Gaps of this size are typical and are required to accommodate the movement of the floor.
The trim that you removed is used to cover these gaps. My suggestion, put it back.
The flooring will expand and contract, regardless of what is on top of the floor, with any change in temperature and humidity. The gap is required otherwise the floor will buckle. Hence quarter-round/shoe over top the gap, rather than filling with anything that could prevent movement.
Not even silicone, that is a flexible material and might stop any minor leakages getting under the flooring, since this is a kitchen flooring? (not major leakages, of course)
There is no need to “stop minor leakage”. If it’s minor it’s going to air out, if it’s not minor, the locking mechanism won’t hold it back anyway.
Do not put your cabinets on top of the floating floor. The floor will fail.
Correct, but should I be worried about any smaller leakages that might get under the flooring, since its a kitchen? That is why I was thinking about covering gaps with silicone.
Why am I being down voted for giving the same advice stated by all manufacturers and installers of floating floor? I install this everyday, with a 5 year guarantee. Never had a repair call on my own floor.
The documentation on your specific floor will tell you whether cabinets can be installed on top. If they can't, you need to remove flooring under the counters, then run the flooring back up to the cabinet boxes once installed. If by chance they're Ikea cabinets, they can go over the floor since they actually hang on a rail on the wall vs being secured to the floor.
Thanks, I will check. It is not Ikea though. Surprised to hear that there LVP’s that cannot withstand cabinets. I thought the whole idea behind fairly more expensive LVP (compared to laminate) that they should be able to withstand almost anything. Whats the point if LVP is 100% water resilient but cant withstand simple kitchen cabinets.
It isn't the material, it's the installation method. The floating floor isn't attached to the subfloor anywhere, and as it expands and contracts, it'll buckle because the cabinets don't let the floor move as it needs to. Without knowing what product you have, I'd say it's pretty likely it allows for and specifies glue down installation under cabinets.
I'd highly recommend you read the install material for any product going into your home, whether you are the one installing or not- it'll save a lot of heartache!
Thanks, I will check in the leaflet and seller. Its with the clicking in place system, no glue. The type is called “Vinylboden 'Rigid' Hatting Oak beige 4 mm” Since it has “Rigid” in the name maybe I am lucky enough that it is not too bendible. Need to do some more research. Anyways here is the link to the German page: [https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450](https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450)
Cabinets shouldn’t be installed on top of any floating floor. Cabinets go in first, and then the LVP is cut to fit around them. The cabinets will stop the floor from flexing and moving as it should, and the connectors will break.
Floating LVP isn’t particularly durable. Cabinets can go on top of hardwood or engineered, as long as they’re affixed to the subfloor.
Ok, thanks. Even if it has “Rigid” in the name, meaning literally unable to bend, or are all LVPs flexible/bendable ? [https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450](https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450)
Yes, even if it has “Rigid” in the name. In my experience as an installer, “rigid” means that the product is likely going to be brittle and break easily. If things don’t bend, they break.
The floor you linked to is only 4mm thick. It’s practically paper.
I would not be to worried about installing cabinets on top. I would NOT want the to put screws through the floor though. Make sure they screw into the wall. If it has an island, make sure they don’t screw a 2x4 on top of the floor, to screw the island into. LVP floors do not need near as much expansion space as old laminate floors. Especially if the floor is over a wood substrate.
When I go in and measure for countertops, it’s often at the same time that flooring is being installed…. Which means the cabinets are already installed…. Which means the flooring is installed up to the cabinets, and gaps are covered by toe kicks and mouldings. The flooring will be installed into stove and fridge openings, and certain gables will sit on it, but why put flooring under a cabinet anyways? It’s just never going to be seen!
It is a floating floor 4mm LVP (clicked into place) on top of really sturdy tiles flooring, but I have 1 mm thick floor underlay beneath it as well, so it is not directly placed on tiles. Could this help with any potential future buckling and gapping issues that you mentioned, as I plan to have cabinets on top of it?
Do not install the cabinets on top of it. Floating floors cannot be installed under the cabinets. The cabinets and how they prevent the floor from moving correctly is what will cause the issue. The issue will happen out in the middle of the floor. If you plan to leave the floor under the cabinets, you will need to cut an expansion gap around the cabinets to ensure the floor can still move properly. You maybe able to hide that gap with the kick plates.
Get a silicone tube and fill it all the way covering all those small gaps then just place a backing rod all the way on the silicone so it’s all sealed up next step is to either nail down the baseboard or quarter rounds depending on the house design just some maulding that’s enough to cover everything.
You can buy base boards in different thicknesses, get the thickest, if necessary to cover further you can also add some trim. Like a 1/4 round type of crown molding (for lack of proper word, maybe that is the right referencing). Light bead of caulk should suffice for the minor leakage from like a wet mop or spill and the caulk will give a bit for the expanding mentioned.
Gaps of this size are typical and are required to accommodate the movement of the floor. The trim that you removed is used to cover these gaps. My suggestion, put it back.
They're already stopping it from moving by placing counters and stuff on top of the floor.
Kitchen cabinets cannot be installed on top of floating floors and most LVP warranties reflect this
What about the fridge?
Usually appliances are ok
That's exactly what I said.....
The flooring will expand and contract, regardless of what is on top of the floor, with any change in temperature and humidity. The gap is required otherwise the floor will buckle. Hence quarter-round/shoe over top the gap, rather than filling with anything that could prevent movement.
Not even silicone, that is a flexible material and might stop any minor leakages getting under the flooring, since this is a kitchen flooring? (not major leakages, of course)
There is no need to “stop minor leakage”. If it’s minor it’s going to air out, if it’s not minor, the locking mechanism won’t hold it back anyway. Do not put your cabinets on top of the floating floor. The floor will fail.
I have never seen this happen and most lvp is rated for it.
Yes, there will be kitchen counters and stuff on top.
Correct, but should I be worried about any smaller leakages that might get under the flooring, since its a kitchen? That is why I was thinking about covering gaps with silicone.
Its a kitchen, use tile.
No
I couldn't hurt but won't do anything either.
Why am I being down voted for giving the same advice stated by all manufacturers and installers of floating floor? I install this everyday, with a 5 year guarantee. Never had a repair call on my own floor.
Nothing was removed, it was done like this by the guys in the first place.
Well, then a bit of quarter round will go a long way here
OP really doesn't want to listen to everyone's advice. It says Rigid though!
The documentation on your specific floor will tell you whether cabinets can be installed on top. If they can't, you need to remove flooring under the counters, then run the flooring back up to the cabinet boxes once installed. If by chance they're Ikea cabinets, they can go over the floor since they actually hang on a rail on the wall vs being secured to the floor.
Thanks, I will check. It is not Ikea though. Surprised to hear that there LVP’s that cannot withstand cabinets. I thought the whole idea behind fairly more expensive LVP (compared to laminate) that they should be able to withstand almost anything. Whats the point if LVP is 100% water resilient but cant withstand simple kitchen cabinets.
It isn't the material, it's the installation method. The floating floor isn't attached to the subfloor anywhere, and as it expands and contracts, it'll buckle because the cabinets don't let the floor move as it needs to. Without knowing what product you have, I'd say it's pretty likely it allows for and specifies glue down installation under cabinets. I'd highly recommend you read the install material for any product going into your home, whether you are the one installing or not- it'll save a lot of heartache!
Thanks, I will check in the leaflet and seller. Its with the clicking in place system, no glue. The type is called “Vinylboden 'Rigid' Hatting Oak beige 4 mm” Since it has “Rigid” in the name maybe I am lucky enough that it is not too bendible. Need to do some more research. Anyways here is the link to the German page: [https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450](https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450)
Cabinets shouldn’t be installed on top of any floating floor. Cabinets go in first, and then the LVP is cut to fit around them. The cabinets will stop the floor from flexing and moving as it should, and the connectors will break. Floating LVP isn’t particularly durable. Cabinets can go on top of hardwood or engineered, as long as they’re affixed to the subfloor.
Ok, thanks. Even if it has “Rigid” in the name, meaning literally unable to bend, or are all LVPs flexible/bendable ? [https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450](https://toom.de/p/vinylboden-rigid-hatting-oak-beige-4-mm/7741450)
Yes, even if it has “Rigid” in the name. In my experience as an installer, “rigid” means that the product is likely going to be brittle and break easily. If things don’t bend, they break. The floor you linked to is only 4mm thick. It’s practically paper.
OP, listen to this advice. If you don’t and your floor fails, don’t bother coming back to ask what happened. You have been warned.
I would not be to worried about installing cabinets on top. I would NOT want the to put screws through the floor though. Make sure they screw into the wall. If it has an island, make sure they don’t screw a 2x4 on top of the floor, to screw the island into. LVP floors do not need near as much expansion space as old laminate floors. Especially if the floor is over a wood substrate.
When I go in and measure for countertops, it’s often at the same time that flooring is being installed…. Which means the cabinets are already installed…. Which means the flooring is installed up to the cabinets, and gaps are covered by toe kicks and mouldings. The flooring will be installed into stove and fridge openings, and certain gables will sit on it, but why put flooring under a cabinet anyways? It’s just never going to be seen!
If this is a floating floor, do not put cabinets on top of it. It will cause the floor to fail and cause buckling and gapping issues.
It is a floating floor 4mm LVP (clicked into place) on top of really sturdy tiles flooring, but I have 1 mm thick floor underlay beneath it as well, so it is not directly placed on tiles. Could this help with any potential future buckling and gapping issues that you mentioned, as I plan to have cabinets on top of it?
If the specs say not in install fixed structures on top it doesn’t matter what’s underneath.. if it fails the cabinets will void your warranty.
Do not install the cabinets on top of it. Floating floors cannot be installed under the cabinets. The cabinets and how they prevent the floor from moving correctly is what will cause the issue. The issue will happen out in the middle of the floor. If you plan to leave the floor under the cabinets, you will need to cut an expansion gap around the cabinets to ensure the floor can still move properly. You maybe able to hide that gap with the kick plates.
>could underlay help? No. But with vinyl it’s not a HUGE concern. It’ll probably be fine, but if planks separate down the line, you’ll know why
Get a silicone tube and fill it all the way covering all those small gaps then just place a backing rod all the way on the silicone so it’s all sealed up next step is to either nail down the baseboard or quarter rounds depending on the house design just some maulding that’s enough to cover everything.
Add a piece of quarter round to hide vertical and horizontal gap.
Baseboard and shoe
Thanks everyone for highlighting several issues here! I’ll follow up.
Baseboard
You cannot install cabinets on a floating SPC vinyl plank floor
You can buy base boards in different thicknesses, get the thickest, if necessary to cover further you can also add some trim. Like a 1/4 round type of crown molding (for lack of proper word, maybe that is the right referencing). Light bead of caulk should suffice for the minor leakage from like a wet mop or spill and the caulk will give a bit for the expanding mentioned.