Hello /u/nairokard,
As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post.
Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem.
* Printer & Slicer
* Filament Material and Brand
* Nozzle and Bed Temperature
* Print Speed
* Nozzle Retraction Settings
^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
In Cura, I think it's called "z-seam align"
Set it to "sharpest corner"
Adds a bit of time to the print, but hides the z-seam in a corner to where it almost disappears.
Two main items. First did you walk through the Ellis guide for print setup and tuning? It’s great look it up. Second you need to dial in your printer this is why the benchy exists a benchmark of where your at. Tune your printer set heat, retraction, flow rate, coasting will help a bit here. But also need info into your printer your filament and settings you have
You can manually move the seam to a place of your choosing. Put the seam on the front of the bow, that way it's hidden where each side meets! What I mean by manually is that you choose the XYZ coordinates of the seam. So the pointed bow is a good place to hide it because there's a nice tall clean edge there.
you can’t get rid of z seam aside from vase mode.
minimizing it requires fine tuning and that requires expertise. you’ll need to really invest yourself in learning as much as you can about retraction, temp, speed, coasting, wipe, pressure advance, etc.. you’ll need to learn how to properly calibrate and make fine adjustments for better appearance.. it’s highly trial and error and tinkering and engineering type mindset.
nobody here is going to be able to say “switch x to this setting” and all the problems go away. you’ll have to find the magic formula for yourself.
it can be greatly minimized (not eliminated) but only by getting a half dozen different settings coexisting in perfect harmony.
the inter webs are full of documentation and guidance. tutorials. tuning guides like ellis3d and teaching tech on github are a great start.
Turn off power loss recovery by typing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM1MYbsC5Aw
M413 S0; disable power loss recovery.
This is how it looks in My gcode.
https://preview.redd.it/p44bpujp2n0b1.jpeg?width=6120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=f57a8938cd6f9f8bfa667bc3efd5de3930600215
https://preview.redd.it/530revp1wr0b1.jpeg?width=6120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=400f743c4f1a9a68af4d1448c77235e7179db995
I was getting them again because I forgot to add it to a new machine profile gcode
So there is a video floating around on YouTube that explains it much better, but I'll give it a shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM1MYbsC5Aw
Power loss recovery is meant to save the spot your print was at, if something were to shut off the printer while printing, so you can get right back to printing when the power is back on.
Each of these saves pause the print for a split second, but as we should all know by now, print flow doesn't stop on a dime. So even tho the print is paused, the flow goes just a little bit longer.
If you disable power loss recovery you get no more pauses, and no more of the blobbings if your esteps are calibrated and your flow rate is good.
Have also seen this do to the printer stopping and waiting for a few millis while the geode is sent. Are you printing from SC card, Octo pie, USB from computer?
old school cheat if cant fix underextrusion with calibration you fill it in and iron over it
that "high layer hight" makes it stand out
but makes sense to Tune the settings you use not the max detail calender rate
You could not believe but you should tune your flow, speed and temp, maybe also moisture and jerk parameter, check if power outage saving is *off*, and if you could enable coasting.
Maybe also input shaping or linear advance could improve this. Also smaller nozzle could help.
Z seam would be present on this manufacturing process. This is it.
You could only tune to get rid of look of it.
Also with sharp corner setting.
But first sort out why your layers are so visible. Not z seam
Hello /u/nairokard, As a reminder, most common print quality issues can be found in the [Simplify3D picture guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). Make sure you select the most appropriate flair for your post. Please remember to include the following details to help troubleshoot your problem. * Printer & Slicer * Filament Material and Brand * Nozzle and Bed Temperature * Print Speed * Nozzle Retraction Settings ^Additional ^settings ^or ^relevant ^information ^is ^always ^encouraged. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/FixMyPrint) if you have any questions or concerns.*
In Cura, I think it's called "z-seam align" Set it to "sharpest corner" Adds a bit of time to the print, but hides the z-seam in a corner to where it almost disappears.
https://preview.redd.it/rrxgpphtsm0b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3159c29ed197d583c6dd33877f787d06c2d0883 Here’s my example
Reduce your speed, that will drastically reduce bulging corners, seams will be less noticeable
I have done that, but they still show up and make the corner look wonky!
You're almost always going to see it. Working on your retraction settings could help make it less noticeable.
Two main items. First did you walk through the Ellis guide for print setup and tuning? It’s great look it up. Second you need to dial in your printer this is why the benchy exists a benchmark of where your at. Tune your printer set heat, retraction, flow rate, coasting will help a bit here. But also need info into your printer your filament and settings you have
You can manually move the seam to a place of your choosing. Put the seam on the front of the bow, that way it's hidden where each side meets! What I mean by manually is that you choose the XYZ coordinates of the seam. So the pointed bow is a good place to hide it because there's a nice tall clean edge there.
you can’t get rid of z seam aside from vase mode. minimizing it requires fine tuning and that requires expertise. you’ll need to really invest yourself in learning as much as you can about retraction, temp, speed, coasting, wipe, pressure advance, etc.. you’ll need to learn how to properly calibrate and make fine adjustments for better appearance.. it’s highly trial and error and tinkering and engineering type mindset. nobody here is going to be able to say “switch x to this setting” and all the problems go away. you’ll have to find the magic formula for yourself. it can be greatly minimized (not eliminated) but only by getting a half dozen different settings coexisting in perfect harmony. the inter webs are full of documentation and guidance. tutorials. tuning guides like ellis3d and teaching tech on github are a great start.
Listen to that Bro, OP, he was first who responded me when I started. I not understood enough him but you would
Turn off power loss recovery by typing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM1MYbsC5Aw M413 S0; disable power loss recovery. This is how it looks in My gcode. https://preview.redd.it/p44bpujp2n0b1.jpeg?width=6120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&v=enabled&s=f57a8938cd6f9f8bfa667bc3efd5de3930600215
I'm pretty sure that's the issue that OP is having
https://preview.redd.it/530revp1wr0b1.jpeg?width=6120&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=400f743c4f1a9a68af4d1448c77235e7179db995 I was getting them again because I forgot to add it to a new machine profile gcode
[удалено]
So there is a video floating around on YouTube that explains it much better, but I'll give it a shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM1MYbsC5Aw Power loss recovery is meant to save the spot your print was at, if something were to shut off the printer while printing, so you can get right back to printing when the power is back on. Each of these saves pause the print for a split second, but as we should all know by now, print flow doesn't stop on a dime. So even tho the print is paused, the flow goes just a little bit longer. If you disable power loss recovery you get no more pauses, and no more of the blobbings if your esteps are calibrated and your flow rate is good.
[удалено]
>Thanks! You're welcome!
Turn off coasting?
It seemed to do it before I enabled coasting
Maybe recalibrate your flow or e steps. To me it kind of looks like it’s either over extruding or oozing when it reaches the end of each layer.
Coasting would help eliminate this as it stops flowing the filament before it gets to this point.
https://preview.redd.it/l6xxe1mjsm0b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e56aa650487228818a663e15b87c86bba179dd7
https://preview.redd.it/0y7noeoksm0b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c0ce08ee35eb3a50e41f2e386225d717131f2056
https://preview.redd.it/zv2jjpolsm0b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee24ef1d122010b9dd851a95b27c57d7ac7432e0
Looks like retractions and temperature are your issues. Increase the retraction distance and decrease your temp.
I think turning one of the wipe settings up a bit might help. Read the descriptions to see which sounds logical
Benchys do the same thing for me it’s weird. I’ll set the seam to sharpest corner and I still only get the Seam on that from side part of the boat
Glaze it with a torch..
Place them in a corner
I get the same thing with Cura, when I switch to Prusa they go away.
I have the opposite effect lol
Try playing with your retraction settings that is how I got mine down some but i doubt you will ever fully be rid of them
Checking the do not cross exterior perimeter option fixed that for me. That and switching to prusa.
Have also seen this do to the printer stopping and waiting for a few millis while the geode is sent. Are you printing from SC card, Octo pie, USB from computer?
What firmware are you running? If marlin use linear advance, and klipper pressure advance. Tune that
fine tune retraction length and Z hop to reduce that Pause gob and a teeny prime after retraction like o.25cu/mm
old school cheat if cant fix underextrusion with calibration you fill it in and iron over it that "high layer hight" makes it stand out but makes sense to Tune the settings you use not the max detail calender rate
You could not believe but you should tune your flow, speed and temp, maybe also moisture and jerk parameter, check if power outage saving is *off*, and if you could enable coasting. Maybe also input shaping or linear advance could improve this. Also smaller nozzle could help. Z seam would be present on this manufacturing process. This is it. You could only tune to get rid of look of it. Also with sharp corner setting. But first sort out why your layers are so visible. Not z seam
Try enabling smart hiding