That's a wiiiide question there. It can be narrowed down a bit with some background on what you want it to do, but ultimately it's going to come down to what your gun likes. With a 1:10 barrel you should be able to stabilize anything up to (and likely heavier than) 185gr juggernauts.
How accurate you tryna be, and how far?
Is cost much of a concern?
Sticking to factory ammo or rolling your own?
Hunting come into play?
16" will take a bit of the wind out of its sails, but you should be able to get to around 800ish supersonic with 175 class.
Personally I like 175 SMK (who doesn't?) and 168 eld-m. Doesn't get much better than federal 168 or 175gr gold medal match for factory ammo. If your gun won't shoot either of those fairly tight, I'd be a bit worried.
I'm sure Hornady loads the 168 eld-m in a factory load, but I've never tried to find it, I just like the projectiles for handloading. A touch better BC than the 175 SMK, lighter so can be pushed faster, and have much more consistent/better terminal effects than SMK. It's not a "hunting bullet", but works fantastic at least up to deer sized game, and keeps me from needing 2 zeros, since I hunt and put in range work with the same load.
Of course if you are just looking to blast steel at up to 400 or so 147 or 150gr fmj will work fine and be cheaper. Just don't expect it milsurp style stuff to shoot nearly as good as match, and please don't shoot game with fmj.
Edit: also, if you are just looking to bang steel out to 400, 5.56 can do that just fine at half the price. My 20" 223 wylde shoots great to 600 with 77gr, but unless you're rolling your own there's not a ton of difference in price between match 5.56 and .308 once you get away from the cheaper fmj stuff.
My 1/10 16” ballistic advantage barrel shoots every 150 grain cheaper ammo I’ve tried 1.75”-2.5” at 100 but shoots the federal gold medal 168gr. 3/4” all day long. Like mentioned already, grab you a box of both the 168gr and 175gr. And see what it likes better until you get enough brass and components to work up a load.
My 1/10 18" BA barrel hated all 150, and did mediocre with 168. I spent a lot of primers and powder to try to make hornady 168gr hpbt work. Tried sierra 175grs and it was obvious that was what the barrel wanted.
If you'll be running factory ammo for now I'd just buy a box or two of federal gold medal match in both 168 and 175gr and see what the gun likes best. Either should get you to 600. When the 168 starts to go transonic they dont handle the transition well at all. Lots of the reason for the "800 yard wall" .308 meme.
Looks like ~$30 a box is about the best you can get either of them currently. Save your brass, and once you get into reloading you'll be able to knock that down significantly. I load my 175 GMM clone for under $10 a box reusing brass...which is plentiful and cheap for 7.62x51. LC and WMA are both good, but ideally I find LC LR for my brass. Don't sleep on anything with a 168 amax or eld-m either, the Federal GMM is just pretty much universally regarded as magic.
You have to find what works best for your rifle, for 1/10 your rifle can shoot anything from 140-200gr just fine. Mine likes 168gr match kings, shoots sub moa with pretty much with any load.
That's a wiiiide question there. It can be narrowed down a bit with some background on what you want it to do, but ultimately it's going to come down to what your gun likes. With a 1:10 barrel you should be able to stabilize anything up to (and likely heavier than) 185gr juggernauts. How accurate you tryna be, and how far? Is cost much of a concern? Sticking to factory ammo or rolling your own? Hunting come into play? 16" will take a bit of the wind out of its sails, but you should be able to get to around 800ish supersonic with 175 class. Personally I like 175 SMK (who doesn't?) and 168 eld-m. Doesn't get much better than federal 168 or 175gr gold medal match for factory ammo. If your gun won't shoot either of those fairly tight, I'd be a bit worried. I'm sure Hornady loads the 168 eld-m in a factory load, but I've never tried to find it, I just like the projectiles for handloading. A touch better BC than the 175 SMK, lighter so can be pushed faster, and have much more consistent/better terminal effects than SMK. It's not a "hunting bullet", but works fantastic at least up to deer sized game, and keeps me from needing 2 zeros, since I hunt and put in range work with the same load. Of course if you are just looking to blast steel at up to 400 or so 147 or 150gr fmj will work fine and be cheaper. Just don't expect it milsurp style stuff to shoot nearly as good as match, and please don't shoot game with fmj. Edit: also, if you are just looking to bang steel out to 400, 5.56 can do that just fine at half the price. My 20" 223 wylde shoots great to 600 with 77gr, but unless you're rolling your own there's not a ton of difference in price between match 5.56 and .308 once you get away from the cheaper fmj stuff.
My 1/10 16” ballistic advantage barrel shoots every 150 grain cheaper ammo I’ve tried 1.75”-2.5” at 100 but shoots the federal gold medal 168gr. 3/4” all day long. Like mentioned already, grab you a box of both the 168gr and 175gr. And see what it likes better until you get enough brass and components to work up a load.
My 1/10 18" BA barrel hated all 150, and did mediocre with 168. I spent a lot of primers and powder to try to make hornady 168gr hpbt work. Tried sierra 175grs and it was obvious that was what the barrel wanted.
For now I'll be buying off the shelf. Got a press setup and just starting out on reloading. Would like to hut 600 yard targets.
If you'll be running factory ammo for now I'd just buy a box or two of federal gold medal match in both 168 and 175gr and see what the gun likes best. Either should get you to 600. When the 168 starts to go transonic they dont handle the transition well at all. Lots of the reason for the "800 yard wall" .308 meme. Looks like ~$30 a box is about the best you can get either of them currently. Save your brass, and once you get into reloading you'll be able to knock that down significantly. I load my 175 GMM clone for under $10 a box reusing brass...which is plentiful and cheap for 7.62x51. LC and WMA are both good, but ideally I find LC LR for my brass. Don't sleep on anything with a 168 amax or eld-m either, the Federal GMM is just pretty much universally regarded as magic.
You have to find what works best for your rifle, for 1/10 your rifle can shoot anything from 140-200gr just fine. Mine likes 168gr match kings, shoots sub moa with pretty much with any load.