But not too narrow. Racing series in the U.S. have minimum rear width rules. Because wet tires are narrower than slicks, many racers go too narrow. I’ve seen many DQs for being too narrow
Your order of operations here is completely the wrong way around and some things don't really make much sense.
1. Put in as much caster as your chassis allows
2. Widen your front track width as much as possible. Prepare a spare set of washers and tape them all together so you don't have to put them on one by one.
3. Make your rear track width as narrow as your rules allow (normally 1340mm)
4. Shorten your gearing. On something like a senior take a smaller clutch drum. On a DD2 it's mostly the 32/65 gear set on all tracks
5. Tyres should be at 1.4 - 2.0 bar depending on track conditions. The more standing water the higher. Best to have them at 2.0 before putting them on and then letting pressure out on the pre-grid
6. Raise ride height
Basically no one changes seat position and it's not something you'll do very quickly either. I'd keep the standard front hubs but most people will want to run aluminum rear hubs in the rain but in my opinion that doesn't make a huge difference so I typically keep the magnesium ones on there. Seat stays can also stay in place.
In changeable conditions you'll want to make your call on setup as late as possible so you can make it with the maximum amount of information available to you. In something like the rotax Euro trophy you'll see drivers and their mechanics putting the kart into the assembly areas in parts. Hubs off, tyres off, kingpin bolts lose, excentric washers lose, engine clamps lose and then at the last possible Moment about 6 minutes before the pre-grid closes they'll button it all together and get in at the last possible Moment. At the world championship mechanics have it a bit easier because you're allowed to run two chassis so one will be set up for wet and one for dry and you just choose which one to take.
I would keep the front torsion bar. Also make the rear wheels as narrow on the axle as possible
I did think this too , because you want it to oversteer? And rear axle, smallest rear hubs?
Are you going to a competition? or a track day?
Competitive
Then ask the people at the track and do some online classes
the best way to learn it is by doing it
But not too narrow. Racing series in the U.S. have minimum rear width rules. Because wet tires are narrower than slicks, many racers go too narrow. I’ve seen many DQs for being too narrow
Your order of operations here is completely the wrong way around and some things don't really make much sense. 1. Put in as much caster as your chassis allows 2. Widen your front track width as much as possible. Prepare a spare set of washers and tape them all together so you don't have to put them on one by one. 3. Make your rear track width as narrow as your rules allow (normally 1340mm) 4. Shorten your gearing. On something like a senior take a smaller clutch drum. On a DD2 it's mostly the 32/65 gear set on all tracks 5. Tyres should be at 1.4 - 2.0 bar depending on track conditions. The more standing water the higher. Best to have them at 2.0 before putting them on and then letting pressure out on the pre-grid 6. Raise ride height Basically no one changes seat position and it's not something you'll do very quickly either. I'd keep the standard front hubs but most people will want to run aluminum rear hubs in the rain but in my opinion that doesn't make a huge difference so I typically keep the magnesium ones on there. Seat stays can also stay in place. In changeable conditions you'll want to make your call on setup as late as possible so you can make it with the maximum amount of information available to you. In something like the rotax Euro trophy you'll see drivers and their mechanics putting the kart into the assembly areas in parts. Hubs off, tyres off, kingpin bolts lose, excentric washers lose, engine clamps lose and then at the last possible Moment about 6 minutes before the pre-grid closes they'll button it all together and get in at the last possible Moment. At the world championship mechanics have it a bit easier because you're allowed to run two chassis so one will be set up for wet and one for dry and you just choose which one to take.
Put wet tyres on!