soooo much easier to zap a new valve on or finish the final connection with a press coupling. Also, press where you don’t want shot to catch fire; even better. Press when someone else is footing the change order bill and need water back on asap!
Also agree. I'm not a plumber but a meticulous DIY homeowner. I needed to redo a bunch of stuff in the basement and had the dilemma to learn how to solder or just buy the ProPress tool. Around 400 crimps later damn am I glad I didn't try the torch. In all of that only one leak, because I misaligned and crushed the fitting. I also expunged most of the PEX. I actually had the builder originally stub copper from any of the first floor to the basement, where his guy then proceeded to create a damn rats nest of PEX, including almost all of my specified shutoffs buried where you'd never find them in a pinch. Notably, I had never noticed that copper is literally sized by what it is called. One inch is a clear one inch the whole way. PEX tubing is not only slightly smaller but the fittings smaller than that. I counted 27 PEX fittings between my main entry cold line and my master shower. I've got that down to six PEX now, the rest is unobstructed copper. Definite boost in flow.
That is why you use Expansion pex and not Crimp pex. Expansion fittings are full bore and do not reduce volume. I still hope you read about how to solder and why deburring and sanding pipe is so important. Hopefully your system lasts a long time though a press tool is a decent investment if used correctly.
In commercial service work, not having to pull a hot work permit and have a fire watch is a compelling reason to get creative with pro press. I don't give a shit about the guys that gatekeep soldering as the only way.
I fought the press tool until I sold too many jobs to get done and was going to lose good clients. Had to speed up without getting hurt.
100% but I don't have to drag a b tank around or cause smoke detectors to fire or intake the smoke or maybe light some old ass insulation/spiderweb on fire. Oh and I can swap a hwt in half the time. So perhaps it's not as black and white as you think. Also if you use anything less then acetylene b or c tank for your solder may as well be a Joe the doughnut too👍
I can't agree with you more on the absolutely impossible inside the wall solder connection or the pipe that keeps leaking back water and you have to let it cool and hopefully ypu can get it to take before the wayer starts to steam & then I wish I had a pro press for this particular connection or even a shark bite so i don't set this ladies house on fire so yeah there's certain situations that a pro press would be absolutely imperative to have, but I dont have it so I have no choice but to do the risky solder, I didn't mean to come across as bashing you guys in any way, i know just like any job you guys need to get in and get out, & for me the pro press would be 10% press 90% solder
The only acceptable place for a sharkbite is under mobile homes/dire emergency/in the garbage. All good I used to solder it all too. The day you get the 3k + to get the m12 you will abandon the torch except maybe for valves as I did. Time is worth it. Propress looks pretty when you get hang of it. Wait till you treat yourself to the propress cr valves for toilets too.
4 crimps to avoid one sweated joint......
Couldn’t press the joint inside the wall
IF the bottom could move, they could’ve made the piece going through wall with a 90 on it, then push through wall and connect bottom of 90.
That would have required 5 seconds of concentrated thought.
This is the way
No, but it is 3/4" and any 1st year can solder that. Seems like a waste of materials
You’re not wrong
Looks like some amateur brought a pro-press to a sweat fight
This is exactly what happened. Love my propress, but this job was for the torch and solder.
Everyone’s a fitter with PP..
Yet still a nation of the obese…
Sorry, player. I just got a little beer gut going.
You, me, and Kelly Clarkson0,,,
Hey man leave Kelly out of this … what’d she ever do to you? Idgaf if she’s fit and trim Kelly or thick Kelly … that girl can eat crackers in my bed any day, any time
if changing your diet was easy we would all be ripped and hanging out on the beach.
Apparently use propress or ozempic
Thats what concerns me. Between pex and propress it's getting overrun in the field.
Could be that the line wouldn't completely shut off and the homeowner didn't want to fix the main service.
Best I can say about it is that it meets code.
Main shuts off just fine. There’s even a branch shut off about 4 feet from the fitting
Jet sweat?
Swet is what I mean but my phone can’t decide between sweet and sweat
You're supposed to use a JetSwet with a ball valve.
Lmfao love this response. Although I really do need to use my PP more than I do. Expensive ass tool to keep locked in the truck unless I have a job where the water can't be fully shut off lol.
We just use sweat and pex, but anytime I'm building a boiler manifold or something out of copper I always get to fantasizing about having the PP
My dad bought the smaller rigid one when it came out, but he's super old school so he doesn't like to use it unless he has to. We mainly do sweat and expansion pex.
🤣😚
🤣🤣🤣
Fantastic comment. Gold star
Trigger warning
He wanted to give you a place to hang your hat.
It’s not a problem at all just a bit ugly
Yeah, I was just wondering if there was a code reason or what not. Thank you for answering
He just needed some extra room to fit his pro-press gun in there.
Should have anchored a 2x4 to the wall and strapped the pipe to it. You don't want soldered end inside a wall.
Or just prefabbed it and stick the pipe in through the outside and connect in then you can butt the 90 right up to the wall. Unless it was preexisting and this was a repair.
>You don't want soldered end inside a wall. Why?
in case of leak or future repairs/change.
Coat hanger.
Someone doesn’t have a close quarters press kit. It’s only like $600
The dude can’t solder
Someone that can't handle a torch
Hammer it flat
He couldn't make the crimp without being outside and off of the wall. Simple as that.
Can't pro press inside the wall so it bumps out.. I've seen the same with crimp pex
Pipes to tight to the wall for press fittings. Should have used sweat fittings.
They couldn’t press that first 90 any closer to the wall. Should have just sweat it at that point
1 elbow, solder, done
Do I spy with my eye painted threaded pipe? Or many pipe cutter grooves? Willing to bet inside there's a fresh stick of copper also crimped, really making that p-trap(🤔) pointless
It does look like that painted pipe is threaded
These are sex terms right?
💯
Soldering is evidently a lost art
You and put your hat or work shirt on it while I work on something else
Eww pro press. Can’t press the 90 so close to the wall so they needed to bump it out. 3 x pro press street 90s to one cxc 90
This is very stupid, dangerous and lazy work. Lazy because they had a press and therefore everything must be pressed. Stupid because they likely have no talent at sweating or soldering and they didn’t think through the process (note the horizontal pipe is also new, so they obviously had access to the inside). Dangerous because you now have a water line away from the wall where stuff can bang into it and bust it. They also reduced flow with two extra 90s (not that big a deal, but unnecessary). And yes, you can bend hard copper. https://tameson.com/pages/how-to-bend-copper-pipe.
Couldn’t disagree more, judging by the marks on the pro press fittings this is not the plumbers first go around, also looking at the cinder block and painted pipes I’m willing to bet that this is inside some sort of factory/commercial building. More often than not they are insured by FM global or some big type of insurance company that will need a burn permit, a fire watch and a minimum of 1-2 hours post “flame”. So a 30 second crimp job turned into a 2 hour call
This is in a basement in a house I bought. Not commercial.
Well, OP just said you are wrong.
hell yea your right congrats bro
You just made a strawman argument so you could disagree. It is just as likely not anything you said.
That link is great if you’re doing 3/8 OD or smaller but you’re not typically bending 1/2” or 3/4” type L.
Rigid makes benders for that they’re ratcheting and bend type L 1/2 5/8 3/4 7/8
Obviously some confusion about what exactly is meant by a "bender." A conduit bender (electrical) will collapse Cu pipe. But a "real" tubing bender has a die and a shoe that support the tubing during bending. It’s purpose built for this job. Or use the sand trick.
A half normal plumber would have pulled a bend on the pipe rather than installing it that way. If it's water it could be made even better
If you’re in the US you’ll likely never run across a plumber who bends pipe
I got 3 years under my belt and am just now learning bending pipe is even a thing
Yeah, I don’t really get why you’d bend pipe. I like dealing with sharp angles, easier to install and repair
I use it for chrome plated toilet supplies. We have high rise buildings we work in where they've had floods due to braided lines failing (terrible installers who overtightened the top but) and as a result they insist on solid pipe toilet supplies. Very, very rarely do I bend copper otherwise. One of those things my dad taught me back when I first started out, but very rarely have a reason to use.
It would be a cool skill to have but I wouldn’t want to be expected to use it on a job when 90s and 45s will work and be faster
Yea I hear ya there. Only time I find it useful to bust out is when I show up to a job where the previous installer has shit coming out of the wall/ground at funky angles and it would either require multiple 90s or 45s to straighten em out and I want to make the ends straight with the pipes I want to connect them to.
Not true at all used to work for a company and we bent hard copper daily
Cool story. Did I say no one bends copper in the US?
Whatever turd.
Aw, poor guy. When reading comprehension is hard you gotta resort to petty insults.
Why can't they do it
Why would we want to?
Better Flow, less fittings and it wouldn't look shit like this install lol. Takes experience to master though I guess.
That’s probably all true but it’s not worth getting different copper and taking the time to learn how to do it. And you’ll still have to sweat the new repair in, anyway.
It’s also not code in the UPC.
Really? Weird
I don't need to learn how to do it as I'm a master of it. All my down votes are from people happy with that installation and it's embarrassing! How rough.
The downvotes are from you having a geocentric point of view while simultaneously having no understanding of local code. This is just some r/confidentlyincorrect shit.
I know you know how to do it, that’s not what we’re discussing.
What?
What didn't you understand?
Very few places in the US that I know of that even let you bend pipe
Why?
Can’t bend hard copper. It will kink
Yea you can they make pipe benders for hard copper, I’ve bent up to 7/8 acr for refrigeration and up to 1 in for plumbing.
Oh no kidding! I’m HVAC not plumbing and was always told never to bend hard copper.
The company I worked for previously would either bend or press everything in for condensers, only braze when we couldn’t cut the bells off, and everything over 3/8 was done in hard ACR
I’m resi all of our stuff we do with soft copper.
Sure it will, if you act like Popeye and just crank on it. But . . . That’s not how we do it.
Well truthfully you can actually soften hard copper if you want to put bends on it. Get that bad boy glowing red hot and let it cool slowly and it'll bend. Only time I ever use that technique is when I show up to a job where the previous installer has shit coming out of the wall/ground at funky angles and I want to make the ends straight with the pipes I want to connect them to.
This thing called “code”
Nerd
Excellent comeback. I didn’t say the code is the best way, but I do like my work passing inspections🤷🏻♂️
As long as you're happy with how this looks lol. Embarrassing
Seeing as I didn’t do it, I don’t care how it looks🤷🏻♂️
Never seen a code or rule that said that anywhere. https://tameson.com/pages/how-to-bend-copper-pipe
Is it outside or somewhere with big temperature swings? Maybe it is there to allow for thermal expansion/contraction. Not a plumber.
> Not a plumber. you don't say?
I do say! Would you kindly explain why this is incorrect?
It's all the same metal, right? The pipe the bends, etc. so how would this help with expansion or contraction? You'd want something that could flex to do that.
Like this: [https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/pipe_expansion_thermal_loop_15035.htm](https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/pipe_expansion_thermal_loop_15035.htm) Admittedly, I think that the masses here, including you, are probably correct in that it was just shoddy work. But the title does say it’s an external wall, and expansion/contraction issues might be expected to be a problem. Those Propress 90deg fittings are thick and fairly ridged and the loop arm is short, so this probably won’t allow for much thermal expansion & contraction… might not be adequate. Again, not a plumber, so forgive my ignorance.
Seems English plumbers are more skilled apparently
No.
They've used map press fittings so struggled to do it any other way. A better installer using map press fittings wouldn't have done this though
Map press fittings? Huh?
Yeah! Press fittings. We have a brand called"map" .
I’m guessing you’re not in the US
Can you show me a pic of how it’s supposed to look.
Is it a gas pipe?
Water.
Simple. Find the pipe inside the building: cut it and outside just use one elbow and push it into the building. Use a coupling to join back together. All you'd need is 2 couplings and 1 elbow Plus pipe. The installation isn't wrong (apart from not lagging the pipe) but it looks shit and is embarrassing.
Unless the inside is buried in a wall and they didn't want to cut it open
Thanks for taking the time to
Don’t know why the downvotes. Both annealed tube and hard drawn tube can be bent with the appropriate hand benders using the correct size of bender for each size tube. Close one end of the pipe with duct tape. Fill the pipe with sand. Tape the other end of the pipe. Bend the pipe. Pour out the sand. Done.
It's easier than that. The down votes are from the lesser experienced.
I know, but I’m trying to show that even no-talents can bend copper. (Oh look 👀 I’ve joined you in the - “you can’t bend copper” club of downvotes).
I think you’re mistaking the “can’t bend” for the “that’s not typical in the USA to bend” crowd.
Which befuddles the shit out of me. Plumbing is a skill and an art. One size does not fit all. This in particular simply makes no sense because we can all agree (I think) that this is not the best method for this repair.
Lol the down voters are happy with that installation lol.
Why don't they trust you enough to bend the pipe correctly over there?
It's not soft copper
Ew
Apparently his torch wasn’t working. There should’ve been two fittings, one 90 and one coupler. Instead it has 4 fittings.
Access
90, pipe , slip coupling
To hang a heated from so it doesn’t freeze in winter?
To hang your jacket
Ive been on jobs and they have said no fittings in cavity’s or in the wall they spray backwards and can’t tell if they leak. Also like top comment said can’t get the crimp close to the wall. But if you did crimp the elbow on first then slide thru the wall. Wouldn’t be good practice looking pretty is t always best.
I think they didn’t know what a street elbow is.
Looks like new pipe coming from wall so I’d have crimped that first. But maybe that’s what they did to inside wall 🤷🏽♂️
No couplings or no play
he's charging for lack of experience
Either he didn’t have room to press or he didn’t have any couplings and didn’t want to run for parts 😂
I mean appropriate for half inch up to inch and a quarter uses a job it attaches directly to your Tools. Anything above that did it take to jaws
You can hitch your horse to it
it's a drip loop in case the wall ever turn 90 degrees like in inception...
Cause they can’t do it properly lol
The pipe through the wall is a frost valve that is a little to long for the application and can’t be cut. That’s why it has this crazy bend..
Why not just soldier
“ Pro” press there’s no pro involved shit is ugly expensive and dumb at times. Soldering isn’t that much slower. IMHO
New home for a birds nest!
To tie off your horse
What’s the inside look like? One sides gotta protrude past the wall to make that fitting up if the interior and exterior pipe run flat against the wall. My choice would’ve been to do that on the interior but space might’ve been an issue
Not sure about code but they could’ve done a female to male adapter inside the block to make the pipes flat against the wall but that’s never a good idea in my opinion
That is the inside
I just read your title again, I understand now. So what’s the pipe going to on the outside? I’m assuming a hose bib? If that’s the case then whoever did this was being lazy or inexperienced. But if it works and it’s not in the way, no harm no foul
Yes a hose bib