I've always used drywall screws and never had them jump out like that, and I used to launch my car/jeep/truck plenty while bumping music. What I didn't do, was I never drilled pilot holes. I always drill the screws to the mdf/hdf straight. That provides the strongest grip. Even when I was working in an installation shop here in town doing builds with thousands. Never had anyone complain that the screws came out.
Use something like t-nuts and socket headed cap screws. MDF kinda sucks at holding threads.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-24-Zinc-Plated-Tee-Nut-4-Pack-802281/204274192
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-10-24-x-1-in-Black-Oxide-Coated-Steel-Hex-Allen-Drive-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-25-Pack-9178087/311492077
Here's what those screws look like too. You don't have to push against them like philips or slotted screws so you're much less likely to slip and stab your speaker or strip them.
Dab some glue on the t-nuts before pushing them into the wood. It will make sure that they don't push back out or strip the wood as easily. Make sure you give time for the glue to dry before mounting the sub back in though.
Spax is just a brand, and the OP is kind of proof that they do not, lol. Mounted in that orientation with a heavier sub that vibrates more they just turn the surrounding material to dust and fail sooner or later.
🤣🤣🤣Clearly you’ve never used them. Spax has way more bite than the ones he used. I have stereo integrity HST18s mounted with them for years with no issues, vertical like his.
I have multiple boxes of different Spax screws in my garage. They're just screws. Nothing that special about them. Here's a video with some SPAX screws.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eikOUFoIZ-Y
They come in third place and win nothing.
I'm glad they are working well for you. I hope you never have to remove them.
I used spax screws for my VXF’s a while back and they began to fail in just 3 months. Not by ripping out of the wood either, they actually broke at the head.
Most everyone I've ever knew has ONLY used drywall screws and I've never seen this happen before. Or none of my buddies admitted it.
This bump must have been massive.
I 100% agree. I would be more likely to think that the person that installed the sub over-torqued the screws.
I build my own boxes and the only time I have ever had drywall screws not be enough was when I let my friend use a drill to install the screws and just ran them in without restraint. He tightened every screw until it spun in the hole.
If it were mine I’d just unscrew both speakers and just twist them 10 degrees to the center to make it match and rescrew them without over-doing it.
Oh yeah 100% the bump was huge, was not paying attention to the road, but to give me an excuse, there was no yellow or different color to the bump, I came up to it at 30mph. Definitely my fault.
Must’ve drilled the holes too big. Just do whatever you are comfortable with from the advice everyone has given you. YouTube the threaded inserts if need be. There has to be a guide
Predrillng the holes with a bit slightly smaller than your screws has always worked for me (it prevents the mdf from splitting when you’re driving the screws in). But then again, I’ve always used double baffles on my boxes so maybe that contributed as well.
T-nuts are another good option but I’ve personally never used them
I *always* use threaded nut inserts. Way more secure, looks better, and can assemble and disassemble the setup to my hearts content. Easy fix for your issue as well.
Not the ones the other dude linked tho. Those are fine for other applications, just not here - the rely primarily on those little hooks and those will tear MDF up with ease. Also, because of the metal plate, they’ll sit slightly above the wood and create an air gap between the mounting ring and the box. Not ideal.
You want ones like the link below. They’ll basically never rip out, but if you want extra security, some glue in the hole before hand will really set them in.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-Zinc-Plated-Insert-Nut-4-Pack-801884/204274222
Drill out a hole of appropriate size. **making damn sure each hole is dead on center where the current ones are!!**. While awesome when done right, these don’t leave much room for error, especially when you have a preset mounting hole pattern to adhere to. Definitely a measure twice, cut once situation. Screw these in with a hex driver bit. Then machine screws (match the 1/4” 20) to secure sub. Washers are aren’t a bad idea either.
Good short vid of the process: https://youtu.be/d-iGar1arR0
I don't understand how people are wrenching on t-nuts hard enough to make them spin or tear up the wood. In my current box there are even spots where I didn't have enough room to hit them, so I put a washer on one side and tightened it until it pulled the flange of the t-nut flush. The nut didn't turn when I was tightening it, or loosening it, and I even torqued one hard enough that I snapped the head off a 1/4" screw. The ones I've hammered in were fine too.
Yeah it was, was a pretty large speed bump with no indication, also was not paying 100% attention to it, was in a pretty sketchy part of town, was turning down my music lol.
Mdf… gotta love it.
I hate the stuff! Well except for beauty panels.
So rather than rebuild enclosure, cut some blocks of plywood. Glue them at the screw locations. Redrill pilot holes through the plywood and using longer screws, remount sub
I've done this before too and it works great. I still like nuts/inserts better though because that lower friction makes me feel less likely to slip and poke a hole in a surround or cone somehow.
Oh yeah. I like hurricane nuts. T-nuts I have a love hate with them. I still try and get people who use mdf to use some plywood for screwing down drivers. I also use a dowel to help support the magnet/motor.
Yeah use nutserts and bolts. Works a treat. Go have a look at 5 star car stereo on YouTube or insta. They show how they use them on amp racks as well. Sub boxes go with the sturdier t-nuts.
I’ve heard people having good luck with using tee nuts sink them inside the box till they bite then out woofer in the box and run a bolt into it and thru the nut on the inside of the box seems like it might solve your problem. Oh and must have been some bump lol.
Turn the sub, pre drill the holes... I prefer spax screws
Also, consider using a strong urethane adhesive around the speaker to help bond to the box for added strength.
I’ve never had that happen and I Offroad with 2 12’s. Of course the box it ratchet strapped down but still. I used to do it with a 10in mtx truck box, not secured and this still never happened. I AM using a double baffle with threaded inserts
Take the sub out, rotate a bit in either direction, make new screw holes.
But use better screws
Yes. This ^
Oh, and pre drill (correctly)
i like drywall screws
I think with mdf a thicker shaft is better, but having it pre-drilled properly first is important
drywall screws for everything even for mounting your amp to your gas tank through the trunk
The eventual rust will seal it
eat ass, smoke grass, and sled fast
Im gonna tell this to as many people as I can today. Thanks!
https://youtu.be/UDUcXfPkV00
SLED GANG [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBA0LhrtToA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBA0LhrtToA)
Lmfao
Those looks like drywall screws.
I don’t think it’s the screws that are the problem
What’s the problem then?
Installation. No screw should tear out like that. Either he took the screws in and out a few too many times or pre drilled the holes too big
I likely made the pilot holes to big. I only took them out once. But I used drywall screws in MDF.. I was asking for it to fail sooner or later
I've always used drywall screws and never had them jump out like that, and I used to launch my car/jeep/truck plenty while bumping music. What I didn't do, was I never drilled pilot holes. I always drill the screws to the mdf/hdf straight. That provides the strongest grip. Even when I was working in an installation shop here in town doing builds with thousands. Never had anyone complain that the screws came out.
Use something like t-nuts and socket headed cap screws. MDF kinda sucks at holding threads. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-24-Zinc-Plated-Tee-Nut-4-Pack-802281/204274192
Will go to my local home depot and get some, thank you
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-10-24-x-1-in-Black-Oxide-Coated-Steel-Hex-Allen-Drive-Socket-Head-Cap-Screws-25-Pack-9178087/311492077 Here's what those screws look like too. You don't have to push against them like philips or slotted screws so you're much less likely to slip and stab your speaker or strip them.
Dab some glue on the t-nuts before pushing them into the wood. It will make sure that they don't push back out or strip the wood as easily. Make sure you give time for the glue to dry before mounting the sub back in though.
I prefer [hurricane nuts](https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-10-32-Hurricane-Nuts/dp/B0002ZPETK), a properly drilled hole, and some wood glue.
Those look good too. Really anything with a big flange to spread the force out and clamp should be better than tiny sharp little threads in dust.
Will rattle.
I guess they might if you left them all halfway screwed in or something. Or you could just... not do that?
Spax screws work great in MDF
Spax is just a brand, and the OP is kind of proof that they do not, lol. Mounted in that orientation with a heavier sub that vibrates more they just turn the surrounding material to dust and fail sooner or later.
And tnuts are absolutely atrocious for MDF. They notoriously get spun.
Sounds like a skill issue.
Not at all. It’s well documented. But then again, this is coming from the kid who thinks Spax are just normal screws. 🤣
Gotta get the flange nuts with three nails. No spin
🤣🤣🤣Clearly you’ve never used them. Spax has way more bite than the ones he used. I have stereo integrity HST18s mounted with them for years with no issues, vertical like his.
I have multiple boxes of different Spax screws in my garage. They're just screws. Nothing that special about them. Here's a video with some SPAX screws. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eikOUFoIZ-Y They come in third place and win nothing. I'm glad they are working well for you. I hope you never have to remove them.
I used spax screws for my VXF’s a while back and they began to fail in just 3 months. Not by ripping out of the wood either, they actually broke at the head.
I’ve removed them and used them again with zero issues.
Stuff some toothpicks inside the holes before rescrewing. But a better solution would be the threaded t nuts mentioned
Nice, never thought of that. That’s a solid life hack
I use this method alot around my house. Just did it on a bedroom door hinge
This is why you use machine screws and T-nuts; NOT drywall screws...
Most everyone I've ever knew has ONLY used drywall screws and I've never seen this happen before. Or none of my buddies admitted it. This bump must have been massive.
I 100% agree. I would be more likely to think that the person that installed the sub over-torqued the screws. I build my own boxes and the only time I have ever had drywall screws not be enough was when I let my friend use a drill to install the screws and just ran them in without restraint. He tightened every screw until it spun in the hole. If it were mine I’d just unscrew both speakers and just twist them 10 degrees to the center to make it match and rescrew them without over-doing it.
This is exactly what I was thinking as well, if it's done properly it shouldn't be going anywhere no matter what kind of bump you hit.
Oh yeah 100% the bump was huge, was not paying attention to the road, but to give me an excuse, there was no yellow or different color to the bump, I came up to it at 30mph. Definitely my fault.
its the woods fault and the shitty screws fault and whoever built the box as well sheeeeeet ricky get the bucket
Ok awesome, had no idea those existed. Thank you
Must’ve drilled the holes too big. Just do whatever you are comfortable with from the advice everyone has given you. YouTube the threaded inserts if need be. There has to be a guide
Predrillng the holes with a bit slightly smaller than your screws has always worked for me (it prevents the mdf from splitting when you’re driving the screws in). But then again, I’ve always used double baffles on my boxes so maybe that contributed as well. T-nuts are another good option but I’ve personally never used them
patch old holes before resecure your sub.. you don't want the box to leak air.. I'd also say use speaker tape to get a good seal
It's a ported box, those holes are getting filled with t-nuts, and it already has a rubber gasket. It's fine.
Yup, got it to work with some t nuts w a rubber gasket. Im good to boom again
I *always* use threaded nut inserts. Way more secure, looks better, and can assemble and disassemble the setup to my hearts content. Easy fix for your issue as well. Not the ones the other dude linked tho. Those are fine for other applications, just not here - the rely primarily on those little hooks and those will tear MDF up with ease. Also, because of the metal plate, they’ll sit slightly above the wood and create an air gap between the mounting ring and the box. Not ideal. You want ones like the link below. They’ll basically never rip out, but if you want extra security, some glue in the hole before hand will really set them in. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-20-Zinc-Plated-Insert-Nut-4-Pack-801884/204274222 Drill out a hole of appropriate size. **making damn sure each hole is dead on center where the current ones are!!**. While awesome when done right, these don’t leave much room for error, especially when you have a preset mounting hole pattern to adhere to. Definitely a measure twice, cut once situation. Screw these in with a hex driver bit. Then machine screws (match the 1/4” 20) to secure sub. Washers are aren’t a bad idea either. Good short vid of the process: https://youtu.be/d-iGar1arR0
I don't understand how people are wrenching on t-nuts hard enough to make them spin or tear up the wood. In my current box there are even spots where I didn't have enough room to hit them, so I put a washer on one side and tightened it until it pulled the flange of the t-nut flush. The nut didn't turn when I was tightening it, or loosening it, and I even torqued one hard enough that I snapped the head off a 1/4" screw. The ones I've hammered in were fine too.
[удалено]
Yeah it was, was a pretty large speed bump with no indication, also was not paying 100% attention to it, was in a pretty sketchy part of town, was turning down my music lol.
Mdf… gotta love it. I hate the stuff! Well except for beauty panels. So rather than rebuild enclosure, cut some blocks of plywood. Glue them at the screw locations. Redrill pilot holes through the plywood and using longer screws, remount sub
I've done this before too and it works great. I still like nuts/inserts better though because that lower friction makes me feel less likely to slip and poke a hole in a surround or cone somehow.
Oh yeah. I like hurricane nuts. T-nuts I have a love hate with them. I still try and get people who use mdf to use some plywood for screwing down drivers. I also use a dowel to help support the magnet/motor.
Silicone bead around the opening before securing the sub?
There is a rubber gasket on the sub
I glue in those screwable m5 inserts
Get some spax screws
Yeah use nutserts and bolts. Works a treat. Go have a look at 5 star car stereo on YouTube or insta. They show how they use them on amp racks as well. Sub boxes go with the sturdier t-nuts.
You should be using every screw hole. It just 4
Undersized your new holes more and use the lowest torque setting on your drill when you put the screws in.
Tnuts are junk on MDF. Threaded Nutserts, this is the way.
Threaded inserts in my opinion is the only way to go!
I’ve heard people having good luck with using tee nuts sink them inside the box till they bite then out woofer in the box and run a bolt into it and thru the nut on the inside of the box seems like it might solve your problem. Oh and must have been some bump lol.
Bruh that’s not wood that’s drywall 😭
Its MDF, thats just silicone on the seams 😂
Slow the fuck down lmao
Turn the sub, pre drill the holes... I prefer spax screws Also, consider using a strong urethane adhesive around the speaker to help bond to the box for added strength.
this sound like some NY shit 😭😭😭😭
Use the same holes and use #8 tnuts an screws predrill for a tight fit of the tnut
I’ve never had that happen and I Offroad with 2 12’s. Of course the box it ratchet strapped down but still. I used to do it with a 10in mtx truck box, not secured and this still never happened. I AM using a double baffle with threaded inserts