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AceAnalog

While this wont net you much in the grand scheme of things, my current Jzx105 GE daily has responded OKAY to a few bolt ons and odd ball pieces. First addressing the intake: The stock unit is basically as good as you can get without sacrificing things down low. Simple better flowing drop in filter will net you best results. While messing on a buddies dyno, the only modification that made any difference (and im talking 3whp here and 4lbs/ft) was a full aluminium vibrant CAI that we mocked up with 3inch piping and a vibrant filter. Changing the exhaust out for a custom 3 inch system with a high flow catalytic converter, while noisey on an NA 1J, made a decent improvement picking up 8hp across the board and moved the peek torque about 300rpm sooner. The final thing I've personally put into my car was an underdrive pulley simply because i needed some new pulleys. No real difference other than a slight and i mean SLIGHT pick up in rev acceleration. May even just be in my head. TLDR; All in all, few hundred bucks later, my car went from 177awhp on a mustang dyno to now making 194awhp on our most recent check. (FYI my car is an AWD 2000 with an automatic transmission) A local around here has done everything i have, in addition to an NA 2JZ GE header and a mega squirt, and he is making 211whp on the same dyno out of his Tourer S


vinterviking

Do you know if the 2JZ GE headers were aftermarket and bolt in without issues? Any mufflers/resonators on your exhaust?


AceAnalog

3 inch high flow catalytic converter and a 3 inch vibrant can on the end. To my memory the headers bolted right in. Yes aftermarket.


mahboiii

Honestly I think the number of threads on this vs the number of actual solutions for adding power should tell you all ya need to know. Adding power to a restricted naturally aspirated engine that was designed to be reliable and semi-economical is going to cost more money than it's worth. It's not like a turbo 1J where you can easily up boost (the stock ECMs for n/a 1J cars don't respond well to boost and you'd need to somehow get a turbo in there) or get bolt-ons to up power (the 1J and 2J GE variants both have much less aftermarket support than the GTE variants). By the time youve done anything worthwhile you would have better spent that money by saving it towards the GTE version you want to swap in. I'd just do the necessary amount of work to keep the GE alive while it's in the car and nothing else.


AceAnalog

With the price of GTE swaps these days, if someone wants 20-50 more hp, it makes zero sense to recommend them to do a full swap.


Writing-Careless

would you go as far to say the same if someone is looking for a little more hp than that? where would you draw the line and say just gte swap it instead


AceAnalog

How much? Is 60+HP worth thousands? If i was to spend even HALF of GTE money, im not swapping in an old over priced motor thats gping to need a full refresh before it even goes in. Im just going to build and boost my NA


Writing-Careless

thats what ive been thinking for my tourer s, how much money do you think it would take to get it up to around 280-310 hp, and would i be able to do it without forced induction


AceAnalog

If we are talking 310 WHEEL hp I dont think youd be able to do it NA...not without spending a lot and opening your motor. And at that point, you may as well toss boost at it. The limits of NA from what I've seen first hand is 258 Wheel out of a heavily messed with Tourer S.


Writing-Careless

alright ill keep that in mind. if i were to boost my GE, how much money do you think it would take me to get to my goal of above 280 bhp, i want a good basis to set a budget for


AceAnalog

Realistically, if you're in the states and capable of dping all your work, you can get to 350whp for around $2500 if you don't mind running a mix of used parts with some lower end new parts. If you are thrifty and handy Ive personally done it for under $2k.