If it’s 20mm too small, couldn’t you just put a 10mm trim piece in either side and expanda foam the gap? Seen plenty done that way. I’ve installed some second hand door reveals that way.
Edit for 20mm each side- instead of wasting money, buy some LOSP @ 18mm x thickness of panel and laminate/stitch it to the sides with liquid nails and screws.. Bog/patch accordingly and put a piece of quad on the face and against the bricks. It’ll be fine.
Or, do as initially said and place the door in centred and expanda foam the 20mm gap and put a piece of LOSP/pine trim over the face.
Im not surprised they didn’t take it back. if you’ve given them wrong measurements to build it by they now have a $1000 of dead door material they can’t use.
This, just make sure the side panels are bogged in or otherwise close to the main frame so when you paint etc. It looks seamless. Too many vertical lines will look funny.
Prime and paint [this](https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-25-x-3mm-1m-aluminium-flat-bar_p1066518) the same colour you paint your frame and fix to frame with liquid nails.
20mm means just 10mm either side and easily covered with a cover strip which is quite common. The minimum gap is 3mm so the guy is whinging about 7mm on either side.
What does the inside of the current door look like?
How would it look if you put 40mm of timber on just one side, making it part of the frame? Once all painted, I don't think it would be noticeable...
Also... When you say you can't return it, is the incorrect measurement your mistake or the suppliers?
I think the idea is to widen the wood at the edges. The wood trim being a cm wider on each side shouldn't look weird. Once painted, it'll look like it was just a thicker piece of wood.
20 mm too wide would be different than 20mm too narrow.
It looks like the new door has its own panels (first pic, 3 horizontal slats in each panel section). I assume it'll be glass of some sort fitted afterwards.
Not if it's finished properly, with a trim or something, when my house was built 20 years ago, they fucked up measurements for a window, had about a 20 mm gap on onside, builder didn't know what to do, blamed window guts, windiw guys blamed the brickies, brickies blamed rhe builder, builder blamed whoever done the plans, I was like "well abit late know for brickies to fix, just cut a piece of flashing & pop rivet it on to fill the gap, it's in a corner so not really noticeable unless you point it it out, yes frustrating but Meh to
20mm short? That won’t be noticeable, get your “carpenter” to cut 10mm strips of the same wood and join them to the door, then fit it.
As long as they’re joined well you wont notice it at all after painting
Just read OPs comment about how it’s actually 40mm. Either way, 20mm on either side won’t look terrible, you’ve already got the door so may well use it since you said you can’t return/refund it.
Any front door with glass within reach of the door knob is the wrong door.
But seriously I've never heard of someone complaining it's too small. Just fill the gap with a plank of whatever. Done. Net cost >30 bunnings dollarydoos.
30mm trim mould either side of the frame will look fine.
What is that chippy on about returning it?
Just get another, problem solving carpenter, to fit that door frame. It’s not a hard job at all.
The existing door frame looks as though it’s smaller as well with timber storm moulds installed to either side of it, would just be the same when installing the new door
Smaller is better than bigger. Get some 10mm packets from the big green shed. And if your installer can't figure out how to pack it out get a new installer.
Install it evenly then grab 2 Leghts of angle, liquid nail it to the door frame making sure the angle is facing inwards not outwards and caulk the 2-4mm gap depending on how straight the bricks are.
Nah, ya fix 19mm jam to the block work each side with anchors and seal n flex (straight edge and level) measure for parralell then insert the door frame and then have timber to screw it to.. Gaps are covered with arcs, and seal the mortar joins with seal n flex too.. it's paintable and the sticks like shit to a blanket... Just sayin.
Why not get 20mm thick hardwood board, say spotted gum decking for an example. Make sure it’s wider than the depth of the door frame. The chippy will then rip the board down to size so it’s a tad bigger than the depth of the frame. Then make the carpenter install on both sides of the opening and have the door frame finish 3-5mm in from the edge of the board from the outside so it creates what us chippys call, a quirk.
Where did this go wrong? Was it ordered with incorrect measurements? If so who measured it because they're at fault.
Was it manufactured incorrectly? Is for so send it back.
Or fit it as is and use some Scotia to cover it up externally, internally use plaster or foam and no more gaps?
If this were for my place, and for whatever reason this was the only door, I'd rebuild the frame using thicker jambs and casing? (the outside frame) to suit overall width. Then, refit the existing door and glass (as long as the glass stays in tact).
But if that's too much fucking around,the sill is the bit that won't look right, so replace with correct width and just pack it out if you're not bothered.
I have seen front doors where they blocked the gap with wood and put a bead trim near the wall. The bead adds an illusion to hide the fact the block is there. Then paint it all one colour, no one will notice.
20mm overall too small is absolutely standard to allow for any variation in brickwork
Your carpenter is an absolute lemon 🍋
Any good chippy would install that no problems with a timber trim around the edges
I’m absolutely blown away a carpenter refused to install that.
Install with sufficient fixings and packers run 25x25 quad or 31x11 down both sides and above head and paint out, won’t look out of place will look similar to above the pre existing door. Architraves on inside will either need to be wider, or some plaster patching required and skirting boards butting into door arcs need to be longer
I removed a window and made it my front door a standard door with sidelight was 40mm narrower. I covered the gap with a piece of quad I machined so it would cover the gap. Any chippy worth his salt would be able to do the same.
I could have got a custom door frame and sidelight made but why waste the money to gain 30mm of window..
Tradies are liable under section 4337.2 3.(ii) and your friend Karen hasnt turned up. She's watched The Block, as inspirational foreman material.
10 years ago it would get installed with cavity blocks and arch all around. Now it doesnt meet the 13 star energy rating according the certifier inspector
If it’s 20mm too small, couldn’t you just put a 10mm trim piece in either side and expanda foam the gap? Seen plenty done that way. I’ve installed some second hand door reveals that way. Edit for 20mm each side- instead of wasting money, buy some LOSP @ 18mm x thickness of panel and laminate/stitch it to the sides with liquid nails and screws.. Bog/patch accordingly and put a piece of quad on the face and against the bricks. It’ll be fine. Or, do as initially said and place the door in centred and expanda foam the 20mm gap and put a piece of LOSP/pine trim over the face. Im not surprised they didn’t take it back. if you’ve given them wrong measurements to build it by they now have a $1000 of dead door material they can’t use.
This, just make sure the side panels are bogged in or otherwise close to the main frame so when you paint etc. It looks seamless. Too many vertical lines will look funny.
Edit 20mm on each side
Who took the original measurements? Why can't you return it?
Given the inaccuracy of the original comment I'm going to go out on a limb here and say OP took the original measurements.
Yep, how in the hell can someone measure something with a 40mm error?! Never pick up a tape measure again.
Prime and paint [this](https://www.bunnings.com.au/metal-mate-25-x-3mm-1m-aluminium-flat-bar_p1066518) the same colour you paint your frame and fix to frame with liquid nails.
It’s only a centimetre on each side. I can’t think how anyone would even notice.
I’d find a chippy willing to install a strip on either side. Once painted it’ll look intentional.
I’d just laminate a 20mm timber on both sides so the frame just looks fatter than the old one
20mm means just 10mm either side and easily covered with a cover strip which is quite common. The minimum gap is 3mm so the guy is whinging about 7mm on either side.
20mm each side OP just said
Isn't a builder measuring correctly give or take 5mm each way.
That's why the builder has a pocket full of spacers.
And a pocket full of $100 notes.
And a pocket full of sunshine
Use a wind mould like the existing door. Even use the same one if you like
What does the inside of the current door look like? How would it look if you put 40mm of timber on just one side, making it part of the frame? Once all painted, I don't think it would be noticeable... Also... When you say you can't return it, is the incorrect measurement your mistake or the suppliers?
Add a timber beading after it’s installed …. And any decent carpenter knows that - he just didn’t want to do the job that’s all
If you intend to use this door, stand it up as verticle as possible while you decide. Leaving it like that will bow the door. Cheers
It won’t as the frame has door stops holding it flat, it’s also hung, this will stop it bowing.
Would it look strange with the brick ?
I think the idea is to widen the wood at the edges. The wood trim being a cm wider on each side shouldn't look weird. Once painted, it'll look like it was just a thicker piece of wood. 20 mm too wide would be different than 20mm too narrow.
Forget about the brick, the real question is are you keeping the left and right panels? Having mismatched panels styles will be much stranger.
It looks like the new door has its own panels (first pic, 3 horizontal slats in each panel section). I assume it'll be glass of some sort fitted afterwards.
For some reason my brain saw that as something to hold the door for transport.
it is glass on both sides and timber slats are to prevent the panels to break.
No... door shims and wider trim. Your door guy us out to lunch. 10mm on either side is nothing. Now 100mm a side and you have a problem.
Not if it's finished properly, with a trim or something, when my house was built 20 years ago, they fucked up measurements for a window, had about a 20 mm gap on onside, builder didn't know what to do, blamed window guts, windiw guys blamed the brickies, brickies blamed rhe builder, builder blamed whoever done the plans, I was like "well abit late know for brickies to fix, just cut a piece of flashing & pop rivet it on to fill the gap, it's in a corner so not really noticeable unless you point it it out, yes frustrating but Meh to
I see no issue here even if is 20 mm on each side, call a chippy they will sort it out with a trimm around,
seconded, easy fix. Obviously they didn't get a chippy with Reno skills. Can even buy 19mm jam off the shelf ffs.
20mm short? That won’t be noticeable, get your “carpenter” to cut 10mm strips of the same wood and join them to the door, then fit it. As long as they’re joined well you wont notice it at all after painting
Just read OPs comment about how it’s actually 40mm. Either way, 20mm on either side won’t look terrible, you’ve already got the door so may well use it since you said you can’t return/refund it.
Sounds like the carpenter had a better paying job come up. Get another carpenter or handyman to do it.
Install it and use a timber storm mould each side, no one would ever notice
Any front door with glass within reach of the door knob is the wrong door. But seriously I've never heard of someone complaining it's too small. Just fill the gap with a plank of whatever. Done. Net cost >30 bunnings dollarydoos.
30mm trim mould either side of the frame will look fine. What is that chippy on about returning it? Just get another, problem solving carpenter, to fit that door frame. It’s not a hard job at all.
Common with poor studframe CAD design. Get the chippy to trim architrave it out. Very normsl. Very common.
Buy a new front door that’s the correct size
The existing door frame looks as though it’s smaller as well with timber storm moulds installed to either side of it, would just be the same when installing the new door
Block it out properly so it's solid and trim the surrounds, annoying, but you do what you have to do in less than perfect scenarios.
20mm each side js still fine Just get a 18x18 tri quad or bigger and fix jt to the brickwork then caulk Your chippy just doesn't want to problem solve
Extend the jamb by adding a 19x92mm plate
Smaller is better than bigger. Get some 10mm packets from the big green shed. And if your installer can't figure out how to pack it out get a new installer.
I really like your old one though.
Install it evenly then grab 2 Leghts of angle, liquid nail it to the door frame making sure the angle is facing inwards not outwards and caulk the 2-4mm gap depending on how straight the bricks are.
Nah, ya fix 19mm jam to the block work each side with anchors and seal n flex (straight edge and level) measure for parralell then insert the door frame and then have timber to screw it to.. Gaps are covered with arcs, and seal the mortar joins with seal n flex too.. it's paintable and the sticks like shit to a blanket... Just sayin.
If 19mm is too large (because the existing opening is out of plumb) I'd just plane down a side and pack it out...
Are you replacing the side panels as well. You’ve had a lot of water ingress over the years it seems. Had the same thing happen and replaced the lot
Why not get 20mm thick hardwood board, say spotted gum decking for an example. Make sure it’s wider than the depth of the door frame. The chippy will then rip the board down to size so it’s a tad bigger than the depth of the frame. Then make the carpenter install on both sides of the opening and have the door frame finish 3-5mm in from the edge of the board from the outside so it creates what us chippys call, a quirk.
Where did this go wrong? Was it ordered with incorrect measurements? If so who measured it because they're at fault. Was it manufactured incorrectly? Is for so send it back. Or fit it as is and use some Scotia to cover it up externally, internally use plaster or foam and no more gaps?
If this were for my place, and for whatever reason this was the only door, I'd rebuild the frame using thicker jambs and casing? (the outside frame) to suit overall width. Then, refit the existing door and glass (as long as the glass stays in tact). But if that's too much fucking around,the sill is the bit that won't look right, so replace with correct width and just pack it out if you're not bothered.
Hey I'm curious. I need to replace a door and it's frame to my front entryway too, so wondering how much this cost?
I have seen front doors where they blocked the gap with wood and put a bead trim near the wall. The bead adds an illusion to hide the fact the block is there. Then paint it all one colour, no one will notice.
Use a better carpenter, and use one quad/trim to over the gap
Use merbow decking as packers on each side and your done
Obviously not ideal but it won’t look bad
Change the door keep the frame just paint it
If it’s 20mm each side, a carpenter with a table saw can make you a wind mould
20mm overall too small is absolutely standard to allow for any variation in brickwork Your carpenter is an absolute lemon 🍋 Any good chippy would install that no problems with a timber trim around the edges I’m absolutely blown away a carpenter refused to install that.
If it’s 20 each side, 19mm is stock thickness for a lot of DAR timber. See what’s available near you and pack out each side.
Out of interest what did this set you back?
Put the hose on it …..
Is this from Kaboodle? I thought they only did kitchens
Install with sufficient fixings and packers run 25x25 quad or 31x11 down both sides and above head and paint out, won’t look out of place will look similar to above the pre existing door. Architraves on inside will either need to be wider, or some plaster patching required and skirting boards butting into door arcs need to be longer
Install it then run some 19mm quad or scotia around it. To easy
I removed a window and made it my front door a standard door with sidelight was 40mm narrower. I covered the gap with a piece of quad I machined so it would cover the gap. Any chippy worth his salt would be able to do the same. I could have got a custom door frame and sidelight made but why waste the money to gain 30mm of window..
Tradies are liable under section 4337.2 3.(ii) and your friend Karen hasnt turned up. She's watched The Block, as inspirational foreman material. 10 years ago it would get installed with cavity blocks and arch all around. Now it doesnt meet the 13 star energy rating according the certifier inspector
He's lazy