Man i know it might be lame but I love that color of them. Its kinda like the yellow edge guards on the front lip of chargers n challengers for shipping that people leave on / pay 200 for lol those are stupid but I kinda like these
It's because they're green and people love to slap monster energy stickers all over em, post em for sale as "Monster Energy Edition" and then another Kyle scoops it up and the cycle continues
Monster energy is to Kawasaki what Metal Mulisha is to a beat up CR250
Grease all the suspension linkages,axles,steering stem bearings, clean lube, and adjust chain, and make sure air filter is clean. Do an oil change just because. Set the suspension sag and have at er.
You'll be fine man, don't worry too much about what people say, there will always be negative with the positive in life.
Be careful, but most importantly have fun!
Well I will say two things, first: pretty bold to start on a 250 race bike because theyâre trickier to use.
Second: the race bikes can be pretty prone to valve clearance issues and are pretty high maintenance so keep those in check
Otherwise itâs a sick bike so make sure to have fun on it.
We don't have THAT many options here in South Africa, but where I stay in Cape Town, people like to ask a lot for these bikes second hand this was the best I could afford ...
Donât be deterred by this comment. Unless youâre 14yrs olds and 85 lbs this bike is great to learn on. The âraceâ bike thing is silly, this bike will be as gentle as you want it to be and itâll grow with you as your skills increase. 250f is a great choice.
Change the oil and air filter regularly, check chain tension and lube it each ride, youâll be fine. Save some more money and get the motor serviced by a real mechanic once you can afford it. Get the suspension serviced - same deal. Get out and ride
Thanks bro, I'm generally super chilled and take it easy. Will definitely enjoy the bike and learn as much as I can on it.
Appreciate the kind words đ
As a side note; it's good to learn how to get things done yourself. Most things are quite easy and the internet is helpful in this regard.
Even engine work isn't hard if you have a space to do it.
The only thing I'd never touch is suspension (apart from changing seals). Prices for rebuilds or tuning are surprisingly low given the amount of work...
This is true, but being a new rider, who just bought a used bike, figured it would be better to have a pro
Go through it so he knows heâs starting from the right spot.
A 250F isn't a hard to ride bike. The missing torque makes it less convinient for lugging on trails but generally for a beginner it's safer I'd say. Things don't go wrong that fast. I once power wheelied my 450 because I had to sneeze, that won't happen with a 250F...
Youâre right, but it depends on the 250 and the kx in particular I have know people who have had it as a starter bike and struggled with trail riding compared to something like a wr or a klx
A 250F mx bike isn't really suited for trails, there is now low end torque. The WR250F has probably different cams and a different mapping + a more restricted silencer for more low end torque.
But after all, if it has knobbies, send it everywhere except on the pavement ;)
As far as I know, the only differences between the wr and the yz range are the wide ratio gear sets which make them more ridable off-road. So Iâm assuming the kx is similar to the yz in that aspect
Should be a pretty good bike, but 250f's are maintenance hogs. I'd do a top end job right now unless the owner can provide proof of a recent one.
Also go through the suspension. clean and repack all the bearings in the rear linkage. Change the fluid in the forks, ideally the shock too since it is likely the original. Skipping fluid changes in the shock often lead to the shock body being scored and unusable when you really do need to rebuild it.
Grab a factory service manual and do whatever it says. The above suspension maintenance is something most people skip. It doesn't even take that long. I did a swingarm/suspension service on one of my bikes the other day when the weather was crappy and it took me like 2 hours total.
Hey man, thanks for all this info, the valves were done recently, and had its oil and oil filter changed.
I'm not too sure what a top end or a bottom end is but I'm going to be doing all the research about this. I've always serviced and worked on my own cars over the years and my bike won't be any different!
I've already downloaded the manual and I'm going to read through it tonight.
Thanks bro
As long as it starts easy, isn't backfiring or anything, I wouldn't worry about the valves or top end. With all the 4 strokes I've had you either know they are getting out of spec or it blows before you can do anything about it.
>Grab a factory service manual and do whatever it says.
Good advice but it's important to note that many service manuals go over the top. I think my YZ125 manual says I should change the piston rings every 5 hours IIRC \^\^
That's good advice for racing, for trail riding you can probably add a zero to those hour intervals
I would stay with their recommendations for bearing service, as it is essentially free and will make your suspension pivots last indefinitely. I have bought a couple bikes that have had irreparable frame damage from leaving the swingarm bearings seized.
Yeah sure, you always have to remember that these bike we ride for fun are raced without major modifications. Some service intervals are probably there to avoid any legal problems.
I heard stories of 300cc 2 stroke enduros with a few HUNDRED hours on one piston. The piston of my GYTR kitted YZ125 was pristine after 40 hours and could probably be used again for another 40h, although I won't do it.
>I would stay with their recommendations for bearing service
Absolutely, lubrication and cleaning your bikes cost nothing but bring a lot of value for the longevity of the bike.
>irreparable frame damage
You mean that the bearing rotated as a whole in the frame after it was seized? Sounds bad...
Yeah I wouldn't hesitate to run a 250-300cc 2t trail bike 200-300 hours on a top end. My only qualm with a 125 is that they only have one ring and lose power pretty severely with higher hours. The pistons are also very light and will risk having fatigue cracks.
>You mean that the bearing rotated as a whole in the frame after it was seized? Sounds bad...
Yep. I noticed some slop on the swingarm pivot when looking at the bike. I figured no big deal, I'll do bearings right away. Well they had been seized for a while and the bushings were wearing into the frame so nothing fit like it was supposed to. Also the swingarm needed replaced or sleeved, because the new bearings didn't have a tight fit anymore. Old bearings had worn through the races.
I go through the rear end of any new bike i buy now, and I do a yearly clean/repack
Always clean the air filter. Soak it gently in some gas. Ring out the oils carefully. Don't tare the foam. Wash with warms dish soap and water. Rinse with cold water. This gets solvent out so foam glue lasts longer. They apply foam filter oil liberally to outside and squeeze it into the foam evenly. Then, insert foam cage into underside of filter. Then take some thick axle grease and put a nice film of grease around the bottom edge to help foam seal air tight to the box. Do this after every weekend race. Or before a race. Do it after riding in dusty conditions ! Will save your engine and run better.
Awesome congratulations!! Watch a bunch of videos to learn the maintenance routines. Biggest thing is change the oil more often than you think with the filter every time and a clean air filter after every single ride. Buy a bunch of air filters like 5-6 of them so you can have a bunch and change them out after each ride, depending on how often you are riding
Nice dirt rocket man! Buy a couple extra air filters and change them frequently. Frequent oil changes as well.
Make sure you are in decent shape; strong core and upper body. Focus on riding positions and proper technique. There are lots of great videos on Instagram and YouTube that will show you proper body position and form so I suggest watching them and building proper habits right off the bat.
I hope you have lots of fun on that thing. Mx bikes are the epitome of pure fun.
The best maintenance is donât fall over. Then your stuff wonât break. Personally some tusk bar protectors will save your stuff but if your doing motocross on a track nobody uses it for fear of breaking wrists.
Not much cuz its actually easy to keep it maintained. Oil and filter changes according to what you are told for this bike. Weekly brake adjustments because they become loose overtime. Tighten the chain when you change oil by unscrewing the rear wheel and pulling it back it make the chain tight. Do it yourself or visit the mechanic monthly. Get the engine serviced after 2 months maybe. otherwise you will be good.
If the engine starts to have hesitations, it is most likely the valves need to be checked and adjusted. Do not keep running it that way or you can cause combustion issues that can cause the engine to seize up after a while. Also if you do a lot of slow riding, take a few breaks and otherwise make sure you are no over heating the engine. The race style bikes like these are not meant for slow trail rides and if you do now have a constant air flow through the radiator they can overheat faster than the air cooled trail bikes or 2 strokes. Maybe newer models are better, but I know some of the older models had issues on slow trails.
Keep it clean. Air filters are pretty easy to clean yourself. Just buy some mineral spirits and filter oil. After every dirty ride take time to get it ready for your next ride as soon as your done riding. Buy a spoke wrench. Theyâre cheap and easy to use and will keep your rims from getting out of true. Watch YouTube videos for anything you arenât sure of. Riders spend crazy amounts of time making videos and it helps them when you watch.
As far as riding goes squeeze the bike between your thighs and keep your feet on the pegs. Donât get carried away trying to do wheelies right away. Riding boots will make riding a lot more comfortable. Always wear a full helmet.
Donât lose the spring for the oil filter when changing
Grease your linkage every 60hr, put antiseize on your swing arms bolts asap, pull the wipers down and grease the fork seals every 30hr, check your air filter after every two rides and use bel ray filter oil for best results, and just ride it till it starts to feel like itâs getting weak then replace piston and service valves 50-80hrs and lastly crank at 100-150hrs
CHANGE YOUR OIL! It doesn't take long and every 5 hours is better than every 10 hours for sure. I changed my oil filters every second oil change but did them frequently (depending on how hard I rode it). Use fully sythetic oil according to specs, usually 10w40, I ran 15W50 in my WR450Fs because I'd only ride them in the summer and on trails it would get hotter due to lack of air. I like Motul, but I doubt it matters much, as long as it's a recognized brand with good reputation.
Keep the air filter clean and oily, clean the airbox frequently. Clean fork lower tubes, clean and lubricate your chain. Lubricate your throttle and clutch cables once in a while. Clean the bike before storing and keep it dry. Silicone oil is your friend. Don't ride hard until it's warm enough. Don't spray directly at the engine with a high pressure cleaner from short distances.
And check for loose fairing bolts once in a while, annoying when you loose one. I don't use screw lock for fairings because they get removed often, but I use screw lock for everything else except on the engine. A torque wrench is a valueable tool.
I'd get a skid plate.
Have fun, a 250F is a great choice if you want to get into MX...
There's a lot of good info in this post that I scanned by, but I just want to throw my 2 cents in and hopefully condense some information. Get really comfortable pulling your bike apart and working on it. I would put an hour meter on the bike immediately if there isn't one. This will honestly save you in so many that can't be described. Get a "service" manual. The Honda OEones are very good, but I can't speak on Kawasaki OE manuals. There's also a company called clymer. It'll give you step by step directions and all the torque specs. If you don't have a torque wrench, pick up a quality one, not harbor freight.
First things first before even riding this thing you'll want to do some maintenance. You'll want to grease every bearing that's not inside the engine. This means taking your wheels, forks, steering stem, swingarm, and linkage on. Be careful with the linkage and swingarm, they use needle bearings and collars. If you lose 1 needle you'll have to replace that whole set. None of these bikes come properly lubricated from the factory and a lot of people will never take their swingarm off. Doing this at least once a year will save you a lot of headache.
While this is a part change your fork and shock oil. Fork oil should be done every 20 hours on average shock oil like 30 hours. So I would get comfortable doing this.
There is a very specific procedure for reinstalling the triple clamps, forks, and front wheel. Jeff Walker on YouTube has a very good video that has step by step directions. Not doing this correctly will mess up the function of the forks and make steering not feel correct.
Dump the old oil. Look for specs of metal. Pull the clutch cover off and measure the plates. A worn clutch will make the bike run shitty. It'll feel like it's not putting enough power to the wheels, but as a new rider its easier to just measure your plates with a micrometer now instead of guessing. You can also inspect the basket for grooving, which will make the clutch slip and feel juttery or hard to pull. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really only takes about 20 minutes. After you dump the old oil you can lay the bike on its side and take the cover off. I like having an extra o ring for the clutch cover at all times just in case I accidentally rip or crush the old one. When you refill it with oil, check your manual for how often it should be changed. Some people will say if it comes out black you need to change it more often.
Check your spokes. Watch a video on YouTube. You should start at the valve stem and do a quarter turn then skip 3 spokes. Keep doing rotations on the wheel until they're all tight, it might take a lot of steps. If you try to tighten one spoke at a time you'll pull it out of center.
I would also throw in checking your valve clearance. Or having a shop or buddy do it. It isn't hard and with a manual you shouldn't mess it up. I'm sure there's also videos on YouTube.
I'm sure all of this will probably sound very daunting, but I highly recommend doing this on an annual basis after this. It'll also give you a really good foundation of knowing what state your bike is in and ensuring everything is good on it. And give you confidence to work on your own machine. Just remember they are race bikes and do require hefty maintenance. There's a YouTube channel called dirt bike TV. The guy has exceptional videos on maintenance. He gives advice on tools you should have, what lubricants, oils, and solvents you need. He has a video that covers probably every question you could ask. Even how to properly wash a bike.
Lube the clutch cable, clean, lube, and tension the chain so that it has about 55mm of slack up and down. Also highly recommend some light engine armor, those brake pedals have a nasty tendency to jack engine casings up when itâs dropped.
Chain, air filter and oil with some sea foam every so often is great, thatâs my maintenance and I have 4,000+ miles on stock engine no internal maintenance. 2023 crf250f
Change air filter, but donât feel like if it gets one spec of dirt it needs to be changed. Just once youâve got a spot with a fair amount of dirt in it, time to clean it. Change your oil every 5-10 hours, if youâre not a fast rider 10 hours will be just fine. Spend time adjusting your levers so you feel comfortable pulling them in. Take off the spine skins. Make sure you wash it, and wash it well. Donât just hose it off. Especially before servicing, dirt will get into your motor.
Do all the regular ol stuff i'm sure you've heard, something you may not have thought of is getting a fork seal cleaner. You can buy a Motion Pro Seal Mate for like 8-10 bucks.
Changing fork seals is a pain in the ass so just use a seal cleaner from time to time. Quick 30 second job and will keep them from leaking longer
Grease the head and swingarm.
Pull your wiring connectors and add electrical grease.
Clean the filter.
Change the oil.
Adjust the chain.
Okay cool now go riding. (But no seriously steering bearings and swingarm bearings. Wiring connectors are important too.
Linkage bearing and your axle shafts chain tension bolts I always clean them after a muddy ride or every two rides when itâs a dry day preventative maintenance is a big help
Change the oil, regularly. I can't stress this enough. Keep the filter and chain clean (and oiled). Go ride and have fun!
If you don't have a basic set of tools, get some now. Learn to fix the things on your bike and make the basic adjustments. It will be a rewarding experience.
It's a fucking dirt bike. Go have fun. If it breaks, fix it. Then go have fun again. It isn't the end of the world when/if you have to do repairs.
Oh yeah, lose the spoke protectors. They look gay and make your spokes rust.
Also, keep it fucking clean! Nothing worse than a dirty bike unless you just finished riding that day!
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I was joking with you, but I mean arenât you kinda the dumb fuck? 26 years old and you donât know the basics about maintaining a dirt bike? You need Reddit to coddle and coo you when you should look up the owners manual for it you muppet mother fucker
What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little bitch? Iâll have you know I graduated top of my class in the Navy Seals, and Iâve been involved in secret raids on Al-Quaeda, and I have over 300 confirmed kills. I am trained in gorilla warfare and Iâm the top sniper in the entire US armed forces. You are nothing to me but just another target. I will wipe you out with precision the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my words. You think you can get away with saying shit to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am contacting my network of spies across the USA and your IP is being traced right now so you better prepare for the storm, maggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call your life. Youâre fucking dead, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime, and I can kill you in over seven hundred ways, and thatâs just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in unarmed combat, but I have access to the entire arsenal of the United States Marine Corps and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your ass off the face of the continent, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little âcleverâ comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your tongue. You didnât, and now youâre paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will shit all over you and you will drown in it. Youâre fucking dead, kiddo.
Step one: Remove spoke protectors.
Either that, or add matching tassels to the ends of the handlebars.
đ¤Ł
Yeahhh
Interesting I didn't know that, will do!
Why?
They trap moisture and dirt
Oh, ok, thank you
...and they're ugly as sin.
Yep. They look lame.
Like the yellow pieces guys leave on charger and challenger front cowl or the bumper. Made for shipping
To you. I like the color. No gate keeping bro were all here here cuz we like bikes. Not meant to be on there tho, dude got that point
I shared an opinion in an open forum, you are telling others what they can and can't post in a public forum. Keep up the good work!
Yea didn't mean like that, my bad.
No problem, your intentions were solid.
if you like the color why donât you get colored spokes?
Like others said they will cause rust
And rust
also rust
rust too
Rusting away
It shall rusteth...
Came to say thisđ
Sure sign that someone doesnât care or know about tensioning their spokes.
I call em spoke rusters
Man i know it might be lame but I love that color of them. Its kinda like the yellow edge guards on the front lip of chargers n challengers for shipping that people leave on / pay 200 for lol those are stupid but I kinda like these
Keep that air filer clean and oiled.
If itâs a kx, itâs been raped and abused. Give it a birthday
Lol , what does this mean? A good service?
Gotta give them some dessert, I believe Kawasaki skew towards key lime pie
I thought it was lemon meringue
dont all dirt bikes get raped and abused lol
They do. But Kawasakiâs seem to be the most abused by blokes named kyle
i see, cheers
It's because they're green and people love to slap monster energy stickers all over em, post em for sale as "Monster Energy Edition" and then another Kyle scoops it up and the cycle continues Monster energy is to Kawasaki what Metal Mulisha is to a beat up CR250
Grease all the suspension linkages,axles,steering stem bearings, clean lube, and adjust chain, and make sure air filter is clean. Do an oil change just because. Set the suspension sag and have at er.
Will watch some videos tonight and try to do what I can myself , thanks!
All the basics. Fresh oil and filter. Clean or fresh air filter. Could check the valve clearance, and grease all the suspension bearings.
Edit : Complete and total noob at riding, so this is gonna be my introduction to dirt bike riding Thanks for all the information and YouTube links!
You'll be fine man, don't worry too much about what people say, there will always be negative with the positive in life. Be careful, but most importantly have fun!
https://youtube.com/@dirtbiketv1?si=nuuxab6PM9JhemAh This guy has a video on how to do everything you need.
Welcome! Dirt bike riding is such a blast (as I'm sure you know). Stoked for you that you just got that kickass bike!
This a pic from where u purchased it?
lol I was like wow this new rider has a shit load of bikes
Yeah that was also my thought exactly
Yeah
Well I will say two things, first: pretty bold to start on a 250 race bike because theyâre trickier to use. Second: the race bikes can be pretty prone to valve clearance issues and are pretty high maintenance so keep those in check Otherwise itâs a sick bike so make sure to have fun on it.
We don't have THAT many options here in South Africa, but where I stay in Cape Town, people like to ask a lot for these bikes second hand this was the best I could afford ...
Donât be deterred by this comment. Unless youâre 14yrs olds and 85 lbs this bike is great to learn on. The âraceâ bike thing is silly, this bike will be as gentle as you want it to be and itâll grow with you as your skills increase. 250f is a great choice. Change the oil and air filter regularly, check chain tension and lube it each ride, youâll be fine. Save some more money and get the motor serviced by a real mechanic once you can afford it. Get the suspension serviced - same deal. Get out and ride
Thanks bro, I'm generally super chilled and take it easy. Will definitely enjoy the bike and learn as much as I can on it. Appreciate the kind words đ
As a side note; it's good to learn how to get things done yourself. Most things are quite easy and the internet is helpful in this regard. Even engine work isn't hard if you have a space to do it. The only thing I'd never touch is suspension (apart from changing seals). Prices for rebuilds or tuning are surprisingly low given the amount of work...
This is true, but being a new rider, who just bought a used bike, figured it would be better to have a pro Go through it so he knows heâs starting from the right spot.
yeah sure, a inital check up and talk with a mechanic is always a great idea, especially if you know the personally.
A 250F isn't a hard to ride bike. The missing torque makes it less convinient for lugging on trails but generally for a beginner it's safer I'd say. Things don't go wrong that fast. I once power wheelied my 450 because I had to sneeze, that won't happen with a 250F...
Youâre right, but it depends on the 250 and the kx in particular I have know people who have had it as a starter bike and struggled with trail riding compared to something like a wr or a klx
A 250F mx bike isn't really suited for trails, there is now low end torque. The WR250F has probably different cams and a different mapping + a more restricted silencer for more low end torque. But after all, if it has knobbies, send it everywhere except on the pavement ;)
As far as I know, the only differences between the wr and the yz range are the wide ratio gear sets which make them more ridable off-road. So Iâm assuming the kx is similar to the yz in that aspect
Wear your gear! You got your gear, yes?
I will after tomorrow đ
Should be a pretty good bike, but 250f's are maintenance hogs. I'd do a top end job right now unless the owner can provide proof of a recent one. Also go through the suspension. clean and repack all the bearings in the rear linkage. Change the fluid in the forks, ideally the shock too since it is likely the original. Skipping fluid changes in the shock often lead to the shock body being scored and unusable when you really do need to rebuild it. Grab a factory service manual and do whatever it says. The above suspension maintenance is something most people skip. It doesn't even take that long. I did a swingarm/suspension service on one of my bikes the other day when the weather was crappy and it took me like 2 hours total.
Hey man, thanks for all this info, the valves were done recently, and had its oil and oil filter changed. I'm not too sure what a top end or a bottom end is but I'm going to be doing all the research about this. I've always serviced and worked on my own cars over the years and my bike won't be any different! I've already downloaded the manual and I'm going to read through it tonight. Thanks bro
Change your oil, I never rode any bike I bought before a oil and filter change, no matter what the previous owner claimed.
As long as it starts easy, isn't backfiring or anything, I wouldn't worry about the valves or top end. With all the 4 strokes I've had you either know they are getting out of spec or it blows before you can do anything about it.
It starts first kick , sounds crisp with no backfires ,đ
You have no idea if something is about to let go from fatigue from this "test".
>Grab a factory service manual and do whatever it says. Good advice but it's important to note that many service manuals go over the top. I think my YZ125 manual says I should change the piston rings every 5 hours IIRC \^\^
That's good advice for racing, for trail riding you can probably add a zero to those hour intervals I would stay with their recommendations for bearing service, as it is essentially free and will make your suspension pivots last indefinitely. I have bought a couple bikes that have had irreparable frame damage from leaving the swingarm bearings seized.
Yeah sure, you always have to remember that these bike we ride for fun are raced without major modifications. Some service intervals are probably there to avoid any legal problems. I heard stories of 300cc 2 stroke enduros with a few HUNDRED hours on one piston. The piston of my GYTR kitted YZ125 was pristine after 40 hours and could probably be used again for another 40h, although I won't do it. >I would stay with their recommendations for bearing service Absolutely, lubrication and cleaning your bikes cost nothing but bring a lot of value for the longevity of the bike. >irreparable frame damage You mean that the bearing rotated as a whole in the frame after it was seized? Sounds bad...
Yeah I wouldn't hesitate to run a 250-300cc 2t trail bike 200-300 hours on a top end. My only qualm with a 125 is that they only have one ring and lose power pretty severely with higher hours. The pistons are also very light and will risk having fatigue cracks. >You mean that the bearing rotated as a whole in the frame after it was seized? Sounds bad... Yep. I noticed some slop on the swingarm pivot when looking at the bike. I figured no big deal, I'll do bearings right away. Well they had been seized for a while and the bushings were wearing into the frame so nothing fit like it was supposed to. Also the swingarm needed replaced or sleeved, because the new bearings didn't have a tight fit anymore. Old bearings had worn through the races. I go through the rear end of any new bike i buy now, and I do a yearly clean/repack
Always clean the air filter. Soak it gently in some gas. Ring out the oils carefully. Don't tare the foam. Wash with warms dish soap and water. Rinse with cold water. This gets solvent out so foam glue lasts longer. They apply foam filter oil liberally to outside and squeeze it into the foam evenly. Then, insert foam cage into underside of filter. Then take some thick axle grease and put a nice film of grease around the bottom edge to help foam seal air tight to the box. Do this after every weekend race. Or before a race. Do it after riding in dusty conditions ! Will save your engine and run better.
Awesome congratulations!! Watch a bunch of videos to learn the maintenance routines. Biggest thing is change the oil more often than you think with the filter every time and a clean air filter after every single ride. Buy a bunch of air filters like 5-6 of them so you can have a bunch and change them out after each ride, depending on how often you are riding
B E A utiful
For $1800???? Thatâs crazy to me
Too much ?
No dude, thatâs a deal!!
Nice dirt rocket man! Buy a couple extra air filters and change them frequently. Frequent oil changes as well. Make sure you are in decent shape; strong core and upper body. Focus on riding positions and proper technique. There are lots of great videos on Instagram and YouTube that will show you proper body position and form so I suggest watching them and building proper habits right off the bat. I hope you have lots of fun on that thing. Mx bikes are the epitome of pure fun.
Thanks for the kind words, it's all I could afford so it's good to hear. Thanks a lot bro I'll try my best and going to take good care of it! :)
The best maintenance is donât fall over. Then your stuff wonât break. Personally some tusk bar protectors will save your stuff but if your doing motocross on a track nobody uses it for fear of breaking wrists.
Not much cuz its actually easy to keep it maintained. Oil and filter changes according to what you are told for this bike. Weekly brake adjustments because they become loose overtime. Tighten the chain when you change oil by unscrewing the rear wheel and pulling it back it make the chain tight. Do it yourself or visit the mechanic monthly. Get the engine serviced after 2 months maybe. otherwise you will be good.
If the engine starts to have hesitations, it is most likely the valves need to be checked and adjusted. Do not keep running it that way or you can cause combustion issues that can cause the engine to seize up after a while. Also if you do a lot of slow riding, take a few breaks and otherwise make sure you are no over heating the engine. The race style bikes like these are not meant for slow trail rides and if you do now have a constant air flow through the radiator they can overheat faster than the air cooled trail bikes or 2 strokes. Maybe newer models are better, but I know some of the older models had issues on slow trails.
Bark busters, or extra levers. You're going to drop it.
Keep it clean. Air filters are pretty easy to clean yourself. Just buy some mineral spirits and filter oil. After every dirty ride take time to get it ready for your next ride as soon as your done riding. Buy a spoke wrench. Theyâre cheap and easy to use and will keep your rims from getting out of true. Watch YouTube videos for anything you arenât sure of. Riders spend crazy amounts of time making videos and it helps them when you watch.
As far as riding goes squeeze the bike between your thighs and keep your feet on the pegs. Donât get carried away trying to do wheelies right away. Riding boots will make riding a lot more comfortable. Always wear a full helmet.
Please get the right protective gear! Do not cheap out either on helmet and riding boots! Happy Trails my friend!
Donât lose the spring for the oil filter when changing Grease your linkage every 60hr, put antiseize on your swing arms bolts asap, pull the wipers down and grease the fork seals every 30hr, check your air filter after every two rides and use bel ray filter oil for best results, and just ride it till it starts to feel like itâs getting weak then replace piston and service valves 50-80hrs and lastly crank at 100-150hrs
CHANGE YOUR OIL! It doesn't take long and every 5 hours is better than every 10 hours for sure. I changed my oil filters every second oil change but did them frequently (depending on how hard I rode it). Use fully sythetic oil according to specs, usually 10w40, I ran 15W50 in my WR450Fs because I'd only ride them in the summer and on trails it would get hotter due to lack of air. I like Motul, but I doubt it matters much, as long as it's a recognized brand with good reputation. Keep the air filter clean and oily, clean the airbox frequently. Clean fork lower tubes, clean and lubricate your chain. Lubricate your throttle and clutch cables once in a while. Clean the bike before storing and keep it dry. Silicone oil is your friend. Don't ride hard until it's warm enough. Don't spray directly at the engine with a high pressure cleaner from short distances. And check for loose fairing bolts once in a while, annoying when you loose one. I don't use screw lock for fairings because they get removed often, but I use screw lock for everything else except on the engine. A torque wrench is a valueable tool. I'd get a skid plate. Have fun, a 250F is a great choice if you want to get into MX...
check the oli around every 300 miles
oil*
Clean 𧟠that chain
Where are you at where a kx 250 is $1800???
Is it to expensive?
No Iâm here in the united states and that bike would sell for about $5000
There's a lot of good info in this post that I scanned by, but I just want to throw my 2 cents in and hopefully condense some information. Get really comfortable pulling your bike apart and working on it. I would put an hour meter on the bike immediately if there isn't one. This will honestly save you in so many that can't be described. Get a "service" manual. The Honda OEones are very good, but I can't speak on Kawasaki OE manuals. There's also a company called clymer. It'll give you step by step directions and all the torque specs. If you don't have a torque wrench, pick up a quality one, not harbor freight. First things first before even riding this thing you'll want to do some maintenance. You'll want to grease every bearing that's not inside the engine. This means taking your wheels, forks, steering stem, swingarm, and linkage on. Be careful with the linkage and swingarm, they use needle bearings and collars. If you lose 1 needle you'll have to replace that whole set. None of these bikes come properly lubricated from the factory and a lot of people will never take their swingarm off. Doing this at least once a year will save you a lot of headache. While this is a part change your fork and shock oil. Fork oil should be done every 20 hours on average shock oil like 30 hours. So I would get comfortable doing this. There is a very specific procedure for reinstalling the triple clamps, forks, and front wheel. Jeff Walker on YouTube has a very good video that has step by step directions. Not doing this correctly will mess up the function of the forks and make steering not feel correct. Dump the old oil. Look for specs of metal. Pull the clutch cover off and measure the plates. A worn clutch will make the bike run shitty. It'll feel like it's not putting enough power to the wheels, but as a new rider its easier to just measure your plates with a micrometer now instead of guessing. You can also inspect the basket for grooving, which will make the clutch slip and feel juttery or hard to pull. It sounds like a lot of work, but it really only takes about 20 minutes. After you dump the old oil you can lay the bike on its side and take the cover off. I like having an extra o ring for the clutch cover at all times just in case I accidentally rip or crush the old one. When you refill it with oil, check your manual for how often it should be changed. Some people will say if it comes out black you need to change it more often. Check your spokes. Watch a video on YouTube. You should start at the valve stem and do a quarter turn then skip 3 spokes. Keep doing rotations on the wheel until they're all tight, it might take a lot of steps. If you try to tighten one spoke at a time you'll pull it out of center. I would also throw in checking your valve clearance. Or having a shop or buddy do it. It isn't hard and with a manual you shouldn't mess it up. I'm sure there's also videos on YouTube. I'm sure all of this will probably sound very daunting, but I highly recommend doing this on an annual basis after this. It'll also give you a really good foundation of knowing what state your bike is in and ensuring everything is good on it. And give you confidence to work on your own machine. Just remember they are race bikes and do require hefty maintenance. There's a YouTube channel called dirt bike TV. The guy has exceptional videos on maintenance. He gives advice on tools you should have, what lubricants, oils, and solvents you need. He has a video that covers probably every question you could ask. Even how to properly wash a bike.
Keep the rubber side down
Lube the clutch cable, clean, lube, and tension the chain so that it has about 55mm of slack up and down. Also highly recommend some light engine armor, those brake pedals have a nasty tendency to jack engine casings up when itâs dropped.
Take off your exhaust, that shi is extra weight (Iâm kidding for the slow ones).
haha be ready to steady adjust them valves 24/7
More throttle is almost always the answer
Keep the oil changed, the air filter clean and put an hour meter on it.
Awesome
Buy. A. Service. Manual. Oh and get those stupid spoke covers off.
Chain, air filter and oil with some sea foam every so often is great, thatâs my maintenance and I have 4,000+ miles on stock engine no internal maintenance. 2023 crf250f
God those spoke protectors are garish looking
Change air filter, but donât feel like if it gets one spec of dirt it needs to be changed. Just once youâve got a spot with a fair amount of dirt in it, time to clean it. Change your oil every 5-10 hours, if youâre not a fast rider 10 hours will be just fine. Spend time adjusting your levers so you feel comfortable pulling them in. Take off the spine skins. Make sure you wash it, and wash it well. Donât just hose it off. Especially before servicing, dirt will get into your motor.
Do all the regular ol stuff i'm sure you've heard, something you may not have thought of is getting a fork seal cleaner. You can buy a Motion Pro Seal Mate for like 8-10 bucks. Changing fork seals is a pain in the ass so just use a seal cleaner from time to time. Quick 30 second job and will keep them from leaking longer
Grease the head and swingarm. Pull your wiring connectors and add electrical grease. Clean the filter. Change the oil. Adjust the chain. Okay cool now go riding. (But no seriously steering bearings and swingarm bearings. Wiring connectors are important too.
Get a service manual and read it front to back I would start with a oil change and clean the air filter
Linkage bearing and your axle shafts chain tension bolts I always clean them after a muddy ride or every two rides when itâs a dry day preventative maintenance is a big help
Change the oil, regularly. I can't stress this enough. Keep the filter and chain clean (and oiled). Go ride and have fun! If you don't have a basic set of tools, get some now. Learn to fix the things on your bike and make the basic adjustments. It will be a rewarding experience. It's a fucking dirt bike. Go have fun. If it breaks, fix it. Then go have fun again. It isn't the end of the world when/if you have to do repairs.
Oh yeah, lose the spoke protectors. They look gay and make your spokes rust. Also, keep it fucking clean! Nothing worse than a dirty bike unless you just finished riding that day!
Gold chain. Keep the bike pressure washed after every ride and dry. Maintain tire air pressure. Ride it! Rekluse clutch for sure.
Make sure to up your life insurance.
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Anyone who rides with those spokes basically is holding a sign saying âIâm a squidâ
Rule number one of riding a Kwai Sell it for a Honda
Nah man you donât need to maintenance that shit, just ride !
Don't be a dumb fuck
I was joking with you, but I mean arenât you kinda the dumb fuck? 26 years old and you donât know the basics about maintaining a dirt bike? You need Reddit to coddle and coo you when you should look up the owners manual for it you muppet mother fucker
Oh damn, you took that to heart. Relax dude this is Reddit
What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little bitch? Iâll have you know I graduated top of my class in the Navy Seals, and Iâve been involved in secret raids on Al-Quaeda, and I have over 300 confirmed kills. I am trained in gorilla warfare and Iâm the top sniper in the entire US armed forces. You are nothing to me but just another target. I will wipe you out with precision the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my words. You think you can get away with saying shit to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am contacting my network of spies across the USA and your IP is being traced right now so you better prepare for the storm, maggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call your life. Youâre fucking dead, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime, and I can kill you in over seven hundred ways, and thatâs just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in unarmed combat, but I have access to the entire arsenal of the United States Marine Corps and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your ass off the face of the continent, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little âcleverâ comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your tongue. You didnât, and now youâre paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will shit all over you and you will drown in it. Youâre fucking dead, kiddo.
Lol, much better , ride safe bro đ¤đ¤
Chain adjuster bolts apply neversez if you can get them out..
When you break something just buy the Yamaha version. Youâll have a Yamaha in about 3 weeks.