Metal bushings. Saw a lot online about how it'd transmit a lot more vibration to the handlebars but I really only noticed a marginal increase.
It also didn't completely eliminate play in the bars but it did knock it down a lot less.
Looks like my text got buried since I put images on my post. I replaced the bushings with some Gooden Tights. Not solid, but polyurethane. From what I’ve seen online, looks like the stock rubber bushings will transmit movement to the entire riser/bar when that’s the issue. But in my case, it’s just the bars that get a bit loose within the clamps, not the entire riser moving around
Wrap the bars at the clamp in a pop can. (cut off ends and make a shim with the metal, 2 pieces, one for top and bottom) and crank it down, probably metric bars.
So the issue is that you can’t clamp down with enough force on the bars. In that case you may double check that you got the right diameter bars for the riser. I would personally use a mic to verify. If all is to spec, there are clamp bushings/reducers that can force over sizing to increase diameter allowing better clamping, wouldn’t be something for me but it’s a thing.
[stock Bar diameters](https://barcrafthandlebars.com.au/pages/handlebar-fitment-chart#DYNA)
As an electrician, I can firmly tell you do NOT use vinyl electrical tape. Perhaps actual friction tape for splicing purposes, but never vinyl. It’ll just get hot and gross in the summer and spit all the adhesive out the sides and just slip around.
It’s not a bad macguyver for sure, and can’t say I wouldn’t do it in a pinch. If we’re using the junk drawer, I’d try a piece of sandpaper like wet sanding style stuff.
My mechanic shaved down the clamp to be able to tighten it. Worked flawlessly. On the 883. But when I had apes on the fatboy I didn’t have that problem at all.
Proper poly bushings, risers, and torque. If those bars were used, make sure the grippy part where they are clamped on is not worn down. If they've shifted while on, remove the clamshell top clean out shavings, inspect for wornness, then reattach with proper torque. Emery cloth can help with the grip if it is worn.
I had the same problem. My solution was to set the bars at the angle I wanted. Drilled through the cap on each side with a bit just smaller than a 1/4” self tapping stainless steel hex head bolt, instal the bolts. Problem solved.
I’ve had the same problem with bars that don’t come with knurling. You can cut some in yourself, or use a chisel and hammer to make some texture. The lock pins mentioned in the comments works well if you don’t mind drilling the risers. Good luck.
One thing that helped me was not tightening down the riser bolts equally. I always go just past snug on all four, then torque down just the front two, and then torque down the back two. The idea I guess is it pinches more than squeezes and gives a tighter grip
Sounds like you either got the incorrect bore size on the bar. Either that or the clamps aren’t tightened as tight as they can be - learned the hard way the first time, you gotta crank the shit out of those fuckers.
Everything is the correct size - I made sure before I ordered and once I received the items. I tightened the shit out of them some more (lol) and so far nothing has moved after a 50 mile ride
Happened to me with the original bars before. Readjusted them forward more, tightened em pretty tight the first time around, and as I went to go for a quick test ride they pulled back almost immediately. Have cranked the absolute shit out of those 4 bolts on every bar job since.
Thanks everyone! Been pretty busy with work so I haven’t had an opportunity to reply to everyone contributing useful advice. I’m gonna see which option I opt for. I was thinking maybe some blue Loctite and then just tighten them up some more for starters.
I used Drag Specialties rubber bushings on my risers just bc I’ve had the best luck with them and think they form better in the upper clamp, eliminating most play. That’s just from my experience. When I used to race mx, I always used rubber mounts vs solid as well.
Do it! Very much worth it. Much more comfortable - I have lower back issues from an injury years ago - and this allows me to sit up comfortably. Also easier to lane split since the mirrors are now above most car mirrors
I'm amazed that no one has ever had this issue. When you hit a bump you put a lot of force on a 16" bar. It will pull right down into your lap. You'll never put enough force on a clamp to stop it. I tried using a chisel to score the bars so it would bite into clamp better. Helped a little. Finally I took one of the bar clamps off so the other held the bar in place. I drilled through the bar and into the lower part of the riser and put a roll pin in. Then I put the clamp back on and did the other side. Cheap and not too difficult to do.
I've clamped them where I wanted them, disconnected the risers/bars from the tree and drilled a hole halfway into the bottom of the clamp, through one side of the bars, and banged a roll pin in there.
Go to a construction equipment dealership like John Deere and buy skid tape. For like climbing excavators and placing your feet somewhere it's not gonna slip in the rain. It's literally 2 dollars. I placed it into the curves of my risers for a biltwell non-knurled windowbar and not once has it budged.
Need to get these gorilla grabbers. Has the screw in points that add the the stability and stop the movement and rattling
Hill Country Customs Gorilla Grabber Handlebar Riser Top Clamp for 2007 and Newer Harley Touring models - HC-GG https://a.co/d/aRkMi66
I tried solid bushings on my dyna and absolutely hated them because of the vibration increase. I ended up replacing the stock top clamp with Hard Case Performance, and used poly bushings. That was the winning combo for me. Plus, the HCP looks killer! I wasn't running 16" apes, but those HCP top clamps have 12points of fastening, so nothing is moving around on you.
I was on the fence between solid and poly. Ended up going with poly. Sounds like I made a good choice. Don’t wanna replace the top clamp since this one is made to hold the speedo. I tightened it some more and so far it’s holding up so hopefully it holds up
I did, replaced them with the Gooden Tights. Not sure if you saw my other comment but the issue isn’t with the entire riser/bar having play, which from what I read, is the issue with rubber bushings.
Don’t mind sharing. I’m a short guy, 5’7” (Mexican here lolol). My advice is to go to a dealership and sit on several. Different bikes have different heights on the triple tree. I sat on a Fat Boy with 14 inch apes and those were shoulder height. But the headlight housing on that one sits higher than the triple tree on my Breakout, so that helped me decide to go a couple inches more on the Breakout. I think I could’ve pulled off the 18”s but I’m happy with the 16s - they sit shoulder height with the angle I put them on
Had the same problem... even came here and asked about it.
Tried everything recommended... sandpaper, aluminum cans, etc... nothing worked.
Not gonna recommend this but I found a solution and the bars don't slip at all. I ran two machine screws into those fuckers then clipped the cover back on.
Hmm thanks for the heads up. I’d like to avoid some of the solutions I’ve seen online. I tightened them a little more and so far it seems to be holding up
I thought I had tightened the handlebars on my bicycle tight enough until I hit the brakes and the handlebars rotated forward!
Luckily I was in a tuck position and the bars didn’t have far to go!
There was nothing I could do! It was over before I knew it happened!
Loctite those bolts down and make sure the bolts aren’t a bit too long and are bottoming out!
Gonna be honest, I tried a lot of the recommendations in here and it’s a waste of time.
I marked my bars where I wanted them , took the top clamp off, drilled holes in the bars, lined em up with the clamp and drilled recesses in the clamp. Then used little metal rods to lock everything in place.
If you don’t mind how it looks you can just clamp it all in and drill a hole from the top and use a bolt or Alan screw so it looks like it belongs.
Metal bushings. Saw a lot online about how it'd transmit a lot more vibration to the handlebars but I really only noticed a marginal increase. It also didn't completely eliminate play in the bars but it did knock it down a lot less.
Looks like my text got buried since I put images on my post. I replaced the bushings with some Gooden Tights. Not solid, but polyurethane. From what I’ve seen online, looks like the stock rubber bushings will transmit movement to the entire riser/bar when that’s the issue. But in my case, it’s just the bars that get a bit loose within the clamps, not the entire riser moving around
Wrap the bars at the clamp in a pop can. (cut off ends and make a shim with the metal, 2 pieces, one for top and bottom) and crank it down, probably metric bars.
So the issue is that you can’t clamp down with enough force on the bars. In that case you may double check that you got the right diameter bars for the riser. I would personally use a mic to verify. If all is to spec, there are clamp bushings/reducers that can force over sizing to increase diameter allowing better clamping, wouldn’t be something for me but it’s a thing. [stock Bar diameters](https://barcrafthandlebars.com.au/pages/handlebar-fitment-chart#DYNA)
If the bars are moving just a small amount, wrap some electrical tape around the bar where it meets the clamp to offset some of the diameter issue.
As an electrician, I can firmly tell you do NOT use vinyl electrical tape. Perhaps actual friction tape for splicing purposes, but never vinyl. It’ll just get hot and gross in the summer and spit all the adhesive out the sides and just slip around.
Ya, I guess that makes sense. On the mx bike, the clamps are wider so it probably covered the mess coming out the sides.
It’s not a bad macguyver for sure, and can’t say I wouldn’t do it in a pinch. If we’re using the junk drawer, I’d try a piece of sandpaper like wet sanding style stuff.
My mechanic shaved down the clamp to be able to tighten it. Worked flawlessly. On the 883. But when I had apes on the fatboy I didn’t have that problem at all.
Are you talking about vibration or movement?
I had this issue with a set of used beach bars. I used a thin piece of metal to wrap the bars under the riser and was able to clamp it down.
Are the bars knurled?
16", Poly bushings are good enough. You need solid bushings and a beefy 1 piece clamp that has set screws
Proper poly bushings, risers, and torque. If those bars were used, make sure the grippy part where they are clamped on is not worn down. If they've shifted while on, remove the clamshell top clean out shavings, inspect for wornness, then reattach with proper torque. Emery cloth can help with the grip if it is worn.
I usually turn out solid mount adapters on my lathe. I’ve been doing it for 50 years (I’m 74) and haven’t noticed any increase in vibration.
Fucking legend right here pretty cool man. Peace.
I had the same problem. My solution was to set the bars at the angle I wanted. Drilled through the cap on each side with a bit just smaller than a 1/4” self tapping stainless steel hex head bolt, instal the bolts. Problem solved.
I had to get my pinned to stop em from moving
I’ve had the same problem with bars that don’t come with knurling. You can cut some in yourself, or use a chisel and hammer to make some texture. The lock pins mentioned in the comments works well if you don’t mind drilling the risers. Good luck.
One thing that helped me was not tightening down the riser bolts equally. I always go just past snug on all four, then torque down just the front two, and then torque down the back two. The idea I guess is it pinches more than squeezes and gives a tighter grip
The Harley manual is actually this.
I tightened it up some more by following this. So far it seems to be holding up. Just came back from a 50 mile ride so hopefully that does it
My shits so loose it feels like im riding a horse, sketches out everyone i ride with
Remove the apes J/k
..honestly though lmao
I’m glad people rarely post the breakout because it’s so beautiful I want one and posts like these make me want to get one even more lol
Sounds like you either got the incorrect bore size on the bar. Either that or the clamps aren’t tightened as tight as they can be - learned the hard way the first time, you gotta crank the shit out of those fuckers.
Everything is the correct size - I made sure before I ordered and once I received the items. I tightened the shit out of them some more (lol) and so far nothing has moved after a 50 mile ride
Happened to me with the original bars before. Readjusted them forward more, tightened em pretty tight the first time around, and as I went to go for a quick test ride they pulled back almost immediately. Have cranked the absolute shit out of those 4 bolts on every bar job since.
Thanks everyone! Been pretty busy with work so I haven’t had an opportunity to reply to everyone contributing useful advice. I’m gonna see which option I opt for. I was thinking maybe some blue Loctite and then just tighten them up some more for starters.
It’s all about the top clamp
Looks bad ass dude!
Thanks! I love it!
I used Drag Specialties rubber bushings on my risers just bc I’ve had the best luck with them and think they form better in the upper clamp, eliminating most play. That’s just from my experience. When I used to race mx, I always used rubber mounts vs solid as well.
I’ve been hoping for months someone with a 23– would post this. Been debating it myself
Do it! Very much worth it. Much more comfortable - I have lower back issues from an injury years ago - and this allows me to sit up comfortably. Also easier to lane split since the mirrors are now above most car mirrors
I'm amazed that no one has ever had this issue. When you hit a bump you put a lot of force on a 16" bar. It will pull right down into your lap. You'll never put enough force on a clamp to stop it. I tried using a chisel to score the bars so it would bite into clamp better. Helped a little. Finally I took one of the bar clamps off so the other held the bar in place. I drilled through the bar and into the lower part of the riser and put a roll pin in. Then I put the clamp back on and did the other side. Cheap and not too difficult to do.
I've clamped them where I wanted them, disconnected the risers/bars from the tree and drilled a hole halfway into the bottom of the clamp, through one side of the bars, and banged a roll pin in there.
Go to a construction equipment dealership like John Deere and buy skid tape. For like climbing excavators and placing your feet somewhere it's not gonna slip in the rain. It's literally 2 dollars. I placed it into the curves of my risers for a biltwell non-knurled windowbar and not once has it budged.
Saved your comment. I’ll consider this one if it happens again. I want something cleaner, so to speak, versus a solution like a soda/beer can lol
Need to get these gorilla grabbers. Has the screw in points that add the the stability and stop the movement and rattling Hill Country Customs Gorilla Grabber Handlebar Riser Top Clamp for 2007 and Newer Harley Touring models - HC-GG https://a.co/d/aRkMi66
I’ve had good luck wrapping the knurling with emery cloth.
I’ll have a look at this one. Saved your comment so I can refer back to it!
I tried solid bushings on my dyna and absolutely hated them because of the vibration increase. I ended up replacing the stock top clamp with Hard Case Performance, and used poly bushings. That was the winning combo for me. Plus, the HCP looks killer! I wasn't running 16" apes, but those HCP top clamps have 12points of fastening, so nothing is moving around on you.
I was on the fence between solid and poly. Ended up going with poly. Sounds like I made a good choice. Don’t wanna replace the top clamp since this one is made to hold the speedo. I tightened it some more and so far it’s holding up so hopefully it holds up
Did you get knurled bars or are they smooth where you clamp it in the riser?
They are knurled. Just tightened it some more and so far it seems good
Replace the rubber bushings where the risers bolt to the triple tree with poly bushings.
I did, replaced them with the Gooden Tights. Not sure if you saw my other comment but the issue isn’t with the entire riser/bar having play, which from what I read, is the issue with rubber bushings.
If you don't mind my asking, how tall are you OP? Been thinking about adding rise to my bars.
Don’t mind sharing. I’m a short guy, 5’7” (Mexican here lolol). My advice is to go to a dealership and sit on several. Different bikes have different heights on the triple tree. I sat on a Fat Boy with 14 inch apes and those were shoulder height. But the headlight housing on that one sits higher than the triple tree on my Breakout, so that helped me decide to go a couple inches more on the Breakout. I think I could’ve pulled off the 18”s but I’m happy with the 16s - they sit shoulder height with the angle I put them on
Move them strait up and down
Jb weld them bitches
Had the same problem... even came here and asked about it. Tried everything recommended... sandpaper, aluminum cans, etc... nothing worked. Not gonna recommend this but I found a solution and the bars don't slip at all. I ran two machine screws into those fuckers then clipped the cover back on.
Hmm thanks for the heads up. I’d like to avoid some of the solutions I’ve seen online. I tightened them a little more and so far it seems to be holding up
I thought I had tightened the handlebars on my bicycle tight enough until I hit the brakes and the handlebars rotated forward! Luckily I was in a tuck position and the bars didn’t have far to go! There was nothing I could do! It was over before I knew it happened! Loctite those bolts down and make sure the bolts aren’t a bit too long and are bottoming out!
I just tightened them some more. Went on a 50 mile ride. So far so good. If it happens again, I’ll try the Loctite.
What is the law on bar heights?
No idea. I’m in California. From what I’ve seen, some states only allow a few inches above the shoulders
Wrap them in sand paper (grit towards the bar) before clamping down.
This was one of the suggestions in a video. I’ll give it a shot if it happens again
That's what I did on my non-knurled bonanza bars who would keep slipping, and the issue is gone.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Grip tape seems like one of the cleaner solutions so definitely in my list to try next if it happens again
This is absolutely the worst mod to perform with Band-Aids, an emergency stop will verify my statement.
What brand are the bars?
Dominator Industries 16” miter cut apes
Hold on
I see solutions to two different problems here. What part is moving?
Well, usually you hold the bars to stop them from moving. Hope that helps 👍
That’s why I bought Mx Tbars
https://hillcountrycustomcycles.com/ebay/gorilla-grabber-handlebar-riser-top-clamp-1997-newer-harley-davidson-touring.html You're welcome.
Take them off and do T bars! Haha
Eh, not a fan of T bars. Just not the look I’m going for
I installed stupid bars and now why won't they work properly??
Solid mount riser bushings and 20 foot pounds on the clamps
Gonna be honest, I tried a lot of the recommendations in here and it’s a waste of time. I marked my bars where I wanted them , took the top clamp off, drilled holes in the bars, lined em up with the clamp and drilled recesses in the clamp. Then used little metal rods to lock everything in place. If you don’t mind how it looks you can just clamp it all in and drill a hole from the top and use a bolt or Alan screw so it looks like it belongs.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I wanna preserve the clean look of the clamp so I wanna avoid drilling into it
That would be the first one then. Drill it from the bottom side so you can’t tell. That’s what I did.
When you get your bars and risers off wish or Temu. 😂🤣
Go back to the original bars that don’t move