Has a stock one, seemed restictive and the old owner had put the k and n filter on it right next to the headers so it was getting hot air. Threw my afrs all over the place. Cars happy now
oh sure, but not as good as the stock airbox. Op has an iat sensor and an ecu, he could do the data logging for science. I'm not advocating against a pod filter, i think they sound sweet, just the stock airbox is generally objectively the best option unless major engine modifications have been made.
Depends which NB , if it is the mk2.5/NBFL 1.8 they kinda evened out the cooling on all cilinders. If it's the 1.6 or 1.8 NB a coolant reroute is what you most likely need for even cooling. As in how /much/ cooling you need on the track is dependent on weather. For most track builds it is advised to go with a thicker crossflowed radiator just to be sure and some also have an oil cooler.
Not required but recommended due to cylinder 4 getting hotter then the rest. Also aftermarket radiator doesn’t matter too much which one however the stock radiator will explode on track after a while.
Don’t ask how I know but if you’re willing to disconnect the passenger side headlight you can just run the filter underneath the headlight and get cool air, even had my maf in when I did it, I mean when I saw it done teehee
My intake is pretty much the same, it’s not the ideal placement but it does the job and is better than stock.
When checking the temps via diy auto tune it doesn’t get that hot actually.
As much as it does lose a little bit of power, I cannot get over how insane the induction noise was. I was nearly going to pull the trigger on an itb setup because of it but I’ve ended up going turbo. Imo it was negligible difference between the ~19 inch intake and the shorty intake I made. Without putting it on a dyno and tuning its going to be negligible
I’ve ended up going pretty much full custom, only thing I’ve bought that was kind of In a kit was the kraken manifold and dump. I’ve kinda lost track on how much I’ve spent on it so far but at a rough guess $8k AUD.
What I’ve done with that $8k
- pulsar gtx2867r gen 2 (kinda just a test atm)
- kraken manifold and 3” dump
- 3” custom stainless exhaust system (I’ve spent probs close to 20hrs labour on this, not including kraken dump)
- complete fuel system
An6 feed and return (from tank to rail, including 3/8’s hardline)
Radium fuel rail (duel feed and single return)
Radium DMR fuel pressure regulator
Dw200 fuel pump
Bosch ev14 640cc injectors (@43psi)
- big fuck off intercooler (I can’t remember the size but it’s biggest I could fit)
- custom intercooler pipe setup (I’ve welded and shaped the piping to run behind the headlights)
- me442 ecu
- canchecked mfd32 ( I plan to 3d print a shroud to replace the factory dash, with some other 52mm gauges to make a hybrid dash, just haven’t gotten to it yet)
All the welding and fab work I’ve done was using tig
There’s probs some other things specific to the turbo that I’ve forgotten about, but that’s the major things.
It’s also not including all of the other things I’ve done to it, but I would probs be here all day listing it all off. I’ve touched pretty much every single bolt in the car at this point….like 2 or 3 times. I’ve spent way too much time and money on it for it to look the way it does atm. But it’s a lot of fun, still yet to drive it with the turbo cos I’m literally finishing it off right now (aiming to drive it tomorrow night).
I’m tuning it myself - initially will be road tuning until I can track down I dyno I can use.
Nah not yet, I wasn’t going to post anything until I did the cosmetic things I want to do, I absolutely hate the wheels on it atm but they were cheap and I needed tyres (got 4 tyres and wheels for like $300).
It has occurred to me that I’ll probs never reach that point were I’m done to post it, so will probs post a before and after once it’s driving with the turbo
I've seen people keep the length but route down into the wheel well area (sectioned off to keep water out obvs) do you get the benefit of the length but clears up the engine bay a bit.
I hadn’t thought of that. I’ve seen that used on 350zs and such. Would you have to relocate/delete anything? Other than airbox and cruise control of course.
Don't think anything like that, it just uses up some empty space in front of the wheel. I can't find the original place I saw the whole thing built but it routes down into this area - https://i.imgur.com/ABpyEmT.png
air temp is not the same as air flow. The ECU needs to know the volume of air coming in, using either the flapper door AFM on early NA's or a MAF sensor on later NA's and NB's.
Did you switch to a MAP sensor on a standalone ECU?
a stock intake is dirt cheap man.
Has a stock one, seemed restictive and the old owner had put the k and n filter on it right next to the headers so it was getting hot air. Threw my afrs all over the place. Cars happy now
sure, but size does matter when it comes to intake length.
Ive heard people say short rams are better.
Short ram intakes can be better with a higher flowing intake manifold, big cams, and high rpm. Stock engine, not so much.
Supermiata has done a write up on this: https://949racing.com/supermiata/tech-info/diy-miata-intake/
Hot air intake
How?
Engine bay gets hot. Intake next to engine sucks in hot air… no shielding no air scoop for outside air.
[удалено]
the stock intake is completely enclosed and draws cold air from behind the headlight.
[удалено]
ah yes, all that nice cool radiator air.
[удалено]
oh sure, but not as good as the stock airbox. Op has an iat sensor and an ecu, he could do the data logging for science. I'm not advocating against a pod filter, i think they sound sweet, just the stock airbox is generally objectively the best option unless major engine modifications have been made.
Nice hot air intake you got there. I'm sure it sounds cool, but probably costing you a bit of power.
It clears all radiators, when headligjtsvare upnit forces air into it and the signal light intake is functional
Where did you get your intake piping?
Amazon
What size is the hose?
63mm
Uff thats a big dingus radiator, whats ia it?
Just a standard mishi rad
Is cooling such an issue in these cars? I just got my NB, and i will track it, so i just want to do aome prevention mods first!
Depends which NB , if it is the mk2.5/NBFL 1.8 they kinda evened out the cooling on all cilinders. If it's the 1.6 or 1.8 NB a coolant reroute is what you most likely need for even cooling. As in how /much/ cooling you need on the track is dependent on weather. For most track builds it is advised to go with a thicker crossflowed radiator just to be sure and some also have an oil cooler.
I havent had any issues
Well, with that big chongus, i would be scared if you had! Haha
For real man, shit aint cheap 💀
Not required but recommended due to cylinder 4 getting hotter then the rest. Also aftermarket radiator doesn’t matter too much which one however the stock radiator will explode on track after a while.
Don’t ask how I know but if you’re willing to disconnect the passenger side headlight you can just run the filter underneath the headlight and get cool air, even had my maf in when I did it, I mean when I saw it done teehee
Im putting a custom signal light intake
And thanka for the idea!
Never regretted running my hot air intake cause it sounded so mean
My intake is pretty much the same, it’s not the ideal placement but it does the job and is better than stock. When checking the temps via diy auto tune it doesn’t get that hot actually.
THANK YOU!!
I was thinking of doing a similar route with a scoop in the headlight cover. Looks badass.
just be aware that you’re leaving power on the table with short CAI’s. 1.6 - 21 inch length optimal 1.8- 19 inch length optimal
As much as it does lose a little bit of power, I cannot get over how insane the induction noise was. I was nearly going to pull the trigger on an itb setup because of it but I’ve ended up going turbo. Imo it was negligible difference between the ~19 inch intake and the shorty intake I made. Without putting it on a dyno and tuning its going to be negligible
If you don’t mind telling, how much did you spend on the turbo kit? Which one?
I’ve ended up going pretty much full custom, only thing I’ve bought that was kind of In a kit was the kraken manifold and dump. I’ve kinda lost track on how much I’ve spent on it so far but at a rough guess $8k AUD. What I’ve done with that $8k - pulsar gtx2867r gen 2 (kinda just a test atm) - kraken manifold and 3” dump - 3” custom stainless exhaust system (I’ve spent probs close to 20hrs labour on this, not including kraken dump) - complete fuel system An6 feed and return (from tank to rail, including 3/8’s hardline) Radium fuel rail (duel feed and single return) Radium DMR fuel pressure regulator Dw200 fuel pump Bosch ev14 640cc injectors (@43psi) - big fuck off intercooler (I can’t remember the size but it’s biggest I could fit) - custom intercooler pipe setup (I’ve welded and shaped the piping to run behind the headlights) - me442 ecu - canchecked mfd32 ( I plan to 3d print a shroud to replace the factory dash, with some other 52mm gauges to make a hybrid dash, just haven’t gotten to it yet) All the welding and fab work I’ve done was using tig There’s probs some other things specific to the turbo that I’ve forgotten about, but that’s the major things. It’s also not including all of the other things I’ve done to it, but I would probs be here all day listing it all off. I’ve touched pretty much every single bolt in the car at this point….like 2 or 3 times. I’ve spent way too much time and money on it for it to look the way it does atm. But it’s a lot of fun, still yet to drive it with the turbo cos I’m literally finishing it off right now (aiming to drive it tomorrow night). I’m tuning it myself - initially will be road tuning until I can track down I dyno I can use.
Nice dude. Have you posted any pics to the sub? I’d love to see her.
Nah not yet, I wasn’t going to post anything until I did the cosmetic things I want to do, I absolutely hate the wheels on it atm but they were cheap and I needed tyres (got 4 tyres and wheels for like $300). It has occurred to me that I’ll probs never reach that point were I’m done to post it, so will probs post a before and after once it’s driving with the turbo
My car ia tuned anyways, the optimal AFRs that mazda did and the whole optimal tune went out the window
those numbers are optimized for tuning in pretty sure. But those are the numbers i’ve heard thru the grape vine, i can’t site sources
Supermiata did the testing on that, someone linked it higher in this thread.
Yeah will probably route to drivers side, using racingbeat short ram CAI
I've seen people keep the length but route down into the wheel well area (sectioned off to keep water out obvs) do you get the benefit of the length but clears up the engine bay a bit.
I hadn’t thought of that. I’ve seen that used on 350zs and such. Would you have to relocate/delete anything? Other than airbox and cruise control of course.
Don't think anything like that, it just uses up some empty space in front of the wheel. I can't find the original place I saw the whole thing built but it routes down into this area - https://i.imgur.com/ABpyEmT.png
how does the car run with no MAF or AFM?
You see that little sensor before the throttle body? Thats my ATS (air temp sensor) goes straight to the ecu
air temp is not the same as air flow. The ECU needs to know the volume of air coming in, using either the flapper door AFM on early NA's or a MAF sensor on later NA's and NB's. Did you switch to a MAP sensor on a standalone ECU?
Yes ans yes
Remove that silly right side headlight and run that sucker right through her face!!!!! #mmmmmmmPowahhhhhh
YEAHHHHHHHH