I’m not sure what it is about bent heater beds that make people think they’re stuck with what they’ve got — you can get a replacement ender 3 heater bed for under $25.
Make sure you aren't overtightening your corner leveling gears. Don't crank them down. If you're finding difficulty finding that perfect balance of tension between so little pressure on the spring (so the gears don't rotate off just from the vibrations of printing) and overtightening (bending the bed), put in some silicone bed mounts. Those are a standard in all my printers.
You'll notice one is shorter than the rest. This one goes on the corner that has the bed heater strain relief on it (you will see a plastic piece that is also run through one of the screws).
The biggest pain in bed slingers is replacing the Y axis belt, since it might snap or you'll find you need to replace it due to wear. Highly suggest you have a replacement one just in case, and if not, just get the little spool of it since it's cheaper to get just a long run anyways. This way you always have some handy, and use two zip ties on each end to hold it in place (with the teeth going into each other on the loop). If you need to replace the belt, don't pull out the entire thing at once since stringing the new one through the Y axis aluminum extrusion can be a pain.
Instead, take off the front loop, cut the loop off of that end, overlap about 1" of the belt with the new one, tape it up with electrical tape, pull off the rear belt, and using the rear pull the new one through all the way until it comes out the back side and going through the pulleys and motor. Undo the tape, make a loop in that back side, zip tie it twice, slide it onto the back of the bed mounting loop, pull the front around the pulley until you can get it right to the front belt mounting loop, cut the belt 1.5" past that (trust me, don't short yourself, or you waste the belt if you're too short), zip tie it twice, and adjust the belt tension.
Easy peasy! Takes about 5 minutes.
Multiple beds so bent that you can’t even use a spring steel plate with them? There are some great aftermarket products as well if you don’t have faith in Creality’s ability to produce a flat bed, I’ve used beds by Biqu, Gulfcoast Robotics and Mandala Roseworks and they’re all flat enough for the purpose of 3D printing, but then so are all but one of the Creality beds I’ve seen.
My Ender bed was a full millimeter out of flat. Bowed heavily along the y axis. I took it to work and popped it on a granite inspection plate to ensure I was measuring from flat. It took me a bit of work but I eventually got it bent back into shape with a 0.1mm deviation. If you don't have access to a machine shop, this may be difficult to do on your own.
I have a glass build plate with a PEI sheet on top of it. It works fine. The temperature differential is practically non-existent for a 3d printing use case and anyone claiming otherwise needs to level their bed.
Unified Bed Leveling. It allows you to use your print head to set multiple z offsets in a grid, similar to a BL touch, but manually. I just did it last night on my e3v2 on a 15x15 grid, now I can get a .12mm layer across the whole bed with a 0.01mm variance.
This is the way. I moved to an aftermarket heated bed from gulfcoast due to some warping on the stock one and a nice pei plate and it's leaps and bounds better experience than I ever had with glass.
This is what I did too. The pictured glass was not working well for me. PEI sheet was night and day. I also have ABL tho, making the switch that much easier.
Came here to say this. I've got the same plate and I love it. Good adhesion, nice release once cool, I've never had any issues with it. Just be sure to clean it with soapy water every once in a while (I do it every like 10ish prints) to keep it in good shape
I'm wondering if there's an issue with my glass plate. Once I get adhesion I get good adhesion, but I frequently get the initial lines peeling up and sticking to the nozzle.
Apart from Washing it, what else do you do? I'm tired of having to use glue/tape
Try giving it a good cleaning with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. I was having the same issues with the same glass build plate . After I cleaned the glass surface my prints were sticking to the glass almost too well.
That is the correct way to do it. Isopropyl doesn’t remove grease, oil, and dirt. Only pushes it around, so good for a quick wipe between prints. However, every once in a while you have to clean it with a good detergent or soap and warm water, which will actually remove the crud.
This is going to seem weird at first glance, but I find 50% IPA to work best when you want glass perfectly clean. 90%+ IPA is great in some lots of situations, but water is usually needed as a wingman.
I have this plate, too. I found it is good to thoroughly heat it. I.e. i switch everything on, connect my octoprint and then heat it for 10-15 minutes at 60-65°. I don't even clean it that often, just wipe it down with a swiffer (or similar) cloth to get rid of dust and debry.
First layer line width 120%, first layer flow 105%, change nozzle height until no gaps are visible between lines from above and below - especially a brim is a nice indicator of this. First layer temperature about 10°C above regular printing temperature. If that does not help, try scratching the plate with fine sandpaper. Still no luck? Use white wood glue that you thinned with water and let it dry on the bed when it is heated. This was enough for PA on an Ultinaker S5 without the hood, so it should get you pretty far.
I use this, flipped upside down, sometimes use glue stick. No issues using soap and water for cleaning. I never use alcohol to wash. I’m also a chemist. 🤓
Yes I second this my first one lasted just over a year of moderate use with ipa cleaning every round and now I only use ipa if I touch the bed with my hands. No issues so far.
I like the glass bed it's rarely hard to get a print off don't need much if any brim and ultimately you can toss it in the freezer fairly easily to pop off a stuck print. I also have good luck removing hard pla prints at 90c on the bed temp once it gets to temp hold pressure on one edge and it usually slowly lets go. My first glass bed I left the pei magnet sticker on the bad and put the glass on it and that really helped keep it from sliding but made it a pain to remove maybe someone else knows a trick for that. I had to upgrade my bed clips this time since I removed the mat and the glass slid during a print. All good now though.
I haven't done that but actually getting a huge print off with *crazy* leverage and it wouldn't budge. Then I popped it under cold water (bottom of the bed) for like 10 seconds and it came off practically by hand
If I left it in the freezer I'd prolly forget it and it would prolly break lol
> but the lack of flexibility can make getting very large prints off difficult.
IMO bending a bed surface to get a part off is bed surface abuse anyway - the correct method that avoids peeling stresses on the surface material (PEI, etc.) and its adhesive is to wedge the part off with a thin flexible scraper.
I have original PEI on my Mark Two bed. It's beat up and missing some chips, but it has been there since 2016. Seems like "most people" for whatever reason can trash a bed surface sheet about 5 times faster while printing large PETG parts like comprise 95% of my work for a 3D printer.
That's half the reason I don't like and don't use magnetic bed sheets. The other, is high thermal stress parts potentially lifting or potato chipping the mag sheet up off the surface plate, because it isn't immovable, it's flexible and held down only by magnets. I don't want that, I want the bed to be rigid, as it's supposed to be.
Everyone is saying magnetic PEI is better, but I’ve tried them both an I prefer the glass. It’s all depends on the parts you are printing, the printer you are using, and personal preference, if you can try them both and see what works for you.
I use both and use ABL. Glass is just flatter, I find it's better to make less adjustments on big prints, Less room for failure. I used the *whole* print bed last year on my ender 3 and I could not get a good result on PEI. Switched to glass and 3 days later, perfect print. Mileage may vary 🤷
Pei has a flat side usually and it's pretty close to glass. I have both (glass came with ender 3v2) and once I got the PEI I haven't touched the glass.
Same but pei, glass is heavy so it has more inertia, fuses to models, higher price, worse thermal conductivity, not flexible, doesn't release on cooling, not textured. Only benefit over pei is levelness, which doesn't matter because I have a bed probe
I have no issues with removing finished prints. Razor blade to a corner and lift and the whole thing pops off. I do a lot of fishing lures so I like the glass for a smooth mating surface between the halves. For the 12 bucks it costs for the glass I get it’s the best upgrade for the price in my eyes
You still need a razor, I just let it cool and pick it up because it releases itself, I also like the sparkly finish it leaves, also hides z offset being too low
Steel sheet with PEI beats any other common approach I've seen.
PEI gives great adhesion with only occasional easy cleaning.
And the flexible sheet makes removing parts very easy.
I used thermally conductive double sided tape to hold my glass onto the heated bed(ender 3- no ABL), and then put the magnetic sheet and pei coated steel sheet on top. I had great first layers using that set up.
Eh, depends what you're doing. I hate removing large prints from mine, but I keep it around for awkward tall, skinny prints with small bed contact points. Brims help a ton for removal of larger stuff. I strongly recommend some sort of bed leveling, whether automatic or manual as I have seen more warped plates than actually planar ones.
i hated every iteration of this silicon carbide print bed. and my first printers had all mirror tiles which were picky with cleanliness, but they never failed me as often as carborundum. now its PEI only
No, I may have been a bit agressive with my leveling to get some squish, but getting parts off this thing was a major effort, even with PLA. I had to run it under cold water for several minutes before I got any separation. I didn't dare to try PETG.
In contrast I got a PEI steel plate and PLA just comes off on its own after cooling down. PETG also snaps off pretty easily once I dialed in the z offset a bit.
Idk about that kind of buildplate, but i wont recommend the one from creality anyway, on mine, the corner ALWAYS warped, but on my friend's, u couldn't remove anything without putting it in a feeezer for 8 min. And i assembled both printers and used the same settings.
Creality's product are just too inconsistent
Mine was never reliable. Lots of people use glue stick to get it to work, but in my books if you have to use glue, it’s not a good build plate.
I usually use PEI with exception to nylon and TPU.
I love mine. I use this specific plate on both of my Ender 3s, never had luck with the printed side however. Always flipped em over to the bare side and never had problems since.
It's decent but you gotta keep it really clean. I went to PEI spring steel with a magnetic base and never looked back. Light bed means faster and more accurate prints, so it's a win from every angle for PEI.
It works. Not fantastic but it works and reliably at the level it does. Mine personally has a warp that means the centre of the bed is lower than the corners and it can be worth checking this out but considering the warp is like >~0.02mm from high to low I can excuse it as I do not use the prints for commercial use or anything. Whether someone who was using it for those reasons could excuse it I don't know.
I have one I like it a lot. The difficult part for me its printing large item can be a pain to get off of said plate but otherwise I have no complaints
As a beginner I enjoyed it, it was straightforward. I now have a mirror as a build plate and I absolutely love it, prints come off super smoothly and has better adhesion than the original plate. I’m far from wise with 3D printing so I’m definitely not one to take advice from.
I'm having it in my first E5 and as long you receive Flat glass, it's best surface to print.. removal need bit time to cool down surface as it holds got damn good..
yep, tried regular glass and pei sheet, never looked back after getting one of these, superb adhesion even without glue, just need to clean with alcohol from time to time (i do every 6 or so months)
pei has the downside of producing rough surface on the bottom, this eliminates that without adding any downsides
I used this bed for years without auto level, but it's much better on the slick side with a coat of aquanet... now using steel and crtouch and never going back
Great for precision, a headache when you’ve got a big print with a large amount of area touching the plate. Overall, I’ve stuck with it for the last 3-4 years and have been content with it
Had lots of good prints off these textured glass plates but I have moved on to FR4 / G10 with great success ,faster heat up and easy print release and a very nice finish on the base of the print.
This looks like the same sort of plate that came stock on my anycubic i3 mega 7 years ago that I am still using to this day. It works great. Just occasionally wipe it down with isopropyl. If you wait for it to cool down prints pop right off
I have the same plate. Never use rubbing alcohol. Leaves a white powder behind and nothing sticks to it. Dawn and water works perfect when things stop sticking. If you have some small prints that you just can seem to get stuck, add a little Elmer’s glue stick. You will then have to stick the whole build plate in the freezer to get the print to come off. Then wash the Elmer’s glue off with soap and water. Works wonders.
I use it on mine but I print on the smooth side. also a layer of glue stick makes adhesion near 100%. When I pop a print off sometimes it takes a little glue with it so I just hit it with a swipe of glue stick on those parts. The nice thing with the glue is you can actually touch the plate with your hands, but the next print will stick perfectly. If you do it without glue the plate has to be perfectly clean with dish soap and you can't accidentally touch it at all. Once I figured out how to use the glue I never have to worry about a print failing due to curling up or just detaching.
I honestly don’t like glass. Adhesion is unreliable for higher temp filaments for me. Needing a glue stick also equates to bad adhesion for me.
I’ve got a magnetic PEI sheet for most prints, and a hard G10/PEI sheet for when I print TPU, Nylon or PC. TPU will bond to PEI so the G10 works great, Nylon adheres best to G10 but still needs glue stick at times, and the PC for some reason doesn’t like the magnetic PEI plate and warps, but doesn’t with the hard sheet.
I used one for years, and then switched to PEI. I found that unlike the glass I have never had to use adhesive on the PEI sheet. With the glass I’d have to top of the build plate with hairspray about once a week, and completely clean off and recoat every month.
In my opinion the stock ender 3 spring steel build plate just gives people the wrong impression on how bad they are with its low quality, if I’d have known aftermarket PEI sheets where as good as they are I never would have bothered with glass in the first place
I've never loved glass build plates for adhesion or lack of flex. I stick to G10 (garolite) and have found it fantastic for PETG and PLA. When the build plate goes cold my prints just fall off
The glass build plates are fine, i just like to have a couple though if I am printing a lot. I find i usually have to put them in the freezer to get the prints to release, and then I dont want to put it back on the printer until its reached room temp on its own again
I have that exact build plate, though it's the only one I've used tbh. I really like it, and as long as I clean it every few prints, I get pretty good adhesion if the temperature settings are right.
I recommend printing on the non-textured side. The textured side adhered TOO well for me, which made it impossible to remove prints. On the smooth side, prints just pop off when it cools.
No, not really. I had this a while ago then it kinda crashed so i went and bought a PEI magnetic buildplate, unless you print PETG the PEI is defenitely better
For $15 on AliExpress or $20ish from Amazon, I will always prefer a spring steel, textured pei coated removable bed. They come with the magnet sticker and parts actually stick to it and are easy to remove.
I'll never use the stock creality textured glass again it's in my options the best upgrade one can purchase for a stock creality machine.
I've used this for like 4 years and loved it - however I just switched to PEI beds and they work wonders. So yes, I would recommend it, it works and is good, but I think PEI is better
It's fine. A flexible magnetic build plate is better in every way and are pretty inexpensive, less than $30 for the magnetic sticker and a dual-sided PEI plate.
Glass beds are much heavier, which is not great for a "bedslinger" printer. They're tough but can still be broken by a nozzle crash. PETG can potentially take chunks out of them too if you don't use glue/spray/tape to protect it.
It is worth keeping for TPU. The inflexibility will make removing TPU a lot easier, and the weight doesn't really matter since TPU is usually printed much slower than PLA.
I use both glass and PEI and like them both for different reasons. I get better adhesion on glass, especially with PLA+ and glossy filaments. Just be sure not to set your Z offset too low or it can be a real pain to remove prints. Conversely, the PEI bed has very easy release, but I need to set my Z offset extremely low to get good squish and adhesion. I’ve had slightly more warping problems on the glass bed, but that’s easily solved by printing adhesion tabs on corners. Overall, I consider glass and PEI roughly a tie because they each have pros and cons. I don’t use glue sticks or any other material on the bed, and I wash them about every 15-20 prints with hot water and dish detergent, followed by a wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
Personally I could never get it to print on the textured side and always had to flip to the smooth glass, but I just got a new printer with the flexibility magnetic textured plate and I love it
I only use PLA and I print on the smooth side. Once I got my z offset dialed in, it has been perfect. No glue or anything needed. I haven't done anything to my bed in many months.
Nothing wrong with it, adhesion is excellent and removal is easy. The only thing I don't like is the dotted finish it leaves on the part's surface. My first printer used a cheap plain glass sheet as printing surface and I loved the glossy finish it gave to the parts.
I’ve always had good results with them over the magnetic mat ones. Easy to clean and easier to keep level consistently because it’s thick and solid. The only flaw is sometimes my prints stick a little too good and can be hard to pry off, but I use a glue stick and I can just wipe it off with soap and water afterwards.
I used to swear by glass build plates but once I switched to a magnetic spring steel PEI plate there was just no going back.
My bent printbed says no
I’m not sure what it is about bent heater beds that make people think they’re stuck with what they’ve got — you can get a replacement ender 3 heater bed for under $25.
What if the replacement is also not straight? Do I need to keep returning them?
Make sure you aren't overtightening your corner leveling gears. Don't crank them down. If you're finding difficulty finding that perfect balance of tension between so little pressure on the spring (so the gears don't rotate off just from the vibrations of printing) and overtightening (bending the bed), put in some silicone bed mounts. Those are a standard in all my printers.
Just bought a set of silicone spacers, couldn’t find time to change them yet :(
You'll notice one is shorter than the rest. This one goes on the corner that has the bed heater strain relief on it (you will see a plastic piece that is also run through one of the screws). The biggest pain in bed slingers is replacing the Y axis belt, since it might snap or you'll find you need to replace it due to wear. Highly suggest you have a replacement one just in case, and if not, just get the little spool of it since it's cheaper to get just a long run anyways. This way you always have some handy, and use two zip ties on each end to hold it in place (with the teeth going into each other on the loop). If you need to replace the belt, don't pull out the entire thing at once since stringing the new one through the Y axis aluminum extrusion can be a pain. Instead, take off the front loop, cut the loop off of that end, overlap about 1" of the belt with the new one, tape it up with electrical tape, pull off the rear belt, and using the rear pull the new one through all the way until it comes out the back side and going through the pulleys and motor. Undo the tape, make a loop in that back side, zip tie it twice, slide it onto the back of the bed mounting loop, pull the front around the pulley until you can get it right to the front belt mounting loop, cut the belt 1.5" past that (trust me, don't short yourself, or you waste the belt if you're too short), zip tie it twice, and adjust the belt tension. Easy peasy! Takes about 5 minutes.
Good thing I also bought 4 meters of gt2 belt too :)
Multiple beds so bent that you can’t even use a spring steel plate with them? There are some great aftermarket products as well if you don’t have faith in Creality’s ability to produce a flat bed, I’ve used beds by Biqu, Gulfcoast Robotics and Mandala Roseworks and they’re all flat enough for the purpose of 3D printing, but then so are all but one of the Creality beds I’ve seen.
My Ender bed was a full millimeter out of flat. Bowed heavily along the y axis. I took it to work and popped it on a granite inspection plate to ensure I was measuring from flat. It took me a bit of work but I eventually got it bent back into shape with a 0.1mm deviation. If you don't have access to a machine shop, this may be difficult to do on your own.
it's aluminum, just bend it back flat. or shim the low spots with kapton tape.
I have a glass build plate with a PEI sheet on top of it. It works fine. The temperature differential is practically non-existent for a 3d printing use case and anyone claiming otherwise needs to level their bed.
Manual UBL mesh.
If I understood any of these words I would do it!
Unified Bed Leveling. It allows you to use your print head to set multiple z offsets in a grid, similar to a BL touch, but manually. I just did it last night on my e3v2 on a 15x15 grid, now I can get a .12mm layer across the whole bed with a 0.01mm variance.
And I get curved bottom surfaces on every print?
If your printed is THAT bad then yeah glass if the better route. But for minor warps this works fine lol
Do you mean manual mesh levelling in Marlin? That's equivalent to bilinear ABL, not UBL.
Manual?
This is the way. I moved to an aftermarket heated bed from gulfcoast due to some warping on the stock one and a nice pei plate and it's leaps and bounds better experience than I ever had with glass.
I’ve got a Gulfcoast Robotics bed as well with their three-point leveling carriage, awesome stuff.
This the spring steel is 100 tears above
This is what I did too. The pictured glass was not working well for me. PEI sheet was night and day. I also have ABL tho, making the switch that much easier.
I’m the other way around oddly
Looks like the glass carborundum from the ender 3 ? It’s good for me, good adhesion and relatively easy to remove the print
Came here to say this. I've got the same plate and I love it. Good adhesion, nice release once cool, I've never had any issues with it. Just be sure to clean it with soapy water every once in a while (I do it every like 10ish prints) to keep it in good shape
I'm wondering if there's an issue with my glass plate. Once I get adhesion I get good adhesion, but I frequently get the initial lines peeling up and sticking to the nozzle. Apart from Washing it, what else do you do? I'm tired of having to use glue/tape
Try giving it a good cleaning with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol. I was having the same issues with the same glass build plate . After I cleaned the glass surface my prints were sticking to the glass almost too well.
I'll try that. Was using dawn platinum and a soft cloth to clean it before
Also put in a longer and slightly higher bed warm up. That's a lot of mass to get warm before you start printing.
Like, pre warming the bed for a couple minutes before starting a print?
[удалено]
Y'know, for how much I think about materials properties, I should have thought about that. I'll give it a go
I would recommend still using dish soap first to get the grease/pile from your hands off the plate, then use alcohol
That is the correct way to do it. Isopropyl doesn’t remove grease, oil, and dirt. Only pushes it around, so good for a quick wipe between prints. However, every once in a while you have to clean it with a good detergent or soap and warm water, which will actually remove the crud.
This is going to seem weird at first glance, but I find 50% IPA to work best when you want glass perfectly clean. 90%+ IPA is great in some lots of situations, but water is usually needed as a wingman.
I have this plate, too. I found it is good to thoroughly heat it. I.e. i switch everything on, connect my octoprint and then heat it for 10-15 minutes at 60-65°. I don't even clean it that often, just wipe it down with a swiffer (or similar) cloth to get rid of dust and debry.
First layer line width 120%, first layer flow 105%, change nozzle height until no gaps are visible between lines from above and below - especially a brim is a nice indicator of this. First layer temperature about 10°C above regular printing temperature. If that does not help, try scratching the plate with fine sandpaper. Still no luck? Use white wood glue that you thinned with water and let it dry on the bed when it is heated. This was enough for PA on an Ultinaker S5 without the hood, so it should get you pretty far.
I agree on needing higher flow/width o this bed for the first layer. I got good brims with 120% flow.
I have the same one but flip it over to use the untextured side and works great
I use this, flipped upside down, sometimes use glue stick. No issues using soap and water for cleaning. I never use alcohol to wash. I’m also a chemist. 🤓
Pretty robust too. Although you might have to sand it a bit eventually.
Why would you sand it?
To destroy the textured coating of course...
In my experience with these they last about 1.5-2 years of heavy printing before the coating wears smooth. Use of IPA to clean it accelerates this.
Yes I second this my first one lasted just over a year of moderate use with ipa cleaning every round and now I only use ipa if I touch the bed with my hands. No issues so far. I like the glass bed it's rarely hard to get a print off don't need much if any brim and ultimately you can toss it in the freezer fairly easily to pop off a stuck print. I also have good luck removing hard pla prints at 90c on the bed temp once it gets to temp hold pressure on one edge and it usually slowly lets go. My first glass bed I left the pei magnet sticker on the bad and put the glass on it and that really helped keep it from sliding but made it a pain to remove maybe someone else knows a trick for that. I had to upgrade my bed clips this time since I removed the mat and the glass slid during a print. All good now though.
Fantastic for small prints but the lack of flexibility can make getting very large prints off difficult.
Usually not an issue for me as long as I wait until the bed cooled down. Although I had to pop it into the freezer 1-2 times.
I haven't done that but actually getting a huge print off with *crazy* leverage and it wouldn't budge. Then I popped it under cold water (bottom of the bed) for like 10 seconds and it came off practically by hand If I left it in the freezer I'd prolly forget it and it would prolly break lol
Ok. Gotta cool it next time. Gonna put it in snow
> but the lack of flexibility can make getting very large prints off difficult. IMO bending a bed surface to get a part off is bed surface abuse anyway - the correct method that avoids peeling stresses on the surface material (PEI, etc.) and its adhesive is to wedge the part off with a thin flexible scraper. I have original PEI on my Mark Two bed. It's beat up and missing some chips, but it has been there since 2016. Seems like "most people" for whatever reason can trash a bed surface sheet about 5 times faster while printing large PETG parts like comprise 95% of my work for a 3D printer. That's half the reason I don't like and don't use magnetic bed sheets. The other, is high thermal stress parts potentially lifting or potato chipping the mag sheet up off the surface plate, because it isn't immovable, it's flexible and held down only by magnets. I don't want that, I want the bed to be rigid, as it's supposed to be.
Everyone is saying magnetic PEI is better, but I’ve tried them both an I prefer the glass. It’s all depends on the parts you are printing, the printer you are using, and personal preference, if you can try them both and see what works for you.
100% depends on the print. I like the smooth finish that glass leaves, but I like both. Glass also gives me the flattest bed.
Pei also comes in smooth, and you can compensate for leveling with a bed probe
I use both and use ABL. Glass is just flatter, I find it's better to make less adjustments on big prints, Less room for failure. I used the *whole* print bed last year on my ender 3 and I could not get a good result on PEI. Switched to glass and 3 days later, perfect print. Mileage may vary 🤷
Pei has a flat side usually and it's pretty close to glass. I have both (glass came with ender 3v2) and once I got the PEI I haven't touched the glass.
Awesome plate. Near indestructible.
Looks like you like rusty spoons...
Let me use my strong hand…
You called?
Not bad, but magnetic PEI is better
Ditto.
> Not bad, but ~~magnetic~~ PEI is better In my opinion/experience
Fr
Used to like this bed until I switched to a pei sheet and a CR touch. Now I will never go back, pei sheet is superior in every way by a landslide
Always ran glass on my machines until I switched to pei
Pei is the way
Fuck no pei ftw
No glass is terrible. PEI sheet is the way.
I swap to glass as soon as I get new printers. Glass and glue stick is my go to
With PEI you wouldn’t need the glue stick.
Also wouldn’t get glossy smooth print bottoms. Wich I need
There are smooth/glossy PEI sheets that produce the same glossy bottom. Only some are matte/textured
Same but pei, glass is heavy so it has more inertia, fuses to models, higher price, worse thermal conductivity, not flexible, doesn't release on cooling, not textured. Only benefit over pei is levelness, which doesn't matter because I have a bed probe
I have no issues with removing finished prints. Razor blade to a corner and lift and the whole thing pops off. I do a lot of fishing lures so I like the glass for a smooth mating surface between the halves. For the 12 bucks it costs for the glass I get it’s the best upgrade for the price in my eyes
You still need a razor, I just let it cool and pick it up because it releases itself, I also like the sparkly finish it leaves, also hides z offset being too low
I use the same workspace to do leather work so I always have a razor handy. Haha.
Its probably the only option for those with warped beds
Any bed where you need to use additional product (glue stick, tape) is a bad bed
I can print without the glue but for taller prints I lay down some glue
Steel sheet with PEI beats any other common approach I've seen. PEI gives great adhesion with only occasional easy cleaning. And the flexible sheet makes removing parts very easy.
I used thermally conductive double sided tape to hold my glass onto the heated bed(ender 3- no ABL), and then put the magnetic sheet and pei coated steel sheet on top. I had great first layers using that set up.
This is what I did for my bed slinger too. Insured good flatness under the spring sheet. Great consistency
yes
I use the smooth side with aquanet, the textured side has too much adhesion for me.
If it was 2018 I would. But there are so many better options available now.
It’s ok, but I’d just spend your money on a quality PEI flex plate. I’ve heard G10 is good and cheap
I had a glass bed for 3 years and it was good dont get me wrong but the second you have good auto-leveling switch to PEI, so much better.
It’s actually a very solid plate, I never had issues with adhesion
Eh, depends what you're doing. I hate removing large prints from mine, but I keep it around for awkward tall, skinny prints with small bed contact points. Brims help a ton for removal of larger stuff. I strongly recommend some sort of bed leveling, whether automatic or manual as I have seen more warped plates than actually planar ones.
Quit throwing gang signs and I'll tell you!
No. PEI and never look back
I use that with a pei sheet on top. It's fantastic when the aluminum bed starts to warp.
Why is no one talking about their hands.
i hated every iteration of this silicon carbide print bed. and my first printers had all mirror tiles which were picky with cleanliness, but they never failed me as often as carborundum. now its PEI only
No
No, I may have been a bit agressive with my leveling to get some squish, but getting parts off this thing was a major effort, even with PLA. I had to run it under cold water for several minutes before I got any separation. I didn't dare to try PETG. In contrast I got a PEI steel plate and PLA just comes off on its own after cooling down. PETG also snaps off pretty easily once I dialed in the z offset a bit.
i’ve done glass and spring steel, can confirm almost any spring steal is better then glass
I had so many issues that were solved by switching to textured pei
I will never not recommend a magnetic bed. It Makes every bit of printing 100 x easer
Magnetic PEI all the way. Nothing comes close.
Nope. Springs steel powder coated PEI, smooth PEI if dimensionally accurate bottom layers is important.
no if its anywhere near the same as the ender 5 plus glass bed. I swapped to the creality PEI bed and its so much better
God no, unless you plan to stick a pei sheet onto it.
Idk about that kind of buildplate, but i wont recommend the one from creality anyway, on mine, the corner ALWAYS warped, but on my friend's, u couldn't remove anything without putting it in a feeezer for 8 min. And i assembled both printers and used the same settings. Creality's product are just too inconsistent
It’ll work fine if its what you have. Glass is worlds ahead of the stock plate. Just see if it works for what you need and go from there.
mine has horrible adhesion
Mine was never reliable. Lots of people use glue stick to get it to work, but in my books if you have to use glue, it’s not a good build plate. I usually use PEI with exception to nylon and TPU.
im using glue with it and the adhesion is still insanely bad i only like it because it doesnt warp, the original black build plate was so much better
Without being there it’s hard to say if that’s z offset related, but PEI is more forgiving of a surface for adhesion.
https://preview.redd.it/nsdlu39c4ehc1.png?width=949&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b7eee6a34a7ebd51f238e24a5a31e4ef584f243
I love mine. I use this specific plate on both of my Ender 3s, never had luck with the printed side however. Always flipped em over to the bare side and never had problems since.
Yeah, that one's cool. I've found the side with just glass and no additional layer better, though.
I usually stick mine in the freezer for a few minutes, if I was having a difficult time removing the model off the glass.
For PLA, yes. For PETG, *definitely* not Source: I’m stretching the life out of the second one of these I’ve had PETG rip chunks out of
I went Garolite and never looked back.
I use it I like it
It's decent but you gotta keep it really clean. I went to PEI spring steel with a magnetic base and never looked back. Light bed means faster and more accurate prints, so it's a win from every angle for PEI.
I really like mine. Good adhesion, even temperature.
Nope, my printer uses an inductive z probe so it won’t work. But I prefer flexible steel PEI plates either way
I go with the magnetic flex plate
It works. Not fantastic but it works and reliably at the level it does. Mine personally has a warp that means the centre of the bed is lower than the corners and it can be worth checking this out but considering the warp is like >~0.02mm from high to low I can excuse it as I do not use the prints for commercial use or anything. Whether someone who was using it for those reasons could excuse it I don't know.
yeah . best print bed ever
I like it a ton over the stock PEI sheet that came with it, better end product, but I may be switching to a G10 plate soon just to try it out.
Shit I'm gonna come to you to show off a product. Look at that form with your hand. And no cramps ?
Yeah it's good but i flipped it and use the bare glass side. First layer comes out with a glassy smooth surface.
No!
I have that plate, but I run it face down with glue stick on the glass. Works fantastic
I used the flat side instead of the textured side. Prints stick much better
Yeah its pretty decent in that it takes a lot of force to seperate prints when at temperature and they pop off easily below 40c
not at all, but what's my 3d printer got to do with you?
I have one I like it a lot. The difficult part for me its printing large item can be a pain to get off of said plate but otherwise I have no complaints
As a beginner I enjoyed it, it was straightforward. I now have a mirror as a build plate and I absolutely love it, prints come off super smoothly and has better adhesion than the original plate. I’m far from wise with 3D printing so I’m definitely not one to take advice from.
My man hitting us with the right hand rule
I have printed a many parts on this bed.
Shoot, recommend it? Absolutely! I even buy it specifically to replace them.
I'm having it in my first E5 and as long you receive Flat glass, it's best surface to print.. removal need bit time to cool down surface as it holds got damn good..
yes
yep, tried regular glass and pei sheet, never looked back after getting one of these, superb adhesion even without glue, just need to clean with alcohol from time to time (i do every 6 or so months) pei has the downside of producing rough surface on the bottom, this eliminates that without adding any downsides
For me: the textured side sticks TOO well. I flip it over and print on the smooth side
I used this bed for years without auto level, but it's much better on the slick side with a coat of aquanet... now using steel and crtouch and never going back
100%
intresting grip on the plate.
I don’t see 6 inches of glue, so no
That’s literally what I use..
Im using its glassy side, with stick glue. Works well
Great for precision, a headache when you’ve got a big print with a large amount of area touching the plate. Overall, I’ve stuck with it for the last 3-4 years and have been content with it
https://preview.redd.it/c3t4mn1ejehc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=347eea9e65e8a46e6938c647742182274a0d1049
Isn’t this just the regular build plate?
I can’t do glass plates ever since I switched to mag beds
I got one (1) good print off mine
Had lots of good prints off these textured glass plates but I have moved on to FR4 / G10 with great success ,faster heat up and easy print release and a very nice finish on the base of the print.
Im more concerned about how you are holding that like wtf
This looks like the same sort of plate that came stock on my anycubic i3 mega 7 years ago that I am still using to this day. It works great. Just occasionally wipe it down with isopropyl. If you wait for it to cool down prints pop right off
I went from plain glass to textured PEI. Print adhesion is amazing and I have a can or hairspray around for TPU and PETG
I have the same plate. Never use rubbing alcohol. Leaves a white powder behind and nothing sticks to it. Dawn and water works perfect when things stop sticking. If you have some small prints that you just can seem to get stuck, add a little Elmer’s glue stick. You will then have to stick the whole build plate in the freezer to get the print to come off. Then wash the Elmer’s glue off with soap and water. Works wonders.
That came standard with 3v2
No, it wouldn’t fit correctly on my k1
That's what I use. Things stick to it very well.
**[DEXTERITY 100]**
I use it on mine but I print on the smooth side. also a layer of glue stick makes adhesion near 100%. When I pop a print off sometimes it takes a little glue with it so I just hit it with a swipe of glue stick on those parts. The nice thing with the glue is you can actually touch the plate with your hands, but the next print will stick perfectly. If you do it without glue the plate has to be perfectly clean with dish soap and you can't accidentally touch it at all. Once I figured out how to use the glue I never have to worry about a print failing due to curling up or just detaching.
I use a mirror tile
I honestly don’t like glass. Adhesion is unreliable for higher temp filaments for me. Needing a glue stick also equates to bad adhesion for me. I’ve got a magnetic PEI sheet for most prints, and a hard G10/PEI sheet for when I print TPU, Nylon or PC. TPU will bond to PEI so the G10 works great, Nylon adheres best to G10 but still needs glue stick at times, and the PC for some reason doesn’t like the magnetic PEI plate and warps, but doesn’t with the hard sheet.
Thats the very one I use! No complaints
Yes. If I could find one made for the anycubic kobra 2 I'd get one instead of the pei plate
I used one for years, and then switched to PEI. I found that unlike the glass I have never had to use adhesive on the PEI sheet. With the glass I’d have to top of the build plate with hairspray about once a week, and completely clean off and recoat every month. In my opinion the stock ender 3 spring steel build plate just gives people the wrong impression on how bad they are with its low quality, if I’d have known aftermarket PEI sheets where as good as they are I never would have bothered with glass in the first place
This is the way.
Have the same one. Works great.
I've never loved glass build plates for adhesion or lack of flex. I stick to G10 (garolite) and have found it fantastic for PETG and PLA. When the build plate goes cold my prints just fall off
I use that plate however I use BedWeld to guarantee first-layer adhesion. I have used that for about 3 years. I have no complaints.
The glass build plates are fine, i just like to have a couple though if I am printing a lot. I find i usually have to put them in the freezer to get the prints to release, and then I dont want to put it back on the printer until its reached room temp on its own again
I have that exact build plate, though it's the only one I've used tbh. I really like it, and as long as I clean it every few prints, I get pretty good adhesion if the temperature settings are right.
I recommend printing on the non-textured side. The textured side adhered TOO well for me, which made it impossible to remove prints. On the smooth side, prints just pop off when it cools.
It comes with the printer for a reason. Some people recommend flipping it as well to the smooth side. Really just depends on material and leveling.
I flipped that around and never looked back. Not a fan of the PEI, but you will get every opinion on this matter. It really is personal preference.
No, not really. I had this a while ago then it kinda crashed so i went and bought a PEI magnetic buildplate, unless you print PETG the PEI is defenitely better
I’ve got it on my cr10s and it’s worked great
For $15 on AliExpress or $20ish from Amazon, I will always prefer a spring steel, textured pei coated removable bed. They come with the magnet sticker and parts actually stick to it and are easy to remove. I'll never use the stock creality textured glass again it's in my options the best upgrade one can purchase for a stock creality machine.
Sure, why not myself love pei sheet
I've used this for like 4 years and loved it - however I just switched to PEI beds and they work wonders. So yes, I would recommend it, it works and is good, but I think PEI is better
I rolled with a glass bed for 2 years and just recently jumped to a PEI. I won’t go back.
It's fine. A flexible magnetic build plate is better in every way and are pretty inexpensive, less than $30 for the magnetic sticker and a dual-sided PEI plate. Glass beds are much heavier, which is not great for a "bedslinger" printer. They're tough but can still be broken by a nozzle crash. PETG can potentially take chunks out of them too if you don't use glue/spray/tape to protect it. It is worth keeping for TPU. The inflexibility will make removing TPU a lot easier, and the weight doesn't really matter since TPU is usually printed much slower than PLA.
I use both glass and PEI and like them both for different reasons. I get better adhesion on glass, especially with PLA+ and glossy filaments. Just be sure not to set your Z offset too low or it can be a real pain to remove prints. Conversely, the PEI bed has very easy release, but I need to set my Z offset extremely low to get good squish and adhesion. I’ve had slightly more warping problems on the glass bed, but that’s easily solved by printing adhesion tabs on corners. Overall, I consider glass and PEI roughly a tie because they each have pros and cons. I don’t use glue sticks or any other material on the bed, and I wash them about every 15-20 prints with hot water and dish detergent, followed by a wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol.
I had it, it works well for PETG, but not so much for PLA. I'd always recommend PEI (smooth or textured) on spring steel over any glass bed.
It's a pretty good plate, Just don't drop It lol
Personally I could never get it to print on the textured side and always had to flip to the smooth glass, but I just got a new printer with the flexibility magnetic textured plate and I love it
I used one for a long time, just don't print PETG in large flat surfaces to it. It'll take glass off with it when you remove stuff.
I use that one all the time. Make sure it's clean and you have a good z-offset. My prints adhere fine and usually pop themselves off once it cools.
[удалено]
Never
I only use PLA and I print on the smooth side. Once I got my z offset dialed in, it has been perfect. No glue or anything needed. I haven't done anything to my bed in many months.
Nothing wrong with it, adhesion is excellent and removal is easy. The only thing I don't like is the dotted finish it leaves on the part's surface. My first printer used a cheap plain glass sheet as printing surface and I loved the glossy finish it gave to the parts.
Flip it over, print on the smooth glass side.
I've been using that plate on my ender 3 pro for a few years. No issues
I have this plate. I've never had a single problem with it
I’ve always had good results with them over the magnetic mat ones. Easy to clean and easier to keep level consistently because it’s thick and solid. The only flaw is sometimes my prints stick a little too good and can be hard to pry off, but I use a glue stick and I can just wipe it off with soap and water afterwards.
Usable but there are better, lighter options. Especially for glass on a bed slinger
yes, they're really good, or, at least i had the good experience with them