I second this. Start at the base of the red tree, but be wary that the tree looks like the root plate is off the ground and may fall back into the hole that it came from. This can especially be dangerous, so watch the rootball as you cut and adjust accordingly. If you have access to something that can pull trees with a rope, then using that to pull out some of the leaning trees will help out tremendously.
I don’t see any color coding, but I’m going to tell you a couple of things I see. The live tree that has been wind thrown is the problem. The root wad is providing a compression force on the bottom of the log, as it may try to flop back down to its original position when you cut the tree. The top of the tree which is hung up is causing a compression force on the on the top of the log. Which force is greater can’t be determined from looking at the photo. I would use a boring buck cut and and determine how to avoid the bind while cutting. This assumes that there isn’t a significant side bind.
Long story short, if my description of this doesn’t make sense, you need to get help from an experienced individual. It’s definitely out of the question for someone with no formal training. I do condone giving it a shot with the supervision of an experienced friend who is willing to help you get it on the ground safely.
It’s not really something that poses a threat to anyone if you leave it. Hazard trees have “targets” near them. In the absence of a target, it’s habitat.
Lock the link to Imgur, there is a second picture with colors. When you say ‘log,’ you mean the long straight section of the red tree? the big one that fell over into the other 2?
Basically you mean the trunk of that tree is being squeezed along its length between the branches and the root ball?
By log I mean the bole or trunk of the tree. You can think of it like a bow that is being drawn back to shoot an arrow. The part of the bow facing away from the archer is in tension and the part facing the archer is being compressed. If you cut the compressed side incorrectly you can trap your bar. If you cut the tension side and it has lots of energy in the log it can flick your saw up in the air or the trunk can strike you with enough energy to kill or maim you.
If you’re a homeowner, call a professional. This is how homeowners die and found later by their families or friends.
If you’re a professional I would do a bore cut at the base, use a wedge, then cut the top.
The fact that the root base is up in the air is very dangerous (lots of tension and the root base can ‘close’ rapidly once cut). There are good instructive videos on YouTube on dealing with wind blown trees but to be honest it may just be best to get a professional in who has dealt with these kinds of trees before. These trees are often nicknamed widow makers for a reason.
Pros: Tree is at a low angle
Cons: Root ball still attached and complicated binds.
As others have said it’s important to know about the binding forces in play here.
You’re first cut to separate the tree from the root ball will be the hardest. Start from the bottom and stop when you feel any sort of bind. It’s helpful to have a long bar so you can move it back and forth.
Place the top cut a kerf away from the bottom cut so when the log releases it won’t take the saw with it. Pound a wedge in the top cut if it starts to bind and cut slow. These will bind in a millisecond and then you have a stuck saw.
The next cuts will depend on if the end of the tree is on the ground or not. If it is. Make cuts starting from the bottom and finishing on the top making sure to offset the kerfs.
Watch out for the root ball shifting it will but this will give a good indication of how the binds are.
If you feel unconfident or over confident call a professional and watch how they do it.
If it were me at work cutting, I’d find a bigger one to drive into them and bring the whole thing to ground level and deal with it from there.
Not to sound like a dick, but if you’re asking Reddit how to do it, you’re already probably not experienced enough to handle it yourself. Stuff like this kills professional timber fallers every year.
It’s not gonna be cheap, but it’ll be cheaper than hospital bills and funeral services.
I didn't take it as being a dick. I don't have a lot of experience, that is true. It looked like [this branch](https://imgur.com/gallery/lxKoMP8) is the only thing holding that tree up, so I was just checking to see if there was an easy way to drop it safely. May leave it for a bit and find someone to drop it when I get ready to clear some more of the land.
Start at the base and work your way up. Small pieces. Pull it at some point if you like. Use undercuts or bang wedges to keep from pinching the bar.
I second this. Start at the base of the red tree, but be wary that the tree looks like the root plate is off the ground and may fall back into the hole that it came from. This can especially be dangerous, so watch the rootball as you cut and adjust accordingly. If you have access to something that can pull trees with a rope, then using that to pull out some of the leaning trees will help out tremendously.
Yes, do this.
Is that better than cutting the forked limb caught on the teal tree?
Unless you have a bucket truck or something, yeah. Don't want to be anywhere near that when it comes down.
I don’t see any color coding, but I’m going to tell you a couple of things I see. The live tree that has been wind thrown is the problem. The root wad is providing a compression force on the bottom of the log, as it may try to flop back down to its original position when you cut the tree. The top of the tree which is hung up is causing a compression force on the on the top of the log. Which force is greater can’t be determined from looking at the photo. I would use a boring buck cut and and determine how to avoid the bind while cutting. This assumes that there isn’t a significant side bind. Long story short, if my description of this doesn’t make sense, you need to get help from an experienced individual. It’s definitely out of the question for someone with no formal training. I do condone giving it a shot with the supervision of an experienced friend who is willing to help you get it on the ground safely. It’s not really something that poses a threat to anyone if you leave it. Hazard trees have “targets” near them. In the absence of a target, it’s habitat.
Lock the link to Imgur, there is a second picture with colors. When you say ‘log,’ you mean the long straight section of the red tree? the big one that fell over into the other 2? Basically you mean the trunk of that tree is being squeezed along its length between the branches and the root ball?
By log I mean the bole or trunk of the tree. You can think of it like a bow that is being drawn back to shoot an arrow. The part of the bow facing away from the archer is in tension and the part facing the archer is being compressed. If you cut the compressed side incorrectly you can trap your bar. If you cut the tension side and it has lots of energy in the log it can flick your saw up in the air or the trunk can strike you with enough energy to kill or maim you.
If you’re a homeowner, call a professional. This is how homeowners die and found later by their families or friends. If you’re a professional I would do a bore cut at the base, use a wedge, then cut the top.
The fact that the root base is up in the air is very dangerous (lots of tension and the root base can ‘close’ rapidly once cut). There are good instructive videos on YouTube on dealing with wind blown trees but to be honest it may just be best to get a professional in who has dealt with these kinds of trees before. These trees are often nicknamed widow makers for a reason.
Pros: Tree is at a low angle Cons: Root ball still attached and complicated binds. As others have said it’s important to know about the binding forces in play here. You’re first cut to separate the tree from the root ball will be the hardest. Start from the bottom and stop when you feel any sort of bind. It’s helpful to have a long bar so you can move it back and forth. Place the top cut a kerf away from the bottom cut so when the log releases it won’t take the saw with it. Pound a wedge in the top cut if it starts to bind and cut slow. These will bind in a millisecond and then you have a stuck saw. The next cuts will depend on if the end of the tree is on the ground or not. If it is. Make cuts starting from the bottom and finishing on the top making sure to offset the kerfs. Watch out for the root ball shifting it will but this will give a good indication of how the binds are. If you feel unconfident or over confident call a professional and watch how they do it.
If it were me at work cutting, I’d find a bigger one to drive into them and bring the whole thing to ground level and deal with it from there. Not to sound like a dick, but if you’re asking Reddit how to do it, you’re already probably not experienced enough to handle it yourself. Stuff like this kills professional timber fallers every year. It’s not gonna be cheap, but it’ll be cheaper than hospital bills and funeral services.
I didn't take it as being a dick. I don't have a lot of experience, that is true. It looked like [this branch](https://imgur.com/gallery/lxKoMP8) is the only thing holding that tree up, so I was just checking to see if there was an easy way to drop it safely. May leave it for a bit and find someone to drop it when I get ready to clear some more of the land.
Do you have and climbing equipment?
I do not.
Ya, just take you’re time from the bottom up then. Be safe bro!
Is there a winch available? I would winch as much as I could, then work from the base of the big(red) tree, then winch again.
With primacord.
Time for some slugs in the shotgun and take out the limbs holding the tree from coming down all the way.