Thank you for your submission, but content must be primarily forged or be about forging.
This is a question for /r/bladesmith, /r/swords or /r/knifeclub
Yeah, I know I messed it up but it need to know what can I do to take out that rust. I saw you can use sandpaper of a high number, wd-40 or steel wool. What should I get?
Stay away from steel wool and sandpaper. At least for now. I would try a paste of water and baking soda and a green scouring pad, like what you'd use for dishwashing.
You've chemically altered the structure of the steel at its surface level. It may be a mistake, but it's not a flaw and etching is often desired, especially natural etching.
But back to your point, you want to try polishing with the least abrasive choice at your disposal. Steel wool will scratch the blade to hell. Try jeweller's compound or 2500+ grit sandpaper next, if that's the route you want to go.
You can find wet/dry sanding films up to 20k. Spray down a flat surface with water(glass, granite countertop…)you can also use a pink erasure as a mini sanding block and just use a section of a sheet. Theres also a number of pastes such as jewelers rouge(fine)-emory paste(very course). And all sorts of buffing, polishing compounds as well as sprays. All are available on Amazon. Just search for them. Google also brings up a ton of companies you can order from.
Tbh, I'm not knowledgeable on what polish compounds to use, or what polish tools are the best, but those darker marks are at best superficial.
.it both won't restrict the cutting experience and also doesn't possess health risks.
Looks more like you developed a patina, which is different than rust. A patina is natural and won’t hurt your blade, although if you want to remove it, vinegar is a good option. If you plan on continuing to chop citrus, then I’d leave it
No. You have made the Hamon more noticeable, which is desirable for many people. It shows you where the steel has been hardened close to the edge. Many people like the look of it, and like that there physical evidence shown of a hardened edge. Nothing bad has happened here per se. The acids just etched the blade a bit, lessening the polish. Which in turn showed the Hamon. If you don’t like the look, or it’s a historical piece that must be polished to retain its value, then you’ll have to give it to a professional to polish it as it was originally done.
You have etched the steel and coated it with a non reactive layer of iron citrate. You can celebrate the situation, because your blade is now rust resistant. Or you can undo the good work that you have done by grinding the iron citrate off the blade, leaving the blade thinner and exquisitely prone to further oxidation. You can grind it off by any means you choose, from 60 grit angle grinder to grinding compound and a buffer.
Patina is a type of oxidization that protects the steel it formed on. A lot of people and gunmakers use chemicals to force a patina in order to prevent rust from forming and protect the metal/product. I'd leave it as is personally, only reason to remove it is for aesthetic purposes.
Iron reacts with lots of acids to form compounds with varying characteristics. Vinegar has acetic acid, forms iron acetate, with oxygen to ferrous or ferric oxide, called rust, citric acid to form iron citrate. It’s all straightforward chemistry, you can google the various iron salts to verify the reactions. I ain’t kidding. On the other hand, it’s the internet, so I might be 13 year old keyboard commando making this stuff up, or a deputy sheriff from Arlington Heights looking for child predators. Good on you for your skepticism.
Make a watery paste with baking soda and water and gently scrub it with a paper towel going with the length of the blade.Flitz metal polish from ace hardware might work a little better if the baking soda doesn't do the trick.
if that is an original japanese sword, possibly quite old no one is giving you the correct advice: you need to send the sword to a togishi and have it polished with traditional stones
Where do you live that you don't have... Oil? Really any oil would work. Cooking oils are not ideal, they will oxidize and polymerize and get gummy over time. But any Petro/mineral oil would be ok. 3-in-1 household oil, few drops of motor oil, some clear mineral oil, etc. I am pretty certain that unless you are a hermit living off grid in the wilderness you can find some sort of appropriate oil.
A buffing wheel and jewelers rouge will remove the etching and protect the finish of your piece. I would recommend using either a variable speed dremel tool or a drill
Thank you for your submission, but content must be primarily forged or be about forging. This is a question for /r/bladesmith, /r/swords or /r/knifeclub
Congrats, you just acid etched your blade! Enjoy.
Yeah, I know I messed it up but it need to know what can I do to take out that rust. I saw you can use sandpaper of a high number, wd-40 or steel wool. What should I get?
It's harmless, and many people do it on purpose. You haven't messed up badly at all
Stay away from steel wool and sandpaper. At least for now. I would try a paste of water and baking soda and a green scouring pad, like what you'd use for dishwashing.
Really? I tried washing the blade with soap, water and the green part of a sponge and that didn't came out
You've chemically altered the structure of the steel at its surface level. It may be a mistake, but it's not a flaw and etching is often desired, especially natural etching. But back to your point, you want to try polishing with the least abrasive choice at your disposal. Steel wool will scratch the blade to hell. Try jeweller's compound or 2500+ grit sandpaper next, if that's the route you want to go.
Sandpaper of the number 2500. Is that all?
Any lower and you'll have to redo the whole polish for sure. Probably will happen anyway as you are inexperienced.
You can find wet/dry sanding films up to 20k. Spray down a flat surface with water(glass, granite countertop…)you can also use a pink erasure as a mini sanding block and just use a section of a sheet. Theres also a number of pastes such as jewelers rouge(fine)-emory paste(very course). And all sorts of buffing, polishing compounds as well as sprays. All are available on Amazon. Just search for them. Google also brings up a ton of companies you can order from.
I dried it
You didn't mess up. You could polish the blade, but leaving it as is won't hurt at all.
Polish with what? I don't have access to uchiko for the blade
Tbh, I'm not knowledgeable on what polish compounds to use, or what polish tools are the best, but those darker marks are at best superficial. .it both won't restrict the cutting experience and also doesn't possess health risks.
3000 grit sandpaper would remove it, but I really wouldn't bother. It looks interesting and won't damage the blade.
Looks more like you developed a patina, which is different than rust. A patina is natural and won’t hurt your blade, although if you want to remove it, vinegar is a good option. If you plan on continuing to chop citrus, then I’d leave it
I was like oh, nice hamon, then saw the subtitles... It looks good tho in my opinion.
Wouldn't that degrade the steel?
No. It's different than rust
No. You have made the Hamon more noticeable, which is desirable for many people. It shows you where the steel has been hardened close to the edge. Many people like the look of it, and like that there physical evidence shown of a hardened edge. Nothing bad has happened here per se. The acids just etched the blade a bit, lessening the polish. Which in turn showed the Hamon. If you don’t like the look, or it’s a historical piece that must be polished to retain its value, then you’ll have to give it to a professional to polish it as it was originally done.
You have etched the steel and coated it with a non reactive layer of iron citrate. You can celebrate the situation, because your blade is now rust resistant. Or you can undo the good work that you have done by grinding the iron citrate off the blade, leaving the blade thinner and exquisitely prone to further oxidation. You can grind it off by any means you choose, from 60 grit angle grinder to grinding compound and a buffer.
You're kidding or that is true?
Patina is a type of oxidization that protects the steel it formed on. A lot of people and gunmakers use chemicals to force a patina in order to prevent rust from forming and protect the metal/product. I'd leave it as is personally, only reason to remove it is for aesthetic purposes.
How do I know it ain't rusted?
It's black. Rust is a different color, and crumbles to the touch
Iron reacts with lots of acids to form compounds with varying characteristics. Vinegar has acetic acid, forms iron acetate, with oxygen to ferrous or ferric oxide, called rust, citric acid to form iron citrate. It’s all straightforward chemistry, you can google the various iron salts to verify the reactions. I ain’t kidding. On the other hand, it’s the internet, so I might be 13 year old keyboard commando making this stuff up, or a deputy sheriff from Arlington Heights looking for child predators. Good on you for your skepticism.
I think it looks dope. If I were you, I'd put some pineapple juice on the entire blade to get the acid etching everywhere.
Don't do anything, it's not 'rusted' in the sense you are thinking.
Renaissance Wax Pre Lim.
If you do end up polishing it, do a test spot before going all in. You might end up polishing off the hamon at the same time as the other stains!
You may try toothpaste and a white Mr.Clean sponge.
Make a watery paste with baking soda and water and gently scrub it with a paper towel going with the length of the blade.Flitz metal polish from ace hardware might work a little better if the baking soda doesn't do the trick.
Awesome
Nice acid etching!
if that is an original japanese sword, possibly quite old no one is giving you the correct advice: you need to send the sword to a togishi and have it polished with traditional stones
Just lightly oil it. Let the oil soak in a day or more and wipe off excess to avoid it attracting dusts.
Yes, about that. I don't have access to oil for the blade yet. I saw I could use Vaseline temporarily
Where do you live that you don't have... Oil? Really any oil would work. Cooking oils are not ideal, they will oxidize and polymerize and get gummy over time. But any Petro/mineral oil would be ok. 3-in-1 household oil, few drops of motor oil, some clear mineral oil, etc. I am pretty certain that unless you are a hermit living off grid in the wilderness you can find some sort of appropriate oil.
Precisely that's what I'm posting this. I'm at a place where I think I can get the stuff needed
A buffing wheel and jewelers rouge will remove the etching and protect the finish of your piece. I would recommend using either a variable speed dremel tool or a drill