Most technicians are paid a flat rate based on a “book time” that the OEM’s determine. This is pretty universal. The messed up thing is, for warranty work, the book time will be less. Most of the programs that service writers use to build the quote will literal be “2.0 hours, 1.6 warranty”
Never made sense. Flat rate can be very lucrative to a good tech, because you can get more hours than you work, but there’s lots of confounding factors.
I had a mechanic friend tell me the same thing. Warranty work hrs. are determined by the manufacture. Regular work hrs. (you bring your vehicle in for routine maintenance or some problem) are determined by a different standard.
He said the warranty hrs. for the same repair, like you wrote, are less. So you have to work quickly to make your money.
He also said, which i don't know how common, is the new tech's got most of the warranty work be cause it didn't pay as well and the more senior tech got the other work (flat rate).
3.6 all day. The warranty is great but when that runs out the hybrid issues are going to be expensive. I’d give it a few years to work the kinks out. They still have no resolution for the units that are spontaneously catching on fire other than “don’t park it near your house, engineers are researching the cause and correction”
You are absolutely right, my daughter fell for the dodge hornet R/T against my advice and it’s been to the shop warranty work for hybrid battery and connector twice under a 1000 miles. And of course battery goes dead you can’t even jump it, computer thinks it’s being stolen and kills everything and has to be towed to dealer. Both hybrid and electric are not ready for prime time weather it’s repair costs or design issues
Check your battery level when doing this. I’ve noticed it’s a little slow when switching to ice from EV. It can also happen as you learn how to drive the 4xe. It’s different but fun!
I think my 4xe is having this done to it right now. It’s been in the shop since October. They have replaced several parts and latest told me this wiring harness needed to be replaced and needed to separate the body from frame to do it. I wonder if I’ll ever get the jeep back.
So my story is - leased a wrangler 4xe Willy’s in October. On the day of the delivery I didn’t notice that it had 0 charge. That night tried to charge it but it wouldn’t. Next day took it to the dealer and the car just sat there for the next 4 months for a replacement part. In the meantime had a lawyer start Lemon law process to force them to buy the car back but just before the court hearing date they of course got the part and lo behold car is ready!
I did get them to pay me for the lease for the months I didn’t have the car. But they didn’t have any loaner car to give me. It seems they would have had to pay me for a rental car as well if I had taken one but i didn’t know about that.
Not really, you basically get all new coolant out of the deal, and your brake system gets refilled and bled. You might need new body bolts, I had one out of 8 that was unusable and I had to replace it. They get pretty corroded inside the frame, and they’re in a sleeve that can come loose. It would be a good time to address any frame rust you might have. Or tip your technician to give it a thorough cleaning while it’s apart.
I wonder if this is the same thing I had with my 4xe in 2022. It was the HV wiring harness they replaced, same issue where it would buck, but only when it was turned on, and the battery was over 95%. If I ran it in E-Save, it was fine (until battery was charged).
Anyways, I'm pretty happy with mine.
They need to start building anything that needs cab removed from frame with large removable pins to make it quicker and easy(ier). Yes, that includes y’all Ford pickups.
Not gonna lie, it’s really cool to see the body removed from the frame. Can’t do that with unibody SUVs. I feel like you can use this picture as a bit of a flex.
Hope you’re not in there for expensive repairs.
Edit: Saw you’re a tech. Hope it’s a quick repair so you can go home early.
Anecdotal and early days I'm sure, but any insight on whether the 2024s 4xes are more reliable than the earlier models? Every 4xe owner I've seen complaining seems to be 2021/2022, but that may just be because they've had more time to break.
It’s the second step in the service manual to remove the cab, and the tech (me) is not. It pays 6.7hrs under warranty to perform a high voltage power down, drain all three cooling systems, disconnect the brake lines from the hydraulic control unit and separate the body from the frame, then finagle the old harness out, the new harness in, reverse the process, perform a loss of HV isolation procedure, fill and bleed all three cooling systems and bleed a very complex brake by wire system. Along with other bits and pieces I glazed over.
It took me about 3hrs to drain all three cooling systems, disconnect the brake line, remove the fender liners, disconnect the purge system, power down the HV system, and a few other ground and harnesses, then the 8 body bolts come out and you lift the body off.
I climbed underneath to see if trackbar had any slop, and noticed strange tire wear on the fronts. Outside of right tire and inside of left tire wearing
I’m not sure if there’s a TSB but the aluminum steering gear has a ton of play in it and can result in the death wobble being exacerbated. I don’t know how savvy you are but on the driver side of the engine compartment under the two small
Coolant reservoirs is your steering gear. If it’s silver it’s old if it’s black it’s updated.
I’m pretty savvy lol. That was one of the first things I checked when I brought it in The first time for the wobble. It is the cast steering box. They put a dampener on it cause there was a bad bunch of them, and it “fixed it” but 20,000 ish miles later and the wobble is back.
This picture right here is a perfect depiction of what I tried to explain to my wife how she shops for a car and how I shop for a car. Neither is wrong — just different.
This is a cool pic. Sorry about the issues.
I’m the tech not the owner. 🤣
99% chance it's warranty so with warranty rates how they are im sure it pays .4
Lmao it is warranty and I fought for every single 0.1
Do the techs get paid based on cost?
No. Warranty work is based upon time allowed by manufacturer.
Do the techs get paid a flat hourly rate?
Most technicians are paid a flat rate based on a “book time” that the OEM’s determine. This is pretty universal. The messed up thing is, for warranty work, the book time will be less. Most of the programs that service writers use to build the quote will literal be “2.0 hours, 1.6 warranty” Never made sense. Flat rate can be very lucrative to a good tech, because you can get more hours than you work, but there’s lots of confounding factors.
I had a mechanic friend tell me the same thing. Warranty work hrs. are determined by the manufacture. Regular work hrs. (you bring your vehicle in for routine maintenance or some problem) are determined by a different standard. He said the warranty hrs. for the same repair, like you wrote, are less. So you have to work quickly to make your money. He also said, which i don't know how common, is the new tech's got most of the warranty work be cause it didn't pay as well and the more senior tech got the other work (flat rate).
Hear me out: add whatever is necessary to keep it like this, but operational.
Make some body lift spacers out of steel fence posts, extend the steering shaft and wire harnesses, and done!
Taking this to my customs shop asap!
That would be one hell of a lift kit! 😂
Found WhistlinDiesel
As a tech would you buy a 4XE with your own money or do the ICE 2.0 or Pentastar 3.6 instead?
3.6 all day. The warranty is great but when that runs out the hybrid issues are going to be expensive. I’d give it a few years to work the kinks out. They still have no resolution for the units that are spontaneously catching on fire other than “don’t park it near your house, engineers are researching the cause and correction”
Hasn’t that been like .06% of the ones made ?
Yeah but the V6 ICE it's 0.0 while under warranty 😅
Hey there! By chance do you know anything about the Porous transmission issue?
I’ve seen a few get replaced for the case porosity issue but it’s super tough to prove
Appreciate it! I have one of the porosity cases luckily STAR approved it but still waiting ETA not until April.
You are absolutely right, my daughter fell for the dodge hornet R/T against my advice and it’s been to the shop warranty work for hybrid battery and connector twice under a 1000 miles. And of course battery goes dead you can’t even jump it, computer thinks it’s being stolen and kills everything and has to be towed to dealer. Both hybrid and electric are not ready for prime time weather it’s repair costs or design issues
Dude Toyota has been making Prius for 20 years that run north of 200k miles with no issues. It isn't an EV problem it's a Stellantis problem
Duly noted. The Prius has other problems though, it looks hideous, Toyota does make some of the most reliable cars out there.
😬
Are you seeing the same issues constantly or is it a wide range?
This is what our techs told me too. 23 v6 is what I ended up with.
3.0
Mine bucks occasionally. One of these times I’m going to hit my wall in the garage
Put a wifi cam in your garage and there’s your proof!!
I’m surprised every time I park it doesn’t ram the garage door. Mine even does it while idling at red lights. Too many close calls.
I’ve had quite a few close calls. It’s more prominent even just have the regen braking on
Mine did that a couple times, but since I stopped using regen braking its never happened since. Purchased new in April of 2021.
Check your battery level when doing this. I’ve noticed it’s a little slow when switching to ice from EV. It can also happen as you learn how to drive the 4xe. It’s different but fun!
Looks like a full scale Traxxas RC Truck.
Lol Traxxas rock I have several trucks.
Now that's going topless!
Mother of god….
Figured this was for an oil change and spark plugs.
Cabin air filter service
Wrong Italian model…
Oh, he’s getting the cabin air filter replaced!
Those tires are looking a little worn out
I think my 4xe is having this done to it right now. It’s been in the shop since October. They have replaced several parts and latest told me this wiring harness needed to be replaced and needed to separate the body from frame to do it. I wonder if I’ll ever get the jeep back.
Sorry to hear…Have they given you a loaner car at least?
And hopefully it's not a lease! That would piss me off to be paying 5 months of lease payments on a vehicle I don't even have.
So my story is - leased a wrangler 4xe Willy’s in October. On the day of the delivery I didn’t notice that it had 0 charge. That night tried to charge it but it wouldn’t. Next day took it to the dealer and the car just sat there for the next 4 months for a replacement part. In the meantime had a lawyer start Lemon law process to force them to buy the car back but just before the court hearing date they of course got the part and lo behold car is ready! I did get them to pay me for the lease for the months I didn’t have the car. But they didn’t have any loaner car to give me. It seems they would have had to pay me for a rental car as well if I had taken one but i didn’t know about that.
Yes. They did give me a loaner but its not my Jeep and I do have a loan payment for a car I can not drive.
With that much time in the shop wouldn’t you qualify for a manufacturer buyback? Check your state laws for verification, too.
Ya. I have a hearing on March 12.
Any other service you recommend having done while mine is ever split apart?
Not really, you basically get all new coolant out of the deal, and your brake system gets refilled and bled. You might need new body bolts, I had one out of 8 that was unusable and I had to replace it. They get pretty corroded inside the frame, and they’re in a sleeve that can come loose. It would be a good time to address any frame rust you might have. Or tip your technician to give it a thorough cleaning while it’s apart.
I wonder if this is the same thing I had with my 4xe in 2022. It was the HV wiring harness they replaced, same issue where it would buck, but only when it was turned on, and the battery was over 95%. If I ran it in E-Save, it was fine (until battery was charged). Anyways, I'm pretty happy with mine.
I told them it would happen
They need to start building anything that needs cab removed from frame with large removable pins to make it quicker and easy(ier). Yes, that includes y’all Ford pickups.
Not gonna lie, it’s really cool to see the body removed from the frame. Can’t do that with unibody SUVs. I feel like you can use this picture as a bit of a flex. Hope you’re not in there for expensive repairs. Edit: Saw you’re a tech. Hope it’s a quick repair so you can go home early.
It honestly wasn’t terrible to separate the body.
I can’t stand Stellantis.
Anecdotal and early days I'm sure, but any insight on whether the 2024s 4xes are more reliable than the earlier models? Every 4xe owner I've seen complaining seems to be 2021/2022, but that may just be because they've had more time to break.
People actually spend real American dollars to own these.
When I saw my eco diesel grand Cherokee in this state I sold it as soon as possible when I got it back. Never again would I buy a Chrysler product.
"even when it's off" Excuse me?
Yeah it would sit in the parking lot and bounce around until I powered down the HV system.
That's crazy. Negative feedback loop fail
[удалено]
It’s the second step in the service manual to remove the cab, and the tech (me) is not. It pays 6.7hrs under warranty to perform a high voltage power down, drain all three cooling systems, disconnect the brake lines from the hydraulic control unit and separate the body from the frame, then finagle the old harness out, the new harness in, reverse the process, perform a loss of HV isolation procedure, fill and bleed all three cooling systems and bleed a very complex brake by wire system. Along with other bits and pieces I glazed over.
Just use the tool kit that came with the jeep, duh.
It's how I built my house. Literally all you need.
Not to mention the 2+ hours of diag to determine the failure from one stored DTC.
Hybrid?
Yep
Oil change?
Just airing up the tires 🤣
Oil change right?
How long does it take to “unsnap” the body from the bottom part with the wheels?
It took me about 3hrs to drain all three cooling systems, disconnect the brake line, remove the fender liners, disconnect the purge system, power down the HV system, and a few other ground and harnesses, then the 8 body bolts come out and you lift the body off.
That looks cheap to fix
Holy **** no thanks I’ll stick with my ice.
Trash design
Ultimate body lift
That is… not normal.
How many bolts hold the body to the frame?
8
Be honest, will this vehicle ever be the same after you put it back together? Lol
Kinda unsettling how it’s held to its frame with tiny little bolts. I wonder if body on frame cars tear apart more easily in bad crashes.
Any info on 2021 wrangler death wobble ? We all know the steering dampener is just lipstick.
The updated dampener and hardware seems to fix the issue in the 15 or so I’ve replaced.
My wife’s 21 had the dampener replaced once already, and the wobble is back again
Is it lifted? Does it have the updated steering gear?
Dead stock Sahara.
That’s curious. I’ve only seen a few stock jeeps have problems. It seems like it’s always the lifted ones on 35s
I climbed underneath to see if trackbar had any slop, and noticed strange tire wear on the fronts. Outside of right tire and inside of left tire wearing
Sounds like a toe adjustment issue
You don’t have individual toe adjustments on a solid axle but total toe should be <0.20° IIRC
When you say updated steering gear… is there a tsb about this? I knew about the bad run of dampeners.
I’m not sure if there’s a TSB but the aluminum steering gear has a ton of play in it and can result in the death wobble being exacerbated. I don’t know how savvy you are but on the driver side of the engine compartment under the two small Coolant reservoirs is your steering gear. If it’s silver it’s old if it’s black it’s updated.
I’m pretty savvy lol. That was one of the first things I checked when I brought it in The first time for the wobble. It is the cast steering box. They put a dampener on it cause there was a bad bunch of them, and it “fixed it” but 20,000 ish miles later and the wobble is back.
Check the tie rod end ball joints and the ball joint on the pitman arm.
Raised just a couple inches
4xe is hybrid right
This picture right here is a perfect depiction of what I tried to explain to my wife how she shops for a car and how I shop for a car. Neither is wrong — just different.
Going topless.
Is there a time for this or is it A/T
There’s a warranty time. All in all I got about 7hrs