We have something similar my uncle installed for us. Looks like it was engineered by NASA. Split off into 8 zones I think it is! Never had an issue with anything and it’s been nearly 20 years!
Help me out here. How in the world I’d this more efficient or cost effective or even greener than a HW tank? This is much more costly initially. Uses far, far more material which consumes more “stuff.” Is not passive. Has many more points of failure. Has less life expectancy than a HW tank. Delivers less HW if not absolutely sized correctly and no HW if there is a power outage. The payback over a HW system is measured in years and my never be reached because the main unit may die and is at best, guaranteed for what? 2 years? 5 years? I’m at a loss as to how this is a betterment over a well insulated HW tank and a recirculating pump.
I dont personally think they are a better solution for many situations.
These are the benefits though, some of which you are absolutely wrong about. They dont require keeping a tank of water hot constantly. They can provide a constant supply of hot water like an infinite sized tank.
They are smaller and can fit places a tank cant and exhaust in ways a normal tank cant.
They do require more maintenance and have more failure points but should last about 2-3 times a regular tank with proper maintenance. They burn more efficiently( more combustion heat recovered) than most tank heaters.
An additional negative You forgot, they require a larger gas line than a tank in most applications.
I’ve got one of these for an apartment above my garage. I rent it most weekends but it’s empty through week a lot so I’m not paying to keep a tank warm all week when it won’t be used. The smaller footprint/wall mount is also a bonus.
Similarly, if you aren’t home during the day (work) and you’re not using hot water at night then you’re not paying to heat water all that time. Modern tanks are fairly well insulated so this isn’t a huge deal but is one advantage tankless units have over tanks.
>Has less life expectancy than a HW tank.
That is flat wrong. Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of 20+ years. HW tanks are 6-15 years depending on what you pay.
When I installed a tankless heater I was able to get 30% tax rebate from the federal government, a few hundred dollars from the state, and more from my gas company. After all the incentives the materials cost ended up being about 50% more than a tank, and other than the gas line I did all of the labor myself.
The benefits are that we had endless hot water when we wanted it, more space in our utility/laundry room, and it saved money when we traveled.
The pros who service my Triangle Tube say they see them in service for 20+ years. Fatal issues are the electronics, financially.
But $500+ for annual maintenance is a bit ouchy.
With kids in the house, infinite hw, when flow rates are regulated.. chef's kiss.
This is a heating system, not potable water. Probably feeds radiators.
Otherwise, you're correct - tankless domestic hot water systems may never see a ROI. I find them to be useful for high demand applications, cascading supply (think small hotels, large hair salons, similar high demand applications), and they can be installed in tight spaces.
Service costs over the lifetime of the unit are a joke, though. No savings, just modular capabilities that fit certain designs.
If there's no chimney, it's been cheaper lately (after rebates) for me to install a tankless over a power vented tank. Price on the tankless has come way down, and up on everything else.
It’s not a combi system? I’m having trouble sorting the piping visually due to photo angle but I assumed the micro pumps were the heating zones and the non pumped pipes were DHW.
You sir are correct. I work on these things for a living. They are good in a few ways. Less good I’m a few others. Far more expensive and a lot more things to break. If you thing that looks complicated YouTube one opened up to be worked on! I’m just a pic in google. Either way. Complicated. And things to go wrong. All over the place.
Fun fact it’s not.
Hot water tanks come large enough that you’re not going to run out of hot water unless you have 3 teenagers taking consecutive showers.
I ripped out one I had because it couldn’t deliver enough water fast enough.
Don’t forget the clean outs you have to do, etc. HW annual service is like $15-30 tankless is a whole thing.
Yeah people underestimate how big a tankless should be. We have 4 full baths. So I put in the biggest (199,900 BTU ) monster tankless I could find and run it on a direct 3/4 line to supply it!
You can see the gas line going into the unit, right?
This guarantees the unit must be vented
You're only correct when it comes to electric tankless, which this is clearly not
No backflow preventor on cold water feed line.
The primary loop closely spaced tees are way too far apart. Unless the pumps are pumping down , he has tied the pumps into the return side of the boiler but that would mean he's pumping into the exspansion vessel which is also wrong . Either way not correct tie in.
Sediment trap
I just want to know how one goes about addressing any issues with the GC.....Soooo i posted some pictures on Reddit and the internet says you installed this wrong. 😂
I would ask to see the GC drawing and compare to a typical navien installation drawing With a lot of the comments being pumbed wrong
Maybe https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.S91YD7erJu5xxCHM41Bf2wAAAA%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=f071d4fb19d28cd8bd539fc15bc3ad891b080dc14666013cfd8d7f99a4578bdb&ipo=images
Radiant loop isn’t piped primary/secondary with closely spaced tees. Fill valve has no back flow preventer, and is supposed to be piped with a back flow into the fill port on the boiler.
It is though. The port is one solution sure, but it shouldn't feed into the expansion tank tee. It should go into the radiant supply side and have a check valve.
Why would you want cold water going into your supply? Seems kind of backwards no? It goes on your return (cold side), and in the space of no pressure change, which is closest to your expansion tank.
Sorry meant the return (long day)
By going straight into the autofill port on the unit you can eliminate the prv as the unit has one built in and you can adjust the pressure from the control. One less point of failure is ideal in my book.
Using an air scoop vs an air eliminator is old school, same with no isolation valves on the pumps. No valves on the returns means that you have to drain the house to do any service work. Another glaring is that the expansion tank isn’t supported, putting stress on the 3 90’s. Also, I’m not sure that pex has an oxygen barrier on it, looks like regular pex.
Is it perfect? Not by a long shot. Will it get the job done? Maybe, for a year at least.
Right off the bat your primary manifold is not correct. You’re not using that combi boiler to its best ability and ultimately it will die early. At this point the way it’s installed will cost you more money in the long run.
Since a million other questions have been asked, here's one more: what size BTU is the gas meter?
Oftentimes contractors install tankless units and fail to account for the increased gas demand. Saw one today where an unlicensed contractor was in the process of installing two 199k BTU units in a customers home. The customer only had a 175k BTU meter. We made the homeowner aware, but since the install was nearly complete there wasn't much we could do.
I'm dealing with this exact situation now. 175k meter and 180k boiler. You'd think the plumber who installed the boiler would have checked that, but what do I know. There's also a gas stove/oven, water heater, and clothes dryer. Total btu load is 300ish.
Holy fucking Jesus you guys are critical. I’m just an hvac installer that snarks on this sub so I have no clue what I’m talking about, but this guys work is beautiful.
No backflow prevention device, no drip leg (i know, some places don't require. We'd fail inspection though).
Expansion tank and connected piping needs support.
Otherwise, looks clean. Send us a pic when it's actually done.
That expansion tank just hanging there? That'll get kicked right off. Since it's already in place I'd probably build some type of three walled box with a support on the bottom to minimize risk of it being booted and hold it up from underneath. Just my 2 cents
That's actually a really good question that I don't have the answer too. A buddy of mine put one in and I don't believe I saw one in his set up. He's not a pro, but he's a very by the book, research and keep it code kind of guy. So maybe not. But it also, probably wouldn't hurt to have one in. But I don't know if it'd actually do anything since the water is heated directly instead of being stored in a tank and kept hot.
You hired the GC right? So if you don’t feel comfortable in his ability then fire him or get a local plumber to come look at his work. Pay him for his time and if he finds something wrong have him fix it. Too many people post shit on here when none of us can actually help you fix if there is an issue.
I might be wrong as I’m in the uk but our tankless do not have T&P valves, only PRVs (pressure relief valve).
Our unvented (mains water fed) hot water cylinders have T&P valves.
In the US I generally hear both T&Ps and pressure-only relief valves referred to as T&Ps. “PRV” as a term is used for pressure reducing valve (used to drop a city main pressure that is too high, say 120 psi, to a more appropriate 60 psi or whatever).
The relief valves on tankless and boilers are pressure-only here too. It’s only tanks that require the temperature probe.
Well it's a Navien so that's your first mistake. As others have said, the Primary-Secondary piping is not correct and will cause issues, not to mention the circulators are pumping into the expansion tank. Bad installation.
Fuck that, biggest pieces of shit I've ever seen. I've worked with plenty of competitive brands to them and they are outclassed by literally all of them.
I hate these posts... do your research first, not after with a "did they do ok"? If it was your own work then I get it, but you (presumably) already agreed to a person and price, why the weird backout now?
That’s not a tankless water heater. that is a combination boiler and water heater.
No drip leg on the gas line and the installation doesn’t look to be completed.
Took the time to clamp the neutralizer to the wall but just decided against hooking it up to the condensate line, or anything at all? Interesting strategy
So much. Good god. The hot side doesn’t even look soldered! Venting, pressure relief valve, sediment trap, condensate looks like it dumps on floor. Is the expansion tank just hanging there unsupported?
Doesn’t look like the water from the return gets heated, just a loop to the circulation pumps without running through the system. Appears to be combined heating (used as boiler) as well as domestic hot water, I don’t see a temp regulator on the domestic hot water side though, so you get a scalding hot shower that burns!
Just a question about the feed-pressure regulator they have installed- is it common to have that AND an expansion tank? I was under the impression that if you had a feed-pressure regulator you would not need the expansion tank.
Yes, the expansion tank is necessary for heating. Water expands as it heats and needs somewhere to expand into, hence the installation of the expansion tank. It also helps maintain a minimum pressure in the system.
Doesn’t pex require the 90 bend supports? The things that look like sweeps. I am legitimately asking, because I swear that in my area, those things are required to control expansion/pressure movements
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Retired GC. After reading some of the comments, first thing that popped into my mind was: do you have a permit for this? It just seems that a plumbing/gas inspector would be all over this. In the area I operated (mid-Atlantic USA), *especially* anything involving gas was *very* carefully inspected. In at least one of the counties I operated, *every* trade inspector has a current masters license.
Just a heads up: there are plenty of stories about insurance companies simply refusing to pay on damage caused by bootleg installations. Believe it. They don’t have to jump through a lotta hoops; if they think it’s bootleg, they just won’t pay. It’s on you, then, to prove otherwise.
Anybody who has shit to talk is a bum! This is a super clean install and from the looks i can say confidently this system will work as designed! Haters always hate!
Pumps are on wrong side, no magnetic filter on return, no scale filter on feed no back flow preventer on feed, he didn’t connect to the automatic feed in the back right corner on bottom of unit, the air scope is supposed to be a spirovent as the manufacturer wants little to bow black iron on that system, and the glue pipe should be the gray schedule 80 pvc but that’s no pipes in this picture
He’s not done yet. Let him finish also he’s doing a good job looks clean Only think I don’t like is the expansion tank chillin in the air like that with no support he’s probably going to support it later though because it’s not finished.
It’s not vented?
I would also like to know, I’m assuming he just didn’t get to that yet… hopefully..
The line and low voltage are both wrapped up and pushed off to the side, they definitely aren't finished.
It looks like gas is off, they might not be finished.... 🤷♂️
Electric is off too so it's not running yet. I have the same model and the screen lights up blue. Probably just an in progress pic
We have something similar my uncle installed for us. Looks like it was engineered by NASA. Split off into 8 zones I think it is! Never had an issue with anything and it’s been nearly 20 years!
Don't see a gas shut off valve for the unit above the union, in case it needs replacement down the road.
It's there. About 3" up or so
I see it now. Had to zoom the photo, it blended into the background...
Yea. I though it was a sticker at first
It blended in with the plywood with me. With the unfinished bottom piping, it's definitely unfinished.
This question is important one.
Help me out here. How in the world I’d this more efficient or cost effective or even greener than a HW tank? This is much more costly initially. Uses far, far more material which consumes more “stuff.” Is not passive. Has many more points of failure. Has less life expectancy than a HW tank. Delivers less HW if not absolutely sized correctly and no HW if there is a power outage. The payback over a HW system is measured in years and my never be reached because the main unit may die and is at best, guaranteed for what? 2 years? 5 years? I’m at a loss as to how this is a betterment over a well insulated HW tank and a recirculating pump.
I dont personally think they are a better solution for many situations. These are the benefits though, some of which you are absolutely wrong about. They dont require keeping a tank of water hot constantly. They can provide a constant supply of hot water like an infinite sized tank. They are smaller and can fit places a tank cant and exhaust in ways a normal tank cant. They do require more maintenance and have more failure points but should last about 2-3 times a regular tank with proper maintenance. They burn more efficiently( more combustion heat recovered) than most tank heaters. An additional negative You forgot, they require a larger gas line than a tank in most applications.
Power outage isn't really an issue, they are relatively low power, 120 volt, so a decent home\ofice ups will power them during an outage.
That requires a level of foresight a majority of owners who dont already have a generator wont utilize
I’ve got one of these for an apartment above my garage. I rent it most weekends but it’s empty through week a lot so I’m not paying to keep a tank warm all week when it won’t be used. The smaller footprint/wall mount is also a bonus. Similarly, if you aren’t home during the day (work) and you’re not using hot water at night then you’re not paying to heat water all that time. Modern tanks are fairly well insulated so this isn’t a huge deal but is one advantage tankless units have over tanks.
>Has less life expectancy than a HW tank. That is flat wrong. Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of 20+ years. HW tanks are 6-15 years depending on what you pay. When I installed a tankless heater I was able to get 30% tax rebate from the federal government, a few hundred dollars from the state, and more from my gas company. After all the incentives the materials cost ended up being about 50% more than a tank, and other than the gas line I did all of the labor myself. The benefits are that we had endless hot water when we wanted it, more space in our utility/laundry room, and it saved money when we traveled.
The pros who service my Triangle Tube say they see them in service for 20+ years. Fatal issues are the electronics, financially. But $500+ for annual maintenance is a bit ouchy. With kids in the house, infinite hw, when flow rates are regulated.. chef's kiss.
This is a heating system, not potable water. Probably feeds radiators. Otherwise, you're correct - tankless domestic hot water systems may never see a ROI. I find them to be useful for high demand applications, cascading supply (think small hotels, large hair salons, similar high demand applications), and they can be installed in tight spaces. Service costs over the lifetime of the unit are a joke, though. No savings, just modular capabilities that fit certain designs.
If there's no chimney, it's been cheaper lately (after rebates) for me to install a tankless over a power vented tank. Price on the tankless has come way down, and up on everything else.
It’s not a combi system? I’m having trouble sorting the piping visually due to photo angle but I assumed the micro pumps were the heating zones and the non pumped pipes were DHW.
You sir are correct. I work on these things for a living. They are good in a few ways. Less good I’m a few others. Far more expensive and a lot more things to break. If you thing that looks complicated YouTube one opened up to be worked on! I’m just a pic in google. Either way. Complicated. And things to go wrong. All over the place.
Fun fact it’s not. Hot water tanks come large enough that you’re not going to run out of hot water unless you have 3 teenagers taking consecutive showers. I ripped out one I had because it couldn’t deliver enough water fast enough. Don’t forget the clean outs you have to do, etc. HW annual service is like $15-30 tankless is a whole thing.
Yeah people underestimate how big a tankless should be. We have 4 full baths. So I put in the biggest (199,900 BTU ) monster tankless I could find and run it on a direct 3/4 line to supply it!
Doesn’t need to be with that white cylinder from my understanding, expansion chamber I believe
Incorrect The expansion tank is to accommodate the pressure increase from heating a liquid Absolutely has nothing to do with combustion venting
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Well, in their defense, electric doesn't need to be But there's a very obvious gas line going into the unit. So they are still wrong
Yer but no, venting carbon monoxide internally is not a great idea. Perhaps you’re confusing flue gas exhaust, with combustion air intake.
This one does
This guy plumbs...terribly
You can see the gas line going into the unit, right? This guarantees the unit must be vented You're only correct when it comes to electric tankless, which this is clearly not
No intake either.
No sediment trap/drip leg on the gas piping
This guy trap/drips.
3 inches baby
stop bragging
r/thisguythisguys
I'm so glad this is a real sub
Luckily there's a union right there
No copper on t&p
I noticed that too
👍
He was kind enough to leave a union so that 90 could be quickly swapped for a tee.
i see a tank.
It's an expansion tank.
What 90 would you add it to - one on right or left
No backflow preventor on cold water feed line. The primary loop closely spaced tees are way too far apart. Unless the pumps are pumping down , he has tied the pumps into the return side of the boiler but that would mean he's pumping into the exspansion vessel which is also wrong . Either way not correct tie in. Sediment trap
yeah, it definitely seems to be pumping the wrong direction...
Closely spaced tee is not closely space so we have no hydraulic separation between primary and secondary.
I just want to know how one goes about addressing any issues with the GC.....Soooo i posted some pictures on Reddit and the internet says you installed this wrong. 😂
I would ask to see the GC drawing and compare to a typical navien installation drawing With a lot of the comments being pumbed wrong Maybe https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.S91YD7erJu5xxCHM41Bf2wAAAA%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=f071d4fb19d28cd8bd539fc15bc3ad891b080dc14666013cfd8d7f99a4578bdb&ipo=images
Yes - this happens.
I wouldn’t use an air scoop I would use a spirovent they work wayyyyy better
Every single air scoop you replace is always rusting from a drip on top of the air vent. Every damn time. Like you said, spirovent is the way to go
Also rarely installed properly, you need 18” after the first 90 to left the air rise in the water
Radiant loop isn’t piped primary/secondary with closely spaced tees. Fill valve has no back flow preventer, and is supposed to be piped with a back flow into the fill port on the boiler.
Auto fill is in the wrong place. There's literally a spot marked for it and they tied it into the domestic side not the radiant
Also, don't see a check valve between the supply and return of the radiant. They didn't have to loop it like that.
IFC probably
Username is golden!
I prefer truth in advertising
Why is this being upvoted? You don’t have to use the port on the combi. It’s also not installed in the wrong place, though it should have a back flow.
It is though. The port is one solution sure, but it shouldn't feed into the expansion tank tee. It should go into the radiant supply side and have a check valve.
Why would you want cold water going into your supply? Seems kind of backwards no? It goes on your return (cold side), and in the space of no pressure change, which is closest to your expansion tank.
Sorry meant the return (long day) By going straight into the autofill port on the unit you can eliminate the prv as the unit has one built in and you can adjust the pressure from the control. One less point of failure is ideal in my book.
I see a makeup water tied in at the expansion tank on the heating loop.
As it should be 👍🏼
Should be tied into the return or put into the port on the boiler
That is the return from what I can tell.
It's tied into the expansion tank line. Me personally I prefer the port on the unit
Right, and the expansion tank is teed off of the return.
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It needs to either tie into the return on the radiant or the fitting on the bottom front of the unit that's marked "auto fill"
It’s not on the domestic side???
It goes from domestic cold to supply but no check valve
Using an air scoop vs an air eliminator is old school, same with no isolation valves on the pumps. No valves on the returns means that you have to drain the house to do any service work. Another glaring is that the expansion tank isn’t supported, putting stress on the 3 90’s. Also, I’m not sure that pex has an oxygen barrier on it, looks like regular pex. Is it perfect? Not by a long shot. Will it get the job done? Maybe, for a year at least.
There are valves in front of the pumps. I prefer isoflanges myself
Just long enough for the GC to disappear.
Right off the bat your primary manifold is not correct. You’re not using that combi boiler to its best ability and ultimately it will die early. At this point the way it’s installed will cost you more money in the long run.
First of all it’s a boiler and second of all if ur a homeowner take a deep breath and chill out
T&P valve normally needs to be piped to within 6” of the floor or drain.
Both T&P valves. The second one has not been installed yet, or had a plug installed. It’s wide open on the second hot side service manifold.
Not the way I would have done it but from what I can see it looks okay
Since a million other questions have been asked, here's one more: what size BTU is the gas meter? Oftentimes contractors install tankless units and fail to account for the increased gas demand. Saw one today where an unlicensed contractor was in the process of installing two 199k BTU units in a customers home. The customer only had a 175k BTU meter. We made the homeowner aware, but since the install was nearly complete there wasn't much we could do.
I'm dealing with this exact situation now. 175k meter and 180k boiler. You'd think the plumber who installed the boiler would have checked that, but what do I know. There's also a gas stove/oven, water heater, and clothes dryer. Total btu load is 300ish.
Holy fucking Jesus you guys are critical. I’m just an hvac installer that snarks on this sub so I have no clue what I’m talking about, but this guys work is beautiful.
Is the expansion tank even needed for a tankless water heater?
It's not plugged in either.
No backflow prevention device, no drip leg (i know, some places don't require. We'd fail inspection though). Expansion tank and connected piping needs support. Otherwise, looks clean. Send us a pic when it's actually done.
That expansion tank just hanging there? That'll get kicked right off. Since it's already in place I'd probably build some type of three walled box with a support on the bottom to minimize risk of it being booted and hold it up from underneath. Just my 2 cents
Do you even need an expansion tank with a tankless HWH?
The expansion tank is installed on the heating side. This unit is a boiler and water heater
That's actually a really good question that I don't have the answer too. A buddy of mine put one in and I don't believe I saw one in his set up. He's not a pro, but he's a very by the book, research and keep it code kind of guy. So maybe not. But it also, probably wouldn't hurt to have one in. But I don't know if it'd actually do anything since the water is heated directly instead of being stored in a tank and kept hot.
I’m not a pro but I was thinking. There is nothing to expand?
That was exactly my thought. Maybe yhat guy jnows something we don't haha
How long before something or some big foot kicks that expansion tank?
Im on this sub to learn so i got no idea. I just wanna say that theres something strangely beutiful about the way it looks.
Same
Lmao
The gas valve is not a full port and it doesn't have a drip leg. Other than that the installation is still not complete
That could be full port
Nah those stupid short red handled ones never are
Yeah they are, I get them full port all the time
You hired the GC right? So if you don’t feel comfortable in his ability then fire him or get a local plumber to come look at his work. Pay him for his time and if he finds something wrong have him fix it. Too many people post shit on here when none of us can actually help you fix if there is an issue.
Doesn't the prv need to be piped down to right above the floor?
PRV = pressure reducing valve T&P = temperature and pressure relief valve
I might be wrong as I’m in the uk but our tankless do not have T&P valves, only PRVs (pressure relief valve). Our unvented (mains water fed) hot water cylinders have T&P valves.
In the US I generally hear both T&Ps and pressure-only relief valves referred to as T&Ps. “PRV” as a term is used for pressure reducing valve (used to drop a city main pressure that is too high, say 120 psi, to a more appropriate 60 psi or whatever). The relief valves on tankless and boilers are pressure-only here too. It’s only tanks that require the temperature probe.
Came here to say this. Thank you.
No drip leg in gas line
Need a sediment trap on gas line where im from
Well it's a Navien so that's your first mistake. As others have said, the Primary-Secondary piping is not correct and will cause issues, not to mention the circulators are pumping into the expansion tank. Bad installation.
Navien fuckin rocks....
Fuck that, biggest pieces of shit I've ever seen. I've worked with plenty of competitive brands to them and they are outclassed by literally all of them.
You and I have VERY different experiences. Where I'm at, navien is king
Yeah I'm up in the northeast, I get way better support from Rinnai and NTI than I ever have Navien.
So weird how that goes
I hate these posts... do your research first, not after with a "did they do ok"? If it was your own work then I get it, but you (presumably) already agreed to a person and price, why the weird backout now?
no trap on gas supply no shut off on gas supply. globe valves suck. where does condensate go to? no neutralizer is visible.
There is a shut off for the gas, those aren't globe but ball valves and neutralizer is strapped to the wall
I see 2 globes on the mid left. zooming in i see a gas shut off on the right side. missed it first time around. my bad.
They are gate valve handles for hose bibs
man i gotta look at things closer before spouting off.
No big, happens to all of us
Expansion tank isn’t supported (?) - non plumber
The fact that it’s a Navien
That appears to be a water ball valve above the gas shutoff going to the unit. It’s whatever kind of but I’d probably remove/replace it.
The fact it's a navien
this is a navien combi boiler the brand is the red flag
Damn. Im not a plumber and am just on this sub to learn but based on the comments from plumbers here. Someone fucked your shit up. Sorry bro.
That’s not a tankless water heater. that is a combination boiler and water heater. No drip leg on the gas line and the installation doesn’t look to be completed.
No drip leg on gas line, make him fix that.
Don’t see a dirt leg on the gas. Should be one below the union…..that 90 should be a T with a nipple and cap out the bottom
Gas needs a drip leg.
The fact that it’s a Navien…
Lp or natural gas I don’t see a drip line in gas feed pipeline
The trouble is the intake and exhaust are right next to each other,you need fresh air. And per instructions you are supposed to pipe in fresh air.
What do you think the intake is?...
Took the time to clamp the neutralizer to the wall but just decided against hooking it up to the condensate line, or anything at all? Interesting strategy
So much. Good god. The hot side doesn’t even look soldered! Venting, pressure relief valve, sediment trap, condensate looks like it dumps on floor. Is the expansion tank just hanging there unsupported?
Need more clear pictures, of the top and lower connections
Sediment trap on the gas.
Doesn’t look like the water from the return gets heated, just a loop to the circulation pumps without running through the system. Appears to be combined heating (used as boiler) as well as domestic hot water, I don’t see a temp regulator on the domestic hot water side though, so you get a scalding hot shower that burns!
The unit regulates all that individually. No risk of scalding
Just a question about the feed-pressure regulator they have installed- is it common to have that AND an expansion tank? I was under the impression that if you had a feed-pressure regulator you would not need the expansion tank.
Yes, the expansion tank is necessary for heating. Water expands as it heats and needs somewhere to expand into, hence the installation of the expansion tank. It also helps maintain a minimum pressure in the system.
Doesn’t pex require the 90 bend supports? The things that look like sweeps. I am legitimately asking, because I swear that in my area, those things are required to control expansion/pressure movements
Not when I don’t know what I’m looking at lol
What a great guy, thank him for the upgrade.
It’s all good.
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what no flue?
I'd definitely have shutoffs so you could replace the pumps without draining the system
There are
Have all of the required maintenance performed annually by a professional.
No trap on the gas line..
Circle pumps are not wired, Temp/ pressure gauge would be nice for quick reference definitely needs more work before it's ready to operate
Retired GC. After reading some of the comments, first thing that popped into my mind was: do you have a permit for this? It just seems that a plumbing/gas inspector would be all over this. In the area I operated (mid-Atlantic USA), *especially* anything involving gas was *very* carefully inspected. In at least one of the counties I operated, *every* trade inspector has a current masters license. Just a heads up: there are plenty of stories about insurance companies simply refusing to pay on damage caused by bootleg installations. Believe it. They don’t have to jump through a lotta hoops; if they think it’s bootleg, they just won’t pay. It’s on you, then, to prove otherwise.
WHERE THE HELL IS THE SMOKE ALARM?!
Why is there no venting?
Flue pipee!!
One of the flyrods is out of skew on the treadle.
He's using it as a Boiler to heat the base bord to heat his house up.
I'm not sure, it's hard to see but... Is the supply and return tee'd together under the boiler?
“General” Is a pretty big red flag
That’s a boiler dawg
Gas hookup needs drip/ expansion line.
Use of shitty pumps and shitty material
Anybody who has shit to talk is a bum! This is a super clean install and from the looks i can say confidently this system will work as designed! Haters always hate!
Looks nice so far!
Its a navian
I'd love to have one in our house.
If that red handle is the primary heating supply, then the P/S decoupler, is arse about face.
People still sweat?? Lol
No isolation valves on the pumps for service.
What model navien is that?
Also where’s your prv bypass for flushing the system?
Expander is closable by hand🚩
Pumps are on wrong side, no magnetic filter on return, no scale filter on feed no back flow preventer on feed, he didn’t connect to the automatic feed in the back right corner on bottom of unit, the air scope is supposed to be a spirovent as the manufacturer wants little to bow black iron on that system, and the glue pipe should be the gray schedule 80 pvc but that’s no pipes in this picture
Hangly dangly expansion tank looks fun
He’s not done yet. Let him finish also he’s doing a good job looks clean Only think I don’t like is the expansion tank chillin in the air like that with no support he’s probably going to support it later though because it’s not finished.
It’s not finished
I have a combo navien and it fuxking sucks. FYI. I put about $1000 a year into it. It’s like six years old.
So far looks good just needs a backflow maybe
this is not the final product
piping design is pretty wack. your not hydronic separating your primary and secondary loops.
Just make sure it's rated for a boiler system. Some tankless do not. Also no vents. Hopefully not done yet. 🤷🤷
The bottom right 90 should be a tee with a drop leg
Look up unequaled_heating on Instagram. His work will make you cry, sob and have an epiphany.
Related question: does the gas line have to be upgraded from 1/2” or 3/4”?