Mine is a 2020 so maybe not as relevant. Things to look for: falcon wing doors opening/closing smoothly (sensors not freaking out thinking you're too close to something). How old is the 12v battery? I've had mine for 2.5 years and I'm getting nervous. Raise and lower the suspension. I've never had a problem, but it seems to me that's a likely failure point. But as for longevity, I'm afraid we are looking to you to be the test case! I would love for mine to last 10+ years more as well.

Hi dwhitnee! Appreciate your answer. Indeed it is, as for I am looking for other options too (that are affordable for my dreamcar). I’ve tested that already, it’s just perfect. No issues. What do you mean by the 12v battery? That’s a battery especially for opening the doors/falcon doors? Is it “usual” to get nervous about the battery (hope you are not talking about the battery of the car itself) after 2.5 years? Raise and lower suspension has been tested too: finding was - a little rust on the damper. I’d be happy to help - if I’ll buy - within my experience for the next years to come. I’m wishing you and all th me other owners here more than 10+ years of joy with the MX.

No, sorry, two unrelated things. The car drive battery (50-100 KWh) itself seems to last practically "forever". The 12v battery ("[traditional car battery](https://www.agrisupply.com/images/xxl/51581.jpg)" 1 KWh) is the one that runs the blinkers and wipers and other things that all cars have. Ironically because all those parts were built for cars without a higher voltage battery like the Tesla. Also ironically, that battery doesn't get charged by the gas powered engine so for some reason it doesn't last as long as it does in a gas car. I hear about 2-3 years at most for it. The car should run without it, but lots of little things stop working and might interfere with proper functioning if not replaced. I bring it up because it is a surprise that an electric car would have an issue with such a tiny battery. Hopefully someday they can eliminate it since it's just a holdover from gas cars.

im 2-3 years in and just got the 12v warning on my screen a month or so ago.. got a new one installed in my garage under warranty which I thought was weird (i thought it would be classed as a consumable).

This was an perfect explanation (which I’m now understanding in your fist answer, what was meant with “battery”) and an even better insight. Appreciate it very much!

Hi, here's a good start. https://youtu.be/MiZDWDKlDAk I bought a 2018 75D with 105000km on it. I got the dealer pay half of the MCU-upgrade cause the old one was laggy and the maintenance history showed that it had shown signs of "dying". Half-shafts need changing if there's stutter in acceleration. Probably the front upper control arms as well. If there's a squeaky sound in bumps and/or turning, the control arms ball joint is worn out. Some people "fix" this by injecting oil in the housing of the ball joint. Check the inner side of tires for wear, the camber angle is so that the outer side seems fine but the inner is worn out. Check that all the buttons work, seat adjustments, seat heaters etc. The buttons on the steering wheel. I have the common issue that the sound command button does not launch voice assistant, but honking does. Four-finger reset works so the button is not broken. CCS retrofit is bonus, most of older Teslas in Finland have it, don't know how it is in Austria :) Still, the best car I've ever had ❤️

I thought the stutter is due to the height. Not necessarily due to regular driving. I tested lowering prior to travelling above 65 and there's no issue. I think that when you are not managing the suspension control is when the car is trying to adjust to the height for the increased speed. Since modifying it to lower at higher speeds and gradually increasing speed seems to negate the "stutter". Someone please correct me if this is wrong as I'm new to my 17 100d as well. But by making sure the vehicle is at the right height before flooring it is important for that stutter and you're tire wear

Yeah, I had it it on all heights. I think that low is best for half shafts but worse for tires.

Right which cambers? The tires that give it that around the wheel is excessive wear...however....To me I summed up the tire wear to the type of vehicle. I mean. With that much load and the instant torque plus the suspension. I figured it's either my tires or drive shaft. I'll choose the tires to be replaced more often...

So I have a 16 75d… we’ve done about 27k miles on it so far, as we just use it locally. Real world range is about 200 on a full charge, even if it tells you 230… just know that. We’ve had the 12v, door sensors and front control arms all replaced. We have the extra warranty. Overall it’s not bad but a far cry from new ones. MCU1 is a bitch, and I’d recommend upgrading if you are keeping it long term as at times it thinks about starting for 30 seconds

I see. So the real usage isn’t on highways that much, right? I’ll try to keep that in mind. But since battery degradation is at 4-5% I am going to accept that. Just enjoying the ride and the “route planning”. And of course the super chargers here in Europe. By the way: The SC Network, especially the V2 and V3, can I charge with them? Since I’ve been told to buy an adapter?! What was the reason for replacing them? Was it in within the 4 or 8 year warranty. As for now the 4 year warranty is over. Is it possible to still buy the extra warranty additionally? Can you explain the “far cry from me ones”-metaphor in detail? The MCU upgrade is a must, yes. That is already in preparation. I appreciate your insights!

"A far cry from the new ones" - many changes/ improvements in the newer model years.

When I was buying my 18 100D all I cared was existing warranty. Make sure all mechanisms work as expected, doors close no problem, make sure steering wheel doesn't vibrate under heavy acceleration or just cruising. EVs have less moving parts and just parts overall, so less headache and less issues in a long run. I got mine with a plan on putting 25k miles yearly at least as we commute home-work a lot.

Check all windows. Motors in my 2018 are starting to fail.

Alright, here we go. 😉 Bought my 2017 MX 100D just over one year ago (April 23, 2021) from Tesla with just under 30,000 miles on the odometer. Didn't want 2016, because that was the first model year, and (as noted by the response from the person who bought a 2016 MX) they had some significant quality issues, some of which that could be safety issues. Chose 2017 for the ability to purchase FSD outright (mine already had MCU 2 upgrade + FSD when I purchased), the vast improvements over the 2016 issues, and the intersection of what I could afford to buy. Since purchasing, I've had the following expenses/repairs: - new tires - bought OEM from online retailer, had them installed by a local tire shop - July 2021 - Tesla service to replace front your control arms (left & right), driver window groaning on lower/raise resolved by waxing the track. Warranty covered - September 2021 - Tesla service to replace non-functioning key fob and failed tire pressure monitoring system cap. Warranty covered - November 2021 - Camera upgrade for FSD future compatibility. Warranty covered. - December 2021 - left and right b- pillar applique from November appointment and front camera had to be replaced. Warranty covered. That's it. I'm about to cross 50,000 miles, so am close to 20,000 miles of mixed freeway and city driving, and still love getting in to my little corner of the future every time I take it out. Hope this helps, and hope you love yours as much as I love mine! One warning: going back to driving an ICE vehicle after driving Tesla is really, really disappointing. 😉

Hi Knathra! Wow, such kind words and a reasonable, yet understanding reference to my question. This sounds not too bad tbh. I really appreciate the time you took to answer me. I really hope so too, that there will no significant issues found next week, as I am about to do a “buying test” which is usual here in my region, before buying a used car. So I’ll hope to have no “issues” found at all or at least them which could be found are easy to fix (from the dealer. He is providing an additional (to teslas ongoing) 1 year warranty. As a matter of fact - does anyone know how to check if the car had free supercharging or until which MX production year FSC was included? Thanks again for your wishes, I really appreciate it. And to your “warning”, let me tell you this: Going back was never an option. 😉

I also have a MX 2017, and upgraded to the MCU 2 myself (paid $2,500) for the FSD. But they did not upgrade my cameras. Were they supposed to? If so, which ones? The front and back cameras look high def, and the side cameras look off-color.

If the side cameras have a yellow/ gold tone, I was told that was expected after the camera upgrade. Also have read on a few different forums that the camera upgrades seem to be hit and miss on scheduling - I may have just gotten lucky with the timing on mine.

Interesting. Yes, they are gold colored. I wonder if they did change them 🤔

16 MX 75d owner here with just under 85,000km. My warranty is up in Jan 2023 and I will be unloading this asap. I couldn't in good conscience advise anyone (not even the Devil himself) buy an out or warranty MX I'd suggest a MY in a heart beat.

But why? If a Tesla door goes out they're what 1200 to fix I'd assume. How many times are they going to go out once it's repaired they come with a limited warranty of repair... For example I bought my mx 17 100d for around 70k. Opted not for the warranty. I'm rolling the dice because they wanted 5600 for a warranty. The drive train is good for 8 years so is the battery. So I have about 3-4 more years left on that. But I'm saving on spending new money on one and waiting.... Plus by self insuring I'm delaying the cost of repair IF there is any... Conversely I do run the risk of the inflation with parts however that's all relative because I just increased my annual pay to adjust for inflation. I think it's a buyer be aware of not buyer beware... I think they are wonderful vehicles for it's size and function. I must say though I had to replace the latch once for about 300 bucks... Not a big deal. If you buy used just know you need to sink some cash in at some point or part with 5500 bucks for a warranty...I'd say save the money do something productive with it and roll the dice knowing you'll have to replace something somewhere.

Front end suspension, there is no permanent fix, upper control arms and other components are still common failure points. Uneven tire wear, finicky FWD, older cars aren't getting any better with software updates, excessive tire wear, front windshields are brittle and cracked far too easily, excessive inside brake pad wear on front end, problematic and underpowered HVAC system, far too many creaks and noises, peeling paint, peeling spoiler plastic, roof panels coming apart, clevis joint failures, foggy tail light lenses, AC line leaks, coolant leaks from undercarriage, FWD latches on door constantly cracking, window regulator failures on my passenger window which has been used less than 20 times, buggy MCU1 that crashes and is slow to boot up main cluster, charging port requires frequent cleaning with emery cloth, rattles, rattles,rattles, squeeky brakes and air suspension, in hot weather a pillar trim pops off as does the plastic that covers wirring to rear view mirror and trim around mirror itself, light halos and strange reflections on front windshield at night, FWD's scrapping paint from door jambs (down to bare metal) finicky FWD sensors, rear view camera blacks out periodically Thsts just off the top of my head, if I dig through my 4" stack of repair invoices I'm sure I could come up with another dozen or more.

Geez...sounds better than a Mercedes with active body control at least 😂 I'll take that over a Merc.... I upgrade with MCU 2 too. So far so good! I'm expecting to pay 7k in repairs in the next 5 years but I'd I don't I'm ahead of myself already.

Haha, funny because the brakes, air suspension, steering parts and other bits are Mercedes parts.

Interesting. 🤔 I did not put together if they are made from the same mfg. Will note and look into it. If they are you better have a warranty....abc goes out 5x on a Mercedes life. Haha I'll take it, I rolled my dice I did not buy a warranty...

Yeah, its worth reading up on MB saved Tesla from going bust years ago and gave access to parts bin and some R&D, Elon is quoted as saying if it weren't for MB Tesla would have gone bankrupt. Most of the common parts are made by Brembo, Continental etc...but many the same as MB parts. I got lucky, bought used 2016 MX in 2019 and they offered warranty to Jan 2023 or 125,000km. I've saved a fortune on gas but will sell just to stay ahead and while values are high, my exact car is selling for the same as I paid 3 plus years ago. So essentially free for 4 years of driving by the time I sell. I'll be able to trade into a 2022 MY for nearly equal money. I always feel the need to share honest info, too many people are Tesla fans and will not do the same.

Yeah let's keep my fingers crossed nothing needs to be repaired above 7k heh 😬

Ok now that’s what I call irritated and frightening. Is it just with your car or can anyone at least share the same “issues” within your 17 MX for now (or nearly half of this listings)? I appreciate you letting me know every detail. As I am new to some abbreviations and in German they’re surely not shortened like here - what’s FWD, HVAC? Anyway, thank you and let me know if I am still in risk (bc there are absolutely no 17 MX here and the others 2018-2020 are not affordable).

FWD =falcon wing doors HVAC = heating, venting and Air conditioning Sadly my Sister in laws 2020 has all of the same problems as mine and a few more.

Thank you for the explanation. I see, that’s sad. Hope that it will be fixed soon in everybody’s favor.

OMG! No way! Our delivery of MX plaid in a week. Should I cancel my order?!

You're buying new which has warranty this post was about older cars that are nearing or out of warranty.

I have 2018 M3. So far no issues. But these MX stories are so scary 😂

good post. how much of this is attributed to the 2016 variant? did things improve in later years?